i^)h^^t^tay  /S^^^^. 


jS. 


GIt^L'(i)   dOUt^NSy 


THROUGH 


£Ul^Op£,  £:©ypT 


THE  HOLY  LAND. 


♦>9<* 


i'rinted  for  the  arthor. 

Publishing  House  of  the  M.  E  Church,  South. 

J,  D.  Barbee,  Agent,  Nashville,  Tenn. 


Copypighted,   1889, 
ly  lienomoy  Groen. 


TO 
My  dear  father  and  Mother, 

WHO  so   KINDLY   GAVE  ME  THE  TRIP, 

THIS  VOLUME  IS 

AFFECTIONATELY   DEDICATED. 


(3) 


INTRODUCTION. 


My  niet'e,  Lenamay  Gi-een,  has  written  a  book  of  trav- 
els that  will  be  read.  A  book  just  like  it  has  never  been 
published  before.  A  girl  of  eighteen  kept  a  journal  of 
her  tour  through  Europe,  Egypt,  and  the  Holy  Land, 
without  a  dream  of  authorship.  Some  of  her  home  let- 
ters took  air  through  the  newspapers,  and  now  every- 
body wants  the  journal  printed.  Relatives,  friends, 
publishers,  and  the  daily  press  have  all  urged  the  print- 
ing of  this  volume.  Here  it  is,  beautifully  illustrated 
and  handsomely  bound.  INIiss  Green  was  with  me 
abroad  for  nearly  twelve  months.  After  her  graduation 
at  the  Columbia  Athen^um  she  had  read  up  for  the  trip, 
and  entered  upon  it  with  a  glow  of  enthusiasm.  She 
was  an  unflagging  traveler  and  sight-seer,  and  never 
failed  to  record  her  impressions.  They  were  the  im- 
pressions of  an  intelligent  and  thouglitful  girl,  as  you 
will  plainly  perceive  by  reading  this  book.  INIiss  Green 
accompanied  my  family  everywhere,  and  while  I  was 
looking  at  objects  with  a  pair  of  old  eyes  she  kept  a 
pair  of  young  eyes  very  wide  open.  Read  this  hand- 
some volume,  and  see  if  she  did  not !  Miss  Green  is  the 
daughter  of  Rev.  William  M.  Green,  D.D. 

R.  A.  Young. 
(5) 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 


Introduction *^ 

CHAPrEl*  I. 

Nashville  to  New  York— The  Voyage 11 

Chapter  II. 
From  Queenstown  to  Killarney 19 

Chapter  III. 
Limerick— Dublin— Portrush—GlasgOAv 27 

Chapter  IV. 
Trosachs— Stirling— Edinburgh 35 

Chapter  V. 

London ^^ 

Chapter  VI. 

From  London  to  Brighton 56 

Chapter  VII. 

Paris ' ^^ 

Chapter  VIII. 
Marseilles — Mediterranean  Sea 82 

Chapter  IX. 
Alexandria 90 

Chapter  X. 
Cairo — Pyramids 97 

Chapter  XL 

Heliopolis — Cairo 109 

(7) 


8  Cot)fents. 

Chapter  XII.  iA,iK 

Steamer  "  Kaliainanior" — Jaffa — Ji'rusah'iu 1  Hi 

ClIAITKU  XIII. 
Jericho — Dea<l  Sra — River  Jordan 130 

Chaitkr  XIV. 
Jenisaleni— Betlilehein— Jalla 139 

Chaiter  XV. 
Steamer  "Ceres" — Bey  root — Smyrna 151 

Chaitek  XVI. 
Constantinoi)le — Athens 160 

Chapter  XVII. 
Corfu — Brindisi — Naples — Pomi)eii 174 

Chapter  XVIII. 
Rome — Christmas 1 88 

Chai'ter  XIX. 
Florence 206 

Chai^ter  XX. 
Pisa— Genoa— Milan 215 

Chapter  XXI. 
Venice 225 

Chapter  XXII. 
Vienna— Prague 239 

Chapter  XXIII. 
Dresden— Leipzig— Witten])erg 249 

Chapter  XXIV. 
Berlin 256 

Chapter  XXV. 
Potsdam— TIanil)nrg 2(56 

Chapter  XXVI. 
Copenhagen— Hanover 276 


Contents.  9 

Chapter  XXVII.  page 

Rotterdam— The  Hague— Del  fthaven 286 

Chapter  XXVIII. 
Amsterdam— Haarlem— Leyden 295 

Chapter  XXIX. 

Antwerp — Brussels — Cologne 302 

Chapter  XXX. 

Iliver  Rhine— Coblentz—^Iayence 311 

Chapter  XXXI. 

Wiesbaden— Frankfort— Worms 318 

Chapter  XXXII. 

Heidelberg — Baden-Baden — Strasburg 324 

Chapter  XXXIII. 

Basle — Lucerne — Berne 330 

Chapter  XXXIV. 
Interlachen — Lausanne — Geneva 338 

Chaptrr  XXXA"". 
Paris  Again 348 

Chapter  XXXVL 
I^ndon 358 

Chapter  XXXYII. 
Windsor— Eton— Stoke-Pogis— Oxford 367 

Chapter  XXXVIII. 
Leamington— Ken il worth —Stratford 375 

Chapter  XXXIX. 
Chester — Liverpool 383 

Chapter  XL. 
The  Voyage  Home 390 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

Frontispiece. 

E<liiiluir«;li  Castle 38 

Tomb  of  Naix>k'on 74 

Sceiif  on  tJu'  Nik- 102 

Tlie  Sphinx 105 

One  of  Our  Donkeys 112 

JerasakMH 122 

Lei^ei-s  OutsitUi  Jerusak'Ui 124 

Api)roa('liing  the  Mof^qne  of  Omar 126 

Ford  of  the  Jordan 136 

Betldehem 138 

Jews'  Waihng-place 145 

A  Honse-top  in  the  Eai^t 147 

Conptantinoj)!? 162 

The  Acroi)olis 168 

Pompeii   178 

The  Tolisenm 194 

Ix'anint?  Tower  at  Pi^a 216 

Venice 226 

Bridge  of  Siglis 228 

Scene  in  Venice 232 

Dutch  Wind-mill 287 

Bear-pit 336 

Swiss  View 342 

St.  Paul'H  Cathedral 364 

Windsor  Castle 3()8 

Warwick  Castle 376 

Shakespeare's  Birthplace 378 

(10) 


R  GIRVS  JOURNEY. 

<B]>\f\f>T^^  I. 

NASHVILLE  TO  NEW  YORK— THE  VOYAGE. 

WEKE  you  ever  playfully  told,  "  Go  to  Jer- 
icho?" and  did  you  ever  think  seriously 
of  the  long  journey  over  land  and  sea  to  that 
strange  old  city  that  wcrs  and  is  not?  Now 
I  propose  to  tell  how  I,  a  girl  of  eighteen, 
fresh  from  school,  eager  for  the  novelty  and 
excitement  of  travel,  sailed  awaj^,  away,  into 
the  far-off  Orient,  terminating  my  journey  at 
the  Dead  Sea  and  the  site  of  ancient  Jericho. 
I  was  so  fortunate  as  to  join  a  party  which 
consisted  of  Pr.  K.  A.  Young  and  wife  and 
their  daughters,  Mary  Green  and  Susie  Hunt- 
er; to  be  augmented  later  by  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Charles  Eastman,  of  Nashville,  Tenn.  I  shall 
not  weary  you  with  a  description  of  our  part- 
ing with  the  host  of  friends  gathered  one  sul- 

(11) 


12  A  Girl  '.s  Jonnu'ij, 

try  afternoon  in  August  at  the  Union  Depot  in 
Nashville  to  bid  us  good-by.  If  such  a  thing 
had  been  possible,  enough  good  wishes  fol- 
lowed us  to  float  our  ship,  the  "  Umbria."  The 
hist  farewell  being  spoken,  our  train  steamed 
out  into  the  night,  and  we  were  fairly  on  our 
way,  leaving  home  and  fi'iends  behind.  Next 
morning  we  passed  through  Cincinnati,  and 
the  following  day  reached  Washington  City  in 
time  for  breakfast  Of  course  we  took  in  the 
sights  of  the  capital,  though  most  of  the  party 
had  visited  it  before. 

Evening  found  us — tired,  hungry,  and  dusty 
— wending  our  way  to  the  Grand  Central  Ho- 
tel, in  New  York  City.  We  were  thankful  to 
rest,  even  with  the  never-ceasing  roar  of  Broad- 
way sounding  in  our  ears. 

The  next  two  days  were  spent  in  sight-see- 
ing and  shopping  in  the  great  metropolis. 

AVe  girls  staid  up  nenrly  all  the  night  be- 
fore sailing,  puzzling  over  the  problem  of  how 
to  make  a  large  valise  bold  as  much  as  a  small 
trunk.  Perseverance  conquered,  and  we  went 
to  sleep  at  last  with  the  satisfaction  of  know- 


R6C 


Nashville  to  New  York— The  Voyage.       13 

ing  that  all  the  necessary  articles  had  been 
packed,  and  every  thing  made  ready  for  the 
voyage.  Our  trunks  had  to  go  into  the  hold 
of  the  vessel,  so  would  be  of  no  use  to  us  until 
we  landed. 

Several  friends  were  at  the  wharf  to  see  us 
off,  and  went  with  us  on  an  exploring  expedi- 
tion through  the  steamer,  from  engine-room  to 
promenade  deck.  It  was  a  wonderful  sight, 
and  we  were  highly  entertained. 

On  Saturday  afternoon,  just  before  the  vessel 
started,  the  scene  was  most  exciting.  Hun- 
dreds of  people  were  there,  shouting  and  wav- 
ing farewells — some  laughing,  others  crying, 
and  a  few  seemingly  indifferent. 

At  three  o'clock  we  moved  off,  and  getting  out 
our  glasses  enjoyed  the  splendid  view  of  the 
city  and  harbor  as  they  slowly  faded  from  sight. 

How  we  had  dreaded  the  voyage!  We  girls 
had  made  up  our  minds  to  be  seasick  in  spite 
of  the  perfect  weather  with  which  we  were 
favored.  The  ocean  was  calm  as  a  lake,  and 
everybody  staid  on  deck  from  morning  until 
time  for  retiring  at  night. 


14  A  Girl's  JoiD'Hey. 


After  breakfast  on  Sunday  Captain  McMick- 
in  read  ])i-ayL'rs  in  tlie  dining-saloon,  and  the 
rest  of  the  day  was  spent  by  the  passengers  in 
lounging  about,  dozing,  talking,  reading,  and 
occasionally  i)romenading  up  and  down  the 
decks. 

After  dinner  we  three  girls  were  taking  a 
"constitutional"  on  the  promenade  deck,  when 
the  sound  of  music  was  heard  in  the  distance. 
On  searching  around  we  discovered  that  it 
came  from  below,  and  immediately  descended 
to  the  lower  deck,  where  we  saw  a  number  of 
steerage  passengers  gathered  together  singing 
hymns.  In  the  midst  of  them,  with  a  baby  on 
her  lap,  was  Ellen  Terry,  the  great  English 
actress,  who  was  returning  from  a  pleasure- 
trip  to  America.  She  was  leading  the  songs 
with  her  clear,  sweet  soprano,  and  as  the 
familiar  tunes  rolled  out  over  the  water  we 
found  ourselves  joining  in,  and  were  benefited 
and  cheered  by  the  simple  home-music.  The 
sailors  sung  too,  many  of  them  perched  upon 
the  railing,  and  often  applauded  when  a  favor- 
ite song  was  rendered;  some  of  them  had  fine 


Nashville  to  New  York — The  Voyage.      15 

voices  and  seemed  to  enjoy  the  music  im- 
mensely, singing  lustily,  and  evidently  with 
their  whole  souls. 

After  becoming  accustomed  to  the  routine 
on  shipboard  we  found  that  a  sea- voyage  could 
be  pleasant  after  all.  Our  steamer,  the  "  Um- 
bria,"  was  elegantly  furnished,  and  had  all 
the  conveniences  desired.  There  were  five 
stories,  or  decks,  to  the  vessel — first  and  low- 
est, the  hold;  then  the  main  deck;  above  that 
the  saloon  deck,  where  the  dining-saloon  and 
our  state-rooms  were;  next,  the  upper  deck; 
and  highest  of  all,  the  promenade  deck,  where 
we  spent  the  time  during  the  day  in  our  steam- 
er chairs. 

One  of  the  young  lady  passengers  called  us 
girls  "the  nuns,"  because  we  were  always  so 
covered  and  bundled  up  in  hoods,  veils,  cloaks, 
jackets,  etc.  Though  it  was  August,  the  sea- 
breezes  were  quite  cool,  and  we  did  not  feel 
uncomfortable  under  all  our  wraps. 

One  morning  everybody  on  deck  was  looking 
rather  sleepy  and  stupid,  and  every  thing  was 
quiet  and  still  when  somebody  cried:  "A  whale! 


16  A  Girl 's  Journey. 


a  whale!"  You  should  have  seen  how  those 
shawls,  rugs,  veils,  glasses,  books,  and  cloaks 
were  dashed  aside  as  wo  rushed  excitedly  to 
the  railing  to  see  the  wonder.  Two  whales 
kindly  came  up  and  8jx)uted  for  our  amuse- 
ment, and  I  think  there  was  more  than  one 
passenger  who,  besides  being  glad  of  a  sight 
of  these  monsters  of  the  deep,  secretly  exulted 
that  here  at  last  was  an  item  for  the  journals, 
which,  on  account  of  the  tedium  of  ocean  life, 
were  becoming  rather  monotonous.  We  also 
saw  several  porpoises  and  some  sea-gulls. 

One  evening  we  had  a  concert  in  the  dining- 
hall,  given  by  the  passengers  and  sailors  for 
the  benefit  of  the  "Liverpool  Seamen's  Or- 
phanage." Henry  Irving,  the  actor,  who  was 
also  one  of  our  fellow-passengers,  served  as 
chairman,  and  Miss  Terry,  dressed  in  quite  a 
picturesque  tea-gown,  took  up  a  collection  in 
the  captain's  hat.  The  principal  features  of 
the  entertainment  were  some  mandolin  solos, 
a  song  by  one  of  the  sailors,  and  the  funniest 
music  that  I  ever  heard  on  a  bagpipe;  it  was 
so  jolly  and  ridiculous  that  the  whole  audience 


Nashville  to  New  York — The  Voijage.      17 

applauded  and  laughed  until  their  sides  ached. 
Then,  too,  Mr.  Irving  gave  us  a  very  amusing 
little  speech  and  recitation  combined. 

Our  walks  on  the  promenade  deck  were  quite 
a  rest,  and  we  managed  to  get  a  good  deal  of 
fun  out  of  them,  owing  to  the  fact  that  some- 
times the  wind  was  so  strong  it  was  difficult 
to  keep  on  our  feet,  and  several  amusing  en- 
counters resulted.  We  "nuns"  were  dashing 
frantically  along  one  day,  trying  to  "make 
time,"  when,  turning  a  corner  rather  suddenly, 
I  was  precipitated  into  the  arms  of  an  aston- 
ished youth,  who  was  so  much  amazed  at  my 
extraordinary  caper  that  he  did  not  even  in- 
quire what  was  the  matter.  Of  course  I  was 
very  much  embarrassed,  and,  after  begging  his 
pardon,  retreated  as  hastily  as  I  came.  An- 
other time  I  nearly  ran  over  the  captain,  which 
would  indeed  have  been  a  sad  catastrophe. 

One  day  Susie  and  I  went  down  to  see  the 
sailors,  who  while  off  duty  were  at  their  games. 
Two  of  them  had  their  hands  and  feet  tied  to  a 
stick,  which  was  passed  under  their  knees,  and 
each  tried  to  push  or  kick  the  other  out  of  the 
2 


18  A  Girl  '.s  Journey. 

riug.  Sometimes  they  rolled  over  and  over, 
and  when  they  got  on  their  backs,  as  they  did 
occasionally,  it  was  difficult  for  them  to  get 
righted.  They  laughed  and  sliouted  like  a  lot 
of  school-boys,  and  did  not  seem  to  l>e  the  least 
out  of  humor  with  each  other.  A  favorite  game 
with  the  passengers  was  quoits. 

Though  we  had  l)een  so  fortunate  on  oar  voy- 
age, having  almost  entirely  escaped  the  dread- 
ed seasickness,  and  though  w^e  had  been  fa- 
vored with  fine  weather,  we  were  not  grieved 
when  at  the  end  of  six  days  and  thirteen 
hours  the  time  came  to  pack  up  and  make 
ready  for  leaving  the  steamer.  The  glasses 
were  brought  out,  and  w^e  strained  our  eyes  to 
catch  a  first  glimpse  of  the  shores  of  Erin. 


©HAFT'S^  H. 

FROM  QUEENSTOWN  TO  KILLARNEY. 

AT  about  seven  o'clock  Saturday  morning 
land  was  sighted,  and  at  eleven  we  left  the 
"Umbria"  for  a  little  steam-tug,  which  con- 
veyed lis  and  our  baggage  to  the  shore  in  about 
an  hour  and  a  half.  How  grand  the  old  ship 
looked  as  she  steamed  off  into  the  ocean  again, 
all  the  passengers  and  crew  waving  and  shout- 
ing to  us  from  the  decks!  We  felt  quite  small 
and  insignificant  in  our  tiny  tug  by  the  side  of 
that  iron  monster.  From  the  vessel  the  shores 
of  Ireland  seemed  cut  up  iuto  small  squares 
and  patches  no  larger  than  one  of  our  gardens 
at  home.  These  little  plots,  we  discovered  on 
apiDroaching  nearer,  were  farms,  beautifully 
cultivated,  and  divided  from  each  other  by 
hedges  or  stone  walls,  very  few  fences  of  any 
kind  being  used.  We  should  have  known  with- 
out being  told  that  this  was  the  Emerald  Isle, 

(19) 


20  A  Gh'Vs  Journci/. 

for  it  was  (jreen,  (jreen,  everywhere;  so  restful 
and  refreshing  to  the  eyes  after  the  monotony 
of  the  ocean. 

The  lirst  person  we  met  on  shore  was  an  old 
Irishwoman  who  handed  each  of  us  a  sprig  of 
shamrock,  and  in  return  demanded  a  penny, 
which  was  very  willingly  given. 

We  had  some  fun  at  the  custom-house.  The 
officer  was  quite  a  pleasant-looking  young  fel- 
low, and,  when  we  gravely  informed  him  that 
our  valises  contained  neither  spirits  nor  tobac- 
co, told  us  that  it  was  not  necessary  to  open 
our  sachels— merely  glanced  into  the  trunks, 
and  ornamented  every  thing  with  the  useful  lit- 
tle chalk-mark;  but  we  saw  him  going  through 
one  man's  trunk,  examining  bundles  and  boxes 
very  carefully. 

AVe  went  by  rail  from  Queenstown  to  Cork, 
passing  on  the  way  the  castle  of  "Groat," 
wliich  nieu.ns  foil r  pence.  This  castle  was  built 
by  an  old  lady  who  paid  her  workmen  in  sup- 
plies; and  she  managed  so  well  that  the  build- 
ing really  cost  only  four  \wuce  in  money. 

At  the  station  in  Queenstown  we  were  con- 


From  Queenstoivn  to  Killarneij.  21 

stantly  amused  by  tlie  shrill  little  whistles  on 
the  locomotives.  They  sounded  like  toy  whis- 
tles, and  we  girls  could  but  laugh  when  w^e 
heard  them.  The  cars  also  were  much  smaller 
than  we  were  accustomed  to  at  home. 

In  our  carriage,  or  coupe,  as  they  call  the 
railway  cars,  were  an  Irish  gentleman  and  his 
two  daughters  who  lived  at  Queenstown.  We 
saw  their  residence  as  we  passed  along,  and  it 
was  quite  a  pretty  place.  They  were  very 
pleasant  people,  and  told  us  some  interesting 
things  about  the  country. 

After  changing  cars  at  Mallow  and  passing 
through  miles  of  beautiful  green  country  we 
reached  Killarney  late  in  the  afternoon,  and 
drove  out  to  the  Victoria  Royal  Hotel,  which 
is  situated  so  as  to  command  a  lovely  view  of 
the  low^er  lake.  The  turf  was  studded  with 
beds  of  gorgeous  flowers,  and  sloped  gently 
down  to  the  water's  edge. 

One  end  of  the  dining-room  was  of  glass,  re- 
vealing a  fairy-like  scene  consisting  of  the  lit- 
tle islands  of  the  lake,  and  the  purple  haze  of 
the  mountains  in  the  background. 


22  A  GirVs  Journeu. 


How  still  every  thing  was!  and  how  queer  and 
old-fashioned  the  furnishings  of  the  house! 
We  examined  our  rooms  with  a  great  deal  of 
interest.  The  beds  were  very  high  and  very 
"  fat,"  with  ruffles  around  the  bottom.  We  had 
to  climb  into  them  from  a  chair.  There  were 
old-fashioned  dressing-cases,  also  ruffled;  and 
the  queerest  of  window-shades,  chests  of  draw- 
ers, bell-ropes,  and  curtains. 

We  dressed  for  the  seven  o'clock  dinner  by 
candle-light — our  first  experience  with  this 
mode  of  illumination,  and  Susie  claimed  the 
exclusive  privilege  of  using  the  snufPers. 

I  must  describe  our  initiatory  faUc-dliote 
meal  in  Europe.  At  each  place  were  three  or 
four  glasses,  a  number  of  knives,  forks,  and 
spoons,  several  plates — two  or  three,  I  believe 
— and  a  dark-looking  roll,  or  bun,  wrapped  up 
in  a  naj)kin.  Soup  was  served  first,  then  the 
fish,  and  next  a  little  greasy  cake  with  a  small 
fish  in  the  middle  of  it;  after  that  some  kind 
of  fowl,  exactly  what  I  could  not  decide.  This 
'was  followed  by  a  course  of  ham,  potatoes, 
veal,  and  some  green  things  that  looked  like 


From  Queensfown  to  Kilhrney.  23 


(jrasshoppers,  but  which  proved  to  be  French 
beans.     For  dessert  we  had  something  on  the 
order  of   ginger-pudding,  only  it  was  bitter, 
and  some  rice  covered  with  sauce  that  looked 
and  tasted  more  like  red  ink  than  any  thing  I 
could  think  of.     I  only  tried  one  morsel,  and 
found  I  did  not  want  that.     Next,  cheese  and 
crackers;  but  as  I  did  not  recognize  what  they 
were,  or  know  how  to  get  them  out  of  the  dish, 
that  course  was  allowed  to  pass.     We  finished 
on  fruit— tiny  apples  and  plums.    I  cannot  say 
that  I  enjoyed  all  nine  courses,  but  managed 
to  exist  until  breakfast. 

The  table  extended  the  whole  length  of  the 
room,  with  pots  of  ferns  and  coleus -plants 
down  the  center.  The  silver  was  old-fashioned 
and  dumpy,  and  the  table  linen  spotless,  glos- 
sy, and  real  Irish.  Everybody  was  served  at 
once  in  a  dignified  and  stately  manner,  and  al- 
together I  do  not  know  that  I  ever  felt  quite 
so  solemn  and  subdued.  I  would  not  have 
laughed  aloud  for  any  amount,  and  thus  run 
the  risk  of  being  glared  at  by  those  august 
Irish  and  English  dames. 


24  A  Girl 's  Journey, 

After  dinner  we  found  a  London  Times  in 
the  drawing  -  room,  and  read  with  interest 
an  account  of  the  dreadful  Cliarleston  earth- 
quake, which  had  occurred  while  we  were  on 
the  ocean. 

Next  morning,  after  a  ten-o'clock  breakfast, 
we  put  on  heavy  wraps,  as  the  wind  was  quite 
cool,  and  wandered  down  to  the  lake,  the  beau- 
ty of  which  I  cannot  describe.  On  our  return 
a  ride  was  suggested,  and  we  ladies  got  into  an 
Irish  jaunting-car — a  jolly  little  vehicle,  hold- 
ing four  persons  and  a  driver,  with  the  backs 
of  the  seats  together.  We  drove  out  to  Eoss 
Island,  where  are  the  ruins  of  Eoss  Castle,  an 
old  gray  stone  building,  partly  tumbled  down, 
and  overgrown  with  ivy. 

The  whole  of  the  county  (Kerry)  is  owned 
by  the  Earl  of  Kenmare,  whose  new  country 
mansion  we  saw  during  our  drive. 

Mary  G.  said  the  prettiest  things  she  saw 
were  the  tiny  donkeys;  they  were  "  so  cute  and 
sleepy  looking."  Very  often  one  of  them  would 
be  drawing  a  cart  on  which  was  piled  a  whole 
Irish  family  and  all  their  marketing. 


From  Qneenstown  to  Killariiei/.  25 

Auotlier  curiosity  was  the  monkey  puzzle- 
trees.  They  had  one  long  trunk  like  a  mon- 
key's tail,  with  a  lot  of  little  tails  branching 
out  from  the  sides  and  curling  up  at  the 
ends.  We  asked  our  guide,  or  driver,  if  they 
had  any  corn  in  that  country.  At  first  he  did 
not  seem  to  understand,  but  when  we  said 
**l7idian  corn,"  he  replied:  "Yes,  I  have  seen 
some  in  the  Earl  of  Kenmare's  green-house." 
He  had  never  heard  of  sweet  potatoes. 

We  girls  became  so  much  amused  at  the 
stillness  and  solemnity  of  every  thing  in  the 
drawing-room  after  dinner  that  we  all,  with 
one  accord,  rushed  precipitately  from  the  room 
and  dashed  upstairs  to  have  our  laugh  out, 
and  thus  prevent  an  undignified  explosion  be- 
fore all  the  grand  company. 

It  was  so  nice  to  go  to  sleep  at  night  on  a 
soft  bed  that  did  not  toss  us  from  side  to  side; 
to  have  plenty  of  room  to  walk  around;  not 
to  be  disturbed  by  the  roar  of  the  steamer's 
machinery,  and  to  awake  in  the  morning  and 
look  out  of  a  window  that  was  something  larger 
than  a  dinner-plate. 


26  A  GirVs  Journey. 

As  it  was  raining  on  Monday,  we  concluded 
not  to  prolong  our  stay  at  Killarney,  as  there 
would  be  no  chance  for  excursions  on  the  lake. 
They  say  there  that  their  rainy  spells  gener- 
ally last  al)out  ten  days,  and  that  they  have 
"three  or  four  of  them  a  month."  No  wonder 
Ireland  is  so  green! 


©HAF'TE^  HI. 

LIMERICK— DUBLIN— PORTRUSH— GLASGOW. 

RAIN  fell  nearly  all  the  time  we  vrere  in  Lim- 
erick, so  our  impressions  of  tlie  place  were 
decidedly  damp.  The  principal  point  of  inter- 
est was  the  old  cathedral  of  St.  Mary.  As  the 
chimes  are  rung  only  on  Sunday,  we  did  not 
hear  them;  but  we  went  through  the  church, 
seeing  many  ancient  tombs  and  monuments. 
It  was  very  cold  that  first  night  in  Limerick; 
and  after  sitting  on  the  floor,  writing  up  our 
journals  by  the  dim  light  of  one  solitary 
candle,  we  hurried  to  bed  in  order  to  get 
warm. 

It  was  raining  as  usual  next  morning;  but 
we  set  out,  equipped  with  cloaks  and  umbrel- 
las, to  see  something  of  the  city.  After  wan- 
dering around,  peeping  into  several  churches, 
and  trying  to  protect  ourselves  from  the  beg- 
gars (horrible-looking  creatures  who  blessed  us 

(27) 


28  A  Girl 's  Jour  net/. 

if  we  gave  them  a  penny,  and  cursed  us  with 
equal  vehemence  if  we  did  not),  we  found 
our  way  into  quite  a  pretty  little  park,  from 
which  place  the  rain  drove  us  back  to  the 
hotel. 

Just  before  leaving  for  the  station  we  bought 
some  Irish  point-lace  handkerchiefs  from  a 
poor,  wretched-looking  old  Avoman,  who  said 
she  had  been  working  in  lace  for  thirty -six 
years.  They  were  very  pretty,  with  a  row  of 
shamrock  leaves  worked  round  the  border, 
and  an  Irish  harp  in  each  corner. 

Leaving  Limerick  in  the  rain,  we  passed 
on  to  Dublin.  By  the  way  our  train  stopped 
at  a  little  station  called  Kildare,  of  which 
"sweet  Jenny,"  in  the  song,  was  "the  flower." 
I  felt  tempted  to  stop  awhile  in  this  quiet, 
shady  little  nook,  but  there  was  no  time  for 
tarrying. 

In  Dublin  we  were  delightfully  quartered  at 
the  Gresham  Hotel.  After  dinner  we  walked 
up  Sackville  Street,  past  the  O'Brien,  Bright, 
Nelson,  O'Connell,  and  King  William  monu- 
ments, also  Trinity  College  and  the  old  Par- 


Limerick — Dublin — Portrush — Glasgoiv.    29 

liament  building,  now  used  as  the  Bank  of 
Ireland. 

On  the  way  back  we  bought  some  Irish  can- 
dy, which  I  did  not  think  equal  to  American 
confectionery. 

In  our  rooms  that  night  we  felt  quite  rich, 
with  tiro  candles  for  illumination  and  a  set  of 
steps  from  which  to  climb  into  bed. 

On  Wednesday  we  "did  the  town,"  as  our 
English  friends  would  say.  First  we  went  to 
St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  where,  besides  many 
old  tombs  and  statues,  is  the  slab  which  marks 
the  last  resting-place  of  Dean  Swift  and  his 
Stella.  Each  of  us  sat  in  a  chair  made  from 
the  roof  of  the  old  church  said  to  have  been 
built  by  St.  Patrick  himself.  They  gave  us  a 
drink  of  cool  water  from  St.  Patrick's  well, 
which  is  inside  the  building.  After  a  delight- 
ful drive  through  Phoenix  Park  we  visited  the 
Zoological  Gardens,  and  then  went  to  see  the 
tomb  of  that  great  Irish  patriot,  Daniel  O'Con- 
nell ;  also  drove  past  the  house  where  Thomas 
Moore  Avas  born.  Phosnix  Park  is  quite  large, 
but  it  seemed  to  me  rather  bare  and  sunny.    I 


30  A  Girl  '.s  Journey. 

think  that  more  English  oaks  would  improve 
it. 

After  an  early  breakfast  our  line  of  march 
was  resumed — this  time  toward  Portrush  by 
the  way  of  Londonderry  and  Coleraine.  The 
country  looked  much  the  same  as  the  south  of 
Ireland,  except  that  a  little  more  care  and 
thrift  were  displayed  in  its  cultivation. 

The  hotel  at  Portrush  was  new,  and  kept 
something  on  the  American  plan.  We  had 
chicken  for  dinner  —  the  first  since  leaving 
home. 

Bright  and  early  next  morning  w^e  took  a  car 
and  drove  out  eight  miles  to  the  Giant's  Cause- 
way. The  road,  for  some  distance,  lay  along 
the  sea-shore,  and  the  views  from  different 
points  were  beautiful.  Getting  out  of  the  car 
on  the  way,  we  w^alked  down  to  the  great  rock 
where  is  the  "Wishing  Arch."  Another  curi- 
osity w^as  the  "  Devil's  Punch-bowl,"  but  as  I 
rolled  head-foremost  down  a  small  hill  on  the 
way  to  it,  my  recollections  of  liis  Satanic  maj- 
esty's drinking-vessel  are  rather  vague  and 
confused. 


Limerick — Dublin — Portrush — Glasgow,   31 

Leaving  the  car  at  the  Causeway  Hotel,  we 
secured  a  guide,  and  clambered  down  over  the 
rocks  into  a  small  boat,  so  as  to  take  our  first 
view  from  the  water.  Some  of  the  party,  how- 
ever, did  not  like  the  rolling  and  plunging  of 
our  little  craft,  so  we  rowed  ashore  and  walked 
round  another  way.  I  was  rather  disappointed 
at  the  first  view,  but  the  nearer  we  approached 
the  more  wonderful  it  became,  and  I  felt  fully 
repaid  for  all  the  rough  climbing  and  "tum- 
bling "  that  I  had  undergone. 

We  were  shown,  besides  the  three  Causeways 
— the  Little,  the  Middle,  and  the  Great — the 
"Lady's  Fan,"  the  "Organ,"  the  largest  and 
smallest  pillars,  and  "Prince  Arthur's  Chair;  " 
were  given  three  sips  of  water  from  an  old  well, 
and  then  each  of  us  made  a  wish  while  sitting 
in  what  is  called  the  "Wishing  Chair." 

My  wish  really  came  true.  I  need  not  tell 
exactly  what  it  was,  but  think  a  good  guesser 
would  come  to  the  conclusion  that  it  had  some- 
thing to  do  with  letters  from  "  the  other  side." 

After  buying  books  of  views  from  an  old 
woman  eighty  years  old,  and  stopping  for  a 


32  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

moment  to  see  a  man  put  a  white  mouse  into  a 
cap,  and  shake  out  an  Irish  potato,  we  climbed 
into  the  car  and  drove  back  to  Portrush.  We 
had  a  splendid  view  of  Dunluce  Castle,  the 
oldest  ruin  in  Ireland.  It  is  built  on  an  isl- 
find,  and  connected  with  the  main-land  by  a 
natuial  bridge  only  eighteen  inches  wide. 

While  passing  through  Belfast  in  the  after- 
noon we  tried  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the  rioters 
(called  "  patriots  "  in  America),  but  every  thing 
on  our  route  was  quiet  and  peaceful. 

Crossing  the  Irish  Sea  on  a  boat  called  the 
"  Grampus,"  we  arrived  at  Glasgow,  Scotland, 
about  five  o'clock  in  the  morning.  First,  a 
good  nap,  followed  by  breakfast  at  half-past 
twelve,  and  we  were  ready  for  sight-seeing. 

It  was  raining  in  the  afternoon,  so  we  took 
a  cab  and  drove  round  the  city.  The  residence 
streets  were  especially  handsome,  and  the  bus- 
iness thoroughfares,  as  dark  came  on,  were 
quite  brilliant  with  gas  and  electricity. 

When  we  ladies  rose  from  the  dinner-table 
that  evening  every  gentleman  in  the  dining- 
room  arose  too,  and  remained  standing  until 


Limerick — Dublin — Portrtish — Glasgoiv.    33 

we  had  passed  out.  It  was  an  act  of  courtesy 
we  had  never  seen  before,  and  impressed  us 
favorably  with  Scotch  manners. 

As  we  actually  had  gas  in  our  bed-rooms, 
we  girls  wanted  to  sit  up  nearly  all  night  in 
order  to  enjoy  the  novelty  of  it.  It  was  so  cool 
that  fires  were  pleasant  necessities.  The  next 
day  (Sunday)  we  started  out  to  attend  religious 
service,  and  I  think  even  if  we  had  not  so  in- 
tended would  have  drifted  to  church  with  the 
current,  for  the  whole  population  seemed  to  be 
surging  in  great  waves  to  the  various  places 
of  worship. 

We  heard  Dr.  Burns  preach,  but  his  accent 
was  so  queer  that  it  was  difficult  to  understand 
him.  The  music  was  grand,  and  just  before 
the  service  closed  they  sung  a  familiar  hymn, 
in  which  we  all  joined  heartily.  It  was  a  Pres- 
byterian Church,  of  course,  but  the  order  of 
worship  was  not  like  that  of  the  Presbyterians 
at  home. 

Many  of  the  streets  were  so  steep  that  walk- 
ing was  rather  a  climbing  exercise.    The  street- 
cars had  seats  on  top,  with  stairs  to  go  up. 
3 


34  A  Girl  *s  Journey. 


One  morning  we  had  Highland  mutton  and 
Scotch  herring  for  breakfast.  In  the  center 
of  the  table  was  "a  dish  fit  for  a  king"  to 
look  upon— a  bowl  of  beautiful  Scotch  heather. 


TROSACHS— STIRLING— EDINBURGH. 

LEAVING  Glasgow  Monday  morning,  we 
rode  for  a  short  distance  along  the  banks 
of  the  Clyde,  where  a  great  deal  of  ship-build- 
ing was  going  on.  Many  steamers  were  in 
the  docks  for  repairs,  and  others  were  in  proc- 
ess of  construction. 

Leaving  the  train  at  Balloch  pier,  we 
boarded  a  little  steamer  which  carried  us 
across  Loch  Lomond  to  Inversnaid,  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty-one  miles. 

From  the  lake  there  was  a  fine  view  of  the 
rugged  old  mountain,  Ben  Lomond,  of  poetic 
fame.  The  scenery  on  all  sides  was  beautiful 
^much  like  that  of  the  Hudson  Eiver.  We 
were  welcomed  on  landing  by  the  melodious 
strains  of  a  bagpipe,  the  first  we  had  heard 
on  Scottish  soil.  On  leaving  the  vessel  we 
climbed  into  a  long  coach,  or  Tally-ho,  and 

(35) 


36  A  GirVs  Jouniei/. 


went  dashing  through  the  Trosachs  in  fine 
style.  Several  barefooted,  little  boy  beggars 
followed  our  coach  nearly  all  the  ^vay  up  the 
mountain,  pleading  for  "  a  penny,  gentlemen, 
please,  sir,  if  you  please,"  and  to  attract  our 
attention  threw  bunches  of  heather  into  the 
carriage. 

We  sjoent  half  an  hour  at  Stronaclacher, 
where  Loch  Katrine  can  be  seen  to  the  best 
advantage;  and  such  a  lovely  little  toy-lake 
as  it  is!  Susie  and  I  brought  away  with  us 
some  ferns  and  wild  flowers  tliat  we  gathered 
from  near  the  edge  of  the  water. 

How  delighted  we  were  when  our  next 
steamer  drew  up  to  the  pier  and  we  found  it 
to  be  the  "  Bob  Boy,"  the  tiniest  thing  to  be 
called  a  steamer  we  had  ever  seen!  Neverthe- 
less, it  carried  us  bravely  across  tlie  loch,  past 
the  beautiful  little  isle  of  Ellen,"  and  on  to 
the  other  side. 

Entering  another  coach,  we  went  wliirling 
over  the  mountains  again,  only  stopping  long 


*"LadyoftheLuke.' 


Trosachs — Stirluuj — Edinhunjh.  37 


enough  at  the  Trosachs  Hotel  to  get  nicely 
warmed  np  with  Scotch  broth:  so  ravenously 
hungry  was  I  that  notliing  ever  tasted  better. 
Our  ride  carried  us  past  numerous  small 
lochs,  and  over  the  "  Brigg  of  Turk."  We  also 
had  a  fine  view  of  Ben  Venue  aud  Benledi. 

The  spot  where  Bob  Boy  planted  the  fiery 
cross  was  pointed  out,  as  was  also  the  place 
where  Boderick  and  Fitz  James  fought  the 
duel.  Leaving  the  coach  at  Callander,  the  train 
carried  us  to  Stirling,  where  we  were  glad 
enough  to  rest  our  weary  bodies  and  think 
over  the  delightful  experiences  of  the  day. 

Starting  out  early  next  morning  to  see 
something  of  Stirling,  we  drove  first  to  the 
castle.  Stationed  at  the  entrance  were  sev- 
eral sentinels  dressed  in  the  regular  High- 
land costume- kilts,  plaids,  and  all.  They 
looked  rather  cool  with  such  short  skirts,  and 
bare  legs.  Passing  over  the  draw-bridge,  we 
entered  a  winding  passage  and  saw  what  is 
called  the  "Lion's  Den;"  also  the  room  where 
James  II.  assassinated  the  Earl  of  Douglas. 
Then  we  had   a   magnificent  view  from   the 


Trosachs — Stirling — Edin  b  urgh.         39 

ramparts,  and  sat  on  the  step  where  Mary 
Queen  of  Scots  once  rested,  and  looked  at 
the  scenery  through  a  small  round  opening  in 
the  wall. 

Going  down  to  the  old  Greyfriars'  Church, 
built  in  1494,  we  saw  the  place  where  James 
VI.  was  crowned,  and  where  John  Knox 
preached  the  coronation  sermon;  we  then 
hurried  to  the  station  just  in  time  to  catch 
the  train  for  Edinburgh. 

Our  hotel  there  was  the  Royal,  on  Prince's 
Street.  Starting  out  sight-seeing  almost 
immediately,  we  climbed  up  to  the  old 
castle,  where  they  showed  us  a  great  many 
interesting  relics.  The  regalia  of  Scotland 
dazzled  our  eyes  with  its  magnificence.  We 
entered  Queen  Mary's  chamber,  where  James 
VI.  was  born— quite  a  small,  plain-looking 
room— and  then  visited  Margaret's  chapel,  the 
oldest  building  and  the  smallest  chapel  in 
Scotland. 

We  examined  with  great  interest  Mons 
Meg,  the  monster  cannon  which  was  burst  in 
firing  a  salute  upon  some  special  occasioQ, 


40  A  Git-rs  Jon r mi/. 


Holyrood  Palace  was  our  next  stopping- 
place,  and  there  we  were  shown  the  rooms  of 
Lord  Darnley  and  Queen  Mary,  with  the 
same  old  furniture  tliey  used  ranged  round 
the  walls.  Such  a  funny  old  bed,  such  queer, 
slim  chairs,  and  such  faded  coverings!  We 
girls  stole  a  peep  at  our  bangs  in  the  curious 
little  mirror  in  Queen  Mary's  dressing-case. 

They  showed  us  the  famous  blood-stains  on 
the  floor,  and  then  we  went  down  and  saw  the 
ruins  of  the  old  abbey. 

In  the  distance  could  be  seen  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  tumbling  and  glistening  in  the  sunlight. 

Not  far  from  our  hotel,  on  Prince's  Street, 
was  the  magnificent  Scott  monument,  stand- 
ing in  a  little  park.  Mary  Green  and  I  con- 
cluded to  attempt  the  ascent;  so  up  we  toiled, 
up  and  up,  until  we  could  look  down  on 
eight-story  houses.  It  seemed  to  me  we 
would  never  reach  the  top,  and  the  little 
winding  stairs  were  so  narrow  and  steep  that 
I  scratched  my  hands  on  the  walls,  and  took 
every  step  in  constant  terror  of  tumbling 
back  the  next.     We  were  fully  rewarded,  how- 

i 


Trosachs — Sthihu) — Edinb  urgh.  41 

ever,  by  the  view  from  the  summit,  for  the 
panorama  of  beautiful  Edinburgh  spread  out 
before  us  was  a  sight  worth  climbing  many 
steps  to  see. 

Next  day  was  spent  at  the  Exposition,  where 
there  were  so  many  wonderful  things  to  be 
seen  that  a  full  description  would  be  impos- 
sible. 

There  was  a  street  ai-ranged  to  represent 
Old  Edinburgh,  with  all  sorts  of  funny  little 
stalls  and  booths,  where  they  sold  a  variety 
of  queer  things.  The  shop-keepers  were 
dressed  in  the  styles  of  a  hundred  years  ago, 
and  spoke  such  a  strange  old  Scotch  dialect 
that  even  the  Scotch  people  themselves  could 
not  understand  the  language,  and  laughed  at 
it  as  much  as  we  did. 

Going  back  to  our  hotel  we  girls  begged  to 
be  allowed  to  ride  on  top .  of  the  street-car, 
and,  permission  being  granted,  we  clambered 
up  and  had  fine  fun  from  our  elevated  posi- 
tion. 

We  left  Edinburgh  next  day,  and  reached 
Melrose  by  twelve  o'clock.     How  we  enjoyed 


42  A  GirVs  Journey. 

the  grand  old  abbey!  such  a  quiet,  restful  place 
after  the  whirl  and  hurry  of  a  great  city!  We 
examined  the  different  chapels,  the  strange  in- 
scriptions, and  the  beautiful  arches  and  pillars 
that  have  escaped  destruction.  Before  the 
place  where  the  high  altar  stood  is  a  stone 
which  covers  a  casket  containing  the  heart  of 
Robert  Bruce,  and  on  the  right  is  the  grave  of 
Michael  Scott,  the  wizard.  I  could  not  help 
wishing  all  the  time  that  Oliver  Cromwell  and 
the  rest  of  the  destroyers  had  turned  their  at- 
tention to  something  else,  and  left  the  fine 
old  abbey  in  its  former  beauty  and  splendor. 
It  is  really  sad  to  see  the  ruin  and  devastation 
of  those  rude  hands. 

Next  we  drove  out  to  Abbotsford,  Scott's 
charming  home.  Having  seen  its  beauty,  I 
am  not  surprised  that  he  loved  it  so  much. 
They  conducted  us  first  into  the  great  hall; 
next  to  his  study,  Avliere  this  wonderful  genias 
toiled  for  so  many  years;  then  through  the 
library,  drawing-room,  and  armory.  On  Sir 
AValter's  desk  was  a  box  made  of  wood  from 
the  Spanish  Armada,  and  beside  it  his  well- 


TrosachsStirlinc/— Edinburgh.  43 


worn  chair.  Among  other  curiosities  scattered 
through  the  different  rooms  were  Scott's  last 
suit  of  clothes,  his  sword,  purse,  Burns's  drink- 
ing-glass,  Eob  Eoy's  sword,  a  very  beautiful 
ebony  cabinet,  fifteen  chairs  presented  by 
George  IV.,  and  Queen  Mary's  jewelry -box, 
with  the  cross  which  she  held  when  executed. 

The  gentle  ripple  of  the  Tweed  came  in  at 
the  library  windows,  and  looking  around  we 
saw  twenty  thousand  volumes  collected  by  the 
great  author.  The  paper  on  the  walls  of  the 
drawing-room  was  very  curious — being  hand- 
painted,  and  supposed  to  have  been  the  work 
of  Chinese  artists. 

We  drove  back  to  Melrose,  and  lunched  at 
the  Abbey  Hotel;  then  took  the  train  for  Ap- 
pleby, which  we  found  to  be  a  sleepy  little 
country  town.  We  lodged  at  a  regular  old- 
fashioned  English  Inn,  the  King's  Head,  and 
the  reader  may  be  sure  w^e  enjoyed  this  new 
experience.  Our  dinner  was  served  in  a  cheer- 
ful little  coffee-room,  all  to  ourselves,  and  we 
had  the  freshest  batter,  nicest  honey,  whitest 
bread,  and  the  richest  yellow  cream  we  had 


44  A  Girl  *s  Journeij. 

Been  since  leaving  Tennessee.     It  really  tasted 
like  a  good  home-supper. 

AVe  were  up  bright  and  early  next  morning, 
and  took  a  long  walk  around  the  place  before 
the  dew  was  off  the  grass,  tilled  our  lungs  with 
fresh  country  air,  and  felt  prepared  to  plunge 
into  all  the  smoke  and  fog  that  even  London 
might  have  in  store  for  us. 


LONDON. 

R  WHOLE  day  was  consumed  in  making  the 
trip  from  Appleby  to  London;  consequent- 
ly we  were  glad  to  reach  the  end  of  our  jour- 
ney, and  secure  nice  rooms  at  the  Inns  of 
Court  Hotel,  which,  as  may  be  supposed  from 
the  name,  has  always  been  a  favorite  stopping- 
place  for  lawyers. 

What  great  rejoicing  there  was  next  morn- 
ing when  Uncle  Robert  returned  from  Cook's 
office  with  our  mail -the  first  since  leaving 
home !     Five  letters,  besides  papers,  fell  to  my 
share,  and  with  a  voracious  appetite  for  news 
I  immediately  sat  down  to  devour  them.  AVhen 
every  thing  had   been  read,  reread,  and  dis- 
cussed, we   started  for  a  walk,  passed  down 
Fleet  Street,  and,  being  attracted  to  St.  Paul's 
Cathedral  by  the  chimes,  were  just  in  time  for 
the  evening  service,  and  heard  some  very  sweet 

(45) 


46  A  Girl  '.s  Journey. 

music  by  fifty  little  choristers.  Then  we  went 
over  the  churcli,  and  looked  at  the  various 
monuments  and  inscriptions,  which  were  of 
the  usual  type. 

On  going  to  our  rooms  at  night  it  was  cus- 
tomary to  stop  at  a  little  table  in  the  hall,  and 
take  with  us  one  of  the  candles  placed  there. 
We  girls  discovered  that  here  was  a  good  op- 
portunity to  get  more  light,  so  occasionally  we 
helped  ourselves  generously,  and  made  a  rush 
for  our  rooms  in  order  to  escape  the  vigilant 
eye  of  the  chambermaid.  However,  this  was 
only  done  when  dark  necessity  compelled. 

The  weather  was  all  we  could  have  wished, 
and  we  had  not  a  chance,  as  yet,  to  decide  how 
we  liked  a  London  fog. 

A  very  peaceful  Sabbath  was  spent  in  at- 
tending service  at  St.  Paul's  in  the  morning, 
and  driving  home  by  the  Parliament  Houses, 
Westminster  Abbey,  Somerset  House,  along 
the  Thames  Embankment,  and  up  Fleet  Street 
and  the  Strand. 

Next  morning  we  started  out  sight-seeing  in 
earnest,  making  Westminster  Abbey  our  first 


London.  4:7 


stopping  -  place  after  having  seen  Charing 
Cross,  Trafalgar  Square,  the  old  Bank  of  En- 
gland, and  many  other  interesting  things  and 
places.  I  shall  leave  to  the  guide-books  and 
learned  travelers  an  enumeration  of  all  the 
tombs  and  monuments  with  which  the  old  ab- 
bey is  filled,  and  only  add  that  we  spent  several 
hours  w^andering  within  its  gloomy  w^alls,  and 
then  managed  to  make  our  way  out  through 
the  crowds  which  were  constantly  pouring  in. 

While  waiting  before  the  American  Ex- 
change who  should  come  up  but  Misses  Emma 
and  Lillie  Morrow,  of  Miss  Ford's  party— all 
of  Nashville .  They  accepted  an  invitation  to 
dine  with  us  in  the  evening,  and  we  had  quite 
a  pleasant  time  talking  over  our  various  expe- 
riences and  the  latest  home  news. 

I  was  afraid  that  during  our  stay  in  London 
I  would  injure  my  eyes  trying  to  look  at  both 
sides  of  the  street  at  once,  to  say  nothing  of 
occasional  glimpses  before  and  behind. 

As  loyal  Methodists,  of  course  we  visited 
City  Eoad  Chapel,  and  saw  the  house  where 
John  Wesley  lived,  his  pulpit,  desk,  and  chair. 


48  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

We  were  allowed  to  gather  as  souvenirs  some 
little  sprigs  of  green  from  tbe  grave  of  the 
great  founder.  Across  from  City  lload  is 
Bunhill  Fields  Cemetery,  where,  besides  the 
graves  of  Bunyan,  De  Foe,  and  Isaac  Watts, 
is  that  of  Susanna,  the  mother  of  the  Wesleys. 

On  Tuesday  morning  we  took  a  long  drive 
through  Hyde  Park  to  the  Albert  Memorial 
in  Kensington  Gardens.  This  monument  is 
erected  on  the  site  of  the  first  World's  Fair. 
The  lower  part  ol  it  is  beautiful,  but  the  gen- 
eral effect  is  rather  spoiled  by  the  gilding  and 
gaudy  colors  on  its  top.  At  the  corners  are 
marble  pieces  representing  Europe,  Asia,  Af- 
rica, and  America.  These  are  finely  executecj 
and  if  not  presumptuous  we  would  suggest 
that  Victoria  made  a  mistake  in  not  having 
the  whole  monument  constructed  of  white 
marble  and  ornamented  with  fewer  glaring 
colors. 

Driving  along  Piccadilly,  we  saw  the  Roths- 
child mansion  and  the  houses  of  the  Dukes 
of  Devonshire  and  Cambridge.  Among  the 
palaces  seen  on  that  same  morning  were  Buck- 


London,  49 


ingliam,  St.  James,  and  the  residences  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales  and  his  brother,  the  Duke  of 
Connaught,  who  was  at  that  time  absent  in 
India. 

The  Queen  was  not  at  Buckingham;  in  fact, 
it  was  said  that  she  rarely  spent  more  than  five 
days  there  during  the  year.  The  Prince  of 
Wales  was  entertaining  the  King  of  Portugal 
at  the  royal  palace. 

Our  next  "  lion  "  was  the  old  Tower  of  Lon- 
don. Going  first  to  the  jewel-room,  we  feasted 
our  eyes  on  the  most  magnificent  regalia  in 
the  world.  More  conspicuous  than  any  thing 
else  was  the  crown,  valued  at  £1,000,000. 
Placed  all  around  this  were  the  various  orbs, 
diadems,  maces,  scepters,  royal  plate,  and  oth- 
er beautiful  works  of  art  in  gold  and  precious 
stones.  We  were  shown  a  model  of  that  great 
diamond,  the  Koh-i-noor—  the  original  being 
worn  in  a  brooch  by  the  queen.  I  could  have 
spent  hours  gazing  at  these  glittering  treas- 
ures, but  we  were  obliged  to  make  the  most  of 
our  time,  so  passed  on  to  the  armory.  Here 
were  displayed  all  kinds  of  weapons,  and  many 
4 


50  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

curious  suits  of  armor  from  Eugland,  France, 
India,  China,  and  numbers  of  different  places. 
There  was  a  figure  on  horseback  which  rep- 
resented Queen  Elizabeth  as  she  appeared 
when  on  her  way  to  St.  Paul's  to  give  thanks 
after  the  destruction  of  the  great  Armada.  In 
the  center  of  the  court  of  the  Tower  was  a  brass 
tablet  marking  the  spot  where  the  scaffold 
stood  on  which  Lady  Jane  Grey,  Anne  Boleyn, 
and  Catherine  Howard  were  beheaded.  Com- 
ing down  the  narrow  stairs,  we  passed  the  place 
where  the  two  poor  little  princes  were  buried 
after  having  been  so  cruelly  murdered. 

That  evening  we  met  some  very  pleasant 
people  in  the  drawing-room  of  the  hotel.  One 
young  fellow,  who  had  the  appearance  and 
pronunciation  of  a  dude,  joined  in  the  conver- 
sation^ and  we  were  much  amused  at  some  of 
his  remarks,  which  were  invariably  prefaced 
and  punctuated  with  such  decidedly  English 
expressions  as  "awfully  jolly,"  "  awfully  nice," 
"awfully  narsty,"  "beastly,"  "darn't  you 
knaw,"  and  others  of  like  character.  He  in- 
quired if  we  \^re  from  Canada,  and  did  not 


London.  51 


seem   at   all    complimented    when   somebody 
asked  i£  he  were  a  FrenchmcDi. 

Wednesday  we  spent  at  the  Japanese  vil- 
lage, and  a  charming  day  it  was.  A  whole 
colony  of  Japanese  live  there,  working  at 
their  different  trades,  keeping  house,  and 
seemingly  as  contented  and  happy  as  if  in 
their  native  country.  They  were  dressed  in 
the  national  costumes,  and  chatted  merrily 
with  each  other  in  their  own  language.  We 
watched  the  process  of  hair-dressing,  which 
was  very  curious,  and  then  walked  around  and 
bought  some  little  straw  boxes  of  Japanese 
sweets  from  a  queer-looking  old  woman.  We 
fell  completely  in  love  with  two  cunning  little 
Japanese  children,  who  trotted  about  on  their 
tiny  wooden  shoes,  and  did  not  seem  to  be 
afraid  of  anybody.  In  a  bamboo  cage  was  a 
small  Japanese  dog  with  a  turned-up  nose. 
He  was  quite  gentle,  and  kindly  allowed  us  to 
pat  him  on  the  head  as  much  as  we  liked. 
After  attending  two  entertainments,  and  see- 
ing some  very  wonderful  umbrella  feats,  wire- 
walking,  and  screen-balancing,  besides  hearing 


52  .1  Girl's  Journey. 

some  strange  Japanese  music,  and  watching 
some  of  the  ladies  go  through  with  their  na- 
tive dances,  we  reluctantly  took  our  leave.  I 
think  Mary  Green  really  wanted  to  carry  oflf 
one  of  those  tiny  Japs. 

Next  day  we  went  shopping,  and  I  am  sure 
we  must  have  walked  many  miles,  for  we  did 
not  get  back  to  lunch  until  two  o'clock. 

One  china-store  that  we  visited  was  particu- 
larly beautiful.  There  was  a  very  large  room 
full  of  fine  glass-ware  of  every  description. 
The  roof  was  of  stained  glass,  and  it  seemed 
as  though  we  had  wandered  into  fairy-land. 
The  walls  were  lined  with  mirrors,  and  the 
cut-glass  chandeliers,  which  were  suspended 
from  the  ceiling,  were  reflected  and  re-reflect- 
ed in  glittering  splendor.  Here  and  there 
twinkled  little  colored  fairy  -  lights,  and  Ave 
scarcely  dared  to  move  for  fear  this  dazzling, 
sparkling  bubble  wdiich  enveloped  us  would 
burst  and  leave  only  a  little  soap  in  our  eyes. 

After  lunch  we  visited  Madame  Tussaud's 
wax-works.  Here  we  found  ourselves  face  to 
face  with  all  the  heroes  and  heroines  of  an- 


London.  56 


cient  and  modern  times— Napoleon  Bonaparte, 
nearly  all  the  kings  and  queens  of  England; 
Victoria,  with  her  whole  family,  surrounded 
by  her  court;  our  own  George  Washington, 
Garfield,  John  Wesley,  Byron,  Burns,  Shakes- 
peare, and  hundreds  of  others.  We  watched 
the  life-like  breathing  of  the  sleeping  beauty, 
and  could  hardly  persuade  ourselves  that  she 
was  not  alive.  Uncle  Kobert  walked  up  and 
put  his  hand  on  the  shoulder  of  a  policeman 
stationed  near  the  door,  and  said  something  to 
him.  Imagine  his  surprise  when  he  found  he 
had  been  talking  to  a  man  of  wax! 

Passing  on  to  another  room,  Susie  and  I 
climbed  into  Napoleon's  coach,  and  had  its 
various  conveniences  explained  to  us.  Then 
we  went  down  into  the  Chamber  of  Horrors, 
and  saw  enough  murderers,  thieves,  and.  other 
terrible  characters  to  supply  us  with  bad 
dreams  for  a  whole  month. 

The  next  day  was  spent  in  the  Zoological 
Garden,  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world. 
While  standing  before  one  of  the  monkey- 
cages  Susie  got  too  close,  and  in  an  instant 


54  A  GirVs  Jonrney. 

one  of  the  monkeys  had  reached  out  and 
snatched  every  i)article  of  trimming  from  her 
hat,  and,  screaming  with  delight,  went  climb- 
ing up  into  the  top  of  the  cage  with  his  prize 
streaming  out  behind  him.  Susie's  face,  when 
she  discovered  her  loss,  was  a  picture,  and  the 
little  boys  who  were  standing  around  fairly 
roared  and  shrieked  with  amusement.  "What 
fun  those  monkeys  did  have  with  that  ribbon! 
They  dressed  up  in  it,  fought  over  it,  pulled 
it  to  pieces,  and  altogether  had  such  a  thor- 
oughly good  time  that  we  told  the  keeper  not 
to  take  it  away  from  them,  as  he  offered  to  do. 
Another  amusing  sight  was  watching  "Old 
Sallie,"  the  orang-outang,  put  on  a  kid  glove. 
She  knew  just  how  to  smooth  down  the  fin- 
gers, and  seemed  to  be  intensely  interested  in 
having  it  fit  exactly  right.  Before  leaving  we 
girls  took  a  ride  on  a  big  elephant,  also  on  a 
camel.  I  prefer  the  gait  of  the  elephant.  It 
does  not  jerk  one  quite  so  hard. 

We  had  our  courier,  Mr.  Dattari,  an  Italian 
from  Florence,  to  dine  with  us  that  evening, 
and  found  him  to  be  quite  an  elegant  gentle- 


London.  _^ 

man.     His  conversation  was  interesting,  and 
he  spoke  good  English. 

We  had  by  this  time  become  very  much  at 
home  in  London,  and  found  our  way  around  to 
different  placeB  without  any  trouble  whatever. 
I  wish  I  had  time  to  tell  of  all  the  wonderful 
places  visited  and  the  people  we  met,  but  must 
hurry  on,  lest  we  tarry  too  long  in  the  great 
metropolis. 


FROM  LONDON  TO  BRIGHTON. 

ON  Saturday  we  decided  to  make  an  excur- 
sion, selecting  Sydenham  as  the  most  de- 
sirable place  to  visit.  It  was  only  a  short  ride 
from  London,  and  the  weather  was  fine.  Leav- 
ing the  train,  we  walked  around  the  Crystal 
Palace  for  some  time,  looking  at  the  statuary, 
fountains,  beautiful  tropical  plants,  works  of 
art,  and  various  fancy  things  in  the  booths. 
After  lunch  we  went  into  the  music-hall  and 
heard  a  grand  organ  recital,  then  took  our 
places  before  the  stand  and  beheld  the  mys- 
terious trick  of  the  "  vanishing  lady."  Some 
Japanese  performers  came  on,  and  entertained 
us  highly  with  their  dexterous  feats.  Next  on 
the  programme  were  some  wonderful  aerial  per- 
formances, which  fairly  made  our  heads  swim. 
By  this  time  they  were  beginning  to  light 

up,  and  when  the  great  building  was  fully  il- 
(56) 


From  London  to  Brighton,  57 


luminated  with  thousands  and  thousands  of 
colored  lights,  it  seemed  an  enchanted  place, 
while  the  splashing  of  the  fountains  and  the 
sounds  of  exquisite  music  did  not  dispel  the 
illusion.  We  turned  away  with  reluctance, 
deciding  this  to  have  been  a  day  running  over 
with  pleasure. 

Sunday  was  damp  and  rainy,  but  we  went 
to  church  in  spite  of  the  weather— drove  across 
the  river  to  the  Tabernacle  to  hear  Spurgeon, 
one  of  the  greatest  preachers  in  the  world,  de- 
liver one  of  his  best  sermons.  I  felt  quite  at 
home  when  the  immense  congregation  of  five 
thousand  people  sung  a  hymn  to  Duke  Street 
without  an  organ,  and  every  stanza  lined.  The 
second  prayer  was  grand,  followed  by  the  ser- 
mon— plain  and  simple  enough  for  any  child 
to  understand  —  perfectly  practical,  with  no 
flowery  flights,  and  so  earnestly  and  forcibly 
delivered  that,  as  Susie  said,  "You  had  to 
listen  whether  you  wanted  to  or  not."  The 
minister  did  not  have  on  a  gown,  — this  was  a 
great  comfort  to  us  and  him-and  he  did  not 
read  his  sermon. 


58  A  Girl 's  Journey. 


Monday  was  spent  at  the  British  Museum, 
and  the  simple  act  of  seeing  was  no  light  un- 
dertaking. We  were  interested  in  the  ancient 
manuscripts,  books  in  old  type,  and  many  other 
curious  things;  but  I  will  be  honest  enough  to 
confess  that  the  broken-nosed,  legless,  armless, 
headless,  and  oftentimes  bodiless  pieces  of  stat- 
uary had  little  beauty  or  attraction  for  me; 
in  fact,  proved  to  be  rather  what  our  English 
friends  would  call  ''  an  awful  bore,  don't  you 
know!  "  My  taste  very  evidently  needed  cul- 
tivation in  that  direction. 

Mr.  Arthur  Marks,  of  Tennessee,  called  on 
our  party  in  the  evening.  Of  course  we  were 
glad  to  meet  somebody  from  home. 

Next  day  we  visited  the  National  Art  Gal- 
lery, and  saw  hundreds  of  the  treasured  works 
of  the  old  masters.  I  was  most  pleased  with 
Murillo's  "  Holy  Family." 

Then  we  went  to  the  Kensington  Museum 
and  the  Indian  Exhibit,  where  there  were  more 
pictures,  statues,  old  carriages,  lovely  china 
and  porcelain,  Indian  ornaments,  exquisite  em- 
broidery, beautiful  brocades,  Chinese  pagodas, 


From  London  to  Brighton.  59 

ivory  boxes,  carved  chairs,  queer-looking  mu- 
sical instruments,  besides  countless  thousands 
of  other  things  that  I  cannot  remember. 

Another  excursion  was  planned  for  the  next 
day,  this  time  up  to  old  York,  in  the  north 
country.  As  we  walked  into  the  dining-room 
of  the  hotel  in  York  that  evening  I  heard  a 
gentleman  whisper:  "They  are  Americans." 
I  should  like  to  know  how  he  knew  it,  for  I  do 
not  think  we  had  even  spoken. 

As  soon  as  breakfast  was  over  next  morn- 
ing, we  took  an  open  carriage  and  drove  around 
York — or  rather  into  York,  for  our  hotel  was 
outside  the  walls  of  the  old  city  proper.  We 
saw  the  castle,  many  curious  houses  with  pro- 
jecting upper  stories  that  almost  met  across 
the  narrow  streets,  the  Lord  Mayor's  mansion, 
and  last,  but  not  least,  the  old  Minster,  for 
which  the  place  is  famous.  The  "  Five  Sis- 
ters "  window  excited  our  admiration,  and  we 
spent  an  hour  wandering  about  the  church 
looking  at  its  massive  architecture  and  curious 
relics. 

We  then  took  the  train  for  Cambridge,  and 


60  A  Girl  *s  Journey. 

were  driven  over  the  town,  saw  its  seventeen 
colleges — the  principal  one  of  which  is  Trin- 
ity, its  beautiful  grounds  shaded  with  grand 
old  English  oaks— and  reached  the  station 
just  an  hour  too  soon,  the  hungriest  crowd  in 
Great  Britain.  Uncle  Robert  was  sent  out  on 
a  foraging  expedition,  and  came  back  with 
some  sandwiches.  These  were  soon  devoured, 
and  he  went  for  more.  Another  supply  dis- 
appeared as  quickly  as  the  first.  The  third 
time  he  returned  with  a  bag  of  cold  boiled  eggs. 
We  finished  these  and  called  for  more.  There 
were  no  more,  so  we  ordered  that  some  be 
cooked,  and,  as  they  were  only  just  done  when 
the  train  came,  we  got  into  the  carriage  and 
continued  our  feast  on  hot  eggs  instead  of  cold 
ones. 

Reaching  London  rather  late,  we  spent  the 
night  at  the  St.  Pancras  Hotel,  which  is  said 
to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe. 

A  visit  to  the  Indian  and  Colonial  Exhibi- 
tion occupied  the  next  day,  where  much  of  in- 
terest was  to  be  seen. 

Old  London  was  represented,  and  we  drank 


From  London  to  Brighton.  61 

water  from  a  fountain  in  one  of  its  narrow 
streets.  Wandering  into  the  garden,  we  sat 
down  to  listen  to  the  music,  and  asked  a  waiter 
for  some^lemonade.  He  brought  us  four  bot- 
tles, and  poured  their  contents  into  our  glasses. 
It  tasted  something  like  hard  cider,  but  more 
like  inferior  soda-water.  We  concluded  that 
the  old  English  did  not  know  how  to  make 
good  lemonade.  One  very  interesting  sight 
of  the  Exhibition  was  a  perfect  representation 
of  an  African  jungle,  with  the  tigers,  lions, 
wild  boars,  monkeys,  undergrowth,  and  all 
complete.  We  staid  until  after  dark  to  see 
the  grand  illuminations.  Just  as  the  clock 
chimed  the  half-hour  past  six  all  the  grounds 
burst  into  light.  The  tops  of  the  buildings 
were  outlined  with  tiny,  twinkling  globes;  also 
the  monuments,  shrubs,  trees,  flower-beds, 
and  every  conceivable  place  that  could  hold  a 
light.  The  whole  was  made  more  brilliant  by 
electricity,  while  a  fountain  in  the  center  of 
the  lake  sparkled  and  rippled  with  all  the  col- 
ors of  the  rainbow. 

Susie  and  I  decided  to  take  a  rest-day,  so 


62  A  GirVs  Journey. 

on  Saturday,  \vliile  Aunt  Anna  and  Mary  G. 
went  shopping,  we  remained  at  the  hotel  and 
spent  the  time  reading,  writing,  practicing, 
and  lounging. 

On  Sunday  morning  Dr.  Parker  preached 
at  the  City  Temple.  I  was  forcibly  reminded, 
all  during  his  discourse,  of  Henry  Irving,  the 
actor.  Their  voices  were  alike,  and  they  had 
much  the  same  manner  and  gestures.  There 
was  too  much  elocutionary  effort  in  the  ser- 
mon for  me,  and  it  contained  very  few  striking 
thoughts,  but  was  replete  with  pretty  words. 

As  I  was  sealing  a  letter  in  our  room  that 
night,  Mary  G.  rushed  in  and  announced  that 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Charles  Eastman  were  down- 
stairs. We  hurried  to  the  drawing-room,  and 
sure  enough  there  they  w^ere— had  come  over 
on  the  "  Umbria,"  been  through  a  storm,  and 
landed  at  Liverpool  the  day  before.  They  en- 
gaged rooms  at  the  "  Inns  of  Court,"  and  at 
dinner  next  day  we  had  the  whole  party  assem- 
bled, with  the  addition  of  Miss  Macklin,  a 
young  lady  Tvho  came  over  on  the  steamer 
with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Eastman. 


From  London  to  Brighton.  63 

We  ladies  spent  the  next  day  in  going 
through  Whitley's  immense  store.  I  could 
have  squandered  a  large  fortune  there  with 
but  little  effort,  and  could  have  furnished  a 
whole  house,  from  a  pug-dog  to  a  piano. 

Next  day  we  made  an  excursion  up  the 
Thames  to  Carlyle's  house,  No.  24  Cheyne 
Eow,  Chelsea,  a  very  plain,  unpretending  dom- 
icile. Here  the  great  author  lived  for  nearly 
twenty-five  years,  and  here  also  was  the  scene 
of  poor  Mrs.  Carlyle's  perplexing  household 
cares.  There  were  placards  in  the  windows 
announcing  that  it  was  "  to  let."  Then  we 
went  down  the  river  past  Somerset  House, 
Lambeth  Castle,  and  the  Tower,  under  old 
London  Bridge,  past  the  docks  and  wharves, 
and  on  to  Greenwich,  to  visit  the  Observatory. 
Just  think  of  it!  From  there  we  rode  back 
almost  the  whole  way  to  our  hotel,  a  distance 
of  fifteen  miles,  on  a  street-car! 

Another  long  rest-day,  as  the  weather  was 
bad,  and  we  got  on  the  train  and  ran  down  to 
Brighton.  First  we  visited  the  Pavilion,  which 
was  occupied  by  Queen  Victoria  during  her 


64  A  GirVs  Journey. 

early  married  life.  Then  we  went  down  to 
the  beach  and  walked  out  to  the  end  of  the 
new  chain-pier.  The  fishermen  were  there 
mending  their  sails,  with  nets  spread  on  the 
sands  to  dry.  Susie  and  I  had  '*  lots"  of  fun 
running  races  with  the  breakers.  It  was  while 
walking  along  the  chain-pier  that  Uncle  Eob- 
ert  asked  an  old  confectionery  woman  "  which 
one  of  his  daughters  most  resembled  him  ?  " 
Her  answer  was:  "  The  two  other  young  ladies 
look  like  their  mother,  but  this  one,"  point- 
ing to  me,  "  is  exactly  like  her  father,  sir." 
We  were  much  amused  at  the  way  she  had 
tangled  our  relationship.  After  driving  for 
some  time  along  the  beach,  meeting  numbers 
of  handsome  turn-outs,  we  turned  our  faces 
Londonward  again,  and  that  night  marked 
down  in  our  journals  another  red-letter  day. 

On  Friday  the  clerk  of  the  weather  con- 
cluded to  give  us  some  variety,  so  we  were  fa- 
vored with  a  genuine  London  fog.  At  half- 
past  nine  we  ate  breakfast  by  gas-light,  and 
were  ol)liged  to  light  tlie  candles  in  our  rooms. 
Susie  and  I  did  not  go  out,  and  at  twelve  o'clock 


From  London  to  Br{(jhto)i.  65 

we  could  not  see  to  read  at  the  drawing-room 
windows  without  the  gas,  and  all  the  street- 
lamps  were  lighted.  I  was  glad  to  have  seen 
a  genuine  London  fog,  but  one  was  enough. 
The  fog  is  of  a  peculiar  color — a  kind  of  green- 
ish, grayish  yellow — and  seems  almost  thick 
enough  to  cut  with  a  knife. 

That  night  we  girls  had  a  feast  in  our  room. 
We  spread  a  towel  over  the  table,  made  lem- 
onade in  the  glasses  on  the  wash-stand,  and 
stirred  it  with  the  handles  of  our  tooth-brushes. 
The  chambermaid  brought  us  some  ice;  we 
begged  the  sugar  from  one  of  the  waiters;  laid 
out  our  store  of  sweets — consisting  of  candy, 
apples,  a  pear,  and  a  little  butter-scotch — and 
secured  enough  extra  candles  to  have  a  grand 
illumiiiation.  I  heard  one  of  the  three  com- 
plaining next  morning  that  she  did  not  feel 
very  well,  but  the  other  two  were  all  right. 

The  time  for  leaving  England  having  drawn 
near,  we  began  packing  in  earnest,  as  the 
trunks  were  to  be  left  in  London  until  our  re- 
turn eight  months  hence.  Our  valises  were 
well  stuffed,  and  it  took  a  great  deal  of  strap- 
5 


66  A  Girl 's  JoKrnri/. 

ping  and  squeezing  before  we  could  close 
them. 

On  Sunday  we  rested,  after  hearing  Dr. 
Shorr  preach  in  a  very  energetic  manner  at 
the  Wesleyan  Chapel. 

Next  morning,  when  we  started  from  the 
hotel,  all  the  waiters,  porters,  chambermaids, 
"boots,"  and  clerks  that  we  had  ever  even 
looked  at  were  assembled  to  see  us  off;  and 
such  smiles,  bows,  and  farewells!  We  re- 
turned their  adieus  with  shillmc/s,  and,  giving 
ourselves  entirely  into  our  courier's  charge, 
stepped  into  the  waiting  cabs,  were  driven  to 
the  station,  and  continued  our  journey  to  the 
far  East.  From  this  time  forward  we  became 
"  Cookies,"  as  Cook's  tourists  are  called  in  Eu- 
rope, and  surely  nothing  that  'could  have  been 
desired  to  make  our  trip  comfortable  and  pleas- 
ant was  left  undone.  AVe  were  relieved  of  all 
care  and  resix)nsibility,  our  mail  was  forwarded 
regularly  and  safely,  and  the  whole  burden  of 
travel  made  as  easy  and  delightful  as  possible. 


PARIS. 

ON  the  way  from  London  to  Dover  we 
passed  through  Canterbury,  famous  for 
its  cathedral,  where  Thomas  k  Becket  was 
murdered  in  1170,  and  also  for  the  association 
of  the  quaint  old  tales  of  Chaucer. 

We  had  been  dreading  the  crossing  of  the 
English  Channel,  and  it  was  with  fear  and 
trembling  that  we  stepped  on  board  the  "  Pe- 
trel." However,  the  sky  was  blue,  the  water 
calm,  and  every  thing  so  charming,  that  our 
little  vessel  proved  not  to  be  a  "sk>rmy  pe- 
trel," and  carried  us  across  as  gently  and 
smoothly  as  could  have  been  desired.  Nobody 
was  seasick  except  Susie,  and  she  had  only 
a  slight  attack. 

As  soon  as  a  landing  was  made  at  Calais, 
what  a  jabbering  and  confusion  greeted  our 
ears!     The  porters  were  shouting  and  yelling 

(67) 


68  A  GirVs  Journey. 

iu  Frencli,  and  I  realized  forcibly,  for  the 
first  time,  that  I  was  '*a  strauger  iu  a  strange 
land." 

Another  long  journey  on  the  train,  a  farci- 
cal examination  of  the  baggage,  and  we  were 
at  last  iu  beautiful  Paris,  rattling  along  its 
brilliantly  lighted  streets  in  cabs. 

None  of  our  party  si:)oke  any  of  the  foreign 
languages,  so  we  left  all  the  arrangements 
about  rooms,  etc.,  to  our  courier,  Mr.  Dattari, 
and  he  proved  himself  thoroughly  competent 
to  take  care  of  us. 

I  could  have  slept  till  noon  the  next  day, 
if  Uncle  Eobert  had  not  waked  us  early,  in 
order  to  make  ready  and  start  out  sight-see- 
ing. 

It  seemed  strange  not  to  be  able  to  read  the 
signs  and  advertisements,  and  not  to  under- 
stand what  the  people  were  saying  as  they 
passed  us  on  the  streets. 

Of  course  we  went  first  to  the  Palace  of  the 
Louvre,  which  is  a  great  museum  of  beautiful 
things  of  art.  A  great  many  copyists  were  at 
work  before  the  grand  old   masterpieces  of 


..iSSik 


Paris.  69 

painting,  and  some  of  their  efforts  were  fine. 
The  decorations  of  the  walls  and  ceilings  of 
the  palace  were  magnificent,  and  the  great 
glittering  halls  stretched  out  in  seemingly 
endless  perspective.  One  very  attractive  feat- 
ure was  a  set  of  thirty  immense  paintings  by 
Murillo,  representing  different  scenes  in  the 
life  of  Maria  de'  Medici.  We  came  out  tired 
and  hungry,  and  glad  to  find  a  cake-shop 
where  lunch  could  be  obtained. 

On  our  return  to  the  hotel  in  the  afternoon, 
we  lost  our  way  for  a  little  while,  but  it  did 
not  take  long  to  find  it  again. 

At  the  St.  Petersburg  Hotel,  where  we  were 
stopping,  the  dining-room  ceiling  was  made 
of  glass,  and  several  evenings  at  dinner  we 
thought  we  heard  it  raining.  Finally,  conclud- 
ing it  was  a  little  peculiar  that  it  should  rain 
every  day  just  at  that  time,  we  investigated 
and  discovered  that  the  water  was  from  an  ar- 
tificial fountain,  arranged  so  as  to  trickle  on 
the  glass  roof,  and  that  our  rain  was  counter- 
feit; but  it  was  pleasant  music  to  eat  by,  for 
all  that. 


70  A  GirVs  Journi'if. 

AVe  found  in  Paris  one  of  our  Nasliville 
young  ladies,  Miss  Nannie  Seawell,  who  had 
also  come  over  on  the  "Umbria"  with  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Eastman.  She  was  studying  art,  and 
was  very  much  interested  in  lier  work.  Sln' 
and  Mrs.  Trezevant  called  un  our  party  at 
the  hotel  once  or  twice. 

We  joined  one  of  Cook's  excursion  parties, 
and  rode  around  the  city  in  an  immense  wag- 
on or  stage,  large  enough  to  accommodate 
twenty-five  or  thirty  persons.  AYe  had  a  reg- 
ular rah't  de  ithice  to  point  out  objects  and 
buildings  of  note,  and  saw  so  much  to  inter- 
est and  entertain  us  that  it  would  be  impos- 
sible to  tell  the  half  of  it;  so  I  will  simply 
mention  a  few  of  the  most  prominent  places 
visited,  without  attempting  minute  descrip- 
tions of  any. 

First  we  passed  the  Place  and  Column 
Vendome.  This  old  column  w^as  made  of  can- 
non captured  in  war  by  the  French.  Then 
we  went  down  the  Eue  de  Rivoli,  a  fine  arcad- 
ed  street,  passed  the  gardens  of  the  Tuileries, 
to  the  mint,  and  into  the  beautiful  little  Sainte 


Paris.  71 

Cliapelle,  where  is  some  of  the  richest  and 
most  gorgeous  stained  glass  in  the  world. 

We  were  cod  ducted  up  into  the  Palace  of 
Justice,  and  to  the  Louvre  again,  where  we 
noticed  a  great  many  things  we  had  missed 
the  day  before,  among  them  the  statuary  and 
royal  apartments.  The  Venus  de  Milo  of 
course  attracts  a  great  deal  of  attention  here; 
but,  to  be  honest,  I  did  not  admire  the  face 
or  form  of  this  celebrated  statue  as  much  as  I 
did  some  of  the  others,  which  may  have  been 
the  result,  on  my  part,  of  an  uncultivated 
taste. 

Lunching  at  a  little  hotel  near  by,  we  had 
wine  for  the  first  time ;  but  I  do  not  think  the 
party,  as  a  whole,  enjoyed  it.  After  visiting 
St.  Sulpice  Church,  we  went  to  the  Luxem- 
bourg Gallery.  It  is  here  that  the  works  of 
modern  artists  are  shown,  and  some  of  us 
agreed  that  the  "new  masters"  had,  according 
to  our  judgment,  improved  in  many  respects 
upon  the  old  ones.  Next  we  were  shown  the 
Gobelin  tapestry,  and  even  the  gentlemen  of 
our  party  went  into  ecstasies  over  its  beauty. 


72  A  Gh-rs  Jounif'i/. 


It  was  all  done  by  hand,  from  tho  \vrong  or 
under  side,  and  could  not  l)o  distinguished 
from  the  most  exquisite  oil  paintings  unless 
examined  closely.  I  would  not  have  believed 
that  any  thing  made  of  threads  could  have 
been  so  beautiful.  None  of  the  Avork  is  for 
sale,  but  is  owned  by  the  Government,  and 
only  given  away  as  royal  presents. 

We  were  conducted  through  the  Pantheon, 
where  Victor  Hugo,  Voltaire,  and  other  great 
literary  men  and  unbelievers  are  buried,  vis- 
ited the  handsome  church  of  St.  Steven,  and 
then  went  (O  horrors!)  to  the  Morgue.  There 
were  two  bodies  exposed,  both  old  men.  The 
sight  was  so  revolting  that  we  left  as  quickly 
as  possible,  fervently  hoping  we  would  not 
dream  of  suicides. 

Our  sight-seeing  for  that  day  was  ended  by 
a  visit  to  the  grand  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame. 
It  would  be  folly  for  me  to  attempt  a  descrip- 
tion of  this  celebrated  building,  bo  I  will  pass 
it  by  without  comment,  as  a  "tale  that  has 
been  (often)  told." 

One  morning,  while  we  were  at  breakfast, 


Paris.  73 

a  colored  lady  and  gentleman  of  "African 
descent"  walked  into  tlie  dining-room  and 
placed  themselves  at  one  of  the  tables  near  us. 
They  remained  at  the  hotel  several  days,  and 
we  saw  them  often  on  the  streets,  driving 
around  in  a  stylish  turn-out,  behind  a  pair  of 
spirited  horses,  with  a  white  driver.  They 
were  from  the  Gold  Coast  of  Africa,  and  spoke 
both  English  and  French  fluently. 

Our  rooms  were  very  nicely  furnished,  with 
large  mirrors  over  the  mantels  and  in  the 
wardrobes,  pretty  lace  curtains  at  the  windows 
and  over  the  beds,  with  handsome  brass  clocks 
in  each  apartment;  but  alas!  no  soap.  Fort- 
unately, we  were  supplied,  so  it  did  not  matter. 

The  working-men  looked  very  queer  with 
long  blue  frocks  exactly  like  shirts,  worn  in 
the  place  of  coats,  while  the  women  sported 
peculiar-looking  bonnets  or  head-dresses;  the 
costumes  of  the  bonnes,  or  nurse-maids,  were 
quite  picturesque,  with  flowing  ribbons,  long 
cloaks,  and  snow-white  aprons. 

The  second  day's  excursion  carried  us  iSrst 
to  the  Church  of  the  Madeleine;  but  as  prep- 


74 


A  Girl '«  Journey. 


aratioijs  were  being  made  for  a  funeral  we 
could  not  enter  the  building. 

Tlie  Place  de  la  Concorde  and  the  Obelisk 
of  Luxor  were  interesting,  as  were  also  the 
Champs  Elysees  and  the  Palace  of  Industry. 


TOMB   OF   NAPOLEON. 

"VYe  viewed  the  panorama  of  the  battle  of 
Champigny,  and  then  passed  the  grandest 
triumphal  arch  in  the  world,  that  of  Napo- 
leon I. 

Entering  the  Palace  of  Trocadero,  we 
climbed  into  the  tower,  from  which  elevation 


Paris.  75 

we  had  a  very  fine  view  of  Paris,  making  the 
descent  on  the  largest  "lift,"  or  elevator,  in 
the  world — Edoux's. 

We  were  delighted  with  the  splendor  of 
Napoleon's  tomb,  and  went  through  Hotel  des 
Invalides,  which  has  accommodations  for  six 
thousand  soldiers,  though  occupied  by  only 
three  hundred  and  thirty  at  the  time  of  our 
visit. 

After  lunching  at  one  of  the  restaurants  in 
the  Palais  Royal,  we  visited  the  Church  St. 
Eustache,  saw  the  Halles  Centrales,  the  Bou- 
levard de  Sebastopol,  Place  and  Statue  de  la 
Republique,  and  halted  before  the  Column 
of  July,  which  marks  the  place  where  the  old 
Bastile,  of  so  many  terrible  associations,  once 
stood.  The  column  is  very  high,  and  on  top 
is  a  figure  of  Liberty. 

Walking  through  the  celebrated  cemetery, 
Fere  la  Chaise,  we  gathered  a  pebble  from 
the  grave  of  Abelard  and  Heloise,  and  some 
ivy-leaves  from  the  tombs  of  Marshal  Ney 
and  Racine. 

Passing  on  through  the  poorer  quarters  of 


76  A  Girl 's  Joiirmy. 

Paris,  we  reached  the  Park  of  Buttes  Chau- 
mont,  a  charming  place;  crossed  a  rather  shaky 
little  supensiou  bridge,  aud  had  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  lake.  As  we  drove  off  some  one  in 
the  cafe  played  on  the  piano,  "God  Save  the 
Queen,"  and  then  "Yankee  Doodle."  The 
latter  was  greeted  with  applause  from  the 
Americans,  while  some  of  us  would  not  have 
objected  to  a  rendition  of  "Dixie." 

We  also  passed  the  residence  of  President 
Grevy,  and  a  very  beautiful  place  it  was.  In 
front  of  all  the  cafe's,  out  on  the  pavements, 
were  small  tables  and  chairs,  where  in  pleas- 
ant weather  great  numbers  of  people  sat,  eat- 
ing ices,  drinking  wine  and  coffee,  while  en- 
gaged in  most  animated  conversation. 

Starting  out  on  Friday  to  take  our  third 
excursion,  we  found  a  five-in-hand  awaiting 
us,  and,  although  it  was  raining,  our  party 
numbered  fifteen.  After  passing  the  Church 
of  St.  Augustine,  we  drove  through  the  Bois 
de  Boulogne,  which  contains  seven  artificial 
lakes,  a  lovely  cascade,  and  several  very  fine 
avenues. 


Paris. 77 

Mary  Green  aud  I  were  the  only  ones  of  our 
seven  who  cared  to  walk  through  the  town  of 
St.  Cloud,  but  we  felt  fully  repaid  after  seeing 
the  park  and  ruins  of  the  old  palace  which 
was  occupied  by  the  French  kings  and  queens 
from  1500  to  1870,  when  it  was  destroyed  by 
the  Communists.  The  old  fountains  were  still 
beautiful,  and  we  brought  way  with  us  from 
beneath  the  trees  some  buckeyes,  "  for  luck." 
Meeting  the  carriage  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  park,  we  drove  to  the  Grand  Trianon,  built 
by  Louis  XIY.  for  Madame  de  Maintenon. 
Here  we  were  shown  the  private  apartments 
of  Napoleon  and  Josephine,  also  the  rooms 
prepared  for  Queen  Victoria  when  she  spent  a 
night  there.  They  were  all  very  magnificent, 
and  full  of  rare  and  costly  articles. 

Instead  of  taking  a  regular  lunch  we  de- 
cided to  purchase  some  fruit,  so  stepped  into 
a  shop  where  were  displayed  some  fine  pears. 
The  shop-keeper  could  not  speak  English,  and 
we  did  not  understand  French,  so  had  to  point 
and  gesticulate  very  energetically  before  we 
could  make   ourselves  understood.     Finally, 


78  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

though,  we  learned  the  price,  procured  the 
fruit,  paid  for  it,  and  left  in  triumph. 

In  the  afternoon  we  had  quite  a  pleasant 
trip  out  to  Versailles,  the  grandest  palace  in 
the  world.  The  grounds  were  superb,  and  we 
wandered  around  them  for  some  time  lost  in 
wonder  and  admiration.  There  were  ten  thou- 
sand statues  and  one  hundred  and  sixty-three 
fountains,  all  of  which  were  kept  in  perfect 
order.  It  costs  about  $200,000  for  the  fount- 
ains to  play  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  so,  as 
might  be  supposed,  there  is  not  more  than  one 
day  in  the  year  when  they  can  be  seen  in  all 
their  splendor.  The  royal  apartments  were 
magnificent  beyond  description. 

A  lace  spread  on  the  bed  of  Louis  XIV. 
was  made  by  the  ladies  of  France,  and  valued 
at  several  millions  of  francs.  (A  franc  is 
about  twenty  cents  of  our  money). 

The  grand  ball-room  was  gorgeous,  the  walls 
being  covered  with  immense  mirrors,  the  ceil- 
ing exquisitely  painted,  and  the  floor  waxed 
to  such  a  degree  that  walking  on  it  was  rather 
a  precarious  exercise. 


Paris.  79 

Oil  the  way  back  to  the  city  we  stopped  at 
the  famous  Sevres  porcelain-manufactory.  In 
the  show-rooms  was  a  quantity  of  liandsome 
ware,  among  other  things  several  vases  valued 
at  more  than  thirty  thousand  francs.  We  no- 
ticed copies  in  porcelain  of  a  great  many  of  the 
fine  paintings  we  had  seen  in  the  Louvre. 

On  our  return  Mary  G.  and  I  sat  on  the 
seat  with  the  driver,  and  felt  very  high  up  in 
the  world,  being  almost  on  a  level  with  the 
second  stories  of  the  houses.  As  we  passed 
along  the  children  on  the  pavement  cried  out: 
"  Yive  I'Amerique!  "  How  did  they  know  we 
were  Americans? 

We  afterward  went  into  the  Grand  Opera 
House,  the  most  magnificent  one  in  the  world, 
I  suppose.  Its  beauty  and  splendor  are  far 
beyond  my  powers  of  description,  and  must  be 
seen  to  be  appreciated. 

Saturday  we  ladies  spent  the  day  shopping 
at  the  Bon  Marche,  and  were  a  tired  company 
when  the  experience  was  over. 

Sunday  morning  there  was  service  at  the 
Madeleine,  and  such  performances  I  had  never 


80  .1  Girl  'x  Journey. 

seen  in  a  clmrcli  before!  The  priests  were 
dressed  like  circus -performers;  some  with 
white  gowns  and  red  skirts,  others  with  red 
gowns,  a  few  with  yellow  stripes  down  their 
backs,  and  still  others  all  in  white.  They 
marched  around,  swinging  incense,  chanting, 
and  carrying  liglited  candles.  Of  course  it 
was  all  strange  and  even  foolish  to  us,  but  the 
music  was  fine,  and  we  enjoyed  it  greatly. 

The  next  two  days  were  spent  shopping  in 
the  Magazin  du  Louvre,  the  shops  of  the 
Palais  Koyal,  at  the  Bon  Marclie,  up  and 
down  the  Eue  de  Pdvoli,  and  in  various  parts 
of  the  city.  We  found  a  great  many  pretty 
novelties  in  the  shops,  besides  meeting  with 
an  occasional  amusing  experience.  At  one 
place  we  attempted  to  trade  with  a  jolly-look- 
ing old  Frenchwoman  who  could  not  speak  a 
word  of  English,  but  w^ere  compelled  to  leave 
after  vainly  attempting  to  make  her  understand 
that  we  wanted  a  certain  pair  of  lorgnettes,  set 
a  certain  way,  and  to  be  ready  on  a  certain  day. 
She  finally  gave  it  up,  and  so  did  we,  and  left 
her  shaking  her  fat  sides  with  laughter. 


Paris. 


81 


I  felt  very  proud  one  day  at  dinner  when  I 
asked  the  waiter  in  French  for  some  sugar, 
and  he  actually  understood  and  brought  it  to 
me.  That  was  the  first  time  I  had  tried  to 
speak  the  language. 

Our  last  impressions  of  Paris  were  more 
pleasant  than  the  first,  as  the  weather  was 
more  propitious,  and  we  were  only  persuaded 
to  make  preparations  for  departure  by  the 
promise  of  a  return  and  a  longer  stay  next 

time. 

6 


MARSEILLES— MEDITERRANEAN  SEA. 

FROM  Paris  to  Marseilles  was  an  all-night's 
journey,  and  our  party  of  seven  found  the 
little  compartment  in  the  train  rather  crowd- 
ed, as  it  was  intended  for  only  eight  persons, 
while  our  hand  baggage  occupied  the  space  of 
at  least  two. 

After  we  had  been  in  the  coupe  several 
hours  Uncle  Robert,  who  had  been  asleep, 
awoke  suddenly,  suffering  from  thirst.  There 
was  no  water  within  reach,  and  he  determined, 
when  we  stopped  at  the  next  station,  to  get  out 
and  find  some.  We  all  begged  him  not  to  risk 
it,  as  the  train  only  waited  three  minutes,  and 
there  was  danger  of  his  being  left.  Some  of 
us  even  laid  violent  hands  on  the  skirts  of  his 
coat  to  keep  him  in;  but  all  to  no  purpose.  He 
was  frantic  from  thirst,  and  rushed  out,  de- 
manding of  the  Frenchmen  standing  by:  "  Wa- 
(82) 


Marseilles — Mediterranean  Sea.  83 

ter!  I  want  some  water,  I  must  have  some  wa- 
ter!" Tliey  had  no  idea  what  he  meant,  and 
the  case  was  becoming  desperate,  when,  fortu- 
nately, a  man  who  understood  English  passed 
by,  appreciated  the  state  of  affairs,  and  brought 
him  a  glass  of  water  just  before  the  train 
moved  off.  It  was  one  of  the  most  amusing 
scenes  I  ever  witnessed,  and  we  laughed  until 
we  were  tired  at  his  energetic  efforts  to  satisfy 
his  thirst. 

After  passing  through  some  beautiful  por- 
tions of  Southern  France  and  enjoying  the 
glimpses  of  fine  scenery  from  the  car  windows 
we  reached  the  hotel  at  Marseilles  at  11  A.M. 

As  soon  as  we  had  removed  the  dust  and 
dirt  of  travel,  taken  our  lunch,  and  rested  a 
little  we  entered  an  omnibus  and  rode  to  Notre 
Dame  Church,  which  stands  on  quite  an  emi- 
nence just  outside  the  city.  Our  vehicle  was 
drawn  by  three  horses  driven  tandem,  while  a 
little  boy  ran  along  to  whip  the  front  one  as 
we  ascended  the  hill. 

The  drivers  made  a  very  peculiar  sound 
when  they  wanted  their  horses  to  go  faster. 


84  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

and  we  girls  amused  ourselves  trying  to  imi- 
tate them. 

A  number  of  beggars  followed  us  all  the 
way  up,  pleading  most  pitoously  for  sous. 

After  admiring  the  catliedral,  which  is  a  line 
building,  but  interesting  principally  from  its 
historical  associations,  being  built,  it  is  said, 
on  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple  of  Diana,  we 
enjoyed  a  magnificent  view  of  the  city,  spread 
out  below  us,  and  reaching  down  to  the  shores 
of  the  ''beautiful  blue  Mediterranean." 

On  the  way  back  to  the  hotel  we  passed 
through  the  flower-market,  and  I  bought  a 
large  bunch  of  tuberoses  and  violets  for 
three  sous  (three  cents).  We  had  by  this  time 
learned  the  English  and  French  money  sys- 
tems thoroughly,  though  I  always  had  to 
translate  the  price  of  an  article  into  dollars 
and  cents  before  I  could  tell  its  real  value. 

We  spent  two  days  in  Marseilles;  but  dur- 
ing that  short  time  saw  much  that  interested 
and  entertained  us.  It  is  a  queer  old  city, 
with  a  strange  and  quaint  population.  The 
houses  nearly  all  have  tiled  roofs,  and  the 


Marseilles— Mediterranecm  Sea.  85 


people  seem  to  live  mostly  in  the  open  air. 
Many  of  the  streets  have  two  rows  of  trees 
down  the  middle,  with  a  shady  walk  between 
and  drives  on  either  side  for  vehicles. 

Our  hotel  was  one  of  the  finest  we  had  seen, 
the  dining-saloon  being  especially  handsome. 
We  feasted  on  delicipns  grapes,  and  tried 
fresh  figs,  but  one  taste  of  the  latter  was  suffi- 
cient for  us. 

On  Thursday  morning  all  the  baggage, 
steamer  chairs,  rugs,  etc.,  were  carried  down 
to  the  "Sindh,"  where  we  soon  followed,  en- 
tertaining ourselves  while  waiting  for  the  ves- 
sel to  start  by  watching  the  bustling,  hurrying 
crowd  on  the  wharf.  We  had  no  friends  to 
bid  good-by,  so  spent  the  time  observing  the 
farewells  of  the  other  passengers.  The  ship 
was  crowded,  every  berth  being  taken.  I  was 
surprised  to  see  so  many  people  on  their  way 

to  Egypt. 

We  soon  had  our  luggage  arranged  in  the 
state-rooms,  and  "went  to  housekeeping"  for 
the  voyage. 

The  wind  blew  quite  fiercely  all  day,  and 


86  A  GirVs  Journey. 

the  steamer  rolled  and  tossed  so  violently  that 
at  dinner  the  cases  for  the  dishes  had  to  be 
put  on  the  table. 

Susie  and  I  staid  up  on  the  deck  for  a  long 
time,  watching  Mr.  Dattari,  who  was  trying  to 
promenade  up  and  down  in  spite  of  the  pitch- 
ing of  the  vessel. 

We  had  as  yet  no  thought  of  being  seasick; 
however,  when  we  sat  down  to  the  table  a  little 
later  and  tried  to  eat,  the  commotion  became 
a  personal  matter,  and  we  beat  an  ignominious 
retreat  to  our  state-rooms.  How  old  Neptune 
did  tumble  us  about  that  night!  I  never  re- 
alized before  what  it  was  to  be  a  foot-ball. 

The  weather  next  morning  was  lovely,  and 
we  began  to  feel  that  there  was  yet  some  small 
pleasure  left  in  life.  There  were  a  number 
of  children  on  board,  and  it  seemed  strange 
to  hear  the  little  "  tots  "  jabbering  to  each  oth- 
er in  French.  None  of  the  servants  or  officers 
spoke  English,  and  I  do  not  know  how  we 
could  have  managed  without  our  courier  to  in- 
terpret for  us. 

At  night  we  entertained  ourselves  with  mu- 


Marseilles^Mediierranem  Sea.  87 


sic,  and  sometimes  quite  a  little  audience 
would  gather  round  aa  we  sung  one  o£  the 
familiar  home-tunes,  or  some  of  the  jolly  ne- 
aro  melodies.  The  latter  pleased  Mr.  Dattari 
especially,  as  he  had  never  heard  them  before; 
and  he  would  ask  again  and  again  for  "  Down 
by  the  Eiver  "  and  "  Reeling  on  a  Eock."  We 
did  not  dare  sing  "Home,  Sweet  Home,"  but 
came  out  strong  on  "America." 

There  were  two  Sisters  of  Charity  on  board, 
and  a  couple  of  priests  in  robes,  who  were  con- 
tinually walking  up  and  down  tlie  deck  telling 
their  beads  and  repeating  their  prayers. 

My  seat  at  the  table  was  next  to  the  leading 
opera  singer  at  Cairo.  She  tried  to  converse 
with  me,  but  as  I  could  not  understand  her 
French,  nor  she  my  English,  we  had  to  give 

it  up. 

On  Saturday  we  passed  through  the  Strait 
of  Messina,  and  had  a  good  view  of  Italy  on 
one  side  and  Sicily  on  the  other,  with  glimpses 
of  JEtna  and  Stromboli. 

One  of  the  passengers-Dr.  Pierce,  of  Bal- 
timore-was very  ill  for  some  days,  and  every- 


88  A  GirVs  Jouniey. 

body  thought  lie  was  going  to  die.  He  was 
not  only  seasick,  but  had  other  serious  trouble. 
Our  whole  hearts  went  out  in  sympathy  to 
him,  as  he  was  alone  so  far  away  from  home. 
Uncle  Eobert  did  all  he  could  for  him,  and  Ave 
were  rejoiced  at  last  to  hear  he  was  better. 

On  Sunday  there  was  no  service  in  the  sa- 
loon, so  the  time  was  spent  in  reading,  talking, 
and  singing. 

One  evening  the  sailors,  who  were  off  duty, 
got  up  what  they  called  a  caravan^  and  a  funny 
show  it  was.  First  came  a  curious  kind  of  an- 
imal ringing  a  bell;  then  an  Arab  on  a  rick- 
ety-looking camel;  next,  what  we  took  to  be  an 
ostrich,  and  after  it  a  giraffe.  An  accordion, 
a  drum,  a  bell,  and  a  pair  of  cymbals  fur- 
nished the  music,  while  the  beasts  themselves 
howled,  squealed,  roared,  shrieked,  growled, 
and  bellowed.  Altogether  it  was  a  most  amus- 
ing spectacle,  and  the  little  boys  on  board  were 
wild  with  delight. 

We  met  some  very  pleasant  English  people 
among  the  passengers,  and  the  last  day  of  the 
voyage  one  of  the  young  gentlemen  told  our 


Marseilles — Mediterranean  Sea.  89 


fortunes.  He  was  very  kind  in  his  prognosti- 
cations, and  gave  ns  no  cause  for  complaint  as 
to  what  the  future  might  have  in  store  for  us. 

Early  on  Tuesday  morning  we  awoke  and 
saw  through  our  port-holes  the  light-house  on 
the  coast  of  Egypt.  How  delighted  we  were 
to  see  land  again,  and  what  rapid  packing  we 
did  so  as  to  hurry  up  on  deck! 

The  trip  had  lasted  five  days  and  a  half,  and 
we  were  quite  willing  to  leave  the  steamer  and 
venture  forth  to  see  and  enjoy  the  sights  of 
this  strange  land. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

AFTER  passing  through  two  harbors,  the 
steamer  anchored  just  outside  of  Alexan- 
dria; and,  as  soon  as  the  police  had  come  on 
board,  up  came  the  Arabs  like  cats  over  the 
sides  of  the  vessel,  and  such  confusion  can- 
not be  imagined.  They  were  dressed  in  all 
sorts  of  costumes,  made  in  various  ways  and 
representing  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow. 
Their  trousers  were  so  loose  and  baggy  that 
they  looked  like  skirts,  and  on  their  heads 
were  either  gorgeous  turbans  or  the  regular 
red  fez  with  long  black  tassels.  They  climbed 
into  and  spread  over  the  ship  like  a  lot  of 
chattering  monkeys,  screaming,  quarreling, 
fighting,  pushing  one  another's  boats,  and 
each  trying  to  make  a  greater  racket  than 
his  neighbor.  It  was  by  far  the  most  excit- 
ing scene  I  ever  witnessed,  and  by  its  nov- 
(90) 


Alexandria.  91 


elty  aud  noise  made  an  impression  that  yet 
remains. 

Cook's  boat  was  in  waiting  with  our  boat- 
men and  dragoman,  and  they  rowed  us  ashore. 
We  were  glad  to  step  on  firm  ground  once 
more,  though  it  Avas  a  whole  day  before  we 
were  entirely  free  from  the  rolling  motion  of 
the  vessel. 

Our  party  was  conducted  in  open  carriages 
to  the  hotel,  the  Khedevial,  where  the  land- 
lady handed  to  Aunt  Anna  a  bunch  of  beau- 
tiful roses.  It  is  a  very  pretty  and  ancient 
custom,  of  theirs  to  present  flowers  to  a  guest 
on  entering  the  house.  We  divided  the  bou- 
quet, and  wore  it  to  breakfast.  Some  one 
on  the  steamer  had  remarked  that  we  were 
"approaching  a  country  where  every  thing 
smells  but  the  flowers."  The  first  part  of 
this  assertion  we  were  easily  induced  to  be- 
lieve before  reaching  the  hotel;  but  one  whiff 
of  those  delicious  roses  was  enough  to  dis- 
prove the  slur  contained  in  the  latter  part. 

Our  rooms  were  large,  airy,  and  cool,  with 
lofty  ceilings,  high  windows,  and  neat,  white 


92  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

beds,  each  canopied  with  dainty  lace  and 
snowy  curtains.  Our  windows  looked  out  on 
the  garden  or  yard  of  the  hotel;  and,  if  my 
arms  had  been  just  a  little  longer,  I  could 
have  gathered  ripe  dates  from  the  palm-trees 
nodding  their  heads  almost  within  the  room. 
There  were  bananas  hanging  on  the  trees,  and 
the  most  beautiful  jessamines,  roses,  and  other 
flowers  blooming  in  great  profusion  along 
the  walks. 

After  a  light  lunch  of  fruits,  and  a  refresh- 
ing nap,  we  dressed  and  went  down  to  the 
eight  o'clock  dinner,  which  was  well  served 
and  greatly  enjoyed.  It  was  here  that  I  tried 
for  the  first  time  my  favorite  fruit — dates, 
fresh  and  delicious,  just  gathered,  and  having 
rather  a  different  flavor  from  the  pressed  fruit 
which  we  get  in  America.  The  rest  of  the 
party  did  not  share  my  appreciation,  so 
passed  the  dish  over  to  me,  and  I  left  it  al- 
most empty.  The  last  course  was  Egyptian 
coffee — a  delightful  beverage,  served  in  tiny 
cups  not  much  larger  than  a  thimble. 

Just  after  the  fruit  was  put  on  the  table 


Alexandria.  93 


candles  were  brought  in  and  set  before  the 
gentlemen,  who  lighted  their  cigarettes  and 
puffed  away  very  comfortably  before  leaving 
their  seats.  The  waiters  were  Arabs  dressed 
in  the  native  costume;  and  there  were  so 
many  strange  things  to  see  and  get  accus- 
tomed to  about  the  hotel  that  we  were  kept 
continually  interested  and  entertained. 

After  dinner  Mrs.  Eastman  and  Aunt  Anna 
took  a  walk,  bringing  back  with  them  some 
Egyptian  candy,  which  was  very  good,  tasting 
something  like  our  taffy,  but  covered  over 
with  small  seeds  or  nuts,  which  had  a  strange 
but  pleasant  flavor. 

While  in  the  drawing-room  we  heard  quite 
a  commotion  out  on  the  street.  On  going  to 
the  door  we  found  it  was  caused  by  a  proces- 
sion of  pilgrims  returning  from  Mecca.  They 
were  women,  and  therefore  rode  in  closed 
carriages.  A  band  was  playing,  and  a  great 
many  of  the  Arabs  were  carrying  torches,  and 
fairly  making  night  hideous  with  their  howl- 
ing and  shrieking. 

Susie  and  I  found  a  good  piano,  and  spent 


94  A  GirVs  Journey. 


a  delightful  evening  practicing  duets,  and 
some  of  our  old  pieces — that  is,  as  many  as  we 
could  remember  without  notes.  We  discov- 
ered that  Mr.  Dattari  was  quite  a  musician, 
and  his  playing  contributed  much  to  the 
pleasure  of  the  evenings.  He  was  also  very  in- 
telligent, conversed  well,  and  was  full  of  fun, 
exerting  himself  in  every  possible  way  to  add 
to  our  enjoyment. 

After  breakfast  next  morning  we  drove  in 
open  carriages  out  to  Pompey's  Pillar.  Our 
courier  had  intended  going  Avith  us,  for  al- 
though he  had  been  in  Alexandria  frequently 
— and  in  fact  lived  there  for  awhile — he  had 
never  visited  this  celebrated  old  monument, 
which  w^as  such  a  wonder  to  us.  Business 
prevented  his  going  even  this  time,  so  we  went 
under  the  care  of  the  dragoman,  Calipha, 
whose  duty  it  was  to  conduct  us  about  and 
act  as  regular  guide. 

The  sun  was  very  hot,  but  the  Arabs  were 
lying  around  on  the  pavements,  streets,  any- 
where and  everywhere,  fast  asleep,  and  evi- 
dently enjoying  the  heat. 


Alexandria,  95 


Pompey's  Pillar  was  a  rough-looking  old 
column  of  some  kind  of  brownish-gray  gran- 
ite. We  brought  away  several  pieces  of  stone 
like  the  material  of  the  monument,  which  we 
bought  of  the  Arabs. 

The  beggars  were  so  numerous  and  annoy- 
ing that  our  dragoman  had  to  beat  them  back 
with  a  stick,  as  they  really  seemed  about  to 
press  up  and  catch  hold  of  us  in  their  earnest 
demands  for  money.  A  little  baby  in  its 
mother's  arms  that  could  only  speak  one  word 
would  hold  out  its  tiny  hand  and  piteously 
wail:  ''Backsheesh!'' 

Next  we  visited  a  Mohammedan  cemetery, 
where  the  bodies  were  all  buried  in  a  stand- 
ing position,  with  their  faces  toward  the  east. 
The  monuments  were  very  peculiar,  and  al- 
together it  was  a  dreary,  desolate  place. 

After  driving  through  the  grounds  of  the 
khedive's  palace  we  walked  through  several 
of  the  bazaars,  and  Mr.  Eastman  bought  him 
a  fez,  which  was  pronounced  very  becoming. 

After  lunch  and  a  good  rest  we  took  a  drive 
out  to  the  garden  of  a  rich  Greek  named  An- 


96  A  Girl's  Journey. 

toniacles,  where  a  great  many  beautiful  flow- 
ers and  shrubs  we  had  never  seen  before  were 
kept  fresh  and  green  by  means  of  irrigation. 
We  met  the  owner  of  the  garden  taking  a  walk; 
our  dragoman  introduced  us,  and  through  his 
interpretation  we  had  quite  a  pleasant  little 
chat.  '" 

It  was  cool  and  bracing  in  Alexandria  after 
sundown,  and  we  enjoyed  very  much  the  drive 
along  the  canal  on  our  return  to  the  city. 

Just  at  six  o'clock  all  true  Mohammedans 
say  their  prayers,  and  we  saw  a  man  out  on 
the  road  drop  down  on  his  knees  with  his  face 
toward  Mecca,  and  go  through  with  his  devo- 
tions. 

Having  about  exhausted  the  sights  of  this 
our  first  Oriental  city,  we  packed  the  valises 
and  made  ready  to  leave,  with  the  unanimous 
conclusion  that  this  part  of  our  trip  was  al- 
most as  strange  and  wonderful  as  being  trans- 
ported bodily  into  the  midst  of  some  marvel- 
ous scene  of  the  "Arabian  Nights." 


CAIRO— PYRAMIDS. 

FEOM  Alexandria  to  Cairo  was  a  hot,  disa- 
greeable trip.  The  dust  poured  in  upon  us; 
our  hair  and  clothes  soon  changed  color,  and 
at  several  stations  we  were  obliged  to  get  out 
of  the  car  and  use  the  clothes-brush  most  en- 
ergetically. 

We  lunched  on  the  train,  and  reached  our 
destination  at  about  two  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, realizing  then  as  we  had  never  before 
the  blessings  of  a  good  bath  and  plenty  of  ice- 
water,  especially  when  we  remembered  that  it 
was  fresh  from  the  mysterious  Nile. 

The  scene  at  the  station  was  quite  an  excit- 
ing one,  as  we  elbowed  our  way  through  a 
crowd  of  noisy  Arabs.  There  were  several 
men — policemen,  evidently — carrying  whips, 
which  they  did  not  hesitate  to  use  on  the  rab- 
ble. 

7 


A  G'nVs  Jotinicij. 


We  stopped  at  Sheplieard's  Hotel,  where 
every  thing  was  delightfully  arranged,  the 
broad  stone  veranda  in  front  being  especially 
pleasant,  as  from  it  could  be  seen  the  never- 
ending  panorama  of  the  streets,  on  which 
something  novel  and  interesting  was  always 
going  on. 

After  dinner  we  went  for  a  walk,  and  such 
queer  sights  and  sounds  as  greeted  us  on  every 
side!  At  one  place  we  passed  a  hall  where  a 
man  was  telling  stories  to  a  company  of  peo- 
ple, as  in  the  ^'Arabian  Nights."  I  think  we 
would  have  stopped  to  listen  if  there  had  been 
the  least  chance  of  understanding  what  Avas 
said. 

We  found  at  the  hotel  two  of  our  steamer 
acquaintances,  Sir  Edward  and  Lady  Lech- 
mere,  an  English  baronet  and  his  wife,  who 
were  in  Egypt  looking  after  a  hospital  for  the 
blind,  which  they  had  established. 

The  first  thing  next  morning  was  a  visit  to 
the  old  Mosque  of  Cairo.  It  was  the  dirtiest, 
most  dilapidated  building  imaginable,  but  we 
were  not  permitted  to  enter  until  we  had  put 


Cairo — P(jrami(h.  99 

on  straw  sandals  })rovided  for  the  purpose,  as 
the  sole  of  the  shoe  is  considered  unclean. 

In  spite  of  the  sacredness  of  the  place  it 
was  very  amusing  to  see  our  efforts  to  walk  in 
these  slippers.  Mine  were  large  enough  for  a 
grown  man,  and  I  could  not  step  very  high 
without  losing  one,  so  was  compelled  to  slide 
most  of  the  time. 

Next  we  visited  the  Grand  Mosque,  erected 
by  Mehemet  Ali,  who  is  buried  in  the  build- 
ing. It  was  very  handsome,  the  walls  l>eing 
lined  with  pure  alabaster,  the  ceiling  hung 
with  crystal  lamps  burning  richly-scented  oil, 
and  the  floor  spread  with  gorgeous  Persian 
rugs.  A  number  of  devotees  were  there  bow- 
ing their  heads  to  the  ground,  and  going 
through  various  forms  required  by  their  mode 
of  worship.  We  bought,  as  souvenirs,  some 
little  pieces  of  alabaster  like  the  material  of 
the  inside  walls. 

Then  we  went  through  old  Cairo,  where 
most  of  the  Arabs  live.  Comj^aratively  speak- 
ing, I  had  never  seen  dirt,  poverty,  and  wretch- 
edness before. 


100  A  GirVs  Journeii. 

We  had  quite  a  picturesque-looking  drago- 
roan  to  conduct  us  around.  His  name  was 
Abrahim,  and  he  dressecl  in  gorgeous  Turkish 
suits,  s])orting  a  different  one  every  day;  long, 
^^^Q^y  trousers  of  some  colored  silk  material, 
a  gay  little  embroidered  jacket,  the  regulation 
fez,  soft  slippers  turned  up  at  the  toes,  and 
over  all,  which  eclipsed  all,  an  ordinary  Euro- 
pean overcoat! 

In  the  afternoon  we  went  to  see  the  "  howl- 
ing dervishes."  I  never  before  heard  such  a 
dreadful  din.  They  ranted  and  shrieked,  sway- 
ing their  bodies  back  and  forth,  gradually  in- 
creasing the  motion  until  exhausted.  A  cage 
of  wild  beasts  could  not  have  excelled  them  in 
vocal  effort.  Strange  that  any  human  being 
could  imagine  such  performances  to  be  divine 
worship! 

Before  entering  the  room  Abrahim  warned 
us  not  even  to  smile,  as  it  w^ould  offend  them 
greatly;  and  of  course  we  were  careful.  One 
man  played  on  a  thundering  sort  of  tambour- 
ine, while  all  the  rest— about  thirty — howled 
and  danced.     At  the  upper  windows  could  be 


Cairo — Pyramids,  101 

seen  the  poor  women  peeping  in — not  being 
allowed  to  come  inside  during  the  service. 

Leaving  these  lunatics,  we  crossed  over  the 
Nile  in  a  little  boat  to  the  Island  of  Ehoda, 
;ind  were  shown  the  place  where  Moses  was 
found  in  the  bulrushes.  We  also  went  into  a 
Coptic  Church,  said  to  have  been  built  on  the 
spot  where  the  Holy  Family  lived  while  in 
Egypt. 

From  the  Citadel  we  had  a  fine  view  of 
Cairo,  and  in  the  distance  ten  of  the  pyramids 
and  the  river  Nile. 

We  drove  for  some  time  along  the  fashion- 
able promenade,  bitt  as  most  of  the  )iohs  had 
gone  to  the  races  only  a  few  of  them  were  vis- 
ible. 

We  visited  an  Arabic  school  Avliere  the  pu- 
pils sat  round  on  the  floor,  all  jabbering  at  the 
same  time,  while  the  old,  hliiul  teacher  heard 
each  one  spell  in  turn.  They  were  dirty  lit- 
tle fellows,  dressed  in  a  single  garment,  but 
seemed  to  be  as  full  of  mischief  as  the  better- 
clad  boys  in  our  own  American  schools.  One 
bright  little  urchin  with  big  black  eyes  handed 


(102) 


Cairo — Pijramids.  103 

us  a  spelling-book  and  then  read  for  us  in 
Arabic.  As  Ave  passed  out  through  the  hall, 
which  was  a  sort  of  cellar — the  school-room 
being  a  basement-room — we  were  assailed  on 
all  sides  by  the  small  beggars  shouting,  *' Back- 
sheesh, backsJieesh ! "  a  cry  that  we  were  des- 
tined to  hear  many  times  before  leaving  this 
land  of  ruins,  idleness,  and  idlers. 

Saturday  had  been  selected  for  our  trip  to 
the  Pyramids,  so  early  in  the  morning  we  w^ere 
ready  and  eager  to  start.  We  four  young  peo- 
ple were  in  one  carriage,  with  the  married 
couples  in  another,  and  the  drive  was  delight- 
ful. The  road  w^as  cool  and  shady,  with  trees 
meeting  across  nearly  ail  the  way,  only  the 
wind  was  a  little  chilly. 

Some  English  troops  were  to  go  into  camp 
near  the  Pyramids,  and  we  overtook  thou- 
sands of  them  (for  they  moved  very  slowly) 
all  marching  in  the  same  direction  as  our  party. 
There  were  infantrj^  and  cavalry,  also  artillery 
on  the  backs  of  camels.  We  would  have  had 
trouble  in  passing  them  if  it  had  not  been  for 
the  kindness  of  Captain  Lewis,  of  the  "Buffs," 


104  A  GirVs  Journey. 

oue  of  our  fellow-passengers  on  the  "  Sindb," 
who  sent  a  runner  ahead  and  had  the  way 
cleared  for  us;  otherwise  we  would  have  been 
obliged  to  turn  back  and  postpone  the  trip 
until  some  other  day. 

The  great  stone  masses  were  in  full  view 
long  before  we  came  to  them,  and  we  girls 
were  incredulous  when  Mr.  Dattari  informed 
us  that  there  was  still  an  hour's  ride  before 
reaching  the  base.  It  seemed  only  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  away.  We  found,  however,  that 
he  was  correct. 

I  was  much  surprised,  upon  a  near  approach, 
to  find  the  pyramids  all  rough  and  jagged; 
great  rock  steps,  four  or  five  feet  high,  and 
the  surface  broken  and  rugged  in  many  places. 

All  of  us  except  Uncle  Eobert  and  Aunt 
Anna  ascended  as  far  as  the  first  opening,  and 
it  took  two  Arabs  to  push  and  one  to  pull  each 
of  us  up. 

We  girls  were  wild  to  climb  to  the  top,  as  we 
had  gotten  along  so  nicely  thus  far;  but  the 
wiser  heads  thought  it  not  prudent,  so  we  re- 
luctantly came  down.     However,  we  had  been 


Cairo— Pyramids. 


105 


np  high  enough  to  feel  the  "inspiration  of  e\. 
evation  "  Mr.  Dattari  went  to  the  top  in  oar 
stead,  and  waved  his  handkerchief  from  the 
summit, -looking  like  a  tiny  pigmy  "flourish- 
ing a  postage-stamp." 

Think  of  the  base  of  the  great  Cheops  cov- 
ering thhieen  acres,  with  height  correspond- 
ing, and  you  can  form  some  idea  of  its  im- 
mense size. 


THE  SPHISX. 

We  walked  over  to  the  Sphinx,  and  went 
down  into  a  temple  containing  some  huge 
blocks  of  granite.     The  sand  was  quite  tire- 


106  A  GlrVs  Journey. 

some  to  wade  througli,  aud  we  wei'e  hot  aud 
tired  by  the  time  the  luncliing- place  was 
reached. 

Mrs.  Eastman  rode  on  a  donkey,,and  was 
escorted  by  Dr.  Mahmoud,  of  the  tribe  of  Bed- 
ouins who  live  about  the  Pyramids,  while  the 
sheik  gravely  escorted  Aunt  Anna.  Mr.  Dat- 
tari  came  to  our  assistance  when  needed,  and 
the  gentlemen  took  care  of  themselves. 

AYe  sat  quite  awed  for  some  time  beneath 
the  quiet  gaze  of  the  grand  aud  silent  Sphinx. 
I  cannot  imagine  any  thing  more  majestic  than 
the  solemn  expression  of  that  stony  face,  the 
eyes  looking  out  into  space,  calm  and  patient, 
watching  still  as  they  have  been  watching  for 
so  many  centuries  past. 

Workmen  had  been  excavating  around  the 
lower  j)art  of  the  Sphinx,  and  much  more  of 
it  was  visible  than  is  usually  shown  in  the  pict- 
ures— the  paws,  breast,  and  shoulders  being 
above  ground.  There  is  space  enough  between 
the  forefeet  to  build  a  temple,  while  the  body 
stretches  out  to  the  length  of  more  than  one 
hundred  and  forty  feet. 


Cairo — Pyramids,  107 

We  luiiclied  in  a  little  building  erected  for 
the  use  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  when  he  visited 
there.  Freshly-made  Arabic  coffee,  cold  meats, 
rolls,  fruits,  nuts,  and  all  sorts  of  dainties  were 
served,  besides  a  quantity  of  dates  which  had 
been  kindly  provided  for  me. 

In  the  afternoon  we  returned  to  Cairo,  and 
visited  the  Boulack  Museum,  Avhere  are  lots 
of  old  things  dug  up  from  the  ruius — such  as 
mummies,  statues,  coins,  and  curios  of  various 
kinds.  We  saw  the  mummy  of  Bameses  11. , 
which  had  been  recently  excavated. 

Then  we  went  down  to  the  river  to  see  a  da- 
habeah,  and  boarded  one  of  Cook's  new  Nile 
steamers — a  very  neat,  trim  little  craft. 

Mr.  Dattari  showed  us  a  boat  that  was 
wrecked  during  the  expedition  under  Chinese 
Gordon,  he  being  on  board  at  the  time. 

That  evening  we  had  some  "Turkish  de- 
light," a  kind  of  candy  that  tasted  something 
like  our  marsli  mallow  drops;  also  a  large 
bunch  of  superb  roses,  and  quantities  of  white 
star  jessamine  of  delicious  fragrance. 

You  will  be  surprised  to  hear  that  the  best 


108  A  GirVs  Journey. 


fare  we  found  auywhere  and  the  most  beauti- 
fully served  was  right  there  in  Cairo.  The 
waiters  dressed  in  rich  Oriental  costumes;  the 
cooking  was  French,  and  some  of  the  dishes 
so  artistically  ornamented  that  it  seemed  a 
pity  to  cut  into  them. 

The  water  was  kept  cool  in  long-necked 
earthen  jars,  and  tasted  better  than  any  we 
had  drank  elsewhere;  in  fact,  every  thing  was 
charmingly  arranged,  and  nothing  left  undone 
that  would  contribute  to  the  comfort  and  con- 
venience of  the  guests. 


HELIOPOLIS— CAIRO. 

AS  there  was  no  service  to  attend  on  Sunday, 
we  drove  out  to  Heliopolis,  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Temple  of  the  Sun,  and  the  place 
where  Moses  was  educated. 

We  assembled  at  the  foot  of  the  only  re- 
maining obelisk,  and  Uncle  Robert  gave  a  short 
but  very  instructive  lecture  on  the  history  of 
the  place.  From  here  the  "Needle"  was  sent 
that  is  now  in  Central  Park,  New  York;  also 
those  in  London,  Paris,  Berlin,  and  Ptome. 

We  stopped  at  the  Virgin's  Tree,  beneath 
the  shade  of  which  the  Holy  Family  is  said  to 
have  rested  on  their  journey  to  Egypt. 

They  gave  us  some  very  pretty  bunches  of 
flowers  from  the  little  garden  near  by,  and  we 
had -quite  a  lively  time  hopping  out  of  the 
way  of  the  small  lizards,  which  were  running 
around  in  the  sun  over  the  gravel  walks. 

ri09^ 


110  A  Girl 's  Journcij. 

We  waded  tlirougli  the  sand  to  an  ostrich- 
farm,  and  found  it  ([uite  an  interesting  place. 
There  were  ostriches  of  all  sizes,  and  the  eggs 
were  as  large  as  our  heads.  We  saw  some  of 
the  feathers  after  they  had  been  dressed,  also 
those  in  their  natural  state  on  the  bird.  From 
a  little  observatory  on  the  farm  we  could  look 
far  out  across  the  desert  and  see  the  place 
where  the  children  of  Israel  passed  on  their 
journey  to  the  "promised  land." 

Returning  to  the  hotel,  in  the  afternoon  we 
saw  the  khedive  pass  by.  I  brought  my 
glasses  to  bear  upon  him,  and  had  a  good  look 
at  his  face.  His  complexion  was  quite  dark, 
and  he  was  dressed  in  a  black  suit  with  red 
fez,  and  rode  in  an  open  carriage  attended  by 
sixteen  horse-guards.  In  front  of  the  vehicle 
ran  the  two  sais^  who  always  precede  the  car- 
riages of  ricli  and  titled  people.  They  were 
picturesque-looking  Arabs,  and  carried  short 
wands  in  their  hands.  They  ran  along  in 
front  of  the  fleet  Arabian  horses  as  lightly 
and  easily  as  if  they  had  wings.     , 

Mr.  Dattari  gave  each  of  us  a  little  curiosity 


HeliopoUs — Cairo.  Ill 

that  he  had  obtained  on  one  of  his  trips  up  the 
Nile.  Mine  was  a  ring  of  some  dark-looking 
metal,  with  a  blue  stone  in  it,  which  came  off 
the  finger  of  a  real  mummy.  The  others  were 
curious  little  idols  and  images. 

Next  day  we  went  shoi^ping  in  the  bazaars. 
The  dragoman  went  with  us  to  do  the  bargain- 
ing, and  sometimes  I  was  really  afraid  he  and 
the  sliop-keeper  would  come  to  blows  in  their 
excitement  and  eagerness  to  jew  each  other. 

At  the  scent-bazaar  we  bought  some  attar 
of  roses,  and  then  looked  at  silks,  carpets,  slip- 
pers, brass,  and  many  beautiful  things.  The 
dragoman  never  allowed  us  to  pay  more  than 
half  the  price  first  asked  for  an  article,  as  the 
salesman  invariably  left  at  least  that  much 
margin  for  falling. 

Some  of  the  streets,  or  passages,  were  very 
narrow,  and  the  shops  so  small  that  the  dealer 
could  sit  in  the  middle  of  the  floor  and  r6ach 
most  of  his  goods  which  were  piled  around  on 
the  shelves. 

It  seemed  so  queer  to  go  shopping  and  do 
our  trading  sitting  on  the  counter  swinging 


ai2) 


Heliopolis — Cairo,  113 

our  feet  over  into  the  street;  but  that  was 
really  the  way  we  did,  as  the  floor  of  the  shop 
was  the  only  counter  and  situated  immediately 
on  the  thoroughfares. 

Very  often  we  had  to  press  close  up  against 
the  wall  in  order  to  let  the  clumsy  camels  pass 
by,  and  a  great  many  times  actually  caught 
hold  of  the  sleepy  little  donkeys  and  pushed 
them  out  of  our  way. 

After  lunch  we  had  a  juggler  perform  for  us 
on  the  veranda.  He  was  very  clever,  and  did 
many  wonderful  tricks.  Next  we  visited  the 
China-bazaar,  and  the  shop-keeper  served  us 
with  Arabic  coffee  between  the  bargains. 

On  the  way  back  we  stopped  at  the  garden 
of  Esbikiah,  heard  some  queer  Egyptian  mu- 
sic, and  saw  a  banyan-tree,  which  was  a  small 
forest  in  itself,  and  looked  much  as  represent- 
ed in  pictures  of  it  we  had  seen. 

That  night  all  of  us  except  Uncle  Eobert 
and  Aunt  Anna  went  out  on  a  regular  "lark" 
—  a  donkey-ride  by  moonlight — and  what  a 
jolly  time  we  did  have!  It  was  not  quite  as 
awe-inspiring  an  experience  as  the  sight  of  the 
8 


114  A  GirVs  Jonrneij. 

Spliiux  or  Pyramids,  but  was  equally  enjoya- 
ble, combiuiug  as  it  did  the  ludicrous  and  the 
serious,  the  latter  quality  being  confined  exclu- 
sively to  the  donkeys.  My  donkey  was  the 
smallest  of  the  number,  but  what  he  lacked  in 
size  he  made  up  in  spirit  and  pluck,  managing 
to  keep  to  the  front  most  of  tire  time. 

Each  lady  had  a  little  donkey-boy  to  run 
along  and  heat,  at  times  assisting  the  progress  of 
his  steed  by  a  vigorous  twist  of  the  tail.  The 
bridles  were  covered  with  bangles,  or  bells,  and 
our  cavalcade  kept  up  a  merry  jingling  as  we 
dashed  along  the  quiet  road  by  the  side  of  the 
Nile,  with  the  moon  peeping  at  us  through  the 
tall,  shadowy  palm-trees,  its  light  beautifully 
reflected  from  the  shining  water  below. 

My  donkey's  name  was  *' Yankee  Doodle," 
while  the  others  of  the  party  gloried  in  the  ap- 
pellations of  "Mrs.  Langtry,"  "The  Flying 
Dutchman,"  "Maccaroni,"  "Abraham  Lin- 
coln," "Blondin,"  "  The  Gladiator,"  and  "Just 
Like  Me."  The  last  was  a  gay  little  white  fel- 
low ridden  by  our  courier. 

We  returned  to  the  city  in  fine  style,  aiid 


HelioiMs— Cairo.  115 


my  doukey-boy  was  so  ambitious  to  excel  in 
speed  that  by  vigorous  twists,  thumps,  and 
punches  he  hurried  his  steed  into  a  gallop, 
and,  though  sure  he  was  running  away,  I  held 
on  with  both  hands  and  enjoyed  it  until  we 
brought  up  with  a  flourish  on  the  pavement 
in  front  of  the  hotel,  far  ahead  of  the  rest,  out 
of  breath,  but  supremely  happy. 

The  next  day  we  went  shopping  again,  and 
purchased  as  souvenirs  sandal-wood  boxes, 
scented  fans,  gayly  worked  tire-screens,  and 
bottles  of  scent. 

It  was  in  Cairo  at  Shepheard's  Hotel  that 
we  made  the  acquaintance  of  "Mops,"  a  chub- 
by little  English  pug-dog,  whose  chief  accom- 
plishment was  sitting  up  on  his  hind  legs  and 
holding  a  lighted  cigar  in  his  mouth.  I  do 
not  think  I  ever  saw  a  dog  with  so  much  flesh. 
He  was  almost  as  broad  as  long,  and  was  a 
source  of  much  amusement  to  the  guests. 

Our  packing  was  done  with  regret,  for  we 
were  reluctant  to  leave  "  Grand  Cairo; "  but  it 
was  necessary  to  get  back  to  Alexandria  in 
time  to  catch  the  steamer  for  Jaffa. 


©HAPTEt^  ;xi!. 

STEAMER  '•  RAHAMANIER  "—JAFFA— JERUSALEM. 

WE  all  rather  dreaded  going  on  the  water 
again;  but  there  was  nothing  else  to  be 
done,  so  we  left  Alexandria  Wednesday  morn- 
ing for  the  steamer.  The  vessel  was  an  Egyp- 
tian one,  the  "  Rahamanier,"  but  every  thing 
was  clean  and  comfortable.  There  were  only 
two  first-class  passengers  besides  our  party, 
consequently  we  had  quite  a  sociable  time  in 
the  cabin.  The  ladies  were  a  little  seasick,  but 
as  the  voyage  was  to  be  short  we  made  up  our 
minds  to  endure  it  patiently  "for  a  season." 

Mr.  Dattari  helped  us  to  pass  away  much 
of  the  time  very  pleasantly,  by  telli-ng  some  of 
his  experiences  and  adventures  while  associ- 
ated with  Gordon,  up  the  Soudan.  He  was 
an  ardent  admirer  of  the  brave  and  gallant 
officer,  and  related  many  incidents  connected 

witn  him  on  that  memorable  expedition. 
(116) 


The  ''Rahamank>r''—Jatf'((~-Jernmli'iu.  117 

Most  of  the  time  we  were  in  sight  of  land, 
and  did  not  suffer  in  any  great  degree  from 
that  lonely  feeling  of  being  "completely  at 
sea." 

The  first  morning  we  went  on  deck  it  was 
raining,  something  unusual  in  that  climate. 
At  eleven  o'clock  Jaffa  was  sighted,  but  the 
anchor  was  not  cast  until  one. 

The  ship  was  riding  the  waves  some  dis- 
tance out  from  shore,  not  being  able  to  ap- 
proach nearer  on  account  of  the  dangerous 
rocks  in  the  harbor.  It  was  raining  steadily 
as  we  descended  the  steps  at  the  side  of  the 
vessel,  where,  waiting  until  a  wave  lifted  the 
row-boat  in  position,  each  of  us  in  turn  was 
seized  by  two  Arabs  and  dropped  into  it, 
where  we  sat  serious  and  silent,  holding  on 
with  a  grip  like  that  of  grim  death  itself. 

The  small  craft  was  almost  upset  by  every 
billow  that  struck  it,  and  some  of  the  ladies 
were  badly  frightened,  and  screamed  lustily 
every  time  a  big  wave  washed  overboard. 
Strange  to  say,  I  was  not  at  all  scared,  as  I 
thought  that  was  the  natural-  way  to  land  at 


118  .1  G'nd^s  Journeij. 


Jaffa,  and  did  not  realize  that  this  was  es- 
pecially dangerous  weather.  The  little  boat 
carried  us  as  close  to  the  sliore  as  the  rocks 
would  allow,  and  here  another  mode  of  trans- 
portation was  i)rovided— this  time  on  the 
shoulders  of  stalwart  Arabs.  Two  of  them 
conveyed  Aunt  Anna  safely  over,  another 
shouldered  Uncle  Eobert,  and  while  watch- 
ing them  I  was  suddenly  seized  by  a  big 
fellow,  who  walked  off  through  the  water 
with  me,  evidently  minding  my  weight  little 
more  than  that  of  a  baby.  I  had  to  hold  on 
tight,  though,  for  I  did  not  care  to  be  dropped 
into  the  Mediterranean  just  then.  The  rest 
of  the  party  were  conveyed  in  like  manner, 
while  the  Ajabs  brought  the  baggage,  and 
we  were  all  landed  safely,  with  brand-new  ex- 
periences to  laugh  at,  or  shudder  over,  ac- 
cording  to  the  constitution  of  the  individual, 
and  with  the  conviction  that  the  oldest  harbor 
in  the  world  must  certainly  be  the  worst 

We  walked  through  more  muddy  little 
streets  and  alleys,  saw  more  dirt,  smelled  more 
smells,  than   ever   before  in  our  lives,  and 


The  ^^Rahamanier'" — Jaffa — Jerusalem.  119 

finally  reached  the  carriages,  wet  and  bedrag- 
gled, but  glad  to  step  on  something  dry  and 
firm  once  more. 

Our  hotel  was  the  "Jerusalem,"  and  quite 
a  primitive  sort  of  place  it  was.  On  the  read- 
ing-table was  a  newspaper  of  1870,  and  some 
books  and  periodicals  about  as  ancient.  We 
enjoyed  the  dinner,  though,  having  fasted 
since  morning,  and  being  thoroughly  pre- 
pared to  appreciate  any  thing  in  the  shape  of 
food. 

We  had  with  us  a  young  Scotchman,  Mr. 
Carmichael,  one  of  Cook's  ship-builders.  He 
had  been  a  fellow-passenger  on  the  "  Rahama- 
nier,"  and  we  learned  he  was  to  accompany  our 
party  to  Jerusalem  next  morning. 

We  did  not  have  much  chance  to  explore 
Jaffa  that  afternoon,  for,  besides  being  very 
tired,  we  found  a  package  of  mail  awaiting  us, 
which  was  more  interesting  just  then  than 
any  thing  else  could  possibly  have  been. 

I  am  sure  you  will  be  sorry  to  learn  that, 
after  all  our  excitement  and  fatigue,  we  got 
very  little  sleep  that  night;  I  fairly  burn  when 


120  4  GirVs  Journey. 

I  think  of  the  reason,  but  as  it  is  an  unpleas- 
ant subject  I  leave  it  to  your  imagination. 

Our  uneasy  slumbers  were  broken  into  next 
morning  at  the  unearthly  hour  of  three 
o'clock,  as  it  was  necessary  to  make  a  very 
early  start  in  order  to  reach  Jerusalem  before 
late  in  the  night.  It  was  dark,  cool,  pouring 
down  rain,  and  dreadfully  muddy ;  so  w^e  were 
glad  to  find  that  we  were  to  make  the  journey 
in  close  carriages.  Our  party  numbered  nine 
besides  the  drivers,  and  there  were  three 
horses  to  each  vehicle.  The  baggage  w^as  to 
follow  on  donkeys. 

When  w^e  had  ridden  a  short  distance  out  of 
the  town,  the  carriage  in  front  stuck  fast  in 
the  mud,  and  the  horses  either  Avould  not  or 
could  not  pull  it  out;  so  w^e  "svaited  there  in 
the  dark  and  rain  wdiile  the  horses  were 
changed  and  the  vehicle  hauled  out  of  the 
mire.  The  procession  started  again,  and  we 
managed  very  well  until  we  reached  a  hill,  and 
then  both  conveyances  stuck,  and  all  of  us  had 
to  get  out  and  walk  to  the  top  through  the 
mud.     That    performance    had    to    be    gone 


Tlic  '^Jialiamanicr'" — JcJ/'a — Jenisaleni.  121 

through  with  every  time  we  came  to  a  very 
steep  place  during  the  day.  "We  hmched  at 
a  little  caravansary  on  the  way,  and  also  rest- 
ed for  awhile  at  Eamleh,  passed  through  the 
valley  of  Sharon,  and  Ajalon,  and  saw  the 
house  where  Tabitha  was  raised  from  the  dead 
by  Peter. 

It  was  our  desire  to  come  in  sight  of  the 
Holy  City  before  dark,  but  the  hills  of  Judea 
were  rather  too  much  for  us,  and  it  was  very 
late  before  the  end  of  the  journey  was 
reached.  The  carriages  were  left  outside  the 
Jaffa  gate,  as  no  vehicles  can  enter  the  city, 
and  we  walked  through  the  narrow,  rugged 
streets  to  the  Mediterranean  Hotel. 

Our  baggage  had  been  delayed,  and  we  did 
not  get  it  until  three  o'clock.  Some  of  it  was 
quite  damp  from  the  rain. 

AYe  found  among  the  guests  at  the  hotel  our 
former  fellow-travelers.  Sir  Edward  and  Lady 
Lechmere.  They  expected  to  take  the  same 
tour  through  the  Holy  Land  that  had  been 
planned  for  us. 

The  whole  of  the  following  morning  was  de- 


(122) 


TJie  ''  Baliamauh'r'' — Jciffd — Jerusalem.   123 


voted  to  much  needed  rest,  as  we  were  by  this 
time  somewhat  wearied  and  worn. 

Sight-seeing  was  began  in  earnest,  however, 
after  lunch.  We  first  visited  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulclie?\  Here  a  small  taper  was 
handed  to  each  of  the  party  to  furnish  light 
through  the  various  dark  chapels  and  j^as- 
sages.  The  Armenians  were  holding  some 
kind  of  service  in  their  special  chapel,  and  we 
stopped  for  a  few  minutes  to  listen  to  their 
weird  chanting;  then  went  into  the  sepnlcher 
itself,  the  door  of  which  is  built  very  low,  so 
that  every  one  who  enters  must  bend  the  knee. 
AVe  put  our  hands  into  the  crevice  of  the  rock 
where  the  cross  once  rested,  and  saw  the  place 
where  our  Lord's  mother  stood  weeping  for 
her  son. 

We  then  visited  Mount  Zion  and  the  palace 
of  Caiaphas  where  Jesus  was  tried  and  where 
Peter  denied  his  Lord. 

The  guide  pointed  out  the  place  where  King 
David  was  buried,  and  we  had  a  good  view  of 
Mount  Moriah,  Mount  Nebo,  and  the  Mount 
of  Olives. 


^    ^^.Ir^^o. 


LEPEIIS  OUTSIDE  JERUSALEM. 


(1-4) 


The  ''BcfJiamanier''— Jaffa— Jerusalem.  125 

Tlie  streets  are  narrow,  crooked,  and  very 
dirty — sometimes  in  steps  like  a  stair-way, 
crowded  with  dogs,  donkeys,  camels,  and  Ar- 
abs. It  was  hard  for  us  to  realize  that  Y\'e 
ft'-ere  in  "the  City  of  David,  beautiful  for  sit- 
aation." 

On  our  return  we  passed  many  lepers,  who 
begged  in  a  heart-rending  way  for  "  backsheesh^ 
madam,  backsheesh.''  They  were  so  repulsive 
we  disliked  to  get  close  enough  to  drop  the 
coppers  into  their  little  tin  cups.  They  are 
not  permitted  to  come  inside  the  city  gates, 
and  it  was  really  pathetic  to  see  them  crouch- 
ing along  by  the  road-side  in  all  their  poverty 
and  wretchedness. 

At  the  Jerusalem  Hotel  there  was  a  pleas- 
ant party  of  people  from  Louisville,  Ky.  We 
felt  as  though  they  were  almost  kin  to  us,  com- 
ing from  so  near  home. 

.  On  Sunday  we  went  to  the  grand  Mosque  of 
Omar,  which  occupies  a  part  of  what  was  once 
the  area  of  King  Solomon's  Temple.  The 
building  is  very  magnificent,  with  a  wealth  of 
rich   mosaics,   handsome    stained    glass,    and 


126 


A  Girl '«  Journey. 


beautiful  ornamentations  of  various  kinds.  In 
the  center  of  it  is  the  rock  on  which  Abraham 
was  about  to  offer  up  Isaac. 


AIMMiO.\(  JUNG    THE    MOSQUE   OF   OMAR. 

The  Moslems  believe  that  Mohammed  as- 
cended to  heaven  from  this  rock,  and  that  it 
tried  to  follow  him,  but  an  angel  caught  hold 
of  it  and  held  it  back.  They  aver  that  the 
rock  is  now  suspended  in  the  air.    "We  certain- 


The  ''Rahamatuer''— Jaffa— Jermalem.  127 

ly  did  go  down  under  it,  but  could  not  accept 
the  tradition  concerning  it. 

We  passed  along  the  Via  Dolorosa,  and  saw 
the  Pool  of  Bethesda,  while  the  Pool  of  Hez- 
ekiah  was  just  back  of  our  hotel. 

In  the  afternoon  we  rode  on  donkeys  to  the 
top  of  the  Mount  of  Olives.  Aunt  Anna  went 
in  state,  seated  in  a  palanquin — a  sort  of  sedan- 
chair  swung  between  two  mules. 

The  road  up  the  mount  was  steep  and  rocky, 
but  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  city  from  the 
minaret  on  its  summit. 

We  went  into  the  Church  of  the  Ascension, 
and  were  shown  a  foot-print,  which  the  Mo- 
hammedans say  was  made  by  our  Saviour. 

Our  way  then  led  for  some  distance  through 
the  bed  of  the  brook  Kidron,  and  off  on  a  hill 
was  pointed  out  the  tree  on  which  Judas  Is- 
cariot  hanged  himself. 

Passing  through  St.  Stephen's  Gate,  we  vis- 
ited the  Tomb  of  the  Virgin,  where  small  ta- 
pers were  furnished  us  again.  Inside  the  sep- 
ulcher  is  a  magnificent  image  of  the  Virgin 
richly  ornamented  with  many  costly  jewels. 


128  A  GirVs  Journey. 

We  went  into  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane — 
a  quiet,  peaceful  place,  now  in  possession  of 
the  monks.  It  is  well  kept,  with  walks  and 
beds  of  bright  flowers.  There  remain  some  of 
the  same  old  olive-trees  that  witnessed  the  ag- 
ony of  our  Saviour  on  "that  doleful  night  be- 
fore his  death." 

The  monks  presented  the  ladies  with  bou- 
quets from  the  sacred  spot,  which  were  pressed 
and  brought  home  as  most  valuable  souvenirs. 

On  the  Mount  of  Olives  we  went  down  into 
a  kind  of  subterranean  hall,  where  there  were 
twelve  stone  niches  in  the  wall.  This  place 
was  discovered  by  a  duchess,  and  it  was  her 
belief  that  the  apostles  used  to  pray  there. 

Above  ground  around  the  sides  of  the  court 
were  thirty -two  stone  tablets  on  which  tlie 
Lord's  Prayer  is  written  in  as  many  different 
languages. 

Keturning  to  the  hotel,  we  passed  the  Pool 
of  Siloam  and  the  Virgin's  Pool;  also  the 
place  just  outside  the  gate  where  St.  Stephen 
was  stoned. 

Our  donkeys  were  not  so  good  as  those  in 


The  ''Hahauianiir''— Jaffa— Jerusalem.  129 


Cairo,  but  the  principal  aunoyance  was  the 
donkey-boys,  who  got  up  dissensions  among 
themselves  as  to  whose  donkey  should  have 
the  best  place,  and  all  our  appeals  for  "peace" 
were  in  vain. 

Mr.  Oilman,  the  American  Consul  to  Jeru- 
salem, and  his  son  were  stopping  at  our  hotel, 
and  we  found  them  very  agreeable  gentlemen. 
They  were  of  considerable  assistance  to  us 
several  times,  kindly  offering  the  protection 
of  a  guard  to  attend  us  through  the  streets  of 
the  city,  where  it  was  dangerous  for  strangers 
to  venture  alone. 

The  tops  of  the  houses  were  all  flat,  and  easy 
to  walk  upon.  One  night  we  went  up  on  the 
roof,  and  had  a  splendid  view  of  the  Mount  of 
Olives,  with  the  full  moon  rising  over  its  crest, 
forming  a  precious  memory  for  the  years  to 

come. 

9 


JERICHO— DEAD  SEA— RIVER  JORDAN. 

AFTEK  a  pleasant  stay  of  several  days  in 
Jerusalem,  we  prepared  to  take  up  our 
line  of  march  in  an  easterly  direction  toward 
our  final  destination,  and  to  really  "  go  to  Jer- 
icho." 

I  am  not  an  artist,  or  I  would  give  a  sketch 
of  our  party  as  we  stood  just  outside  the  Jaffa 
gate,  mounted  and  equipped  for  the  journey. 
First  came  the  guard,  a  swarthy  Arab  of  splen- 
did plnjsique^  dressed  in  his  native  picturesque 
costume  and  fairly  bristling  with  warlike  weap- 
ons as  he  skillfully  reined  in  his  fleet  charger 
of  the  desert;  next,  Mr.  Dattari,  who  also 
rode  a  fiery,  mettlesome  steed;  following  him, 
mounted  on  horseback,  the  dragoman,  we 
three  girls,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Eastman,  and  Uncle 
Robert;  after  them  the  cooks  and  waiters  (we 

had  to  carry  provisions  and  cooking  utensils, 
(130)" 


Jericho— Dead  Sea — Biver  Jordan.      131 


there  being  no  hotel  at  Jericho),  who  rode  or 
drove  cute  little  donkeys  which  trotted  along 
complacently  beneath  their  heavy  loads  of 
dishes,  pans,  edibles,  etc.  Aunt  Anna  brought 
up  the  rear  in  fine  style,  seated  in  a  palan- 
quin, and  attended  by  two  or  three  Arabs. 

I  must  not  forget  to  tell  something  of  my 
horse,  which  I  sincerely  hope  is  the  only  one 
of  his  particular  kind  in  existence.  His  bones 
were  scantily  covered  with  flesh,  and  his  gait, 
which  was  simply  excruciating,  resembled  that 
of  a  camel,  as  he  seemed  to  put  forward  both 
feet  on  one  side  at  the  same  time. 

The  road,  over  the  mountains  most  of  the 
way,  was  very  steep  and  rugged.  In  and  out 
we  wound  among  the  hills,  our  procession  ad- 
vancing slowly  in  single  file,  the  horses  care- 
fully placing  their  feet  in  the  tracks  worn  by 
the  steeds  of  former  ages,  while  the  sun  poured 
its  rays  upon  us  in  a  perfect  deluge  of  heat. 

My  noble  (?)  charger,  showing  a  decided 
preference  for  the  rear,  soon  dropped  behind; 
and  by  no  expostulations— beating  or  thump- 
ing, administered  by  myself  and  other  mem- 


132  A  Girl's  Journey. 


bers  of  the  party — could  he  be  induced  to  re- 
sign his  position.  I  came  very  near  wearing 
out  both  my  patience  and  umbrella  in  ineffect- 
ual attempts  to  make  him  "  get  up." 

We  threaded  the  narrcnv  pass  where  the 
Bible  tells  us  a  man  once  "  fell  among  thieves," 
but  felt  safe  enough  when,  looking  forward,  we 
saw  our  dusky  guard  and  his  warlike  outfit. 
Lunch  was  served  at  the  same  inn  to  which  the 
Good  Samaritan  carried  the  wounded  man, 
leaving  him  comforted  and  cared  for.  The 
inn,  or  khan,  is  a  sorry-looking  ruin  now,  hav- 
ing little  to  recommend  it  save  sacred  asso- 
ciation. 

When  our  destination  was  finally  reached, 
an  hour  or  two  before  the  sun  went  down,  I 
looked  around  for  Jericho,  but  failed  to  see 
any  thing  that  had  even  the  ai)pearance  of  the 
remains  of  a  citij.  Scarcely  more  was  to  be  seen 
than  the  spot  where  the  ancient  city  stood,  and 
the  only  buildings  within  sight  were  the  Greek 
convent  and  a  little  lodging  -  house,  whither 
we  turned  our  weary  horses  and  sought  shelter 
from  the  scorching  rays  of  the  afternoon  sun. 


Jericho — Dead  Sea — Iliter  Joidan.      133 

A  person  not  accustomed  to  riding  cannot 
well  c4iduie  a  whole  day's  journey  on  such  a 
steed  as  mine  without  feeling  stiff,  to  say  the 
least  of  it.  I  was  more  than  stiff — hot,  sore, 
sleepy,  hungry,  and  exhausted,  both  in  body 
and  mind.  For  several  days  I  felt  as  though 
1  had  "  been  through  a  grist-mill,"  and  upon 
lying  down  seemed  as  if  coming  unjointed 
every  time  I  turned. 

A  good  nap  and  a  savory  dinner  did  much 
toward  restoring  failing  spirits,  and  we  spent  a 
pleasant  evening  with  traveling  acquaintances 
who  had  preceded  us.  The  Lechmere  party 
had  ridden  on  donkeys,  and  were,  if  possible, 
more  fatigued  than  we. 

It  w^as  a  beautiful  moonlight  night,  and  w'e 
enjoyed  it  wandering  about  in  the  grove  of 
lemon,  banana,  and  citron  trees  surrounding 
the  inn.  We  ate  some  sweet  lemons,  wdiicli 
were  rather  insipid,  being  a  fruit  between  the 
lemon  and  the  orange,  and  also  tried  a  fresh 
citron,  much  better,  according  to  my  taste,  than 
the  preserved  fruit.  We  gathered  the  fragrant 
white  star  jessamine,  and  I  was  appointed  a 


134  A  Girl 's  Jouniey. 

committee  of  one  to  pick  a  banana  otf  one  of 
the  trees,  which  Mary  Green  tasted  to  see  if 
it  was  good.  She  did  not  want  a  second  bite, 
as  it  was  rcnj  (jrecti.  Sitting  on  the  little  pi- 
azza, we  sung  and  chatted  until  time  to  retire. 
After  we  Americans  had  sung  one  of  our  na- 
tional hymns  the  Englishmen  present  removed 
their  hats  and  gave  us  "  God  Save  the  Queen." 
There  were  not  bed -rooms  enough  to  "go 
round,"  so  a  numl^er  of  the  gentlemen  had  to 
camj^  out  in  sitting  and  dining  rooms. 

Next  morning  an  early  start  was  made,  and 
after  a  ride  of  several  hours  over  the  plains 
we  reached  the  Dead  Sea,  and  rested  for 
awhile  on  its  quiet  shore.  I  had  expected  to 
find  this  a  dreary,  desolate  place,  but  it  was 
one  of  the  prettiest  sheets  of  water  I  had  ever 
seen— clear  as  crystal,  and  perfectly  calm  and 
smooth.  We  gathered  some  beautiful  pebbles 
from  the  beach,  and  dipped  our  hands  into 
and  even  tasted  the  water,  which  was  as  bitter 
as  quinine. 

The  gentlemen  of  the  other  party,  so  they 
afterward  told  us,  went  bathing  in  the  sen,  and 


Jericho — Dead  Sea — River  Jordan.      135 

as  a  result  of  the  buoyancy  of  the  water  Sir 
Edward  Lechmere  came  very  near  being 
drowned,  but  was  fortunately  pulled  out  in 
time  by  young  Mr.  Clark,  to  whom  the  baio- 
net  presented  a  gold  snuff-box  as  a  token  of 
gratitude  for  his  ready  assistance.  Mr.  Gil- 
man  joined  us  just  before  noon,  and  he  still 
wore  the  crust  of  salt  resulting  from  his  briny 
bath. 

Eiding  to  the  river  Jordan,  which  flows 
into  the  northern  extremity  of  the  Dead  Sea, 
lunch  was  spread  beneath  the  tamarind-trees 
growing  along  its  banks.  We  bathed  our  faces 
and  hands  in  the  sacred  stream,  cut  riding- 
whips  from  a  thicket  near  by,  and  dij^ped  them 
into  the  river  three  times  to  bring  home  as 
mementos,  and  filled  two  canteens  with  the 
water. 

No  doubt  my  old  horse  could  tell  something 
of  the  fate  of  my  sacred  switch,  since  I  Avore 
it  into  shreds  trying  to  induce  him  to  quicken 
his  steps  as  we  returned  to  Jerusalem. 

The  Jordan  is  a  cold,  swift,  muddy  stream, 
seemingly  about  sixty  or  seventy  feet  wide  at 


(136) 


Jericho — Dead  Sea — Iiirer  Jordan.      137 

the  Pilgrim's  Bathing-place,  from  which  point 
we  viewed  it.  We  girls  sung  with  great  gusto 
that  old  revival  hymn,  "On  Jordan's  stormy 
banks  I  stand,"  though  the  banks  were  any 
thing  else  than  stormy  at  that  time. 

The  end  of  the  third  day  after  leaving  Je- 
rusalem found  us  winding  our  way  slowly  and 
wearily  back,  each  one  longing  as  anxiously 
as  did  ever  Crusader  of  old  for  a  first  glimpse 
of  the  walls  of  the  City  of  David.  What  a 
welcome  sight  it  was!  and  how  charming  the 
view  as  we  gazed  upon  it  from  the  oijposite 
hills  and  remembered  that  we  were  nearing 
the  end  of  the  long  day's  journey,  and  had  at 
last  really  been  "to  Jericho!  "  We  felt  liter- 
ally the  inspiration  of  the  beautiful  stanza: 

Jerusalem,  my  happy  home ! 
Name  ever  dear  to  me ! 

When  shall  my  labors  have  an  end, 
In  joy,  and  peace,  and  thee  ? 


(138) 


JERUSALEM—BETHLEHEM— JAFFA. 

WE  felt  sufficiently  refreshed  next  morning 
to  resume  our  sight-seeing,  and  decided 
on  Bethlehem  as  the  next  place  of  interest  to 
be  visited.  This  small  town  is  situated  on  a 
ridge  or  hill  about  six  miles  from  Jerusalem, 
and  contains  nearly  three  thousand  inhabit- 
ants, all  of  whom  are  Christians.  The  drive 
out  was  quite  pleasant,  and  among  other 
places  passed  on  the  way  w^as  Kachel's  Tomb, 
where  we  gathered  handfuls^  of  pretty  pink 
crocuses,  that  looked  fresh  and  spring-like, 
peeping  up  from  the  stony  ground  about  the 
old  ruin. 

From  the  village  itself  we  had  a  fine  view 
of  the  fields  of  Boaz,  where  Euth  gleaned  in 
the  olden  time. 

It  was  with  feelings  of  reverence  that  we 
visited    the    Church    of    the   Nativity,  below 

(139) 


140  A  Girl 's  Jotirney. 

which  were  shown  the  grotto,  with  a  silver 
star  in  the  floor  marking  the  birthplace  of  our 
Saviour,  the  spot  where  the  infant  Jesus  lay 
in  the  manger,  and  the  tomb  and  chapel  of  St. 
Jerome.  It  is  sad  that  this  place,  made  sa- 
cred to  all  Christians  by  its  holy  associations, 
should  necessarily  be  guarded  by  Turkish  sol- 
diers in  order  to  keep  down  dissensions  and 
prevent  pilfering  and  disfiguration  by  pil- 
grims of  different  nationalities  and  creeds. 

The  cave  or  grotto  underneath  the  building 
is  hung  with  handsome  tapestries  and  gold 
and  silver  lamps,  while  the  light  above  the 
star  is  never  allowed  to  go  out. 

We  had  lunch  at  a  Latin  convent  connect- 
ed with  the  church,  and  they  gave  us  to  drink 
some  of  the  native  wine,  which  was  rather  too 
sour  for  our  untutored  taste. 

After  buying  some  exquisite  pieces  of 
mother-of-pearl  and  carved  wood-work  we  en- 
tered the  vehicles  and  returned  to  the  city. 
■?  The  carving  on  sea-shells  was  prettier  in 
Bethlehem  than  any  we  had  seen  elsewhere. 

On  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Mount  of  Olives, 


Jerusalem— Bethlehem— Jaffa.  141 


in  the  little  village  of  Bethany,  we  visited 
what  remains  of  the  house  of  Mary  and  Mar- 
tha, saw  the  tomb  of  Lazarus,  and  watered 
our  horses  from  the  stream  which  flows  from 
the  Apostles'  Fountain. 

One  day  a  shopping  expedition  was  pro- 
posed, and  a  number  of  us  sallied  forth  in 
search  of  something  to  buy.  The  principal 
things  were  of  olive-wood,  carved  in  all  imag- 
inable shapes,  from  a  tiny  needle-case  to  imi- 
tation books  filled  with  cards  of  pressed  flow- 
ers, and  collections  of  fine  views  of  celebrated 
places  around,  besides  fancy  articles  of  vari- 
ous kinds. 

Young  Mr.  Oilman  brought  us  some  "sheik- 
bread,"  that  had  been  presented  to  his  father, 
the  Consul.  It  did  not  look  or  taste  much  like 
bread;  was  made  of  flour,  honey,  currants, 
and  several  other  things  that  I  could  not  make 
out,  and  dried  or  cooked  in  the  sun.  I  should 
have  to  be  ravenously  hungry  before  I  could 
persuade  myself  to  eat  such  a  doubtful-look- 
ing compound. 

Uncle  Kobert  had  been  introduced  to  Fa- 


142  A  Girl 's  Journey. 


ther  Stephanos,  a  Greek  monk,  and  he  came 
to  the  hotel  one  morning  to  show  us  some  of 
the  interesting  sights  of  the  wonderful  old 
city.  He  conducted  us  first  to  the  Greek 
Hospital,  where  "we  were  introduced  to  the 
head  physician,  and  invited  into  his  private 
sitting-room.  Soon  a  servant  brought  in  a 
large  silver  tray,  on  which  were  some  goblets 
of  water,  two  little  stands,  one  filled  with 
spoons,  the  other  empty,  and  a  glass  of  jelly. 
It  was  handed  first  to  Mr.  Eastman,  but  he, 
not  knowing  how  to  proceed,  declined  to  par- 
take. Mrs.  Eastman  came  next,  and  she 
asked  Father  Stephanos  what  to  do.  He 
told  her  to  "take  some  jelly  in  one  of  the 
spoons,  eat  it,  place  the  spoon  in  the  empty 
stand,  and  drink  a  glass  of  w^ater."  We  all 
very  gravely  followed  her  example,  and  Mr. 
Eastman  tried  again.  The  Arabic  coffee  was 
then  served  in  tiny  cups,  and  after  a  short 
conversation  with  the  doctor  w^e  bowed  our- 
selves out.  We  were  shown  through  the  dif- 
ferent w^ards,  and  saw  where  the  natives,  pil- 
grims, monks,  and  nuns  were  all  taken  care  of, 


Jerusalem — Bethleliem — Jaffa.  143 

free  of  charge.  Every  thing  was  as  clean  as 
could  be,  and  the  patients  comfortable  and 
well  cared  for. 

Father  Stephanos  accompanied  us  to  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher,  and  this  time 
we  had  a  much  better  view  of  it  than  before, 
from  the  balcony  round  the  inside  of  the 
dome.  We  also  visited  a  school,  where  the 
Arabic  children  are  taught  to  speak  Greek. 
They  sung  very  sweetly,  and  allowed  us  to 
look  over  their  copy-books.  The  teacher  did 
not  speak  English,  and  all  our  conversation 
had  to  be  carried  on  through  an  interpreter. 

Next  the  Father  went  with  us  to  call  on  the 
Greek  Patriarch,  who  is  one  of  the  four  heads 
of  the  Greek  Church,  as  the  Pope  is  the  one 
head  of  the  Church  of  Kome.  As  he  was  quite 
a  distinguished  somebody,  we  counted  that 
visit  as  "a  feather  in  our  caps."  We  were 
solemnly  ushered  into  a  magnificent  apart- 
ment, and  awaited  the  appearance  of  the  ven- 
erable man.  After  a  short  time  he  came  in, 
sweeping  along  in  his  rich,  heavy  robes,  and 
seated  himself  on  a  kind  of  raised  platform 


144  A  G irl  's  Jou rn ey. 

or  throne.  AVe  were  introduced,  and  as 
the  Patriarch  did  not  speak  our  language 
Father  Stephanos  had  to  act  as  interpreter 
again.  After  some  conversation  refresh- 
ments were  brought  in  on  a  massive  silver 
waiter,  the  jelly  this  time  being  served  in  ex- 
quisite little  silver  stands,  inlaid  with  gems, 
while  the  spoons  were  of  gold,  and  the  goblets 
of  rare  and  beautiful  workmanship.  Some 
small  glasses  of  "liqiieio;''  red  and  amber, 
were  brought  in,  which  tasted  very  much  like 
cordial.  After  drinking  coffee  from  delicate 
China  cups,  seemingly  as  frail  as  egg-shells, 
w^e  made  our  adieus,  and  w^alked  through  a 
lemon-grove  out  into  the  gardens.  Here  the 
Patriarch  had  ordered  bouquets  prepared  for 
each  of  the  ladies,  and  we  departed  with  very 
pleasant  impressions  of  our  distinguished 
host. 

We  passed  on  to  the  Greek  convent,  and 
entered  the  refectory,  where  the  boys  were  at 
dinner.  One  of  the  number  was  reading 
aloud  to  the  rest  from  a  large  book,  which  rest- 
ed on  a  stand  at  one  end  of  the  room. 


fcliSlV^^  J^ -]?^»^f=*i3=^ 


10 


(145) 


146  A  GirVs  JoufHcy. 


Father  Stephanos  showed  us  his  own  room, 
and  then  accompanied  us  to  the  nunnery. 
Here  we  were  conducted  into  the  cell  of  a 
nun  almost  eighty  yoars  of  age.  The  room 
was  so  small,  and  the  ceiling  so  low,  that  it 
would  barely  accomnjodate  our  party.  The 
old  lady  sold  jewelry  which  she  made  of  hair. 
It  was  a  mystery  how  anybody  could  live  and 
work  in  so  cramped  a  place. 

After  lunch  our  dragoman  took  us  to  the 
Jews'  Wailing-place,  where  we  witnessed  the 
poor  creatures'  grief,  which  seemed  to  be 
really  sincere.  They  cried  and  moaned,  beat- 
ing their  heads  against  the  rocks  in  the  wall 
of  the  temple,  and  kissing  again  and  again 
the  stones  (which  have  been  worn  quite  smooth 
in  places),  some  of  them  reading  passages  from 
Lamentations,  and  others  kneeling  in  silent 
prayer.  It  seemed  almost  sacrilegious  to 
watch  them,  and  after  standing  for  a  few 
moments  in  silence  we  quietly  withdrew. 

We  took  a  walk  out  to  the  Tombs  of  the 
Kings,  and  returned  through  the  Russian  Con- 
sul's grounds,  where  was  pointed  out  an  im- 


Jenisalem — Beth  lehem — Jaffa,  147 

meiise  pillar  of  stone,  which  is  thought  to 
have  been  intended  for  use  in  the  building  of 
Solomon's  Temple,  but  was  broken  in  the  at- 
tempt to  excavate  ii,  and  has  never  been  re- 
moved. 


A   IIOLSE-TtU'  IN'  TIIK  EA.ST. 


A  very  striking  feature  in  the  view  of  the 
city  from  the  outside  was  the  number  of  little 


148  A  Girl  *s  Journey. 

rouDcl  domes  scattered  over  the  flat  roofs  of 
the  houses,  and  we  were  frequently  reminded 
of  what  Mark  Twain  said  of  Jerusalem:  "It 
was  the  knobbiest  city  in  the  world  except 
Constantinople,  and  looked  as  if  it  might  have 
been  roofed  from  center  to  circumference  with 
inverted  saucers." 

Before  sunrise  next  morning  we  were  up, 
bade  a  long  farewell  to  Jerusalem,  and  turned 
our  faces  toward  Jaffa  and  the  sea.  AYe  Avere  fa- 
vored with  more  pleasant  weather  on  this  trip 
than  when  on  that  road  before,  consequently 
made  the  journey  in  a  much  shorter  time. 

Our  drive  during  the  morning  was  unevent- 
ful, except  that  an  Arab  made  an  unsuccessful 
attempt  to  pick  Uncle  Robert's  pocket.  After 
dinner,  however,  as  we  were  driving  across  the 
plain  of  Sharon  something  did  happen.  Aunt 
Anna  and  Mrs.  Eastman  were  in  a  carriage  in 
front  of  the  rest  of  us,  when  suddenly  Mr. 
Dattari  saw  smoke  coming  from  their  direc- 
tion. He  immediately  jumped  down  and  ran 
forward  to  stop  the  vehicle.  When  the  la- 
dies alighted  it  was  discovered  that  the  cush- 


Jerusalem — Beth  lehem — Jaffa.  149 

ion  on  which  they  had  been  sitting  was  on  fire. 
Mrs.  Eastman  tumbled  out  in  such  haste  that 
she  bruised  her  arm  a  little,  and  Aunt  Anna 
found  a  hole  burned  in  her  dress,  but  no  seri- 
ous damage  was  done.  Fortunately,  there  was 
a  heavy  woolen  shawl  folded  on  the  seat  be- 
hind, which  probably  saved  them  from  a  seri- 
ous accident.  The  only  way  the  flames  could 
be  accounted  for  was  that  some  sparks  from 
the  driver's  cigarette  must  have  blown  in  and 
burned  their  way  through. 

We  stopped  for  a  moment  at  Abraham's 
Fountain,  and  our  courier  killed  one  of  the 
many  lizards  running  about  in  all  directions. 

We  came  in  sight  of  Jaffa  before  the  sun 
was  down,  and  found  there  would  be  plenty  of 
time  for  a  walk  before  dark.  Our  guide  con- 
ducted us  to  an  orange-grove,  where  the  trees 
were  loaded  with  fruit,  and  gave  us  permission 
to  gather  and  eat  as  much  as  we  wanted.  After 
having  a  good  deal  of  fun  playing  ball  with 
the  oranges  we  bought  a  large  basket  of  them 
for  about  twenty  cents,  and  came  away  with 
hands  and  pockets  full. 


150  A  Girl  *s  Journeij. 

Next  morning  we  took  a  walk  in  the  garden 
of  a  German  baron,  where  were  a  great  many 
beautiful  flowers;  and  the  rest  of  the  time  was 
spent  in  writing  letters,  resting,  and  lounging. 

While  standing  just  outside  the  hotel  mak- 
ing some  inquiries  of  our  dragoman,  an  Egyp- 
tian woman,  who  happened  to  be  a  friend  of 
Abrahim's,  came  by.  She  stopped  to  si)eak 
to  him,  and  we  crowded  around  to  examine  her 
costume,  which  consisted  of  a  long  flowing 
robe,  loose  slippers,  or  sandals,  close-fitting 
head-dress,  and  a  veil  of  thick  black  material, 
which  covered  half  her  face  below  the  eyes, 
and  was  heavily  weighted  with  rows  of  coins. 
She  was  very  good-natured,  and  seemed  to  be 
as  much  interested  in  us  as  we  were  in  her. 
Some  one  asked  if  she  would  sell  her  veil,  but 
she  shook  her  head  emphatically,  that  being 
probably  her  most  valuable  possession. 

At  half-past  twelve  every  thing  was  ready, 
and  we  climbed  into  the  little  boats  and  were 
rowed  out  to  the  steamer  "Ceres,"  which  was 
anchored  just  within  the  harbor. 


STEAMER  "  CERES  "-BEYROOT-SMYRNA. 
JHEEE  being  just  eight  in  our  party,  and 
1    no  other   first-class   passengers,  we  had 
things  all  our  own  way  on  board  the  "  Ceres." 
Captain  Florio  and  all  the  officers  seemed  to 
consider  us  as  honored  guests,  and  exerted 
themselves  to  make  our  voyage  as  delightful 
as  possible.     It  was  like  a  trip  on  a  private 
yacht,  with  the  weather  as  calm  and  beautiful 
as  could  be  desired.     Our  state-rooms  were  on 
deck,  giving  us  plenty  of  space  and  fresh  air. 
Nobody  was  seasick,  nobody  was  bored,  and 
everybody  felt  completely  at  home,  while  the 
fare  was  excellent.     We  rose  at  nine  or  ten 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  were  served  with  a 
substantial  breakfast,  and  enjoyed  greatly  the 
variety  of  fruits  which  always  accompanied  it. 
I  feasted  again  on  fresh  dates,  and  from  morn- 
ing until  night  we  did  nothing  but  have  a  good 

(151) 


152  A  Girl's  Journey. 

time.  Every  evening  after  dinner  we  either 
gathered  on  deck  and  sung  and  chatted  in  the 
moonlight  or  went  down  into  the  saloon  and 
read,  wrote,  talked,  and  played  games.  We 
found  a  number  of  books  piled  away  on  a  shelf, 
and  brought  them  out  to  read.  Captain  Flo- 
rio,  who  had  taken  quite  a  fancy  to  the  young 
people  of  the  party,  especially  "  Mees  Suzee," 
as  he  called  her,  hunted  up  several  games  for 
our  amusement,  and,  although  he  spoke  very 
little  English,  condescended  to  play  dominos 
and  tripoli  with  us,  evidently  enjoying  it  as 
much  as  we  did. 

There  were  a  great  many  Turks  on  board — 
second  and  third  class  passengers — who  staid 
on  the  lower  decks.  We  felt  very  sorry  for 
the  poor  things,  especially  one  night  when  it 
rained.  They  had  no  state-rooms,  and  were 
camping  out  on  the  deck,  wdth  blankets  and 
mattresses,  until  they  were  kindly  allowed  to 
come  inside  the  saloon  out  of  the  rain. 

The  captain  called  our  courier  "the  bad 
boy,"  because  he  was  so  full  of  mischief,  and 
seemed  to  take  great  delight  in  teasing  him. 


Steamer  "  Ceres  ''—Beijroot—Sithjrna.     153 


One  evening  at  dinner,  when  Mr.  Dattari  com- 
plained of  being  cold,  the  captain  rushed  off 
to  his  state-room  and  came  back  with  a  flam- 
ing red  blanket,  in  which  he  wrapped  "  the 
bad  boy  "  head  and  ears,  much  to  the  amuse- 
ment of  the  rest  of  us. 

The  "Ceres"  dropped  anchor  at  Beyroot, 
on  the  Syrian  coast,  early  Monday  morning, 
and  by  ten  o'clock  we  were  in  the  ship's  boat 
rowing  ashore  for  a  short  visit.  How  strange 
and  queer  every  thing  looked!  How  the  peo- 
ple stared  at  us!  and  how  the  beggars  did  beg! 

We  drove  out  some  distance  toward  the 
mountains  of  Lebanon,  the  highest  peaks  of 
which  were  covered  with  snow.  After  a  pleas- 
ant walk  through  the  garden  of  Eustum  Pasha, 
ex-governor  of  Lebanon,  we  ate  ripe  bananas 
off  the  trees  and  were  allowed  to  gather  all  the 
flowers  we  wanted. 

We  stopped  for  a  little  while  at  the  Bellvue 
Hotel,  and  then  went  through  the  silver  and 
silk  bazaars. 

The  ladies  of  our  party  were  always  keen 
for  bargains,  and  often  had  amusing  experi- 


154  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

ences.  AVe  would  enter  a  little  silk-shop  and 
the  salesman  would  hurry  to  unfold  his  goods, 
while  Mr.  Dattari  and  the  dragoman  stood  by 
ready  to  interpret — Aunt  Anna  and  Mrs.  East- 
man very  much  interested,  Mary  G.  a  little  less 
so,  and  Susie  and  1  still  less,  for  we  two  were 
never  very  fond  of  shopping.  Uncle  Robert 
and  Mr.  Eastman  would  get  chairs  and  sit 
down  in  the  street  I  would  sit  for  awhile  on 
the  low  counter  listening  to  the  trading,  and 
then  go  and  sit  on  Uncle  Robert's  knee  and 
have  a  laugh  at  the  bargainers. 

One  day  I  was  occupying  my  favorite  perch, 
and  we  two  ^yere  having  a  merry  conversation 
all  to  ourselves,  when,  happening  to  look 
around,  I  found  myself  the  center  of  attrac- 
tion for  a  crowd  of  little  street  Arabs  and 
loafers  who  had  gathered  about,  and  were  gaz- 
ing at  me  in  open-mouthed  astonishment,  as 
though  looking  at  a  circus.  I  retired  in  some 
confusion,  but  not  before  the  party  had  a  good 
laugh  at  my  embarrassment. 

In  Bey  root  we  met  Dr.  Pierce,  the  gentle- 
man who  was  so  ill  on  the  "  Sindh,"  and  were 


steamer  "  Ceres  ''—Beyroot^Smyrna.     155 


glad  to  find  that  he  had  almost  entirely  re- 
covered his  health  and  strength,  having  been 
for  several  weeks  in  the  hospital  at  Jaffa. 

One  very  curious  thing  I  noticed  here  was 
the  use  of  prickly -pear  plants  for  hedges. 
They  grow  to  a  height  of  from  seven  to  ten 
feet,  and  have  great  gnarled  trunks  and 
branches  like  the  limbs  of  a  tree.  The  bloom, 
or  fruit,  which  is  very  peculiar-looking,  grows 
out  from  the  edge  of  the  leaves,  and  in  some 
localities  is  used  for  food. 

Next  day  we  awoke  to  find  the  ship  anchored 
before  the  town  of  Larnica,  on  the  island  of 
Cyprus.  We  went  ashore  and  exhausted  the 
sights  in  about  an  hour  and  a  half. 

The  trip  from  the  steamer  to  the  shore  was 
delightful;  the  ocean  was  perfectly  calm,  and, 
though  I  suppose  the  water  must  have  been  a 
great  many  feet  deep,  the  bottom  could  be  seen 
distinctly. 

On  Thursday  we  stopped  at  Rhodes,  but  as 
the  vessel  left  before  daylight  none  of  us  were 
awake.  During  the  day  we  cited  a  number  of 
islands— Patmos,  Samos,  and  others. 


156  A  Girl  \s  Journey. 

Two  porpoises  made  their  appearance  near 
the  steamer.  One  of  them  jumped  clear  out 
of  the  water,  so  that  wo  had  a  good  look  at 
him. 

After  dinner  one  evening  Susie  and  I  walked 
a  mile — sixty -one  times  up  and  down  the 
deck. 

Our  party  composed  a  "  happy  family,"  and 
we  would  have  been  sony  if  any  other  first- 
class  passengers  had  come  on  board  to  break 
into  the  little  circle. 

The  next  stopping-place  was  Smyrna,  the 
island  of  rugs  and  figs,  where  the  vessel  was 
anchored  for  several  delightful  days. 

We  were  rowed  in  a  small  boat  out  to  one 
of  the  large  Italian  men-of-war  lying  in  the 
harbor.  The  officers  received  us  politely,  and 
as  one  of  them  was  an  acquaintance  of  our 
courier  he  was  especially  kind  in  showing  us 
around,  even  taking  us  into  his  own  cabin, 
which  was  quite  a  snug  and  complete  little 
affair.  Every  thing  on  board  was  scrupulous- 
ly neat,  and  all  seemed  to  move  on  like  clock- 
work. 


Steamer  '^Ceres'' — Beyroot — Smyrna.     157 

Afterward  we  weut  on  shore,  saw  the  Smyr- 
na rugs,  and  invested  in  figs  and  candy.  The 
figs  were  especially  nice  and  unusually  low  in 
price,  while  the  rugs  were  not  reroarkable 
either  for  beauty  or  cheapness. 

Our  steamer  w^as  quite  close  to  the  shore, 
and  the  scene  on  the  long  street  near  the  wharf 
was  as  animated  as  that  on  Broadway,  New 
York,  with  hundreds  of  queer-looking  people 
going  up  and  down  in  strangely  -  fashioned 
costumes. 

We  never  tired  watching  them  load  the 
vessels.  Our  ship  took  on  a  quantity  of  cot- 
ton and  six  hundred  boxes  of  lemons,  besides 
many  other  tropical  products. 

On  Saturday  morning  the  first  thing  we 
heard  was  the  firing  of  one  hundred  and  one 
salutes  from  the  Italian  men-of-war  in  the 
harbor,  in  honor  of  the  birthday  of  Margue- 
rite, Queen  of  Italy.  We  went  up  on  the  cap- 
tain's bridge,  and  from  there  had  a  fine  view 
of  the  scene.  All  the  great  Italian  vessels — 
eleven  of  them — were  beautifully  decorated 
with  various  colored  flags,  and  a  pretty  sight 


158  A  Girl's  Jouni<  ij. 

they  made!  That  night  there  was  a  ball  on 
the  largest  man-of-war,  with  three  immense 
electric  lights  in  the  ])ow,  which  illuminated 
the  whole  harbor,  lighting  the  way  for  the 
guests.  I  never  saw  more  brilliant  and  pow- 
erful lights,  and  cannot  describe  how  bright 
and  beautiful  they  made  every  thing. 

Numbers  of  peddlers  were  constantly  com- 
ing on  board  to  sell  figs.  AA^e  supi)lied  our- 
selves abundantly,  though  already  had  as 
many  at  the  table  as  we  could  eat. 

Sunday  was  a  quiet,  uneventful  day,  the 
steamer  only  stopping  for  a  little  while  at  Te- 
nedos.  We  were  anchored  a  short  time  at 
Mitylene,  and  in  the  afternoon  passed  through 
the  Dardanelles  and  steamed  up  the  Sea  of 
Marmora. 

Among  the  second-class  passengers  was  a 
beautiful  girl,  one  of  the  wives,  I  suppose,  of 
a  fierce-looking  old  Turk.  She  w^as  anxious 
to  make  friends  wdtli  us ;  talked  a  great  deal, 
and  seemed  puzzled  that  we  could  not  under- 
stand. The  Turkish  ladies  must  never  let  a 
man  see  their  faces,  and  when  the  gentlemen 


steamer  "  Ceres  " — Beyroot — Smyrna.     159 

of  our  party  came  near  this  demure  maiden 
always  quickly  lowered  her  veil.  However, 
they  did  get  a  good  view  of  her  face  one  even- 
ing through  the  window. 

Now  that  this  charming  voyage  was  so 
nearly  ended,  the  weather  began  to  change, 
and  next  morning  the  rain  was  pouring  down 
in  torrents.  We  managed,  however,  between 
showers,  to  get  a  view  of  "Cospoli,"  as  the 
Turks  call  Constantinople,  and  I  am  sure  there 
never  was  a  finer  approach  to  any  place.  The 
city  rolls  ui3ward  in  a  gentle  sweep  from  the 
harbor,  until  the  eye,  gradually  mounting  the 
ascension,  rests  with  delight  on  the  graceful 
minarets  crowning  the  glorious  whole.  We 
could  not  but  hope  that  the  enchantment 
would  not  be  wholly  dissipated  by  a  nearer 
view. 


CONSTANTINOPLE— ATHENS. 

ALONG,  muddy,  disagreeable  walk  through 
various  narrow,  dirty  streets,  with  part  of 
the  way  on  an  under-ground  railroad,  brought 
us  at  length  to  the  Hotel  d'Angleterre,  where 
we  found  quite  a  number  of  letters  and  papers 
awaiting  us,  which  we  enjoyed  to  the  fullest 
extent,  gathered  round  a  comfortable  fire  in 
the  reading-room. 

Our  apartments  were  beautiful,  and  quite 
Oriental  in  their  furnishings — broad,  easy,  sat- 
in-covered divans  against  the  walls,  inviting 
repose,  with  soft,  downy  cushions  and  pillows ; 
pretty  little  gilt  chairs  upholstered  in  blue; 
handsome  mirrors;  large  easy-chairs,  and  the 
curtained  recess  of  the  window,  made  still  more 
inviting  by  a  cushioned  seat  all  round,  reached 
by  two  or  three  short  steps,  making  a  cozy 
nook  for  reading,  if  we  had  time  for  it. 
(160) 


Con  stantinople — Athens.  161 


It  was  raining  next  day,  but  our  party  was 
not  to  be  daunted  by  the  weather.  We  donned 
gossamers  and  rubbers,  and,  heavily  armed 
with  umbrellas,  made  our  way  to  Seraglio 
Point,  out  on  the  Golden  Horn,  where  the  old 
wives  of  the  sultan  are  kept  after  his  Majesty 
tires  of  them. 

Putting  on  slippers,  we  went  through  the 
grand  Mosque  of  St.  Sophia,  taking  our  first 
view  from  the  gallery.  In  this  mosque  were 
eight  immense  columns  of  porphyry,  brought 
from  Baalbec,  also  some  pillars  from  the  Tem- 
ple of  Diana,  and  the  verd-antique  was  espe- 
cially handsome.  There  were  several  boys  sit- 
ting around  on  the  floor,  and  our  dragoman 
told  us  they  were  studying  for  the  priesthood. 

We  went  next  to  the  Pigeon  Mosque,  which 
was  rather  a  battered-up-looking  old  building. 
Each  of  us  threw  a  cupfal  of  grain  into  the 
air,  and  down  came  the  pigeons,  hundreds  and 
hundreds  of  them,  from  all  directions  to  feast 
noisily  upon  the  scattered  kernels. 

After  a  visit  to  the  Tomb  of  Soliman  the 
Magnificent,  we  went  to  the  mosque  which 
11 


(162) 


Constant  hiople — Athens.  163 


bears  his  name.  From  the  minaret  a  priest, 
or  muezzin,  could  be  heard  calling  the  faith- 
ful to  prayers,  proclaiming  in  a  loud  and  mo- 
notonous tone:  "There  is  no  God  but  one 
God,  and  Mohammed  is  his  prophet!  Come 
to  prayers!  "  Inside  the  building  numbers  of 
people  were  kneeling  on  prayer-rugs  and  bow- 
ing their  foreheads  to  the  floor,  each  with  his 
face  turned  to  a  niche  in  the  wall  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Mecca. 

We  walked  through  the  old  drug -bazaar, 
where  it  seemed  to  me  every  kind  of  herb, 
powder,  and  medicine  on  earth  was  offered  for 
sale. 

Another  interesting  place  was  the  Cistern 
of  Constantine,  with  the  thousand  and  one 
columns.  It  is  a  dark,  gloomy  sort  of  cavern 
reached  by  a  flight  of  much-worn  steps,  and  is 
now  used  by  the  silk-spinners,  the  dampness 
l>eing  advantageous  in  the  working  of  that 
material. 

In  the  silk-bazaars  we  came  across  quite  a 
celebrated  character  (Mark  Twain's  "Far- 
away Moses  "),  a  venerable-looking  old  fellow, 


164  A  GirVii  Jonnuij. 


who  was  so  sharp  at  a  bargain  that  we  had  to 
guard  carefully  every  particular,  and  make  it  a 
point  to  pay  him  about  one-fourth  the  price  de- 
manded for  an  article. 

AVhile  walking  through  the  bazaars  we  were 
accosted  on  all  sides  by  the  shi>p-men,  who 
would  even  run  out  into  the  street  and  beg  us 
to  stop  just  for  a  mom.ent  and  look  at  their 
goods.  I  never  saw  a  more  bewilderingly 
entertaining  place,  and  could  have  spent  days 
examining  th6  curious  things  in  the  shops — 
beautiful  embroidered  scarfs,  table-covers, 
rugs,  fine  hammered  brass,  and  more  curios 
tlian  I  could  enumerate. 

Among  other  souvenirs  purchased  was  a  tiny 
sheathed  dagger,  set  with  red  and  blue  stones, 
to  be  worn  as  a  brooch,  the  whole  thing  not 
more  than  three  and  a  half  inches  long. 

We  also  bought  some  curious  bracelets  of 
scented  wood,  with  amber  pendants,  which 
were  intended  simply  as  playthings,  the  scent 
of  the  wood  being  greatly  strengthened  by  the 
warmth  of  the  hands. 

One  afternoon  we  boarded  a  steamer  at  the 


Consta)ifinoj)le —AtJieiis.  1G5 


bridge,  and  took  a  trip  up  the  Bospliorus  as 
far  as  the  Black  Sea.  All  along  the  shores 
were  hundreds  of  summer  residences  of  rich 
Turks  and  Christians.  The  white-marble  pal- 
ace of  the  late  Sultan  was  j)ointed  out  to  us, 
jast  on  the  edge  of  the  Avater,  while  in  the  rear, 
on  a  rise,  could  be  seen  the  palace  of  the  pres- 
ent Sultan. 

On  our  return  to  the  hotel  one  of  the  first 
persons  we  met  was  Captain  Florio,  of  the 
"C^res."  We  gave  him  a  hearty  greeting,  but 
he  could  not  be  persuaded  to  remain  and  dine 
with  us;  consequently  we  saw  but  little  of  him. 

The  next  day  being  Thanksgiving,  we  girls 
concluded  to  spend  it  quietly  in-doors,  espe- 
cially as  the  weather  was  still  damp  and  disa- 
greeable. By  this  time  our  wardrobes  had 
become  a  little  the  worse  for  wear,  and  we  be- 
thought ourselves  of  that  famous  and  necessary 
"■  stitch  in  time." 

Friday  is  the  Mohammedan  Sabbath,  and 
on  that  day  most  of  them  attend  service  at 
some  one  of  the  mosques. 

We  drove  out  a  short  distance  to  see  the 


166  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

Sultau  as  lie  went  to  prayers.  The  whole  city 
seemed  to  bo  moving  in  that  direction,  and  it 
was  some  hours  before  we  caught  a  glimj^se  of 
him.  There  were  thousands  and  thousands  of 
soldiers  in  the  retinue,  many  of  them  Nubians, 
positively  frightful-looking,  being  as  black  as 
soot,  and  carrying  glittering  battle-axes.  Most 
of  the  other  troops  were  in  the  regular  Turk- 
ish uniform.  His  Highness  rode  in  an  open 
victoria  drawn  by  two  beautiful  horses.  He 
wore  a  simple  suit  of  black  cloth,  and  was  not 
dressed  half  as  fine  as  the  driver,  who  sported 
a  magnificent  livery  of  red  velvet  and  gold. 
The  body-guard  was  mounted  on  white  horses, 
and  kept  very  close  to  the  carriage  of  the  sul- 
tan, who  had  a  rather  troubled,  uneasy  expres- 
sion on  his  face.  They  say  that  he  is  afraid  to 
venture  outside  the  palace  grounds,  and  would 
not  go  to  the  mosque  on  Fridays  if  the  people 
did  not  require  it. 

Constantinople  might  very  appropriately  be 
called  "Dog  Town,"  as  these  animals  abound 
on  all  the  streets,  against  the  walls,  and  on  the 
pavements,  and  are  so  lazy  that  we  had  to  walk 


Constantinople — Athens.  167 


over  or  around  tliem.  They  are  a  miserable- 
looking  set  of  curs,  making  night  hideous  with 
their  howls.  However,  they  are  a  sanitary 
blessing  to  the  city,  being  thorough  scaven- 
gers, each  set  having  its  particular  beat,  or 
territory,  not  allowing  any  outside  dog  to  leave 
his  own  limit,  and  seeming  to  know  by  intui- 
tion when  their  rights  are  invaded. 

That  afternoon  we  bade  adieu  to  Constanti- 
nople, and  went  on  board  the  steamer  "  Heli- 
os," on  which  we  had  engaged  passage  to 
Athens. 

The  whole  party,  except  Mr.  Eastman,  left 
the  table  seasick.  Uncle  Robert  excusing  him- 
self on  the  ground  that  the  fish  was  not  cooked 
exactly  to  suit  him.  I  cannot  be  expected  to 
give  a  very  pleasant  account  of  the  voyage, 
which,  fortunately,  was  a  short  one,  the  vessel 
dropping  anchor  at  Piraeus,  the  ancient  port 
of  Athens,  on  Sunday  morning. 

Open  carriages  conveyed  us  over  the  inter- 
vening five  miles,  and  we  were  all  eagerness 
to  get  the  mail,  for  we  felt  sure  there  must  be 
a  quantity  awaiting  us  in  Athens.     Our  courier 


(16b; 


Constanfinojjie — Athens.  169 

hail  come  by  rail,  so  was  half  an  hour  ahead 
of  us,  and  when  we  reached  the  hotel  met  us 
with  a  doleful  face,  and  handed  out  only  three 
letters!  How  our  countenances  and  spirits 
dropped  as  we  were  conducted,  a  sad  and  dis- 
appointed company,  to  our  rooms!  When 
these  were  reached  I  happened  to  glance  at 
the  table,  and  there,  ranged  round  the  edge, 
were  numbers  and  numbers  of  letters — a  regu- 
lar banquet  of  them.  Letters  for  everybody, 
with  papers  in  abundance!  We  then  had 
lunch,  and  our  spirits  ascended. 

The  first  thing  to  be  seen  in  Athens  was  the 
Acropolis,  so  up  we  climbed  and  feasted  our 
eyes  on  the  lovely  view.  The  Parthenon  is 
simply  fascinating.  I  caught  myself  watching 
it  whenever  it  was  in  sight  while  in  Athens, 
and  it  is  a  wonder  I  did  not  stumble  and  fall 
trying  to  view  it  over  my  shoulder  from  various 
parts  of  the  city.  It  is  hard  to  realize  the 
charm  that  lurks  about  this  old  ruin.  The 
open-air  Theater  of  Bacchus  on  one  side  of 
the  Acropolis  was  pointed  out,  and  the  guide 
told  us  that  it  once  accommodated  thirty  thou- 


170  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

sand  people.  It  was  here  that  the  "  Clouds  " 
was  played,  which  caused  the  condemnation 
of  Socrates.  We  also  saw  a  smaller  theater, 
the  "Odeum,"  which  was  built  by  a  rich  Ro- 
man in  honor  of  his  wife.  It  was  formerly 
roofed  over,  but  now  there  are  only  the  ruins 
of  the  seats  and  outer  walls. 

From  the  Acropolis  we  had  a  magnificent 
view  of  Athens  and  the  surrounding  country, 
while  in  the  distance  could  be  seen  the  place 
where  the  battle  of  Salamis  was  fought. 

Among  other  ruins  on  this  celebrated  emi- 
nence are  those  of  a  lovely  little  building 
called  the  "Temple  of  Victory,"  the  image 
being  uithout  icings.  The  reason  the  Athenians 
represented  the  goddess  minus  wings  was  that 
she  might  not  fly  away  from  them. 

Just  below  the  Acropolis  is  Mars' Hill,  where 
St.  Paul  made  his  famous  address  to  the  "  men 
of  Athens."  We  climbed  to  the  top,  and  one  of 
our  party  read  aloud  the  17th  chapter  of  Acts. 

After  lunch  we  drove  out  to  the  place  where 
the  Pan-Athenian  games  were  celebrated;  then 
saw  what  is  left  of  the  Jupiter  Olympus.    After 


Constant 'mopJc — Athens.  171 

visiting  the  grotto  said  to  have  been  the  prison 
of  Socrates,  we  stood  on  the  famous  rock  from 
which  Demosthenes  delivered  the  Philippics. 

The  Temple  of  Theseus  is  the  best  preserved 
of  all  those  that  are  called  ruins,  and  it  was 
there  that  they  showed  us  the  stone  tablets 
with  the  laws  of  Solon  written  on  them. 

Our  hotel  was  just  across  the  square  from 
the  palace  of  King  George  of  Greece,  and 
every  morning  about  ten  o'clock  a  fine  band 
played  under  the  window  of  the  room  in  which 
his  Majesty  happened  to  be.  We  often  went 
up  to  hear  the  music,  and  one  morning  took  a 
long  walk  through  the  palace  gardens.  The 
trees  were  loaded  with  oranges  and  mandarins 
— a  kind  of  fruit  something  like  the  orange, 
but  smaller  and  with  a  more  brittle  peel.  The 
gi-ounds  were  bright  with  flowers,  many  of 
them  varieties  new  and  entirely  strange  to  us. 
It  was  all  so  quiet  and  peaceful,  with  the  wind 
rustling  gently  through  the  trees,  that  it  was 
dijficult  to  realize  we  were  not  far  out  in  the 
country  instead  of  being  in  the  heart  of  a 
great  city. 


172  A  Girl  *s  Journey. 


There  were  numbers  of  soldiers  in  Athens, 
and  it  was  a  fine  sight  to  see  them  promenad- 
ing up  and  down  the  broad,  shady  walks  with 
their  glittering  swords  and  gay  uniforms.  The 
Greek  costume  was  very  joretty,  and  reminded 
me  of  that  worn  by  the  Scotch.  The  short 
skirt,  instead  of  being  plaid,  was  white,  and 
made  very  full,  apparently  having  twenty  or 
thirty  yards  of  goods  gathered  into  it.  This 
was  worn  over  tights,  with  the  feet  clad  in 
pointed  slippers  tipped  with  pompons.  The 
sleeveless  jackets  were  handsomely  embroid- 
ered, and  on  the  head  were  worn  red  caps  with 
long  black  tassels  hanging  from  them. 

Nearly  every  thing  in  the  city  was  made  of 
white  marble — the  door  and  window  sills  and 
even  some  of  the  curb-stones  being  of  this  ma- 
terial. It  was  the  most  strikingly  ivhife  place 
I  ever  saw,  and  its  glitter  dazzled  our  eyes 
after  the  diuginess  of  Constantinople. 

Having  visited  the  museums,  which  were 
exceedingly  attractive,  we  went  to  the  Hall  of 
Science.  This  building  was  also  of  white 
marble,  heavily  decorated  within  and  without 


Constant  iiiople— Athens.  173 


with  gilding  and  mosaics,  but  was  so  brilliant 
in  the  sunshine  that  we  could  not  look  at  it 
longer  than  a  few  moments  at  a  time.  It  was 
built  at  the  expense  of  a  rich  Greek. 

We  took  in  the  bazaars,  where  we  found 
many  curious  things,  and  went  out  on  the 
steam-tram  to  Falero,  the  summer  resort  of 
the  Athenians,  where  we  had  quite  a  pleasant 
time  gathering  shells  and  pebbles  on  the  beach, 
returning  after  dark  to  the  city. 

On  Sunday  we  attended  service  at  a  great 
cathedral.  What  the  priest  said  was  "all 
Greek  "  to  us,  and  as  there  were  no  seats  we 
had  to  stand.  The  singing  was  very  queer, 
and  the  service  altogether  incomprehensible. 

In  the  afternoon  we  left  Athens,  not  with- 
out regret,  and  boarded  the  steamer  "  Yenus," 
which  was  to  carry  us  to  Brindisi. 


CORFU— BRINDISI— NAPLES— POMPEII. 

THE  weather  being  too  cool  to  allow  much 
time  spent  on  deck,  it  Avas  a  rather  monot- 
onous voyage  from  Athens  to  Brindisi.  How- 
ever, we  passed  the  two  days  pleasantly  loung- 
ing in  the  cabin. 

I  had  heard  and  read  all  my  life  of  glorious 
sunsetSjbut  had  never  imagined  that  any  thing 
could  be  half  so  beautiful  as  the  one  we  saw 
on  Tuesday  evening.  We  were  all  down  in 
the  saloon  reading  and  talking,  when  Mr. 
Dattari  called  for  lis  to  come  up  on  deck.  I 
went  immediately,  and  shall  always  be  glad  I 
did  not  wait  a  moment,  for  the  sun  went  down 
so  quickly  we  could  almost  see  it  drop.  The 
ship  was  in  a  kind  of  strait  or  pass,  with 
the  mountains  towering  up  on  all  sides.  At 
first  the  whole  scene  was  flooded  with  rose- 
colored  light,  and  away  off  in  the  distance 
(174) 


Corfu — Brindisi — Naples — Pompeii.     175 

could  be  seen  the  snow-covered  peaks,  while 
the  water  seemed  a  liquid,  ever-changing  rain- 
bow. The  sea  was  calm,  and  whei:e  the  prow 
of  our  vessel  glided  through  it  the  shining 
waves  flowed  out  on  either  side  like  the  long, 
graceful  folds  of  a  curtain,  caught  up  in  the 
centre,  and  each  fold  sparkling  and  glistening 
with  a  different  color.  As  the  great,  rosy  sun 
dropped  lower  and  lower  the  mountains 
changed  from  deep  pink  to  a  dark,  rich  pur- 
ple, and  their  shadows  stretched  farther  and 
farther  out  over  the  water,  which  continued 
to  reflect  all  the  colors  in  the  sky. 

It  was  a  sight  to  think  about,  dream  of,  and 
remember  always,  but  one  not  possible  to  de- 
scribe in  human  language.  That  sunset  was 
worth  going  to  Europe  to  see,  and  then  and 
there  I  felt  fully  repaid  for  all  the  fatigue 
and  discomforts  of  travel  by  that  one  glimpse 
into  what  a  possible  heaven  might  be. 

The  "Yenus"  landed  us  at  Corfu,  where 
we  were  accompanied  by  a  sanitary  officer  to 
another  steamer,  which  was  beautifully  fitted 
up,  and  altogether  a  charming  place  for  tired 


176  A  Girl's  Journey. 

and  hungry  travelers.  Mr.  Dattari  said:  "Of 
course  it  is  nice,  for  it  is  an  Italian  steamer." 

After  a  very  refreshing  night's  rest  we 
were  landed  safely  at  Brindisi,  whore  our 
courier's  time  expired,  but  he  kindly  consent- 
ed to  take  charge  of  us  a  little  farther,  so  that 
we  might  become  somewhat  accustomed  to 
Italian  ways  and  manners  before  being  thrown 
entirely  on  our  own  resources. 

Here  it  was  we  began  to  realize  that  w^e  lind 
reached  the  land  of  music.  The  first  thing  we 
heard  at  Brindisi  w^as  an  excellent  band,  and 
before  we  left  the  hotel  three  hand  organs 
played  for  us  under  the  windows. 

We  boarded  the  train  and  ran  along  the 
Adriatic  all  day  as  far  as  Foggia;  there 
changed  cars  and  went  straight  across  the 
peninsula.  As  the  moon  was  full,  we  had  a 
fine  view  of  the  Apennines  while  crossing 
over  them. 

Reaching  Naples  at  ten  o'clock  that  night, 
we  drove  to  the  Hotel  D'Etrangers,  which 
was  delightfully  situated  on  the  bay,  with 
Vesuvius  smoking  away  in  the  distance,  and 


Corfu — Brindisi — Naples — Pompeii.     177 

were  very  much  impressed  with  our  first  view, 
by  moonlight,  of  this  formidable  old  mountain. 
Next  day  tlie  weather  was  so  threatening 
that  we  postponed  our  visit  to  Pompeii,  and 
went  instead  to  the  museum,  where  the  things 
excavated  from  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum 
are  exhibited.  Some  of  it  was  very  interest- 
ing, and  we  were  highly  entertained,  but  we 
had  seen  so  many  museums  (about  fifteen,  I 
believe)  that  we  girls  were  hardly  as  enthusi- 
astic as  we  might  have  been.  AVe  were  tired 
of  old  headless  and  armless  statues,  and  as 
for  broken  pottery,  we  had  seen  enough  to 
fill  up  a  small  lake!  Mary  Green  said  she 
"had  seen  mummies  until  she  was  mum,'^  and 
as  for  pictures,  the  supply  seemed  inexhaust- 
ible! However,  we  managed  to  get  a  good 
deal  of  information  as  well  as  fun  out  of  it  all, 
while  some  of  the  rest  were  going  into  rapt- 
ures over  the  old  things.  We  were  careful 
not  to  miss  any  thing  really  important,  but 
museums  are  all  very  much  alike,  and  after 
the  great  "British  Museum"  the  others  seem 
just  a  little  tame, 
12 


Corfu  —Brhidisl — Naples — Pompeii     179 

The  afternoon  was  spent  in-doors,  where  we 
entertained  ourselves  watching  the  storm. 
Such  a  fury  the  waves  were  in  as  they  dashed 
their  snowy  spray  high  into  the  air,  and  lashed 
and  beat  themselves  against  the  rugged  walls 
of  the  old  Egg  Castle,  which  stood  on  a  point 
projecting  out  into  the  water  just  within  sight 
of  our  window^s!  We  congratulated  ourselves 
upon  being  safe  on  land  just  then,  instead  of 
at  the  mercy  of  that  angry  sea.  The  w^ater 
possessed  a  strange  fascination  for  me,  and  I 
never  missed  an  opportunity  of  Avatching  the 
breakers  and  listening  to  their  weird  music. 

That  night  Mr.  Dattari  left  us,  as  it  was 
necessary  for  him  to  go  on  to  Florence.  It 
was  a  sad  leave-taking,  for  we  knew  how  much 
we  would  miss  him,  as  he  had  been,  besides 
a  most  efficient  courier,  a  cheery,  intelligent 
traveling  companion.  We  parted  with  mutual 
regret, and  with  the  hope  of  meeting  again  be- 
fore our  return  to  America. 

Next  day  the  snn  shone  beautifully,  giving 
us  at  last  an  opportunity  to  visit  the  ruins  of 
Pompeii.     The  ride  on  the  cars  was  pleasant, 


180  A  Girl 's  Jonrney. 

partly  along  the  sea-shore,  with  a  view  of 
Vesuvius  unobscured  by  the  clouds  and  mist 
of  the  preceding  day;  there  he  was,  in  all  his 
glory,  calmly  pulling  out  smoke,  and  looking  as 
quiet  and  innocent  as  any  ordinary  little  hill. 

On  arriving  at  Pompeii  the  first  thing  to  be 
seen  was  the  museum,  which  contained  many 
curious  things  dug  from  the  buried  city. 
There  were  several  human  bodies,  seemingly 
petrified,  with  the  faces  terribly  drawn  and 
contorted  by  the  sufferings  endured  by  the 
poor  creatures;  also  a  dog,  a  chicken,  and 
numbers  of  skeletons,  statues,  paintings, 
household  utensils,  etc. 

The  streets  of  the  city  were,  most  of  them, 
about  as  wide  as  an  ordinary  hall-way,  and  in 
the  flag-stones  were  still  to  be  seen  the  ruts 
worn  by  cart-wheels  more  than  eighteen  hun- 
dred years  ago.  At  the  corner  of  each  street 
there  was  in  those  days  a  gong,  which  the 
driver  sounded  as  a  signal  to  other  drivers  to 
wait  until  he  had  driven  out,  as  the  streets 
were  not  wide  enough  for  two  vehicles  to  pass 
each  other. 


Co);fH--Brm(lm--Nc(pI('s— Pompeii     181 


We  visited  the  houses  of  Diomede,  Sallust, 
and  tlie  Dauciug  Faun,  besides  peeping  into 
various  temples,  public  buildings,  chemists' 
shops,  confectioneries,  butchers'  stalls,  bakers' 
establishments,  etc.  The  mosaics  were  beau- 
tiful. One  that  especially  attracted  my  atten- 
tion was  the  figure  of  a  large  dog,  lying  just 
inside  the  front  door  of  one  of  the  houses,  and 
written  under  it  this  inscription:  "Beware  of 
the  dog." 

.We  climbed  up  into  the  ruins  of  the  old 
theater,  and,  seating  ourselves  in  the  "pea- 
nut gallery,"  as  Susie  called  it,  had  a  fine 
view  of  the  city— a  sad  but  wonderful  sight. 

On  our  return  we  passed  the  village  built  on 
the  spot  where  Herculaneum  is  buried,  but  the 
excavations  there  do  not  amount  to  much. 

Sunday  was  anotlier  disagreeable  day,  but 
we  managed  to  attend  service  three  times- 
first  at  the  cathedral,  the  most  brilliantly 
colored  church  we  had  seen,  and  then  at  a 
smaller  and  less  pretentious  building. 

We  stopped  for  a  short  while  at  St.  Paul's, 
just  across  the  square  from  the  palace,  the 


182  A  Gh'VH  Journey. 

place  where  the  kings  of  Naples  formerly  wor- 
shiped. 

The  sei-vices  were  all  conducted  in  Latin  and 
Italian,  so  we  did  not  feel  much  benefited,  be- 
ing still  hiDujry  for  a  real  (English)  gospel 
sermon. 

Monday  morning  we  drove  around  the  city, 
stopping  first  at  a  private  chapel  (St  Severi), 
where  was  some  fine  statuary.  Among  other 
pieces  was  The  Veiled  Christ,  and  a  veiled  fig- 
ure  of  Modesty,  both  of  which  we  admired 
greatly. 

Next  we  drove  to  the  Monastery  of  St.  Mar- 
tin, or  San  Martino,  as  they  call  it.  This  is 
now  used  as  a  museum,  and  is  an  interesting 
place,  full  of  fine  Venetian-glass  mirrors,  can- 
delabra, and  table-ware;  tortoise-shell  cabi- 
nets and  boxes,  queer  old  china,  pictures  on 
silk,  and  a  bewildering  variety  of  beautiful 
and  curious  things.  The  chapel  was  magnifi- 
cent. The  walls  were  of  the  most  exquisite 
mosaics,  the  floor  of  marble  of  different  kinds 
and  colors,  and  the  ceiling  elaborately  fres- 
coed.    The  altar  was  of  fine  marble  and  pre- 


Corfu— Brindisi— Naples-— rompeii.     183 


cious  stones,  among  wliicli  were  several  pieces 
of  lapis  lazuli,  and  some  immense  amethysts. 
On  the  ceiling  of  one  of  the  side-chapels  was 
a  picture  of  some  one  of  the  saints,  which  was 
peculiar  in  that  the  feet  of  the  figure  were  al- 
ways turned  toward  the  visitor,  or  seemed  to 
be,  in  whatever  part  of  the  room  he  might 
stand.  It  was  a  queer  effect  in  perspective. 
The  whole  structure  was  a  mass  of  gold  and 
rare  stones,  and  was  the  most  elaborate  thing 
of  the  kind  we  had  seen. 

In  the  afternoon  we  ladies  went  shopping, 
and  had  some  funny  times  trying  to  make  the 
clerks  understand  what  we  wanted.  Some  of 
the  party  talked  very  loud,  as  though  the  peo- 
ple were  deaf,  and  when  that  failed  they  took 
refuge  in  signs.  In  the  shops  w^ere  a  great 
many  beautiful  articles  carved  out  of  lava, 
coral  jewelry,  shell-work,  and  many  things  of 
tortoise-shell. 

A  pleasant  drive  was  taken  out  to  the  tomb 
of  Virgil,  and  from  there  we  had  a  fine  view  of 
the  far-famed  Bay  of  Naples,  the  most  beau- 
tiful,  I  suppose,  in  all  the  world.    We  were  so 


184  A  Girl 's  Journey, 

charmed  with  its  loveliness  that  we  were  re- 
luctant to  descend  the  long  flight  of  steps  to 
the  city  again. 

The  tomb  of  Italy's  great  poet  is  in  a  quiet, 
shady  place  on  the  top  of  a  hill,  and  the  grave 
is  marked  by  a  simple  slab.  We  gathered 
some  laurel-leaves  from  a  small  tree,  and  also 
found  some  tiny  oranges  growing  near  by. 

Next  day  we  made  an  excursion  out  to  Vir- 
gil's country,  visited  Lake  Avernus,  and  went 
into  the  Sibyl's  Cave,  which  has  been  explored 
to  the  distance  of  three  miles.  We  walked  in 
until  a  little  passage  was  reached,  branching 
off  from  the  main  one,  when  our  guide  took 
the  lead,  Mr.  Eastman  following  another 
guide,  while  Mary  Green  and  I  brought  up 
the  rear,  the  rest  of  the  party  going  round 
another  way.  After  proceeding  for  a  short 
distance  along  this  passage,  which  was  so  nar- 
row there  was  scarcely  room  for  us  to  walk, 
the  guide  in  front  motioned  for  me  to  get  on 
his  back.  I  looked  down  and  discovered  that 
we  had  reached  water.  While  I  was  protest- 
ing against  this  strange  mode  of  locomotion, 


Corfu — Brindisi — Naples — Pompeii.     185 

the  light  iu  front  disappeared,  and  we  were  left 
in  total  darkness.  Finally,  the  man  picked 
me  up  and  waded  iu.  I  thought  Mary  Green 
was  being  left  there  entirely  alone,  and  she 
thought  so  too,  so  we  both  set  up  a  tremen- 
dous yell,  and  I  tell  you  we  made  those  old 
rocks  ring.  By  this  time  the  water  was  up  to 
the  man's  waist,  and  I  was  terrified  almost  be- 
yond expression.  After  awhile  we  reached  a 
room  called  the  Sibyl's  Chamber,  and  there, 
perched  on  a  rock  shelf — the  water  in  the  room 
being  two  or  three  feet  deep — I  was  delighted 
to  find  Mr.  Eastman,  who  had  preceded  us. 
Soon  Mrs.  Eastman  came  riding  in  on  a  man- 
steedy  and  the  guides  explained  the  sights  to 
us.  They  showed  us  the  orifice  in  the  wall 
through  which  the  sibyl  delivered  the  oracles 
written  on  leaves,  as  the  students  of  Yirgil 
will  remember. 

It  seems  that  somebody  had  come  and  taken 
Mary  Green  back,  and  Mrs.  Eastman  conclud- 
ed to  try  it  in  her  stead.  I  do  not  fancy  rid- 
ing on  a  man's  back,  especially  when  he  is 
wading  in  water  above  his  knees  in  the  dark. 


186  A  GirVs  Jouniei/. 

The  explanation  of  the  water  in  the  cave  is 
that  the  place  is  below  the  level  of  the  lake, 
and  when  it  is  full  the  cave  is  partially  inun- 
dated. 

We  visited  Nero's  baths,  another  sort  of 
cave,  containing  a  spring,  the  water  of  which 
was  so  hot  that  we  cooked  an  egg  in  it;  then 
went  to  Solfatara,  a  volcano  said  to  be  con- 
nected with  Vesuvius.  In  one  place  the  smoke 
was  pouring  forth,  and  the  steam  was  hot 
enough  to  burn  the  hand;  in  others  the  ground 
was  hot,  and  sounded  hollow  when  struck. 

I  picked  up  some  lava  that  came  out  of  the 
crater,  also  some  sulphur  and  arsenic,  which 
was  too  hot  to  hold  in  my  naked  hand.  On 
the  way  back  we  saw  some  peasant  women 
dance  the  tarantelle  to  the  music  of  a  tam- 
bourine in  the  Temple  of  Mercury,  where  was 
also  a  fine  echo.  We  decided  not  to  try  to 
make  the  ascent  of  Vesuvius,  as  the  mist  and 
clouds  would  have  obscured  the  view. 

It  was  a  grand  sight  indeed  to  watch  the  old 
mountain  after  dark,  when  he  donned  his  red 
night-cap  of  glowing  smoke,  and  calmly  stood 


Corfu— Brindisi— Naples— Pompeii.     187 


guard  over  the  beautiful  city  sleeping  far  be- 
low. 

The  flowers  were  abundant  in  Naples.  We 
saw  great  baskets  of  what  with  us  are  the  rar- 
est hot-house  plants  sold  for  ten  and  twenty- 
cents,  and  you  may  be  sure  we  reveled  in  them 
all  the  time  we  were  there. 

All  pleasant  things  must  have  an  end,  and 
so  we  bade  farewell  to  charming.  Naples,  won- 
dering no  longer  that  the  Neapolitans  say: 
"See  Naples  and  die!" 


ROME— CHRISTMAS 

AVERY  modern-looking  railroad  train  car- 
ried us  whizzing  across  the  country  and 
landed  us  finally  at  a  decidedly  modern-look- 
ing station,  in  a  great,  roaring  city  that  they 
told  us  was  Rome.  I  must  confess  to  a  lit- 
tle disappointment  at  not  catching  at  least  a 
glimpse  of  some  of  the  "  Roman  antiquities  " 
on  our  first  view  of  this  the  once  *'  mistress  of 
the  world."  How  could  this  noisy,  bustling 
place  be  the  "  Eternal  City,"  of  whose  ancient 
grandeur  I  had  read  and  studied  with  such 
absorbing  interest  ?  Who  would  go  to  Rome  to 
see  glittering  shops,  street  railways,  elevators, 
and  other  such  innovations  of  these  latter 
times? 

We  were  at  the  Continental  Hotel,  and  had 
very  nice  rooms  up  on  the  fifth  or  sixth  floor. 

On  Sunday  morning  we  engaged  cabs  and 
(188) 


Borne — Christmas.  189 

drove  out  over  a  very  handsome  bridge  lined 
witii  huge  statues  across  the  "  Yellow  Tiber," 
past  the  tomb  of  Hadrian  to  the  giant  of  all 
the  churches — "  St.  Peter's."  After  listening 
to  some  singing  in  one  of  the  chapels,  we  wan- 
dered about  over  the  superb  building,  wonder- 
ing and  admiring,  for  its  splendor  far  sur- 
passed any  thing  we  had  seen. 

AVe  stood  for  some  time  near  the  bronze 
statue  of  St.  Peter  (which,  by  the  way,  is  by 
many  thought  to  be  that  of  Jupiter  Olympus, 
instead  of  that  of  the  saint),  and  watched  the 
people  as  they  came  to  kiss  the  toe,  which  is  al- 
most worn  away  by  this  childish  //^J-devotion. 
The  peasant  girls,  after  wiping  off  the  foot 
with  their  handkerchiefs,  would  press  their 
lips  and  then  their  foreheads  to  it  several 
times.  I  saw  nearly  a  hundred  people  go 
through  with  this  ceremony  while  standing 
there.  Kough,  common-looking  men,  elegant- 
ly-dressed ladies,  small  boys  and  girls,  while 
occasionally  a  little  dark-eyed  baby  would  be 
held  up  to  press  its  innocent  lips  to  the  toe  of 
the  statue. 


190  A  GirVs  Jonrney. 

Tlio  size  of  the  building  grows  upon  one 
constantly.  To  give  some  faint  idea  of  its 
immensity,  one  of  the  side  -  chaj^els  (which 
looks  quite  small  and  insignificant,  and  of 
which  there  are  a  great  number),  ITnde  Eob- 
ert  found  by  stepping  it  off  to  be  as  large  as 
McKendree  Church,  in  Xashville.  The  mar- 
ble-work, paintings,  and  statues  were  all  so 
handsome  that  the  other  churches  we  had  seen 
were  completely  thrown  into  the  shade. 

On  the  way  home  a  man  proposed  to  sell 
me  "the  whole  of  Eome  "  for  only  half  a  franc 
(photographs,  you  understand), but  I  told  him 
I  was  not  in  the  habit  of  buying  things  on  Sun- 
day. We  w^ould  never  have  imagined  it  the 
Sabbath-day,  with  the  shops  open,  people  at 
work,  and  every  thing  going  on  exactly  as  on 
other  days. 

The  stores  were  nothing  like  as  handsome 
as  those  in  Naples,  and  there  did  not  seem  to 
be  half  so  much  "  Christmas  in  the  air,"  for  it 
was  at  this  time  only  a  few  days  until  the 
holidays.  In  fact,  w^e  had  all  fallen  in  love 
with  Naples,  and  it  was  hard  to  find  another 


Borne — Christmas,  191 

city  as  beautiful  and  bright,  with  its  gay  shops, 
exquisite  flowers,  and  crowning  glory  of  the 
bay. 

On  our  hotel  register  were  the  names  of  a 
number  of  barons,  lords,  and  ladies — most  of 
them,  I  think,  belonging  to  the  English  aris- 
tocracy. 

While  Mary  Green  and  I  were  in  the  read- 
ing-room one  morning  somebody  walked  in 
and  spoke  to  us.  It  i)roved  to  be  Mr.  Carmi- 
chael,  our  young  Scotch  friend  who  was  with 
us  from  Jaffa  to  Jericho.  He  had  juSt  re- 
turned from  a  trip  up  the  Nile,  and  was  on  his 
way  home  to  Glasgow. 

The  principal  street  in  Rome  was  the  Corso, 
about  thirty  feet  wide,  with  sidewalks  (when 
there  were  such  conveniences)  so  narrow  that 
two  people  could  not  pass  comfortably. 

Tuesday  morning  we  went  to  the  Vatican, 
and,  as  Mark  Twain  says,  "found  it  truly  a 
wonderful  world  of  curiosities."  I  cannot  tell 
you  half  we  saw— Apollo  Belvidere,  Michael 
Angelo's  "Last  Judgment,"  the  finest  fresco 
in  the  world,  the  "  Transfiguration,"  Raphael's 


192  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

last  great  picture,  the  "Laocooii,"  besides  in- 
numerable other  beautiful  pictures  and  stat- 
ues by  the  world's  greatest  masters — enough 
to  bewilder  any  ordinary  mortal. 

A  magnificent  gallery  was  being  decorated 
by  the  present  pope.  The  ceiling  was  exquis- 
itely painted,  the  floor  laid  in  all  kinds  and 
colors  of  lovely  marbles,  while  the  walls  were 
an  artistic  study  in  themselves.  In  one  place 
was  an  immense  piece  of  lapis  lazuli,  as  large 
as  the  top  of  a  barrel.  Just  think  of  a  palace 
with  *  more  than  ten  thousand  rooms !  We 
walked  through  miles  of  picture  and  sculpture 
galleries,  seeing  as  much  of  it  as  we  could, 
and,  as  our  friend  Mr.  Gorman  said,  "  leaving 
the  rest  for  posterity."  In  the  salon,  or  hall, 
were  a  great  many  magnificent  vases  and  jars 
which  had  been  presented  to  the  popes  by  va- 
rious monarchs. 

We  were  delighted  that  evening  at  receiving 
the  home  mail  and,  besides  letters  and  papers, 
some  pretty  Christmas  cards  and  books,  show- 
ing that,  though  so  far  away,  we  were  "  yet  re- 
membered." 


Rome — Ch  ristmas.  193 

After  a  visit  to  the  Baibarina  Palace,  where 
the  principal  thing  to  be  seen  was  the  cele- 
brated picture,  "  Beatrice  Cenci,"  and  to  the 
Church  of  St.  John  Lateran,  we  went  to  see 
the  Santa  Seala,  a  marble  stair-way,  said  to  be 
the  identical  steps  the  Saviour  ascended  at  the 
entrance  of  Pilate's  house  in  Jerusalem.  At 
all  hours  of  the  day  numbers  of  devout  Cath- 
olics may  be  seen  climbing  these  stairs  on 
their  knees — nobody  being  allowed  to  walk  up 
—  saying  a  prayer  on  each  step,  then  walking 
down  one  of  the  stair-ways  placed  on  each  side. 
The  marble  steps  are  covered  with  wood  to 
keep  them  from  being  worn  away,  and  at  the 
top  are  pictures  of  our  Saviour  and  the  Virgin. 

We  were  much  amused  at  the  ignorance  as 
to  American  manners  and  customs  displayed 
in  conversation  by  some  of  the  English  peo- 
ple we  met  at  the  hotel.  One  lady  remarked 
very  seriously  that  she  had  a  friend  whose 
son  had  gone  over  to  Vii'ginia,  and  they  were 
all  very  uneasy  about  him.  "When  we  in- 
quired the  reason,   she  asked:  "Why,   don't 

you  suppose  the  Indians  will  kill  him  ?  "     She 
13 


(1!U) 


Borne — Christmas.  195 

wanted  to  know  "  where  Virginia  was  anyhow, 
and  if  the  people  there  were  civilized.''  She 
had  never  heard  of  the  Mammoth  Cave,  and 
was  evidently  quite  as  ignorant  of  Niagara 
Falls. 

At  the  Church  of  "St.  Peter  in  Chains," 
was  exhibited  Michael  Angelo's  celebrated 
statue  of  Moses,  and  it  was  indeed  a  grand 
conception. 

From  there  we  drove  out  to  the  Coliseum, 
that  wonderful  old  amphitheater  which  once 
accommodated  betw^een  eighty  and  one  hun- 
dred thousand  spectators,  and  which  has  since 
been  used  for  so  many  purposes — at  one  time 
as  a  stronghold,  then  as  a  hospital,  after  that 
for  a  salt  depot,  a  storage  place  for  wool,  and 
lastly  as  a  quarry,  for  no  less  than  seven  large 
palaces  in  Rome  have  been  built  of  stones 
taken  from  this  marvelous  ruin. 

After  seeing  the  remains  of  the  baths  of 
Caracalla,  which  formerly  had  accommoda- 
tions for  one  thousand  six  hundred  bath- 
ers, we  passed  the  spot  where  the  "  rape  of 
the  Sabine  women  "  occurred,  and  also  went 


196  A  Girl 's  Jourmnj. 


through  the  place  where  the  Circus  Maximus 
stood. 

We  visited  the  Roman  Forum,  saw  the 
Arches  of  Titus,  Septimus  Severus,  besides 
the  remains  of  the  Temples  of  Mercury,  Sat- 
urn, Eomulus,  and  the  Vestal  Virgins.  Driv- 
ing back  through  the  Corso,  Ave  passed  the 
Column  of  Trajan,  where  numbers  of  cats  could 
be  seen  sleeping  in  perfect  security,  basking 
in  the  sun;  also  the  Column  of  Severus,  and 
the  fine  old  fountain  of  Trevi,  which  I  suppose 
must  be  the  largest,  or  one  of  the  largest,  in 
the  world. 

Friday  afternoon  at  two  o'clock  we  attended 
vespers  in  the  Church  of  Santa  Maria  Mag- 
giore.  There  was  quite  a  long  procession  of 
priests,  choir  -  boys  carrying  candles,  and, 
greatest  of  all,  the  bishop,  robed  in  gorgeous 
silks  heavy  with  gold  embroidery,  and  his  fin- 
gers so  loaded  with  jewels  that  I  think  he  could 
not  have  closed  his  hands. 

As  the  long  line  filed  past  us,  one  of  the 
priests  caught  the  gold  lace  of  his  coat  on  the 
fastening  of  Susie's  cloak,  and  the  whole  pro- 


Borne — Chrisfmas.  197 

cession  had  to  stop  for  liim  to  release  himself, 
while  Susie's  face  grew  redder  and  redder.  It 
seemed  that  she  was  unfortunate  where  priests 
and  monkeys  were  concerned. 

The  music  was  grand,  and,  though  we  could 
not  understand  the  service,  it  was  solemn  and 
impressive. 

Susie  and  I  distinguished  ourselves  by  our 
purchase  of  Christmas  goodies.  We  bought 
a  lot  of  small  things  thinking  they  were  egg 
kisses,  but  they  turned  out  to  be  sandwiches; 
then  our  fruit-cake  was  the  most  remarkable 
piece  of  confectionery  imaginable — tasted  like 
tallow,  and  was  so  tough  that  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  eat  it;  but  the  fruit,  nuts,  and  candies 
were  all  right,  and  we  enjoyed  our  feast  af- 
ter all. 

On  Christmas-eve  we  gathered  around  the 
fire  in  our  sitting-room,  and  spent  the  time  in 
conversation,  partaking  of  refreshments  — 
which  we  girls  served  in  fine  style  in  courses 
— and  singing  hymns,  closing  with  "America." 

On  Christmas  moruing,  after  exchanging 
the  merry  "Christmas  gift,"  we  went  through 


198  A  GirVs  Journey. 

a  pouring  rain  to  St.  Peter's,  where  we  found 
services  being  conducted  at  nineteen  of  tiie 
twenty-four  altars,  with  singing  and  prayers 
going  on,  and  no  one  of  fhciu  interfering  with 
the  ofJiers.  Think  what  the  size  of  the  church 
must  have  been!  Of  course  the  music  was 
grand,  there  being  two  or  three  large  pipe 
organs.  We  heard  several  exquisite,  pure, 
high,  soprano  voices,  which  I  was  with  diffi- 
culty persuaded  to  believe  belonged  to  men 
and  boys,  there  being  no  women  in  the  choirs. 

The  priests  were  on  hand  again  in  their 
magnificent  robes,  making  a  gorgeous  display. 

In  the  afternoon,  while  Uncle  Eobert  and 
Aunt  Anna  were  out,  we  girls  concluded  to 
prepare  a  surprise  for  them  on  their  return; 
so  cut  "  Merry  Xmas  "  out  of  paper,  pinned  it 
on  a  long  red  veil,  and  hung  it  over  the  fire- 
place, arranged  our  photographs  on  the  wall 
below,  and  festooned  them  with  bright  rib- 
bons, placed  Christmas  cards  on  the  mantel, 
filled  in  the  space  with  oranges,  and  illuminat- 
ed the  whole  with  all  our  candles,  making  it 
look  quite  gay  and  festive;  then  donned  our 


Home — Christmas.  199 

"best  bibs  and  tuckers,"  and  gave  them  a 
hearty  Christmas  greeting  as  they  came  in. 
It  was  all  very  enjoyable,  and  served  to  remind 
us  of  otir  happy  home-gatherings  in  far-away 
Tennessee. 

On  descending  to  the  dining-room,  we  found 
it  prettily  decorated,  and  an  elegant  dinner 
of  ten  or  twelve  courses  awaiting  us.  A  very 
attractive  dish  was  a  fowl  that  looked  like  a 
pheasant;  brought  on  with  the  bright  plumage 
still  in  place.  After  it  had  graced  the  table 
for  awhile  it  was  removed,  the  feathers  taken 
off,  and  the  delicious  meat,  juicy  and  brown, 
served  to  the  guests.  The  crowning  piece 
was  an  immense  plum-pudding  enveloped  in 
blue  blazes,  and  suggestive  of  ''Merry  Old 
England."  Thus  we  celebrated  our  first  and 
(I  i)resume)  our  last  Christmas  in  Eome. 

The  next  day,  being  Sunday,  we  started  out 
to  walk  to  the  Scotch  Presbyterian  Church; 
but,  failing  to  find  it,  attended  service  at  St. 
Paul's,  an  American  Episcopal  chapel,  where 
Dr.  Nevin  preached  a  very  fine  sermon.  The 
church   was   festooned   with   evergreens   and 


200  A  Girl's  Journey. 


flowers,  aud  we  gre»itly  enjoyed  the  services  in 
Englisli  and  the  familiar  hymns. 

In  the  afternoon  we  elbowed  our  way 
through  immense  throngs  of  people  to  the 
Church  of  St.  John  Lateran,  where  we  again 
heard  some  fine  music. 

Next  day  we  took  a  drive  outside  the  city 
walls,  along  the  Appian  Way,  stopping  at  a 
house  which  had  been  excavated  near  the 
baths  of  Caracalla,  and  at  the  Columbarium, 
where  the  ashes  of  the  pagans  were  once  de- 
posited in  urns,  and  these  placed  in  niches, 
inside  the  wall.  One  of  the  rooms  contained 
the  dust  of  one  thousand  people,  and  looked, 
as  its  name  implies,  like  a  great  x^igeon-house. 
Next  we  visited  the  Catacombs  of  St.  Sebas- 
tian, and,  supplied  with  little  candles,  walked 
through  passage  after  passage  lined  with  cav- 
ities containing  the  bones  of  seventy-six  thou- 
sand Christians  and  martyrs. 

On  the  way  back  home  a  horse  in  one  of  tlie 
vehicles  began  to  kick,  and  got  his  leg  fast- 
ened in  the  harness,  throwing  him  down. 
Mary  Green  and  the  other  ladies  in  the  car- 


Borne — Christmas.  201 

riage  jumped  out,  and  Miss  T.,  a  young  girl 
who  had  joined  our  party  for  the  d;iy,  was  so 
much  frightened  that  she  jumped  over  two 
fences  and  climbed  a  hill  without  stopping, 
and  it  was  some  time  before  she  could  be  in- 
duced to  return.  Finally,  they  got  the  horse 
on  his  feet  again,  and  we  continued  on  our 
way,  returning  ])y  the  Via  Latina,  stopping  to 
examine  two  tombs  which  had  been  excavated, 
and  in  which  the  frescoes  and  stucco  were 
very  well  preserved.  On  the  ceiling  and 
walls  of  one  the  whole  history  of  the  Trojan 
War  was  illustrated.  In  the  floor  was  a  deep 
well,  into  which  the  human  ashes  used  to  be 
thrown.  We  also  saw  an  ancient  sarcophagus 
with  some  bones  in  it. 

After  lunch  we  visited  the  Capuchin  Mon- 
astery, one  of  the  greatest  curiosities  in  all 
Eome.  There  were  four  rooms  in  a  row,  open- 
ing into  each  other,  and  all  decorated  with 
the  most  beautiful  and  artistic  designs  in  hu- 
man hones — beautiful  wreaths,  frescoes,  hang- 
ing baskets  made  of  little  finger  and  toe  bones, 
pyramids  and  arches  of  skulls  and  thigh-bones, 


202  A  GirVsJoimmj. 

while  ill  fancy  recesses  were  numerous  grin- 
ning skeletons  of  monks,  dressed  in  their 
robes  and  cowls,  standing  and  lying  in  various 
positions.  If  I  could  only  have  lost  sight  of 
the  fact  that  they  were  the  bones  of  fellow- 
creatures,  it  would  have  been  really  beautiful. 
The  monks  were  once  buried  in  the  floors  of 
the  rooms,  which  were  filled  with  earth  brought 
from  the  Holy  Land,  and,  after  their  bodies 
had  remained  in  the  ground  a  certain  length 
of  time,  were  removed  to  make  room  for  oth- 
ers, and  the  bones  used  for  decorations.  The 
Government  does  not  allow  them  to  be  buried 
there  now,  however,  and  this  strange  custom 
has  come  to  an  end. 

Aunt  Anna  and  Mary  Green  then  went 
shopping,  while  Susie  and  I  returned  to  the 
hotel,  and  spent  the  afternoon  very  profitably 
letting  out  dresses;  for  traveling  had  agreed 
with  us  so  well  that  nearly  all  the  clothes 
we  brought  with  us  had  become  distressingly 
tight. 

Our  next  sight-seeing  was  a  visit  to  the 
Capitol,  where  in  one  room  were  the  "  Marble 


Borne — Christmas.  203 

Faun,"  tlie  "Dying  Gladiator,"  and  the  ''An- 
tinoos;"  ^v'e  also  went  to  the  Palace  Doria, 
the  Farnese  Palace,  where  are  Raphael's  cel- 
ebrated frescoes,  and  attended  service  on  New- 
year's-day  at  the  Church  of  the  Jesuits,  where 
they  sung  the  "Te  Deum  "  and  the  "Benedic- 
tus."  In  this  church,  over  one  of  the  altars, 
is  placed  the  largest  piece  of  lapis  lazuli  in  the 
world.  The  whole  building  was  brilliant  with 
more  than  a  thousand  candles,  and  it  w^as 
filled  with  an  immense  crowd  of  people. 

AYe  girls  carried  some  rosaries  to  St.  Peter's 
Church,  and  dipped  them  into  the  holy  water 
fount,  intending  them  as  presents  for  Catholic 
friends  at  home.  From  the  highest  gallery 
inside  the  cupola  we  looked  down  into  the 
church,  w^here  the  people  walking  about  so  far 
below  appeared  no  larger  than  insects. 

We  also  visited  the  Quirinal  Palace — home 
of  Humbert,  King  of  Italy.  The  royal  stables 
w^ere  magnificent,  and  we  saw  quantities  of 
gold  and  silver  mounted  harness,  splendid  car- 
riages, and  state  turn-outs,  besides  numbers  of 
fine  horses  and  ponies. 


204  A  GirVs  Jounicfj. 

Aunt  Anna  and  I  drove  out  to  see  an  Amer- 
ican lady,  Mrs.  Porter,  an  aunt  of  my  friend 
Miss  Mamie  Black,  of  Columbia.  We  found 
quite  a  little  company  assembled  in  her  cozy 
apartments,  chatting  and  drinking  tea.  After 
a  pleasant  visit  we  received  an  urgent  invita- 
tion to  attend  an  art  reception  to  be  given  to 
an  American  girl,  who  had  made  a  good  rep- 
utation as  a  sculptress,  and  who  was  to  exhibit 
on  this  occasion  her  latest  piece  of  statuary. 

The  Church  of  St.  Paul's,  outside  the  city, 
was  one  of  the  handsomest  we  saw,  and  as 
beautiful,  in  a  good  many  respects,  as  St.  Pe- 
ter's, with  its  six  columns  of  alabaster,  its  su- 
perb altar  of  gold  and  malachite,  and  the  aft- 
ernoon sun  sending  its  slanting  rays  through 
the  richly-colored  windows,  tinting  with  purple 
and  crimson  its  marble  pillars  and  highly- 
polished  mosaic  floor. 

AVe  carried  every  thing  we  had  purchased 
so  far  to  one  of  the  agencies,  where  they  were 
packed  to  send  to  London;  then  went  into  sev- 
eral shops  and  saw  them  making  Roman  pearls 
from  alabaster;   in  another  place  they  were 


Rome — Christmas.  205 


weaving  lovely  silk  scarfs,  and  we  brought 
away  with  ns  souvenirs  of  each. 

After  lunch  on  Tuesday  we  went  to  the 
Church  of  Aracoeli,  the  home  of  the  "Bam- 
bino." Here  are  brought  people  who  are 
maimed  or  diseased,  deluded  with  the  belief 
that  relief  is  to  be  had  by  looking  at  or  touch- 
ing the  little  wax  image  of  the  Holy  Child. 
A  tiny  girl  recited  a  long  piece  in  Italian 
about  the  "  Bambino," 'which  was  unintelligi- 
ble to  us. 

After  visiting  the  Church  of  Santa  Maria, 
which  is  built  over  the  remains  of  the  house 
where  the  Apostle  Paul  lived  for  two  years,  we 
returned  to  the  hotel,  packed  our  valises,  and 
made  ready  to  end  our  sojourn  of  several  de- 
lightful weeks  in  the  Eternal  City. 


FLORENCE. 

WE  left  Rome  at  twelve  o'clock,  and  arrived 
iu  Florence  at  seven.  Next  day  it  rained; 
consequently  we  only  caught  glimpses  of  "La 
Bella  Firenze  "  through  the  windows. 

We  had  engaged  board  this  time  at  a  pen- 
sion,  or  private  boarding-house,  kept  by  an 
American  lady,  Madam  McNamee,  whose  hus- 
band was  a  sculptor. 

The  house  was  originally  a  palace,  and  in 
one  of  its  rooms  George  Eliot  wrote  "Ro- 
mola."  Among  tlie  guests  were  Madam  Ne- 
vada, the  sweet  songstress  of  California,  and 
her  husband.  Several  of  the  other  inmates 
were  Americans,  and  it  was  quite  a  comfort  to 
hear  English  spoken  once  more. 

We  girls  were  amused  and  rather  disgusted 

one  day  at  twelve  o'clock,  Avhen  a  very  young 

red  -  headed    Englishman    lounged    into   the 
(206) 


Florence,  207 


drawing-room  on  his  way  to  breakfast,  and 
announced  with  a  yawn  that  he  "  was  up  late 
at  a  darnce  Jarxt  night." 

We  visited  first  the  Pitti  Palace,  the  home 
of  King  Humbert  during  his  visits  to  Flor- 
ence; walked  through  its  galleries  of  beauti- 
ful pictures  and  statues,  saw  the  splendid 
mosaics,  and  were  allowed  to  enter  the  king's 
private  apartments,  which  were  superbly  fitted 
up  with  every  imaginable  luxury  and  conven- 
ience. 

The  Duomo,  or  cathedral,  is  quite  a  hand- 
some church  from  the  outside,  with  its  im- 
mense dome,  said  to  be  larger  than  that  of  St. 
Peter's  at  Eome;  but  the  inside  seemed  to  me 
rather  plain  compared  to  some  we  had  seen 
elsewhere.  However,  it  was  adorned  with 
many  fine  pictures  and  statues  by  the  world's 
greatest  masters.  The  bronze  doors  of  the 
Baptistery  v%-ell  deserve  the  compliment  paid 
them  by  Michael  Angelo,  who  said  they 
were  "fit  to  be  the  doors  of  paradise."  It  is 
to  this  Baptistery  that  the  Italian  babies  are 
brought  when  only  a  few  days  old  to  have  salt 


208  A  Girl 's  Journey. 


put  on  their  tongues,  and  their  bodi('s  anoint- 
ed with  oil  before  being  dipped  into  the  bap- 
tismal font. 

Eeturning  to  tlie  2)e)ision  one  day,  we  found 
extensive  preparations  made  for  a  masked  ball 
to  be  given  to  the  boarders  that  night.  The 
stars  and  stripes  were  floating  bravely  beside 
the  Italian  colors  over  the  staircase;  and  the 
drawing-room  was  cleared  and  canvased  for 
dancing.  We  girls  were  cordially  invited  to 
take  part,  but,  having  no  desire  or  inclination 
to  do  so,  only  j^layed  the  role  of  spectators. 

Madam  Nevada,  assisted  by  some  of  the  oth- 
er boarders,  gave  a  concert  for  the  benefit  of 
the  servants,  in  the  saloon  on  Sunday  night. 
We  were  disappointed  that  she  selected  that 
time  for  it,  as  we  would  have  enjoyed  the  mu- 
sic, but  could  not  attend  any  thing  of  the  kind 
on  the  Sabbath.  Next  day,  at  lunch,  in  the 
center  of  the  table  was  an  immense  bouquet 
presented  to  Madam  Nevada  by  the  cook. 

For  two  or  three  days  the  rain  kept  us  in- 
doors, until  finally  we  concluded  to  brave  the 
weather,  and  made  our  way  to  the  Uflizi  Pal- 


Florence.  209 


ace,  where  were  more  fine  pictures  and  statues, 
the  principal  one  being  the  celebrated  Venus 
de  Medici. 

The  churches  of  San  Marco  and  Santa 
Creche — where  are  the  tomb  of  Michael  An- 
gelo  and  monuments  to  Dante  and  Alfieri,  and 
the  famous  Medici  Chapel — were  both  richly- 
decorated  with  rare  marbles,  as  were  also  the 
churches  of  S.  Lorenzo  and  S.  Maria  Nuovo. 

The  Ponte  Yecchio  was  a  queer  old  bridge 
over  the  Arno,  lined  on  each  side  with  small 
shops,  so  that  it  really  looked  like  a  continua- 
tion of  the  street.  Quantities  of  the  most 
beautiful  jewelry  and  all  sorts  of  fascinating 
fancy  things  were  temptingly  displayed  in 
these  shops,  and  we  ladies  found  it  a  charm- 
ing place  for  a  walk. 

The  National  Museum,  which  proved  to  be 
much  more  interesting  than  most  museums, 
and  the  Palazzo  Vecchio,  the  old  palace  of  the 
Medici  family,  were  visited,  and  then  we  rode 
for  some  distance  along  the  Arno  to  the  Ca- 
cina.  It  was  a  lovely  drive,  and  the  view  of 
Florence,  nestling  at  the  base  of  the  snow- 


14 


210  A  Girl's  JouDU'i/. 


capped  mountains,  was  one  long  to  be  pleas- 
antly remembered.  ■¥ 

We  enjoyed  very  niucli  a  visit  to  the  studio 
of  Mr.  Ball,  an  American  sculptor,  who  also 
showed  us  through  his  son-in-law's  studio, 
Avhere  were  some  pieces  of  beautiful  statuary, 
all  from  original  designs.  Mr.  Ball's  "Eve" 
was  exquisite,  and  he  was  at  work  on  an  im- 
mense statue  of  Barnum,  the  great  circus 
man. 

We  walked  through  the  Boboli  gardens  in 
the  rear  of  the  Pitti  Palace;  then  took  anoth- 
er delightful  drive  up  to  San  Miniato,  a  pict- 
uresque old  church  on  a  hill  overlooking  the 
city.  On  the  ^\  ay  back  we  came  by  the  Piazza 
Michael  Angel o,  where  there  is  a  huge  bronze 
statue  of  David  by  that  celebrated  master. 

One  night  there  Avas  considerable  excite- 
ment in  the  pensmi,  caused  by  tlie  departure 
of  a  young  lady  and  gentleman  (who  had  been 
boarding  there  for  some  time)  for  Paris,  where 
they  were  to  be  mariied.  Quite  a  shower  of 
rice  was  sent  after  them,  followed  by  the  cus- 
tomary old  shoe  "  for  luck." 


Florence.  211 


It  was  hard  to  decide  which  was  the  more 
fascinating— the  mosaic  shops  along  the  Lun- 
gano,  or  those  of  statuary  on  the  Via  Fossi. 
They  were  all  very  tempting,  and  I  am  sure 
had  we  been  millionaires  a  great  many  more 
of  those  beautiful  things  would  have  found 
their  way  across  the  Atlantic. 

One  day  we  witnessed  a  grand  military  fu- 
neral. The  bier,  piled  high  with  flowers,  was 
carried  on  the  shoulders  of  men,  attended  by 
hundreds  of  soldiers  and  citizens.  In  the  pro- 
cession were  thirty  or  forty  of  the  Misericor- 
dia — a  company  of  persons  who  unite  them- 
selves in  a  band  to  perform  deeds  of  charity. 
They  may  be  seen  at  all  times  on  the  streets 
of  Italian  cities,  dressed  in  long  brown  cloaks, 
with  pointed  cov/ls  on  their  heads,  leaving  only 
the  eyes  exposed,  so  that  no  one  can  recognize 
them.  It  is  said  they  are  often  people  of  no- 
ble birth,  who  adopt  this  method  of  doing  good 
— attendiug  the  sick,  burying  the  dead,  all  un- 
known to  the  world,  and  even  to  each  other. 

Mr.  Dattari's  home  was  in  Florence,  and  one 
afternoon  we  walked  across  the  Ponte  Vecchio 


212  A  GirVs  Jouniey. 

lip  the  Via  Bardi  to  see  liis  residence,  which 
we  found  to  be  a  large  stone  house  near  the 
banks  of  the  Arno. 

In  the  afternoon  we  had  a  deliglitful  ride  to 
Fiesole,  a  little  village  on  a  hill,  about  three 
miles  from  Florence.  From  this  eminence 
there  was  a  magnificent  yiew  of  the  city,  made 
more  charming  by  a  glorious  sunset,  which 
verified  all  we  had  read  of  Italian  skies  and 
their  gorgeous  coloring. 

After  seeing  another  statue  of  David  at  the 
Belle  Arti,  and  stopping  at  the  Church  of  the 
Annunciata,  we  went  to  the  shops  again  and 
selected  photographic  views  of  the  city,  which 
we  found  very  good,  and  remarkably  cheap. 

On  Sunday  it  was  trying  to  snow,  but  we 
wrapped  up  well  and  went  across  the  river  to 
attend  service  at  a  little  Scotch  Presbyteri- 
an Chapel,  the  nearest  thing  to  a  Methodist 
Church  we  could  find.  A  young  Scotchman 
(a  mere  boy)  preached,  but  the  sermon  was 
splendid.  The  whole  service  was  so  simple, 
earnest,  and  impressive  that  we  gospel-hungry 
Americans  felt  greatly  blessed  and  benefited. 


Florence.  213 


The  Italians  are  not  well  prepared  for  win- 
ter weather,  and  their  "scaldini,"  or  little 
buckets  of  hot  coals,  which  they  carry  around 
on  their  arms  to  warm  by,  do  not  fill  the  place 
of  sure  enough  fires.  We  were  thankful  for  our 
winter  clothes  and  wraps. 

In  the  Englisli  cemetery  in  Florence  are  the 
graves  of  Elizabeth  B.  Browning,  Walter  Sav- 
age Landor,  Theodore  Parker,  and  the  sculpt- 
or of  the  "  Greek  Slave,"  Hiram  Powers. 

We  had  by  this  time  picked  up  a  number  of 
Italian  words  and  phrases,  and  we  girls  had  a 
good  deal  of  fun  trying  them  on  people,  often 
with  very  amusing  results.  The  language  is 
so  much  like  the  Latin  that  even  with  my  lim- 
ited knowledge  of  the  latter  I  could  under- 
stand a  great  deal  that  was  spoken  around 
me. 

The  last  morning  of  our  stay  in  Florence  I 
worked  up  my  courage,  and  went  down  town 
a  mile  or  two  alone  to  make  some  purchases 
that  had  been  neglected  the  day  before.  I  did 
not  have  any  adventures,  but  must  confess  to 
a  feeling  of  relief  when  I  reached  the  Piazza 


214  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

Independeiiza  ( the  square  ou  which  our  pen- 
sion was  situated)  in  safety  on  my  return. 

The  time  for  our  sojourn  in  Florence  had 
expired,  and,  agreeing  that  it  was  next  in  beau- 
ty to  Naples,  we  left  at  noon  for  Pisa. 


PISA— GENOA— MILAN. 

THE  journey  to  Pisa  was  a  very  pleasant  one, 
tlie  beautiful  scenery  interspersed  with  an 
occasional  charming  marine  view.  Stopping 
at  a  little  station  on  the  way,  v>^e  persuaded  an 
old  man  standing  near  to  gather  us  some  pretty 
pink  roses  that  were  blooming  out  there  in  the 
January  cold.  I  have  some  of  the  dainty  beau- 
ties pressed  and  in  my  flow^er  collection. 

After  engaging  rooms  at  the  "  Victoria,"  our 
whole  party  climbed  the  winding  flight  of  two 
hundred  and  ninety-four  steps  to  the  top  of 
the  wonderful  Leaning  Tower,  and  were  re- 
warded by  a  most  beautiful  view.  It  was  just 
at  sunset,  and  the  whole  landscape  —  with  a 
distant  glimpse  of  the  sea  in  one  direction  and 
the  snow-capped  mountains  in  another,  and  the 
graceful  Arno  winding  in  and  out  below — was 

bathed  in  a  soft,  rosy  light,  making  a  picture 

^215:) 


(216) 


LEANING  TOWER  AT  PISA. 


Pisa — Genoa — Milan,  217 

that  will  remain  with  us  always.  The  leaning 
of  the  tower  is  more  real  than  imaginary,  as 
we  could  easily  perceive  upon  looking  down 
from  the  summit.  The  most  slanting  part  is 
toward  the  base,  the  top  seeming  to  lean  a  lit- 
tle the  other  way,  as  though  trying  to  hold 
back.  I  had  never  thought  of  this  tower  in 
connection  with  beauty,  but  with  its  graceful, 
airy  look  it  impressed  me  as  quite  a  "thing 
of  beauty,"  esijecially  when  its  columns  and 
arches  were  aglow  with  the  pink  and  purple 
hues  of  the  setting  sun. 

We  girls  raced  around  the  top  several  times 
to  see  how  much  it  slanted,  then  sat  down  on 
the  floor  and  wrote  some  short  letters.  I  had 
promised  a  few  lines  to  a  friend  from  this  fa- 
mous elevation,  so  hurriedly  scratched  them  off. 

The  Cathedral  in  Pisa,  that  contains  Gali- 
leo's famous  lamp  which  suggested  to  him  the 
pendulum,  is  a  superb  piece  of  architecture, 
as  is  also  the  Baptistery  close  by.  In  the  latter 
building  we  heard  a  fine  echo  and  saw  an  ex- 
quisitely carved  pulpit,  said  to  be  the  hand- 
somest one  in  the  world. 


218  A  GirVs  Journei/. 

We  also  visited  the  old  Campo  Santo,  and 
spent  the  remaining  time  in  the  marble-shops. 

Next  our  route  took  us  along  the  shore  of 
the  Mediterranean  to  Genoa,  "  la  superba,'' 
through  the  most  picturesque  scenery  we 
had  seen  in  Italy.  I  am  sure  we  must  have 
passed  through  thirty  or  forty  tunnels,  and 
the  glimpses  of  beautiful  landscapes  interven- 
ing were  indeed  enchanting.  We  had  quite 
an  amusing  time  trying  to  eat  our  lunch  be- 
tween the  frequent  plunges  into  the  darkness. 

The  shops  in  Genoa  were  filled  with  delicate 
filigree  work  in  gold  and  silver,  which  was  de- 
cidedly tempting,  besides  quantities  of  other 
pretty  things.  The  principal  sight  was  the 
Campo  Santo,  or  cemetery,  certainly  the  most 
magnificent  we  had  yet  seen.  There  were 
great  stone  galleries  hundreds  of  feet  long, 
with  the  queerest  of  tombs  and  monuments 
ranged  along  the  walls.  The  poorer  people 
were  buried  outside  in  the  central  court.  One 
monument  had  a  large  figure  of  Father  Time 
with  his  scythe,  another  represented  the  wife 
and  children  of  the  deceased  weeping  at  the 


Pisa— Genoa— Milan.  219 


door  of  bis  sepulclier,  while  still  another  was 
a  death-scene  carved  in  marble,  with  the  fam- 
ily, friends,  and  physician  of  the  dying  man 
gathered  around  his  bed.  Nearly  all  the  tombs 
were  decorated  with  gaudy  wreaths  and  de- 
signs in  beads  and  immortelles,  while  to  many 
of  them  were  attached  framed  likenesses  of  the 
persons  buried  there. 

Of  course  we  visited  the  Municipal  Palace, 
where  they  show,  besides  the  relics  of  Colum- 
bus, of  which  Mark  Twain  gives  such  an  amus- 
ing description,  Paganini's  violin,  which  was 
more  interesting  to  me  than  any  thing  else  in 
the  collection. 

One  afternoon  we  were  hunting  for  the  Cas- 
tle Doria,  and  happened  into  an  immense  uni- 
versity, where  we  saw  some  handsome  stat- 
uary. Finally  the  Doria  Palace  was  found, 
and  after  going  through  its  various  apartments 
and  seeing  a  number  of  old  chairs,  frescoes, 
tapestry,  etc.,  we  spent  the  rest  of  the  after- 
noon in  the  shops. 

The  streets  were  exceedingly  narrow;  in 
fact,  some  of  the  houses  did  not  seem  to  be 


220  A  GirVs  Journey. 

more  than  a  foot  or  two  apart  at  the  top,  as 
the  upper  stories  projected. 

We  found  snow  in  Genoa,  the  first  real  snow 
we  had  seen  except  on  the  mountain-tops,  but 
it  was  not  very  deep. 

A  most  amusing  incident  occurred  one  day 
during  a  tram-ride  through  the  city.  Uncle 
Eobert  happened  to  take  a  seat  in  the  car  by 
a  window-pane  that  had  been  broken,  and 
mended  with  strips  of  paper.  Chancing  to 
touch  the  glass  with  his  elbow,  there  was  a 
crash,  and  the  whole  thing  fell  out  and  was 
broken  into  fragments.  The  driver  came  run- 
ning in,  and,  seeming  very  much  exercised  over 
the  accident,  began  talking  to  Uncle  Kobert  in 
a  vehement  and  excited  manner.  We  could 
not  understand  what  he  said,  but  supposed 
he  must  be  demanding  pay  for  the  loss  of  his 
broken  glass.  The  trouble  was  to  find  out  the 
amount  of  the  damage.  We  all  tried  to  com- 
prehend, but  it  was  of  no  use.  Finally  the 
car  stopped,  and  the  driver,  rushing  frantic- 
ally off  somewhere,  presently  re-appeared  ac- 
companied by  a  policeman,  who  only  added  to 


Pisa — Genoa— Milan.  221 

the  confusion  and  general  bewilderment.  In 
the  meantime  quite  a  crowd  had  gathered,  and 
stepping  out  of  the  train  we  found  ourselves 
the  center  of  attraction  for  an  interested  group 
of  spectators.  Things  began  to  look  rather 
serious,  and  we  were  at  a  loss  what  to  do,  when 
we  caught  some  words  which  sounded  like 
"  due  franc,'"  so  with  much  relief  Uncle  Robert 
handed  out  two  francs  and  we  took  ourselves 
away,  glad  enough  to  get  out  of  the  scrape 
with  no  greater  loss.  We  often  speak  of  it 
now,  and  tease  Uncle  Robert  about  the  time 
when  he  came  so  near  being  arrested  for  dam- 
aging property. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Eastman  had  concluded  to  leave 
us  for  awhile,  having  decided  to  take  their  trip 
into  Switzerland  at  this  time  instead  of  later. 
They  promised  to  join  us  again  in  Venice. 

We  reached  Milan  at  night,  and  were  de- 
lighted with  our  first  view  of  the  city,  the 
streets  being  brilliantly  illuminated  with  elec- 
tric lights. 

A  gentleman  at  the  hotel  in  Genoa  had  been 
very  kind  about  making  suggestions  as  to  where 


222  A  GirVs  Journey. 

we  should  stop  in  Milan,  and  when  Uncle  Rob- 
ert exchanged  cards  with  him,  lo!  he  proved  to 
be  a  sure  enoiajli  count,  from  Austria. 

When  I  awoke  next  morning  and  looked  out 
of  the  window  it  seemed  tliat  I  must  still  be 
dreaming,  for  there,  outlined  against  the  blue 
sky,  Avas  a  more  delicate,  fairy-like  creation  in 
marble  than  I  had  ever  imagined  could  be  fash- 
ioned by  the  hands  of  man. 

It  was  Sunday,  also  Uncle  Robert's  birth- 
day, and  Ave  celebrated  it  by  attending  service 
at  this  grand  cathedral,  the  largest  and  most 
beautiful  Gothic  building  in  the  world.  After 
walking  around  the  outside,  we  went  in  and 
heard  some  splendid  music.  The  ceiling  was 
like  cobweb  lace — all  in  pure  white  marble — 
and  the  beautiful  stained-glass  windows  threw 
their  glowing  colors  over  a  lovely  exhibition 
far  beyond  my  power  to  describe.  The  gor- 
geous windows  represented  hundreds  of  scenes 
from  the  Bible,  each  pane  of  glass  bearing  a 
different  picture,  and  the  whole  forming  what 
looked  to  me  like  an  immense  jewel  in  a  rich 
setting. 


Pisa— Genoa— Milan.  223 

In  the  refectory  of  a  convent  adjoining  the 
Church  of  Santa  Maria  clella  Grazia  is  Leon- 
ardo da  Vinci's  celebrated  fresco  of  the  *'  Last 
Supper"  and  the  "Crucifixion,"  both  rather 
dilapidated  -  looking,  after  more  than  three 
centuries  of  dampness  and  mutilation.  Here 
also  is  the  Church  of  Santa  Ambrogio,  where 
the  kings  used  to  be  crowned  with  the  iron 
crown  of  the  Lombards,  and  the  celebrated 
"  Brera,"  a  palace  of  "  Science  and  Art." 

We  girls  decided  to  climb  to  the  tijjtop  of 
the  cathedral.  Think  of  going  up  five  hun- 
dred and  twelve  steps!  but  we  had  the  best 
possible  view  of  the  building  from  above,  be- 
sides getting  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  city. 

While  out  at  the  Campo  Santo  in  Milan,  we 
went  into  the  Crematorium,  and  had  the  whole 
process  of  cremation  explained  to  us.  Just 
before  our  arrival  the  bodies  of  a  count  and 
countess  had  been  burned,  and  they  showed 
us  a  box  of  ashes,  the  remains  of  a  grown  per- 
son. It  took  just  fifty  minutes  to  cremate  a 
body  with  gas  and  two  hours  with  wood.  It 
was  not  at  all  a  rei)ulsive  place;  on  the  con- 


224  A  Girl's  Journey. 

trary,  every  thing  was  neat  and  orderly,  and 
it  seemed  to  me  there  could  not  be  a  better 
way  of  disposing  of  these  mortal  remains  of 
oars. 

After  dinner  we  walked  through  the  long 
gallery  of  Victor  Emmanuel,  a  wide,  glass-cov- 
ered passage,  lined  with  beautiful  shops  and 
brilliantly  lighted  with  electricity. 

After  lunch  next  day  we  left  Milan,  carry- 
ing away  with  us — in  memory — the  cathedral; 
and  I  am  sure  the  picture  of  its  ethereal  beau- 
ty will  follow  each  member  of  our  party 
through  life. 


VENICE. 

WHEN  our  train  sped  over  the  long  bridge 
and  into  the  station  at  Venice,  the  "  magic 
city  "  of  our  dreams,  it  was  some  time  after 
dark. 

Instead  of  climbing  into  a  cab  or  an  omni- 
bus we  stepped  down  into  a  gondola,  and  after 
a  long  ride  through  the  silent,  liquid  streets, 
passed  into  the  Grand  Canal  and  were  landed 
at  the  door  of  the  Hotel  Grand  Britannia. 
Next  day,  however,  we  moved  to  the  Victoria 
Hotel,  which  we  found  more  comfortable  and 
convenient. 

We  engaged  a  gondola  for  use  during  our 
stay  in  Venice,  nud  after  getting  a  little  rested 
began  the  pleasant  undertaking  of  seeing  the 
"lions." 

After  a  long  ride  up  the  Grand  Canal,  un- 
der the  Ponte  Eialto  and  past  numerous  old 
15  (225) 


(226) 


Ve7iice.  227 

stone  palaces,  where  we  saw  numbers  of  "pri- 
vate carriages,"  as  Susie  called  them,  with  the 
gondoliers  dressed  in  uniform,  we  turned  into 
another  canal  and  visited  the  Church  of  the 
Thari,  where  are  the  tombs  of  Titian  and  Ca- 
nova ;  then  on  past  the  Palace  of  the  Doges  and 
the  old  prison,  and  under  the  famous  Ponte  de 
Sospiri  (Bridge  of  Sighs). 

Our  gondolier  explained  every  thing  as  we 
went  along,  but  we  did  not  understand  very 
much  of  what  he  said. 

Next  morning  we  walked  down  to  St.  Mark's 
Square.  There  are  a  good  many  solid  streets 
in  Venice,  though  I  do  not  suppose  any  of 
them  are  more  than  fifteen  feet  wide.  We 
entered  the  Church  of  St.  Mark  and  feasted 
our  eyes  on  its  lovely  mosaics,  of  which  there 
were  forty-five  thousand  square  feet  in  the 
ceiling  alone.  Much  of  tlie  marble  on  the  in- 
side was  brought  from  Constantinople,  and  the 
Vv'hole  building,  with  its  five  domes  and  gor- 
geous coloring,  reminded  me  forcibly  of  an 
Eastern  mosque. 

Just  above  the  main  entrance  are  the  four 


(228) 


BRmCE   OF  SIGUS. 


Venice.  229 

celebrated  bi'ouze  horses  that  traveled  around 
so  extensively  before  they  were  allowed  to  rest 
iu  their  present  position.  Just  think  of  it! 
These  are  the  only  horses  that  many  of  the 
Venetians  have  ever  seen,  except,  perhaps,  one 
in  the  zoological  collection  in  the  park. 

The  glass-work  and  wood-carving  were  re- 
markably beautiful  here,  and  we  enjoyed  very 
much  our  visit  to  the  glass-manufactories,  where 
each  girl  had  a  bead  made  with  her  initials  on  it. 

The  Campanile,  or  bell-tower,  was  also  on 
St.  Mark's  Square,  and  as  we  v/ere  fond  (which 
is  the  habit  of  travelers)  of  going  to  the  top  of 
every  thing,  we  climbed  to  the  top  of  that, 
from  which  point  we  had  a  line  view  of  the 
city.  Opposite  the  Campanile  was  a  clock 
tower,  and  just  at  twelve  the  numbers  on  the 
face  changedj  and  two  life-size  bronze  jBgures 
struck  twelve  strokes  on  a  bell  with  hammers 
which  they  held  in  their  hands. 

In  the  afternoon  we  were  rowed  out  to  the 
public  garden,  where  an  extensive  exhibition 
building  was  being  erected.  This  garden  is 
on  an  island,  and  here  the  Venetians  come 


230  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

when  they  want  a  sight  of  trees,  flowers,  and 
grass. 

At  the  Cliurch  of  St.  George,  where  we  saw 
a  great  many  of  Tintoretta's  pictures,  Uncle 
Robert  had  a  funny  experience  with  a  fat,  jolly 
priest.  The  old  fellow  seemed  very  friendly 
and  pleasant,  and  insisted  that  he  "  take  snuff 
with  him."  Being  refused  several  times,  he 
kept  offering  his  little  box,  until  finally  Uncle 
Robert  did  take  a  pinch,  but,  not  being  accus- 
tomed to  that  kind  of  refreshment,  only  held 
it  in  his  hand.  On  the  w^ay  out,  however,  the 
box  was  offered  again,  and  the  priest,  with 
many  gestures  and  signs,  begged  that  he 
take  some  more.  This  time  my  uncle  con- 
cluded to  follow  the  good  father's  example,  so 
applied  a  generous  pinch  to  his  nasal  pro- 
tuberance; and  then — !  while  he  sneezed  we 
laughed!  The  jolly  priest  laughed  until  his 
fat  cheeks  quivered,  and  we  left  him  standing 
in  the  door  holding  his  sides,  while  the  last 
thing  he  heard  from  our  party  was,  "Kchew, 
kchew,  hrhcir!  "  from  Uncle  Robert,  and  a  per- 
fect gale  of  merriment  from  the  rest  of  us. 


Venice,  231 


In  the  Church  of  Santa  Maria  Salute  we 
admired  the  fine  paintings  by  Titian — his  "  St. 
Mark,"  and  others.  Then  we  rowed  again  to 
the  Piazza  of  St.  Mark  and  went  into  the 
church  for  a  few  minutes  to  look  at  the  mo- 
saics in  the  ceiling  lighted  up  by  the  rays  of 
the  setting  sun,  a  brilliant  and  beautiful  spec- 
tacle. 

In  the  Doge's  Palace  is  the  largest  oil  paint- 
ing in  the  world,  Tintoretta's  "  Glories  of  Par- 
adise," containing  more  than  a  thousand  heads 
and  covering  one  whole  end  of  an  immense 
audience-chamber. 

We  visited  the  Venetian  lace-school,  where 
the  girls  were  at  work  on  various  beautiful  pat- 
terns. 

As  it  was  not  possible  to  enter  the  Royal 
Palace  on  account  of  its  being  closed  for  re- 
pairs, we  crossed  the  Bridge  of  Sighs  and  went 
down  into  the  horrible,  gloomy  dungeons  where 
the  poor  condemned  criminals  used  to  be  con- 
fined. 

We  had  a  pleasant  time  feeding  the  pigeons 
on  the  square.     The  birds  were  so  tame  they 


(232) 


Venice.  233 


would  light  on  our  heads  and  arms,  and  fear- 
lessly eat  from  our  hands  the  grains  of  corn 
which  we  bought  in  packages  from  an  old  man 
near  by.  These  pigeons  arc  considered  sa- 
cred, and  no  one  is  allowed  to  harm  them.  I 
brought  away  a  few  of  their  feathers,  which 
I  picked  up  off  the  ground. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Eastman  arrived  next  day,  and 
reported  a  most  delightful  trip  through  Switz- 
erland. We  were  glad  to  have  them  with  us 
again. 

In  the  afternoon  we  took  a  walk  over  the 
Ponte  Eialto — which  has  shops  on  either  side 
like  the  Ponte  Vecchio  in  Florence — to  the 
Market,  where  there  were  a  great  many  queer 
specimens  of  vegetables,  flesh,  fish,  and  fowls 
— but  more  than  all,  a  remarkable  variety  of 
queer  smells. 

We  again  entered  our  gondola,  from  which 
the  top  had  been  removed  so  that  we  could  see 
better,  'and  let  our  gondolier  go  where  he 
pleased.  He  took  us  through  some  new  streets 
out  to  the  end  of  the  Grand  Canal,  within  sight 
of  the  great  railroad  bridge. 


234  A  CxirVsJounieii. 

AVe  girls  liked  the  narrow  canals  better,  for 
we  thoiiglit  they  "  looked  mure  like  Venice." 
The  Grand  Canal  resembled  too  much  a  river 
or  a  Avide  stream,  with  its  long  bridges  and 
small  craft.  Once  in  turning  a  corner  into  a 
narrow  street  our  gondola  (fot  stud:,  and  we 
had  to  back  out.  That  was  fine  fun,  and  we 
enjoyed  it  immensely.  But  worse  than  all 
was  the  tiny  steamer,  that  went  puffing  like  a 
fussy  water-bug  up  and  down  the  main  thor- 
oughfare of  this  romantic  city  of  the  sea.  It 
did  seem  too  bad  that  such  a  commonplace 
thing  as  a  steamer  should  have  found  its  way 
into  Venice. 

On  Sunday  we  attended  an  immense  funeral 
of  a  countess  at  St.  Mark's.  The  services 
were  strange  and  interesting  to  us.  The  cas- 
ket, covered  with  wreaths  of  artificial  flowers, 
was  placed  on  a  high  stand  in  the  center  of 
the  church,  while  all  around  stood  men  and 
boys  robed  in  black,  holding  lighted  candles. 
The  priests,  each  carrying  a  candle,  marched 
in  and  out;  sung,  chanted,  and  swung  the  cen- 
sers, while  the  brass  band  (all  the  musicians 


Venice.  2B5 


being  boys)  played  a  solemn  dirge.  Then 
the  casket  was  carried  oat,  preceded  by  the 
priests  and  four  female  mourners  dressed  in 
black,  with  scarfs  on  their  heads  instead  of 
veils.  These  last  each  held  a  silken  cord,  one 
end  of  which  was  attached  to  the  coffin.  The 
band  played  a  funeral  march  as  the  procession 
passed  out  of  the  church  and  down  to  the  wa- 
ter, followed  by  an  immense  throng.  The 
casket  was  then  placed  in  a  large  gondola- 
hearse  ornamented  with  white,  silver,  and 
black  trimmings,  and  rowed  by  four  gondo- 
liers in  black  -  and  -  white  uniforms.  The 
mourners  entered  another  gondola,  and  the 
whole  company  glided  silently  out  of  our 
sight. 

We  had  been  told  that  the  Cardinal  held  a 
confirmation  service  that  afternoon,  so  went 
over  to  the  palace  and  were  ushered  into  a 
waiting-room.  Presently  an  aged  man  came 
in  leading  a  very  old  gentleman  whom  we  sup- 
posed must  be  the  cardinal.  He  spoke  very 
little  English,  but  we  gathered  from  what  he 
gaid  that  he  thought  we  had  come  to  have  him 


236  A  Girl 's  Journeij. 

conifirm  a  child,  and  he  inquired  *'  whether  it 
was  a  boy  or  a  girl,  and  if  it  was  well  or  indis- 
posed." AVe  j5nally  made  him  understand 
that  we  did  not  want  t(j  have  anybody  con- 
firmed, and  bade  him  adieu.  We  afterward 
discovered  that  the  service  wo  wished  to  at- 
tend had  closed  before  our  entrance. 

We  spent  the  rest  of  the  afternoon  on  the 
square,  walking  up  and  down  the  quay.  It 
seemed  that  the  whole  of  Venice  was  out  en- 
joying the  beautiful  weather.  A  great  many 
people  were  sitting  at  little  tables  eating  and 
drinking,  while  the  street  venders  were  driv- 
ing a  lively  trade — offering  every  thing  imag- 
inable for  sale. 

AVe  met  a  very  pleasant  gentleman  at  the 
hotel— young  Mr.  Carter,  from  Denver  City — 
and  he  joined  our  party  next  day  on  an  excur- 
sion to  the  school  of  San  Rocco,  where  was 
some  of  the  most  elaborate  wood-carving  we 
had  seen;  also  Titian's  "  Ecce  Homo."  There 
was  a  library  carved  in  wood  that  interested 
me  greatly.  The  books  looked  so  natural  that 
I  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  taking 


Venice.  237 


down  and  examining  one  of  the  seemingly 
well-worn  volumes.  We  went  into  tlie  Church 
of  the  Jesuits,  the  interior  of  wliicii  was  dec- 
orated with  marble  mosaic  in  imitation  of  tap- 
estry, curtains,  etc.,  while  the  floor  in  front 
of  the  altar  was  made  of  marble,  but  looked 
exactly  as  though  covered  with  a  carpet.  Tin- 
toretta's  masterpiece,  the  "Crucifixion,"  was 
also  in  the  Church  of  San  Eocco  adjoining 
the  school. 

We  spent  a  great  deal  of  time  in  the  shops, 
and  you  may  be  sure  that  when  we  left  our 
valises  were  the  heavier  by  a  number  of  lovely 
little  souvenirs  in  glass,  besides  a  collection 
of  photographs. 

The  time  came  to  leave  this  charming  place, 
and  one  morning  we  were  awakened  at  the 
dreamy  hour  of  half -past  two,  and  rowed 
down  the  Grand  Canal,  where  every  thing  was 
still  and  dark  (the  first  time  we  had  seen  it 
so),  to  the  railway  station.  Only  one  house 
was  illuminated,  and  there  seemed  to  be  a 
revel  of  some  kind  going  on  there.  Carpets 
were  spread  down  the  steps  to  the  water's  edge, 


238  A  GiyVs  Joiirneij. 


and  strains  of  music  floated  out  from  tlie  open 
doors  and  windows,  sounding  softly  sweet 
and  clear  to  us  as  we  glided  silently  by  in 
tiie  darkness. 


VIENNA— PRAGUE. 

THE  scenery  on  the  journey  over  the  Car- 
nac  Alps  was  grand,  especially  after  dar'k 
when  the  moon  had  risen;  so  were  the  views 
going  through  Somering  Pass,  until  the  mists 
came  up  and  enveloped  all  in  a  ghostly  gar- 
ment of  white.  On  one  side  were  great  cliffs, 
hundreds  of  feet  high,  with  lights  from  the 
little  villages  twinkling  among  the  gorges, 
while  here  and  there  were  fairy-like  cascades 
frozen  into  shining  ice,  trees  laden  with  hoar 
frost,  appearing  as  guardian  specters,  and  over 
all  the  pure,  soft  snow  glistening  in  the  moon- 
light. We  again  passed  through  a  number  of 
tunnels,  one  of  them  being  over  four  thou- 
sand five  hundred  feet  long. 

The  train  rolled  into  Vienna  about  ten 
o'clock,  and  then  we  had  a  ride  that  was  in 
decided  contrast  to  our  silent  departure  of  the 

(239) 


240  A  GirVsJoiinmj, 

morning  from  Venice.  When  wo  liad  all 
climbed  inside,  and  our  baggage  had  been 
piled  on  top  of  an  omnibus,  the  horses  started 
off  at  a  tearing  pace  over  the  cobble-stones, 
while  the  immense  vehicle  swayed  from  side 
to  side,  and  though  we  spoke  to  each  other  at 
the  tops  of  our  voices,  not  a  word  could  we 
hear;  could  not  even  hear  our  own  voices, 
such  was  the  din.  I  almost  held  my  breath, 
and  am  not  sure  what  else  I  held  on  to,  until 
we  finally  brought  up  with  a  flourish  in  front 
of  the  Hotel  AVandel,  when  it  was  indeed  a 
relief  to  climb  out  with  no  bones  broken. 

The  weather  in  Austria  was  very  cold  at 
this  time;  but  the  people  seemed  to  be  fully 
prepared  for  it,  with  the  houses  and  furnish- 
ings arranged  so  as  to  bid  defiance  to  Jack 
Frost — double  doors  and  windows,  tall,  white 
porcelain  stoves  that  reminded  me  very  forci- 
bly of  monuments,  and  in  which  fires  were 
kept  night  and  day,  eider-down  pillowy  and 
comforts,  and  beds  of  down  to  cover  with. 
Mary  Green  and  I  used  to  laugh  very  much 
at  Susie  after  she  had  retired   and  was   all 


Vienna — Prague.  241 

muffled  up  in  the  coverings.  Nothing  could  be 
seen  of  her  but  the  top  of  her  head,  and  it 
looked  as  though  she  might  be  sleeping  under 
a  mountain  of  snow,  while  her  voice  sounded 
as  if  it  came  up  out  of  the  depths;  but  it  was 
very  comfortable,  and  we  were  glad  enough 
ourselves,  after  a  busy  day  of  sight-seeing,  to 
creep  into  these  downy  nests. 

The  morning  after  our  arrival  we  breakfast- 
ed principally  on  letters,  as  a  heavy  mail  had 
arrived;  then  took  a  tram-ride  round  the  city, 
which  reminded  us  very  much  of  Paris.  The 
people  were  extremely  kind  and  accommodat- 
ing, several  gentlemen  walking  out  of  their 
way  to  show  lis  which  train  to  take,  and  then 
instructing  the  drivers  where  to  put  us  off. 

A  very  pleasant  walk  was  through  the  courts 

of  the  Imperial  Palace  to  the  park,  or  the 

"  Volksgarten,"  where  was  an  exact  copy  of 

the  Temple  of  Theseus,  in  Athens,  containing 

Canova's  masterpiece,  an  immense  statue  of 

"Theseus  and  the  Minotaur,"  a  superb  piece 

of  workmanship,  cut  out  of  a  single  block  of 

marble. 
16 


242  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

The  principal  boulevard,  "  Eiiigstrasse," 
was  a  very  bandsome  street,  on  which  were 
many  of  the  finest  buildings.  The  imperial  sta- 
bles contained  a  great  many  beautiful  horses, 
harness,  carriages,  etc.  The  prettiest  of  all 
were  some  black  Spanish  steeds,  sleek  and 
glossy  as  satin,  with  tails  really  dragging  the 
ground;  there  were  also  a  number  of  lovely 
white  ones  with  luxuriant  manes  and  tails. 

One  of  the  waiters  at  the  hotel  was  a  curi- 
osity, and  became  quite  a  favorite  with  our 
party.  He  was  a  tiny  little  fellow,  seemingly 
about  ten  years  of  age,  dressed  in  regular  ev- 
ening costume,  with  swallow-tail  coat,  long 
trousers,  high  collar,  white  cravat,  and  always 
had  his  hair  combed  and  curled  most  elabo- 
rately. He  looked  like  a  second  Tom  Thumb, 
but  knew  how  to  wait  on  the  table,  and  re- 
quired assistance  only  occasionally  in  lifting 
the  very  heavy  dishes.  When  we  entered  the 
dining-room  in  the  morning  he  was  always 
standing  at  the  door,  ready  to  greet  us  with  a 
cheery  "Gooten  morcfeny 

The   chamber-maid,   Madeline,  amused   us 


Vienna — Pratjne.  243 


too  by  coming  into  our  room  at  night  and 
kissing  our  hands,  for  good-night. 

We  soon  learned  that  it  was  customary  all 
over  the  city  for  the  horses  hitched  to  wagons, 
carriages,  and  'busses  to  go  tearing  along  like 
mad,  while  the  roar  of  the  vehicles  over  the 
cobble-stones  was  deafening. 

We  also  noticed  a  great  many  dogs  drawing 
heavy  loads,  sometimes  being  harnessed  to  a 
cart  piled  up  with  hay,  vegetables,  or  milk- 
cans,  and  frequently  having  as  yoke-fellow  a 
man,  and  occasionally  a  ivoman. 

It  was  rather  an  expensive  place  for  shop- 
ping, the  specialties  being  amber  jewelry, 
meerschaum  pipes,  and  carved  leather-work. 

The  churches  of  St.  Augustine,  St.  Peter, 
and  St.  Stephen  w^ere  visited.  AVorkmen  were 
busy  on  the  latter,  though  it  w^as  begun  more 
than  six  hundred  years  ago. 

On  Monday  it  w^as  snowing,  but  we  did  not 
wish  to  lose  time,  so  went  to  the  Capuchin 
Church,  in  the  crypt  of  which  w^ere  exhibited 
copper  coffins  covered  with  flowers,  containing 
the   remains   of   the   imperial   family,   Mari^^ 


244  A  Girl's  Jounipy. 

Theresa,  her  father,  motlier,  and  children, 
Maximilian,  and  others.  In  the  Augustine 
Church  were  silver  urns,  in  -which  were  the 
hearts  of  these  same  royal  people. 

A  delightful  drive  was  the  one  out  to  Schon- 
brunn,  the  summer  palace  of  Emperor  Franz 
Joseph.  Maria  Theresa  once  lived  there,  and 
we  were  shown  the  rooms  at  one  time  occupied 
by  Napoleon.  One  was  fitted  up  in  Chinese 
style,  with  all  sorts  of  queer  little  tables,  jugs, 
screens,  vases,  unique  hangings,  mirrors,  etc. 
The  covering  of  a  single  chair  was  valued  at 
ten  thousand  florins,  and  the  decorations  of 
another  room  at  two  hundred  thousand  florins. 
On  the  walls  of  one  apartment  were  paintings 
executed  by  the  children  of  Maria  Theresa, 
while  still  another  was  adoi'ned  with  Persian 
pictures  of  copper,  set  in  gold  and  framed  in 
rose-wood.  We  also  saw  the  apartments  of 
that  unfortunate  prince,  Rudolph,  who  has 
recently  ended  his  career  so  sadly.  The 
grounds  were  extensive  and  beautifully  laid 
out,  though  at  this  time  covered  with  snow. 
We  climbed  to  the  Gloriata,  a  kind  of  colon- 


Vienna — Prague.  245 


nade  walled  in  with  glass,  on  top  of  a  hill,  and 
had  a  fine  view  of  Vienna,  and  concluded  it 
must  be  a  charming  place  in  summer. 

On  Tuesday,  after  waiting  quite  a  long  time 
outside  in  the  cold,  we  were  admitted  to  the 
Parliament  House,  and  heard  several  speeches 
from  members  of  the  House  of  Commons.  It 
was  entertaining,  and,  though  we  could  not  un- 
derstand what  was  said,  we  knew  they  were 
discussing  the  war  question. 

The  "beautiful  blue  Danube"  was  certainly 
the  loveliest  river  we  had  seen,  and  with  its  wa- 
ters the  color  of  turquois,  the  purple  mountains 
in  the  rear,  and  the  blue  sky  and  white  clouds 
above,  proved  the  truth  of  all  that  had  been 
told  of  its  beauty. 

We  spent  Wednesday  morning  at  the  Pal- 
ace Belvedere  (used  as  a  picture  gallery),  the 
building  in  which  the  celebrated  Congress  of 
Vienna  met  that  banished  Napoleon  to  St. 
Helena,  after  the  battle  of  Waterloo.  We 
saw  there  Eembrandt's  finest  portrait,  a  like- 
ness of  his  mother,  which  could  not  be  bought 
for  three  million  florins.     The  large  iron  gate 


246  A  GlrVs  Jonrneij. 

at  the  entrance  to  the  grounds  was  made  by 
hand,  and  was  very  ehiborate. 

It  was  a  whole  afternoon's  trip  from  Vien- 
na to  Prague,  and  not  much  to  be  seen  along 
tlie  route,  except  snow  and  pine-forests.  Tlie 
hotel  proprietor  spoke  very  little  English,  and 
the  gentlemen  had  a  funny  time  trying  to 
make  arrangements  with  him  about  rooms,  etc. 

Early  next  morning  we  went  to  the  Rath 
House,  to  see  a  very  curious  old  clock,  which 
interested  us  greatly.  After  a  few  minutes  it 
began  to  strike  nine.  A  skeleton  pulled  the 
bell-roi^e  and  nodded  his  head  at  every  stroke ; 
a  window  above  opened,  and  the  twelve  apos- 
tles passed  in  succession,  each  stopping  for  a 
second  or  two  at  the  opening;  the  figure  of  a 
rich  man  shook  his  head  and  his  money-bags, 
a  vain  man  looked  in  a  mirror,  a  wise  man 
held  a  book,  while  the  cock  crowed  and 
clapped  his  wings.  In  one  of  the  churches 
visited  was  the  pulpit  from  which  John  Huss 
preached,  and  in  the  Rath  House  we  were 
shown  a  fine  painting  of  the  great  reformer 
before  the  Council  of  Constance. 


Vienna — Prague.  247 


AVe  also  Avalked  tlirougli  the  Students' 
Gate,  on  top  of  wliicli  the  heads  of  murdered 
Protestants  were  once  displayed. 

In  the  old  cathedral  there  was  a  superb 
moijument  to"  St.  John  of  Nepomuck,  made  of 
ten  and  a  half  tons  of  Bohemian  silver,  ex- 
quisitely carved,  and,  inside  of  it,  a  crystal 
casket  containing  the  bones  of  the  martyr, 
which  are  taken  out  and  displayed  every  fifty 
years.  Our  guide  told  us  he  had  seen  them. 
It  is  said  that  this  saint  was  thrown  off  the 
Karlsbrucke  bridge  and  drowned,  because  he 
would  not  disclose  the  confessions  of  the 
queen.  We  crossed  the  old  bridge,  and  were 
shown  the  place  from  which  he  was  cast  down. 

After  going  through  the  Imperial  Palace, 
in  an  apartment  of  which  the  Thirty  Years' 
War  was  begun,  and  where  Kudolph  lived  for 
two  or  three  years,  we  went  to  an  old  syna- 
gogue in  the  Jews'  quarter  of  the  city,  the 
oldest  in  Europe.  Near  it  was  a  cemetery, 
equally  ancient,  which  had  not  been  used  for 
a  hundred  years.  There  was  not  in  all  Egypt 
or  Palestine  any  thing  as  dreary,  desolate,  and 


248  A  Girl  *s  Journey. 

neglected-looking  as  this  old  grave-yard,  with 
the  broken  and  dilapidated  tomb-stones  as 
close  as  they  could  stand,  and  many  of  the 
graves,  we  were  informed,  five  and  six  deep. 

After  seeing  the  house  where  John  Huss 
lived,  or  rather  what  remains  of  it,  taking  a 
ride  all  over  the  city,  and  looking  at  its  vari- 
ous monuments  and  public  buildings,  we  re- 
turned to  our  hotel,  the  Swatzer  Rogs  (black 
horse),  and  prepared  for  our  departure  in  the 
afternoon. 


DRESDEN— LEIPZIG— WITTENBERG. 

WE  girls  often  amused  ourselves  on  the  long 
railroad  journeys  by  "telling  tales,"  sing- 
ing, and  playing  a  game  called  "Animals," 
that  we  had  invented  for  our  own  pleasure. 
The  trains  kept  up  such  a  roaring  that  we 
could  make  as  much  noise  as  we  wished  with- 
out disturbing  anybody,  and,  being  in  compart- 
ments to  ourselves,  took  advantage  of  these 
opportunities  to  exercise  our  lungs.  Thus  we 
whiled  away  the  hours  between  Prague  and 
Dresden,  reaching  the  latter  place  in  good 
time  and  securing  pleasant  rooms  at  the  Hotel 
Weber. 

The  next  day  was  Sunday,  and  we  started 
out  to  find  a  church  somewhere.  It  was  in- 
teresting to  observe  the  queer  way  in  which 
the  people  attended  religious  service.  They 
entered  the  sanctuary  with  their  hands  full  of 

(249) 


250  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

bundles,  knelt  for  a  prayer  or  two  (turning 
tlieir  heads  to  see  what  was  going  on  around 
them  in  the  meanwhile),  arose  and  walked 
out,  going  on  with  their  sliopping  or  work  just 
as  on  any  other  day  of  the  week.  We  saw  one 
young  girl  at  the  church  repeating  prayers 
with  her  skates  on  her  arm,  and  in  a  few  min- 
utes met  her  on  the  way  to  a  pond  where  a 
large  crowd  of  skaters  were  having  a  merry 
time,  with  a  fine  band  stationed  in  a  little 
stand  out  in  the  middle  of  the  lake  making 
music  for  them. 

Such  bustle  and  confusion  as  there  was  at 
the  dinner-table!  We  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  tlie  Germans  were  a  very  loud,  jolly  sort 
of  people,  and  the  quantity  of  wine  and  beer 
they  consumed  was  alarming. 

The  Johanneum  Museum  contained  a  col- 
lection of  arms,  jewels,  and  royal  robes  that 
belonged  to  various  kings  and  princes.  Many 
of  the  swords,  suits  of  armor,  and  trappings 
for  the  horses  were  richly  set  with  precious 
stones,  making  a  most  gorgeous  display. 

There  was  also  quite  an  array  of  beautiful 


Dresden— Leipzig—  Wittenhevg.         251 


Dresden  china,  besides  Chinese,  Japanese, 
Persian,  Sevres,  etc.  Some  of  the  pieces  rep- 
resented horrible  dragons,  dogs,  fish,  birds, 
and  all  sorts  of  grotesque  figures.  Both  old 
and  new  styles  were  exhibited,  and  it  was  im- 
possible to  decide  which  was  the  prettier. 

After  a  long  drive  around  the  city  on  Mon- 
day afternoon,  we  w^andered  down  to  the  lake 
to  watch  the  skating.  Six  little  boys  arranged 
themselves  in  a  row,  with  their  hands  on  each 
other's  shoulders.  All  went  splendidly  for 
awhile,  until  the  front  one,  who  was  skating 
backward,  tripped  over  something  or  some- 
body, vvhen  down  they  all  came  in  a  heap !  The 
people  laughed  heartily,  and  the  boys  jumped 
up  in  a  hurry  to  try  i-t  over  again. 

The  lake  was  brilliantly  illuminated  with 
electric  lights,  and,  being  situated  in  the  midst 
of  a  lovely  little  park,  made  a  delightful  place 
to  spend  an  hour  or  two  on  long  winter  even- 
ings, especially  as  the  music  was  fine. 

Tuesday  was  devoted  to  the  famous  Dresden 
Art  Gallery.  It  would  be  folly  for  me  to  at- 
tempt a  description  of  this  splendid  collection. 


252  A  Girl  *s  Jounicj/. 

and  I  will  simply  say  that  the  gem  of  all  was, 
in  my  humble  judgment,  Raphael's  "  Sistine 
Madonna."  This  exquisite  piece  of  work  has 
a  room  to  itself,  where  the  visitor  can  spend 
hours  looking  upon  its  beauty,  which  grows 
more  and  more  attractive  the  longer  one  gazes 
upon  it. 

On  AVednesday  we  bade  farewell  to  charm- 
ing  Dresden,  and  reached  Leipzig  in  two 
hours. 

The  weather  was  vprj/  cold  indeed,  but  inside 
the  house  the  temperature  Avas  so  delightful 
that  we  felt  nothing  of  the  outside  discomfort. 
Early  in  the  morning  there  was  poured  into 
our  porcelain  stove  a  lot  of  what  they  called 
"brickets,"a  kind  of  composition,  something 
in  appearance  like  peat.  Then  the  double 
doors  were  screwed  on,  and  the  fire  was  not  dis- 
turbed until  next  morning,  the  room  being 
kept  thoroughly  and  evenly  heated  all  the 
time. 

The  University  at  Leipzig  is  situated  on  the 
Augustus  Platz,  a  very  handsome  public  square, 
and  an  old  German  porter  showed  us  through 


Dresden — Leipzhj —  Witteuhcrg.         253 

oue  of  the  buildings.  We  managed  to  see 
most  of  the  city  by  riding  around  on  the 
street-cars,  but  the  wind  was  so  icy  and  every 
thing  so  covered  with  snow  that  we  were  glad 
enough  to  return  to  our  cozy  rooms  and  beds 
of  down. 

AVittenberg,  Martin  Luther's  home,  was  the 
next  town  visited,  and  our  hotel  there  was  the 
Golden  Adler,  a  house  which  had  been  stand- 
ing four  hundred  years  or  more. 

At  the  old  Schlosskirche,  or  town  church, 
was  shown  where  Luther  had  preached,  and  the 
place  where  he  and  Melanchthon  are  buried. 
The  church  was  being  repaired,  so  of  course 
was  very  much  torn  up. 

We  also  visited  the  old  Augustinian  Monas- 
tery, where  Luther  had  his  home,  and  were 
shown  his  study  just  as  he  left  it,  containing 
many  interesting  relics  of  the  great  reformer 
— his  drinking-cup,  wedding-ring,  seal,  rosary, 
and  some  of  his  handwriting;  also  portraits 
of  himself  and  wife,  Catherine  von  Bora,  and 
the  double  chair  on  which  they  used  to  sit. 

At  Elster  Gate  was  the  place  where  in  1520 


254  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

he  burned  the  papal  bull  of  excommunication, 
exclaiming  as  he  did  so:  "As  thou  [thePoj^e], 
hast  troubled  the  Holy  One  of  the  Lord,  may 
the  eternal  fire  trouble  and  consume  thee!  " 

We  went  out  in  the  afternoon  and  bought 
some  very  pretty  flowers  to  press  and  add  to 
our  collection;  also  some  photographs  of  the 
principal  places  of  interest  we  had  seen  in 
Wittenberg.  In  one  of  the  shops  we  had  an 
amusing  experience  trying  to  make  the  man 
understand  that  we  wanted  a  picture  of  Lu- 
ther's tree.  We  talked  loud  and  fast,  and  then 
we  talked  slow,  and  called  tree  by  every  name 
we  could  think  of,  but  the  shop-keeper's  face 
still  wore  a  i)uzzled  expression,  until  at  last  a 
bright  thought  struck  one  of  us  and  we  drew 
a  rough  sketch  of  a  tree,  with  Luther's  name 
written  under  it.  That  worked  like  a  charm, 
and  he  immediately  smiled  and  handed  out 
some  photographs  of  "der  Luter  baum,"  from 
which  we  selected  the  ones  liked  best,  and  left 
with  sighs  of  relief. 

Wittenberg  was  certainly  a  place  of  more 
than  ordinary  interest,  and  we  remained  there 


Dresden — Leipzig —  Wittenberg.         255 

until  it  bad  all  been  seen,  then  made  ready  to 
move  on  to  the  capital  city  of  the  Germans,  in 
which  place  we  had  decided  to  spend  several 
weeks. 


©HAF'T's^  ;><;><iv;. 

BERLIN. 

WHEN  we  arrived  at  Berlin  I  Mt  quite 
elated  on  receiving  as  my  share  of  the 
mail  nine  of  the  twenty-three  letters  awaiting 
us;  and  you  may  be  sure  no  sight-seeing  was 
done  until  every  missive  had  been  read  over 
and  over  again. 

The  St.  Petersburg  Hotel  was  on  that  mag- 
nificent street,  Unter  den  Linden,  which  is 
considered,  I  believe,  the  finest  in  all  the 
world.  We  had  a  handsome  private  parlor, 
with  velvet  furnishings,  lace  curtains,  polished 
floors,  and  crystal  chandeliers,  while  just  be- 
fore the  window  was  a  convenient  little  desk 
placed  so  as  to  command  a  good  view  of  the 
Linden — one  of  the  most  charming  places  for 
letter-writing  imaginable. 

From  the  Royal  Bridge  to  the  Brandenburg 

Gate  was  about  a  mile,  and  we  walked   the 
(256) 


Berlin.  257 


length  of  it  several  times,  perfectly  fascinated 
by  the  handsome  palaces,  university  buildings, 
and  splendid  shops  with  which  the  street  was 
lined. 

The  Imperial  Palace  was  but  a  square  or 
two  above  our  lodging,  as  were  also  the 
old  palace  and  the  residence  of  the  late 
Emperor  Frederick,  then  the  Crown  Prince  of 
Germany. 

Every  day  just  at  twelve  o'clock  an  immense 
crowd  gathered  in  front  of  the  old  Kaiser's 
Palace,  and  as  a  military  brass  band  passed 
in  front  of  the  building  William  I.  came  reg- 
ularly to  his  window  and  stood  for  a  short 
while  saluting  the  people,  being  always  greeted 
with  shouts  and  cheers,  the  multitude  seeming 
wild  with  delight.  We  liked  very  much  the 
old  emperor's  face,  which  was  kind  and  pleas- 
ant, although  it  wore  an  expression  of  firm- 
ness and  determination.  He  celebrated  his 
ninetieth  birthday  a  few  weeks  after  we  left 
Berlin. 

•Just  after  we  had  seen  the  Kaiser  a  carriage 

passed,  and  all  the  gentlemen  on  the  street 

17 


258  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

raised  their  hats  to  the  Crown  Princess  Vic- 
toria, who  was  seated  within.  She  was  a  nice- 
looking  lady,  quietly  and  simply  dressed,  and 
not  at  all  remarkable  in  appearance. 

Finding  after  awhile  that  it  would  be  nec- 
essary to  spend  at  least  three  weeks  in  Berlin, 
we  concluded  to  try  another  2)ensJoif,  and  so 
moved  to  the  house  of  Frau  von  Schack,  a 
German  lady  w^ho  took  only  a  few  boarders. 
We  liked  the  arrangement  exceedingly,  as  it 
gave  us  an  opportunity  of  learning  something 
of  German  home  life.  The  frau  had  two 
grown  daughters,  and  they  lived  in  a  flat — the 
cooking,  housekeeping,  and  every  thing  being 
carried  on  away  up  on  the  third  floor. 

Every  evening  after  the  five-o'clock  dinner, 
having  spent  an  hour  or  two  in  our  rooms,  we 
were  summoned  to  "  tea,"  a  dainty  meal  served 
in  the  drawing-room.  I  did  not  drink  the  bev- 
erage, but  made  myself  happy  with  thin  sand- 
wiches, little  cakes,  and  lumps  of  sugar. 

It  seemed  quite  novel  to  sit  down  to  a  table 
in  a  small  dining-room  with  only  nine  persons 
present,  and  to  be  waited  on  by  a  (jirl.     Miss 


Berlm.  259 


Smith,  a  young  lady  from  Detroit,  was  there 
studying  art.  She  was  very  pretty  and  pleas- 
ant, spoke  German  fluently,  and  made  a  charm- 
ing addition  to  our  circle. 

Being  again  in  a  land  of  music,  Susie  and  I 
found  a  splendid  new  piano  in  our  room,  and 
it  was  an  unfailing  source  of  pleasure  to  us 
during  our  leisure  moments. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Eastman  were  boarding  just 
across  the  street  from  us,  and  near  by  in  a 
pension  were  two  other  Nashville  friends.  Pro- 
fessor and  Mrs.  Anderson,  who  were  extremely 
kind  in  showing  us  about  the  city  during  our 
stay. 

One  morning  we  visited  the  old  and  new 
museums,  finding  the  buildings  more  interest- 
ing than  the  curiosities  they  contained.  Ger- 
man art  was  not  altogether  as  fascinating  as 
that  of  Greece  and  Italy,  though  I  saw  one 
picture  that  interested  me  greatly.  It  was  the 
original  of  a  little  oil-painting  that  hangs  over 
the  mantel  in  our  sitting-room  at  home — Cor- 
regio's  painting  representing  the  life-size 
figure  of  lo,  with  the  faint  outline  of  Jupiter 


260  A  Gii-rs  Jounif'}/, 

pressing  his  lips  to  liers.  The  expression  of 
face,  the  pose  of  figure,  and  the  exquisite  color- 
ing were  so  charming  that  it  was  difficult  for 
me  to  tear  myself  away. 

Professor  Anderson  accompanied  us  to  the 
Philharmonic  Concerts,  where  some  of  the 
grandest  music  in  the  world  could  be  heard 
for  the  trifling  sum  of  fifteen  or  twenty  cents. 
On  the  first  night  the  chief  attraction  was  tlie 
piano  -  playing  of  Miss  Haler,  a  young  girl 
from  South  Carolina,  who  made  her  dehuf  as 
a  musician  at  that  time.  She  was  a  finished 
artist,  and  even  those  critical  Germans  seemed 
to  appreciate  her  performance.  Of  course  the 
Americans  were  out  in  full  force,  and  she  was 
heartily  applauded.  The  orchestra  numbered 
sixty  or  seventy-five  performers,  and  was  sim- 
ply perfect  in  time  and  harmony.  The  hall 
was  filled  with  little  tables,  the  audience  sit- 
ting around  drinking  beer  or  coffee,  and  par- 
taking of  light  refreshments.  A  good  many 
ladies  present  had  their  hats  off,  and  were 
busily  knitting  or  crocheting,  giving  quite  a 
social  air  to  the  assembly.     Not  taking  beer, 


Berlin.  261 


we  sat  at  our  table  and  quietly  watched  the 
others  until  the  music  began.  As  soon  as  the 
leader  of  the  orchestra  raised  his  baton  the 
shades  were  lowered  over  the  electric  lights; 
there  was  perfect  silence,  and  as  long  as  the 
music  lasted  no  other  sound  was  heard  in  that 
immense  hall.  The  tables  were  supplied  with 
felt  mats  to  keep  the  glasses  from  rattling, 
while  the  waiters  tipped  about  in  felt  slippers. 
If  any  one  present  had  talked  or  made  a  dis- 
turbance of  any  kind,  he  would  have  been 
hissed  out  immediately.  I  could  not  but  think 
it  a  great  pity  that  such  rules  did  not  obtain 
in  some  of  our  American  audiences.  I  felt  as 
though  roused  from  a  lovely  dream  when  the 
concert  was  over,  and  we  were  all  so  delighted 
that  we  decided  to  attend  again  when  an  op- 
portunity offered. 

In  going  through  the  old  palace  we  were 
required  to  put  on  felt  slippers,  so  as  not  to 
scratch  the  polished  floors  with  the  soles  of 
our  shoes,  which  proceeding  reminded  us  of 
our  experience  in  the  mosques.  This  build- 
ing was  very  handsome;  filled  with  magnifi- 


262  A  Gh'Vs  Journey. 


cent  furniture,  })ictures,  bric-a-brac,  etc.  In 
one  of  the  rooms  was  an  exquisite  portrait  of 
the  old  Kaiser's  mother,  Queen  Louise,  who 
was  almost  idolized  by  the  Germans  for  her 
beauty  and  goodness. 

We  attended  service  on  Sunday  at  the 
American  Church,  and  were  introduced  to  the 
minister  and  his  wife,  who  very  kindly  invited 
us  to  call  and  see  them  at  their  house. 

One  day  we  had  a  new  arrival  at  the  pension 
• — Dr.  Francis,  a  young  physician  from  Boston. 
Before  he  came  Uncle  Robert  had  been  the 
only  gentleman  among  eight  ladies,  and  was 
quite  a  "lion."  The  frau  was  ''awfully  nice  " 
to  him;  greeted  all  his  anecdotes  with  the  ex- 
clamation, "  Wonder  —  wonder  —  wonderful !  " 
while  it  was  most  amusing  to  see  her  roll  up 
her  eyes,  clasp  her  hands,  and  beg  hira  in  the 
most  beseeching  way,  ^'Please  to  take  another 
pancake! " 

The  wax-works  were  very  fine,  as  were  also 
the  National  Art  Gallery  and  the  grand  pan- 
orama representing  the  battle  of  Sedan. 

On  Monday  we  went  oat  three  miles  through 


BerUn.  263 


the  Thiergarten,  or  park,  to  C'harlottenburg, 
and  saw  the  old  palace  where  Frederick  Will- 
iam III.  and  Queen  Louise,  the  father  and 
mother  of  the  emperor  used  to  live.  The  pal- 
ace  was  handsome,  as  were  also  the  grounds. 
We  walked  over  to  the  mausoleum  of  these 
two  royal  people,  and  found  it  beautiful  in 
design  and  faultless  in  execution. 

Mary  Green's  birthday  occurred  while  we 
were  in  Berlin;  and,  as  the  Germans  always 
celebrate  these  occasions  with  nice  little  at- 
tentions and  remembrances,  she  was  the  recip- 
ient of  some  lovely  flowers  from  the  frau;  also 
a  bouquet  from  Mrs,  Anderson,  while  we  girls 
made  merry  over  a  feast  in  our  own  room  that 
Qight. 

The  florists'  shops  were  almost  irresistible, 
the  windows  being  piled  up  with  great  banks 
of  sweet-smelling  blossoms,  delicious  roses,  lil- 
ies of  the  valley,  violets,  and  a  thousand  other 
sweets  arranged  most  temptingly. 

Aunt  Anna,  Susie,  and  I  started  out  one 
morning  to  visit  the  porcelain  factory,  and 
managed  to  find  our  way,  aided  by  a  city  map, 


264  A  Girl 's  Jonineij. 

only  taking  the  wrong  street-car  once.  We 
found  tliera  niakiniji;  all  sorts  of  cups,  plates, 
dishes,  etc.,  and  were  conducted  into  one  of 
the  ovens  where  the  ware  was  being  Jired  or 
baked;  but  it  was  too  warm  for  comfort,  and 
we  did  not  remain  long.  One  man  was  mold- 
ing different  kinds  of  flowers  from  the  soft 
clay,  and  using  them  to  decorate  the  top  of  a 
large  dish.  As  I  stood  looking  on  he  handed 
me  quite  a  pretty  little  bunch  of  roses,  which 
I  preserved  among  my  collection  of  curiosities. 

We  had  an  enjoyable  time  on  Frau  von 
Schack's  reception  night;  besides  meeting  sev- 
eral pleasant  German  people,  Mrs.  Anderson 
came  over,  bringing  with  her  Mr.  Martin,  a 
young  American  gentleman  who  was  a  student 
in  the  university. 

The  Aquarium  on  the  Linden  was  a  most 
attractive  place,  containing,  besides  the  fish, 
many  animals,  birds,  seals,  monkeys,  beavers, 
and  snakes.  It  was  arranged  like  a  grotto, 
and  I  found  some  difficulty  in  convincing  my- 
self that  we  were  not  really  wandering  about 
under-ground. 


Berlin.  265 


Another  iiiterestiug  place  was  the  Arsenal, 
where  the  usual  number  of  small-arms,  armor, 
cannon,  and  uniforms  were  displayed. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Eastman  came  over  after  din- 
ner one  night  to  tell  us  good-by,  as  they  had 
decided  to  return  home  by  another  route  and 
sooner  than  we  intended  to  go.  It  was  sad  to 
have  our  party  divided  again,  but,  as  it  could 
not  be  helped,  we  bade  them  farewell  until  we 
should  meet  in  America. 


POTSDAM— HJ\MBURG. 

POTSDAM  is  about  an  lionr's  ride  from 
Berlin,  and  I  am  not  surprised  that  the 
royal  folks  of  Germany  should  have  selected 
it  as  a  place  of  residence,  as  it  is  quiet,  pleas- 
ant, and  in  every  way  attractive. 

First  our  guide  took  us  to  the  old  Town 
Palace,  built  in  the  time  of  the  great  Elector. 
When  we  were  there  it  was  occupied  in  the 
winter  by  tlie  young  Prince  William  (the  pres- 
ent emperor)  and  his  family,  and  in  the  sum- 
mer they  lived  in  the  Marble  Palace,  also  near 
Potsdam.  This  old  palace  was  once  the  home 
of  Frederick  the  Great,  and  we  were  shown 
his  grand  apartments,  tlie  state  dining-hall, 
reception-rooms,  and  drawing-rooms,  also  his 
own  private  dining-room,  where  he  ate  with 
his  special  friends,  from  a  table  that  could  be 

carried  down  through  the  floor  and  brought 

(266) 


Fotsdion — IhuHhurff.  267 

up  furnished,  without  the  annoyance  of  serv- 
ants, who  niiglit  have  listened  to  the  conver- 
sation. From  the  window  of  one  apartment 
was  visible  the  old  lime-tree  into  which  the 
people  used  to  climb  with  their  petitions  to 
the  emperor,  the  mirrors  in  the  room  being  so 
arranged  that  botli  sides  of  the  tree  could  be 
seen  at  the  same  time. 

Babelsburg  was  the  summer  palace  of  the 
old  Kaiser,  and  a  more  delightful,  home-like 
place  it  would  be  hard  to  find.  The  grounds 
were  extensive,  with  charming  views  of  the 
blue  lake  through  the  trees.  Hundreds  of  lit- 
tle boxes  were  fastened  about  all  through  the 
lawn  for  the  blackbirds,  and  in  the  poultry- 
yard  were  numbers  of  chickens,  ducks,  and 
other  fowls  that  the  Kaiser  was  fond  of  feed- 
ing from  his  own  hand. 

The  emperor's  rooms  were  not  at  all  elabo- 
rate, but  cozy  and  comfortable,  full  of  little 
ornaments,  treasures,  and  keepsakes.  In  one 
room  was  a  wooden  chair  tliat  had  been  made 
by  the  Crown  Prince,  and  was  highly  prized 
by  his  father.     In  his  bedroom  were  photo- 


268  A  Girl  '.s  Journey. 

graplis  of  his  numerous  family,  and  also  a 
very  pretty  bust  of  his  mother,  Queen  Louise. 

The  guide  pointed  out  to  us  with  a  great 
deal  of  pride  the  ivy-covered  entrance  to  the 
palace,  as  we  came  up,  remarking:  "That 
same  door  was  used  by  the  emperor  himself, 
visitors,  and  servants.''  In  the  entrance  hall 
a  cheerful  coal-fire  was  burning,  and  on  the 
walls  hung  a  great  many  antlers  of  stags  shot 
by  the  Kaiser,  and  one  large  elk's  head  which 
had  been  presented  to  him  by  Mr.  Yanderbilt. 

After  we  had  seen  the  dining  and  dancing 
halls,  which  were  rather  plain  and  unpretend- 
ing, and  the  various  apartments  of  the  differ- 
ent members  of  the  family,  we  left  Babels- 
burg  and  went  over  to  Sans  Souci,  that  superb 
palace  where  "Fritz"  lived  for  thirty-nine 
summers.  After  enjoying  the  beautifully  laid- 
out  grounds  and  the  view  from  the  terraces  in 
front  of  the  building,  we  entered  the  picture- 
gallery,  where  was  a  profusion  of  works  of 
art  collected  by  Frederick.  At  the  top  of  the 
marble  steps  on  one  of  the  terraces  were  the 
graves  of  eleven  of  his  favorite  dogs,  each  one 


Potsdam — Hainbiinj.  2G9 

marked  by  a  stone  slab  inscribed  with  names, 
dates,  etc.  Fritz  wished  to  be  buried  with 
his  canine  friends,  and  even  had  his  grave  dug 
close  to  theirs;  but  his  nephew,  Frederick 
William  II.,  would  not  allow  this  desire  to  be 
carried  out.  In  his  apartments,  which  were 
most  gorgeously  fitted  up,  were  many  pictures 
of  his  favorite  dancing  ladies,  one  room  being 
decorated  with  panel  portraits  of  Madam  Bar- 
barina;  but  when  we  asked  to  be  shown  n 
likeness  of  his  wife,  the  guide  shook  his  head, 
and  said:  "No,  there  is  none;  he  did  not  like 
her." 

In  the  private  dining-room  of  this  palace 
were  various  handsome  chairs  cushioned  with 
satin  and  down,  these  being  the  beds  of  the 
dogs,  which  were  fed  from  Frederick's  own 
fork.  In  the  gallery  close  by,  this  eccentric 
monarch  was  accustomed  to  walk  up  and  down, 
playing  on  his  flute,  followed  by  a  number  of 
these  same  dogs. 

Voltaire's  room,  which  he  occupied  for  eight 
years,  was  indeed  a  curiosity,  having  been  fit- 
ted up  to  indulge  a  queer  caprice  of  the  em- 


270  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

peror.  Voltaire  had  happened  to  make  some 
complaint  about  his  apartment  on  one  occa- 
sion; so  once,  while  he  was  away,  Frederick 
had  it  fitted  up  for  him  in  a  most  ridiculous 
fashion,  and  it  has  so  remained  ever  since. 
Painted  on  the  ceilings,  frescoed  on  the  walls, 
worked  into  all  the  furniture  coverings,  and 
in  every  available  i:)lace,  were  figures  of  vari- 
ous kinds  of  animals  and  birds,  each  one  in- 
tended to  represent  some  real  or  imagined 
characteristic  of  the  unfortunate  lodger:  mon- 
keys, because  of  his  resemblance  to  them; 
storks,  because  of  his  migratory  nature;  par- 
rots, because  he  talked  so  much;  foxes,  be- 
cause he  was  so  sly;  peacocks,  because  of 
his  vanity;  a  yellow  squirrel  eating,  because 
he  was  the  color  of  the  squirrel  and  because 
of  his  gluttony;  and  numerous  others — all  of 
which  naturally  enraged  and  insulted  the  oc- 
cupant exceedingly  when  he  returned  and  saw 
it.  In  one  of  the  halls  was  shown  a  hideous 
portrait  of  Voltaire,  representing  him  with 
the  face  of  an  ape.  Fritz  asked  him  to  sit 
for  a  portrait;    Voltaire  refused,  so  Freder- 


Potsdam. — Hamhfmj.  271 

ick  stationed  himself  at  the  key-hole  of  his 
guest's  room,  and  painted  this  caricature  in 
spite  of  his  opposition. 

In  the  Emperor's  room  was  shown  a  clock 
that  he  was  in  the  habit  of  winding  himself, 
and  it  is  affirmed  that  just  at  the  moment  of 
his  death,  twenty  minutes  past  two,  this  clock 
stopped,  and  has  never  ticked  a  single  time 
since.  In  the  rear  of  the  palace  we  noticed  a 
handsome  bronze  gate,  constructed  many 
years  ago,  which  the  guide  told  us  was  opened 
only  on  funeral  occasions,  and  he  stated  there 
had  been  but  four  of  these  since  it  was  placed 
there.  It  is  said  that  Frederick  used  to  drive 
out  in  the  afternoon  accompanied  by  a  second 
carriage  containing  Voltaire  and  several  of  his 
dogs.  As  the  vehicles  passed  the  people  would 
smile  and  say:  "  There  goes  old  Fritz,  with  his 
favorite  dogs  and  his  favorite  moukeij." 

The  Orangery  was  another  handsome  place, 
so  called  from  the  number  of  orange-trees 
planted  by  Frederick.  It  is  now  used  as  a 
place  of  entertainment  for  royalty,  the  "  king's 
room"  being  superbly  decorated  with  mala- 


272  A  Gn-i  \s  Ji 


net/. 


cliite,  presented  by  Czar  Nicholas  of  Piussia. 
A  very  beautiful  treasure  was  a  table,  the 
top  made  of  amber  of  ditfereiit  colors,  and 
handsomely  set.  One  of  the  gardeners  gaA^e 
us  some  orange-leaves  and  a  tiny  specimen  of 
the  fruit.' 

The  new  palace,  the  fifth  and  last  we  visited 
that  day,  was  built  by  Fritz  after  the  Seven 
Years'  War,  to  show  that  he  was  not  bankrupt- 
ed. The  most  noticeable  thing  inside  was  an 
immense  hall  decorated  with  all  kinds  of  shells 
and  precious  stones.  I  have  never  seen  a  more 
beautiful  room.  The  shells  were  arranged  in 
various  exquisite  designs,  and  on  the  marble 
columns  were  bands  set  with  crystal,  amethyst, 
topaz,  and  other  costly  stones.  In  the  panels 
between  were  imitations  of  glittering  stalac- 
tites, and  when  brilliantly  lighted  the  effect 
must  have  been  dazzling.  One  piece  of  rock- 
crystal  imbedded  in  the  wall  weighed  sixteen 
pounds,  and  in  another  place  was  a  sea-shell 
containing  a  real  pearl  just  as  it  was  formed. 
In  one  of  Frederick's  rooms  was  a  magnifi- 
cent case  or  chest  for  his  fiutes  and  music. 


Potsdam— Hamburg.  273 


made  of  tortoise-shell,  mother-of-pearl,  and 
silver,  with  a  small  card-table  to  match.  In 
three  of  the  palaces  were  spinets  on  which  his 
music-master  used  to  accompany  him,  while 
he  played  on  the  flute.  All  his  music-racks 
were  of  tortoise-shell  and  mother-of-pearl. 

On  the  way  back  we  went  into  the  Garrison 
Church,  where  part  of  the  eight  thousand  sol- 
diers living  in  Potsdam  worship.     In  the  pul- 
pit was  a  sand-glass  to  time  the  sermon  by 
(every  thing  being  done  with  military  order 
and  regularity),  and  when  all  the  sand  had 
run  out,  which  it  di^i  in  just  twenty-five  min- 
utes, the  minister  must  say  "Amen,"  whether 
he  had  finished  his  discourse  or  not.     I  won- 
der how  some  of  our  home  preachers  would 
like  that.     In  this  church  Frederick  the  Great 
was  buried  in  a  metal  coffin,  and  the  guide 
gave  us  some  leaves  for  our  floral  albums  from 
a  wreath  that  had  been  placed  there  by  the 
Crown  Princess  a  short  time  before. 

It  was  pleasant  to  get  back  to  Berlin  that 
night  and  rest,  and  we  spent  Sunday  quietly 
in  our  rooms. 
18 


274  A  GirVs  Journey. 

Next  day,  after  bidding  our  kind  friends, 
the  Andersons,  good-by,  we  made  prepara- 
tions for  departure^  and  on  Tuesday  morning 
were  up  before  daylight,  bade  farewell  to 
Frau  von  Schack  and  her  daughters,  and  left 
Berlin  from  the  Frederick  Strasse  station  for 
Hamburg. 

Our  hotel  in  the  latter  city  was  down  on  the 
Alster,  and  at  night  the  view  out  over  the  wa- 
ter, with  the  lights  glittering  on  its  four  sides, 
was  pretty  indee^l.  There  were  a  great  many 
swans  gliding  over  the  smooth  surface,  and 
the  graceful  creatures  added  much  to  the  beau- 
ty of  the  scene. 

It  was  surprising  to  see  the  nurse-maids  go- 
ing about  W' ith  short  sleeves,  though  the  weath- 
er was  cold  enough  to  make  heavy  wraps  and 
furs  comfortable  for  us.  After  a  long  drive 
through  the  city,  past  the  harbor,  and  out  into 
the  suburbs,  we  took  a  steamer  one  day,  and 
rode  to  the  end  of  the  Alster.  It  reminded 
me  of  our  trip  up  the  Bosphorus,  with  its  res- 
idences along  the  banks.  Out  in  the  grounds 
of  many  of  them  were  little  balconies,  built 


Potsdam— Hamburg,  275 


partly  over  the  water,  making  most  delightful 
retreats,  where  on  hot  summer  eveniugs  the 
people  sat  and  drank  tea  and  beer. 

The  view  of  the  city  from  that  distance  was 
very  fine.  I  had  never  thought  of  Hamburg 
as  being  any  thing  but  a  great  business  center, 
and  was  considerably  surprised  at  its  beauty. 
The  people  all  seemed  very  fond  of  flowers, 
and  there  were  stands  and  jars  of  them  in 
nearly  every  window,  even  in  the  houses  of  the 
poorest.  I  was  also  reminded  of  Venice  by 
the  numerous  canals  running  through  the  city, 
and  the  great  number  of  bridges  and  boats. 
Altogether  we  were  much  pleased  with  our 
visit,  and  w^ere  glad  to  find  that  our  route 
would  bring  us  through  there  again  on  our  re- 
turn from  the  north. 


COPENHAGEN— HANOVER. 

AT  Kiel  we  boarded  the  Bteamer  "  Victoria," 
which  took  iis  across  the  Baltic  to  Korsor. 
Everybody  except  Uncle  Robert  was  seasick, 
and,  as  Tom  Sawyer  said  of  his  toothache,  "  it 
was  perfectly  awful !  "  The  vessel  was  so  small 
that  it  was  rocked  by  every  wave  that  struck 
it,  and  we  suffered  accordingly.  It  nauseates 
me  even  to  write  about  it,  consequently  I  will 
leave  the  subject.  I  was  so  very  glad  when 
land  was  reached  that  I  felt  inclined  to  get 
down  and  hug  old  mother  earth  from  sheer 
gratitude. 

At  Korsor  we  got  something  to  eat  to  re- 
place what  ire  luid  lost,  and,  after  crossing  the 
well  -  cultivated  island  of  Zealand  by  moon- 
light, arrived  at  Copenhagen  in  time  for  sup- 
per at  half-past  ten. 

The  ground  was  covered  with  snow,  and 
(276^ 


Copenhaf/en — Hanover.  277 

next  day  the  sleighs  of  all  shapes  and  sizes 
went  gliding  past  our  windows  from  morning 
until  night.  Some  of  them  were  such  cute, 
trim  little  turn-outs,  with  the  coachman  stand- 
ing behind  driving  a  double  team,  and  some- 
thing that  looked  like  a  lace  couutei'pane 
spread  from  the  backs  of  the  horses  over  the 
laps  of  the  riders  to  keep  the  snow  from  flying 
up  into  their  faces. 

We  found  Copenhagen  to  be  a  queer  old 
city — especially  old — most  of  the  buildings 
seeming  to  have  accumulated  two  or  three 
coats  of  the  celebrated  "dust  and  mold  of 
ages." 

By  this  time  we  had  dined,  supped,  break- 
fasted, and  lunched  at  all  hours  of  the  twenty- 
four.  One  night  we  had  supper  at  eleven,  and 
breakfast  next  morning  at  ten  ( How  was  that 
for  energetic  Americans?),  though  we  were 
often  up  before  daylight,  which  made  things 
about  even  after  all.  I  found  that  I  could  sleep 
anywhere,  at  any  time,  and  under  nearly  any 
circumstances,  and  could  eat  almost  anything 
from  a  fried  eel  to  a  Dutch  cheese. 


278  AGhVsJourneif. 

Copenhagen's  "  lions  "  were  ruins  of  the  old 
Christian borg  Palace,  which  was  burned  in 
1884;  the  Thorwaklsen  Museum,  where  were 
displayed  many  of  the  beautiful  productions 
of  that  famous  Danish  sculptor,  and  where  he 
himself  is  buried;  the  wax- works,  and  the 
Danish  Folks'  Museum.  In  the  latter  could 
be  seen  several  rooms  furnished  exactly  in  the 
style  of  the  north-country  peasants  of  the  olden 
time.  Such  strange,  clumsy  -  looking  furni- 
ture, peculiar-looking  stoves,  funny  old  beds 
let  into  the  walls,  queer  playthings  for  the 
children,  and  rows  of  plates  arranged  round 
just  under  the  ceiling!  Last,  but  not  by  any 
means  least,  Kosenborg  Castle,  containing  a 
grand  disi)lay  of  old-fashioned  jewelry  glitter- 
ing with  precious  stones,  badges,  coronation 
and  bridal  robes  of  the  various  kings  and 
queens,  besides  numbers  of  rich  cabinets, 
tables,  carved  furniture,  etc.  In  one  of  the 
rooms,  opening  into  the  grand  Knight's  Hall, 
was  a  collection  of  beautiful  porcelain,  and  in 
another  a  quantity  of  exquisite  Venetian  glass 
tastefully  arranged  on  gilded  brackets.     This 


Copenhagen — Hanover.  279 


was  a  gift  from  one  of  the  Doges.  Still  an- 
other apartment  was  called  the  "  Mirror  Eoom," 
being  lined  (walls,  floor,  and  ceiling)  with 
glittering  mirrors,  so  that  when  we  stepped 
inside  our  images  w^ere  reflected  and  re-re- 
flected numbers  of  times  in  all  directions. 

One  of  the  finest  groups  of  figures  in  the 
Panopticon,  or  vsax-works  exhibition,  repre- 
sented the  whole  royal  family  of  Denmark, 
with  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales  and  the 
Czar  and  Czarina  of  Russia.  Another  room 
was  lighted  by  a  lamp  on  a  stand,  showing  the 
great  musician  Wagner  seated  at  a  piano 
playing  for  King  Ludwig,  of  Bavaria,  who  was 
standing  just  outside  on  a  little  balcony  in  the 
moonlight,  w^hich  was  finely  imitated.  Still 
another  tine  group  represented  the  old  Kaiser 
of  Germany,  the  Crown  Prince,  Bismarck,  and 
Von  Moltke. 

It  began  to  snow  again  very  heavily,  and  we 
were  obliged  to  give  up  a  trip  we  had  planned 
into  Sweden.  All  the  trains  were  stopped,  and 
most  of  the  communication  from  other  places 
cut  off.     The  two  or  three  days  we  were  snowed 


280  A  Girrs  Journey, 

in  were  taken  advantage  of  to  rest,  and  I  think 
it  ^vas  of  service  to  us;  at  least  the  Lome  folks 
some  while  after  received  a  good  many  more 
long  letters  than  they  would  otherwise  have 
done.  I  am  sure  the  poor  man  who  roomed 
next  to  us  must  have  wished  the  weather  would 
clear  up  and  let  those  restless  young  Amer- 
icans OLit,  for  he  heard  more  singing,  laugh- 
ing, talking,  and  general  romping  than  might 
have  been  expected  from  the  three  dignified 
young  ladies  who  descended  to  the  dining- 
room  and  ate  their  meals  so  "properly." 

The  windows  of  the  houses  in  Copenhagen 
seemed  almost  innumerable,  the  walls  being 
Argiis-eijed  with  them  from  the  narrow  pave- 
ments to  the  very  tops  of  the  queer-pointed 
roofs,  and  we  concluded  the  people  certainly 
must  be  very  fond  of  light  and  air.  In  front 
of  many  of  them  were  placed  small  mirrors 
fastened  at  such  an  angle  that  the  occupant  of 
the  room  could  see  all  tliat  was  going  on  up 
and  down  the  street.  Somebody  evidently  had 
curiosity. 

We  had  several  pleasant  drives  about  the 


Copen hagen — Ha  no  ver.  281 

city,  besides  passing  the  castles  and  palaces 
occupied  by  King  Cliristian  IX.  and  the  Crown 
Prince,  the  Uuiversity,  and  all  sorts  and  kinds 
of  shops  and  public  buildings.  In  a  pretty 
little  park  was  pointed  out  a  handsome  bronze 
statue  of  Hans  Christian  Andersen,  that  dear 
old  story-teller  wdiose  name  is  precious  to  all 
children  who  love  to  hear  of  fairies  and  fairy- 
land. 

The  return  trip  from  Korsor  had  been  most 
heartily  dreaded  by  the  ladies  of  our  party, 
but,  as  the  sea  was  never  calmer  or  the  weather 
brighter  than  the  day  on  which  we  crossed  the 
Baltic  for  the  second  time,  the  fatigue  of  the 
long  trip  was  borne  cheerfully  in  gratitude  for 
having  escaped  the  much-dreaded  seasickness. 

On  landing  at  Kiel,  where  we  had  to  wait 
forty-five  minutes  for  the  train,  our  first  ob- 
ject w^as  to  find  a  restaurant,  as  we  w^ere  rav- 
enously hungry,  having  eaten  nothing  since 
breakfast.  When  the  Germans  w^ant  refresh- 
ment they  simply  take  a  glass  of  beer,  and 
sometimes  a  piece  of  bread,  and  consider  it 
all-sufficient.     Accordingly,  when  we  began  to 


282  A  GirVsJouniey. 

gather  up  every  thing  on  the  lunch-counter — 
which  was  not  much  after  all — the  proprie- 
tor looked  perfectly  amazed.  We  bought  his 
entire  stock  of  beef,  eggs,  coffee,  and  cake, 
which  we  ate,  while  the  waiter  looked  on  in 
open-mouthed  astonishment.  The  man  made 
out  an  extremely  long  list  of  items,  and  seemed 
as  serious  and  concerned  over  it  as  though  it 
had  involved  millions  of  money.  We  then 
bought  some  extra  oranges,  telling  the  boy  to 
put  them  in  a  paper  for  us.  He  looked  utter- 
ly bewildered,  but  finally  rushed  off,  returning 
in  a  few  minutes  with  each  orange  carefully 
wrapped  in  a  separate  piece  of  paper.  About 
that  time  the  train  came  up,  and,  gathering 
shawl-cases,  umbrellas,  sachels,  cloaks,  lunch- 
baskets,  and  oranges,  we  hurried  into  a  car- 
riage, where  we  were  busy  putting  our  things 
into  the  racks  when  a  guard  came  to  the  door 
and  began  to  gesticulate  most  violently,  re- 
peating over  and  over  again  something  about 
*'Herr"  (Mr.),  pointing  to  Uncle  Eobert. 
Everybody  talked  at  once,  and  such  a  con- 
glomeration of  jaw-breaking  German  and  En- 


Copenhagen — Hanover.  283 

glish  was  never  heard!  Aunt  Anna  insisted, 
*'  I  am  his  frau! "  while  Uncle  Robert  assured 
and  re-assured  him,  "  These  are  my  wife  and 
children! "  We  were  finally  made  to  under- 
stand that  it  was  a  ladies'  car,  and  no  gentle- 
men were  admitted.  Thinking  to  find  one 
where  all  could  be  together,  we  again  gath- 
ered up  our  belongings  and  climbed  out. 
Every  carriage  was  full,  and  by  this  time 
quite  a  crowd  of  interested  spectators  had  as- 
sembled, some  occasionally  making  sugges- 
tions. While  we  stood  on  the  platform  in  the 
midst  of  the  hubbub  some  one  advised  me  ~ 
to  get  back  into  the  first  carriage,  which  I  did, 
all  the  while  entreating  the  others  to  follow 
me,  as  I  had  no  desire  to  be  carried  off  alone. 
Uncle  Robert  gave  us  our  tickets  (though  he 
was  morally  certain  "  we  would  lose  them  be- 
fore the  conductor  came  around  "),  and  he  got 
into  the  next  coupe.  Thus  the  tumult  was 
quelled,  and  the  train  moved  off. 

After  spending  another  day  in  Hamburg  we 
passed  on  to  Hanover,  and  stopped  at  the 
Rhine   Hotel,    where   we    were    again   snow- 


284  A  Girl's  Journey. 

bound  for  two  or  three  days.  We  girls  man- 
ufactured a  set  of  authors  with  which  to  amuse 
ourselves;  darned  and  mended  every  thing 
that  was  out  of  order,  and  ft^lt  better  that  our 
wardrobes  were  whole  once  more. 

On  the  third  day  we  determined  to  venture 
out  in  spite  of  the  snow,  and  as  the  sun  came 
out  in  the  afternoon  we  had  a  delightful  ride 
out  to  Herrenhausen,  the  home  of  the  English 
Georges,  passing  on  the  way  the  Guelph,  or 
Welfiii  Palace,  as  the  Germans  have  it,  where 
some  of  Queen  Victoria's  ancestors  lived.  In 
front  was  a  bronze  statue  of  the  Saxon  horse, 
represented  as  rearing  and  plunging,  being 
wonderfully  poised  on  the  two  hind  feet. 

In  a  museum  near  Herrenhausen  we  saw 
many  interesting  relics.  One  room  was  filled 
with  most  horrible  instruments  of  torture — 
thumb -screws,  irons  for  pinching  the  flesh, 
cat-o'-nine-tails,  swords  for  beheading,  etc» 

The  horses  in  the  royal  stables  were  beau- 
tiful, half  of  them  pure  white,  the  others 
cream-colored,  delicately  and  daintily  tinted, 
with  tails  so  long  they  swept  the  ground.    The 


Copenhagen — Hanover,  285 

royal  vehicles  were  also  handsome,  especially 
the  coronation  carriage  of  George  I.,  which 
was  gorgeous  with  gilt  and  paint,  and  lined 
with  velvet  and  satin. 

On  Sunday  we  attended  a  long,  tiresome 
service  which,  though  held  in  a  Lutheran 
Church,  was  much  more  like  the  Catholic, 
with  altars,  candles,  choristers,  chanting,  and 
so  forth. 

The  Prince  of  Wales  passed  through  Han- 
over during  our  stay  there  on  his  way  to  Ber- 
lin to  attend  the  festivities  on  the  occasion  of 
the  Kaiser's  ninetieth  birthday. 

A  good  rest  on  Sunday  afternoon  finished 
up  our  stay  in  the  city  of  the  Guelphs,  and 
left  us  fresh  and  ready  for  our  long  journey 
on  the  next  day. 


ROTTERDAM— THE  HAGUE— DELFTHAVEN. 

TO  reach  Pvotterdam  from  Hanover  took  at 
least  twelve  hours,  but  the  monotony  of 
the  way  w^is  broken  by  several  changes  of  cars. 

After  our  train  glided  into  the  Low  Dutch 
country  we  found  there  were  two  things  to 
be  seen:  windmills  slowly  waving  round  and 
round  their  great,  gaunt  arms  until  it  almost 
made  our  heads  swim  to  look  at  them;  and  the 
canals,  or  ditches,  cutting  into  squares  and 
patches  the  well-kept  fields,  which  looked  as 
tlioogh  they  might  have  been  swept  and 
brushed,  so  clean  and  tidy  was  their  appear- 
ance. The  houses  were  often  of  several  differ- 
ent colors,  with  pointed  roofs  reaching  nearly 
down  to  the  ground  on  the  sides,  and  some- 
times two  or  three  stories  up  in  the  gable. 

The  "  Victoria,"  our  hotel,  was  on  the  Maas, 

an  arm  of  the  sea,  and  the  Boompjes,  or  quay, 
(286) 


Rotterdam — The  Hague — Delfthaven.     287 

seemed  to  be  the  princiijal  attraction  of  the 
city.     We  had  a  fine  position  for  sight-seeing, 


DUTCH   WINDMILL. 


and  it  was  very  pleasant  to  watch  the  differ- 
ent vessels  as  they  moved  in  and  out. 


288  A  Girl 's  Journey, 

Nearly  every  street  ran  along  the  side  of  a 
canal,  and  there  were  almost  as  many  bridges 
scattered  about  as  were  to  be  found  even  in 
Venice. 

The  queer  head-dresses  of  the  women  were 
objects  of  curiosity — made  of  white  muslin, 
flared  out  around  their  heads,  with  great,  spi- 
ral gold  or  brass  pins  sticking  over  their  ears, 
and  often  perched  on  top  of  all  this  a  ridicu- 
lous little  bonnet  that  gave  a  most  comical  ef- 
fect to  the  costume.  Nearly  all  of  the  peas- 
ants wore  clumsy  wooden  shoes,  and  had  the 
appearance  of  walking  around  with  small  ca- 
noes on  their  feet.  It  Avas  amusing  to  see  the 
little  girls  jumping  the  rope,  cumbered  with 
this  extraordinary  foot-gear.  What  struck  me 
as  peculiar  was  that  when  these  shoes  wear 
out  (which  they  rarely  do  except  by  splitting) 
instead  of  buying  a  new  pair,  that  would  cost 
only  ten  or  twelve  cents,  they  get  a  piece  of 
tin  and  mend  the  old  ones,  and  wear  them  for 
a  long  time  in  that  condition. 

The  markets  were  well  worth  visiting,  and, 
though  it  was  drizzling  rain,  the  streets  and 


Bofterdain—The  Hague— Delfthaven.     289 

squares  were  lined  witli  little  stalls,  where  ev- 
ery thing  imaginable  was  for  sale — vegetables, 
dry  goods,  hardware,  toys,  brass  ware,  china, 
and  all  that  delights  the  heart  of  the  ruddy- 
faced  Dutchman,  his  plump  frau,  and  the  rol- 
ly-poly  children. 

In  the  St.  Lawrence  Church  was  a  very 
large  organ,  and  a  handsome  brass  screen. 
After  seeing  these  we  went  to  the  museum  and 
amused  ourselves  for  some  time  looking  at 
the  quaint  Dutch  Madonnas. 

There  was  a  canal  just  under  our  window, 
and  we  were  much  interested  in  watching 
them  raise  the  draw-bridge  across  it  whenever 
a  tall-masted  boat  came  along,  which  was  quite 
often.  The  toll  was  collected  in  a  wooden 
shoe,  fastened  on  the  end  of  a  pole,  and  hand- 
ed down  from  the  bank.  A  great  many  fami- 
lies live  on  flat-boats,  and  we  often  saw  the 
dogs,  cats,  babies,  and  older  people  comforta- 
bly settled  at  their  various  occupations  on  the 
deck.  It  is  surprising  that  the  little  ones  do 
not  go  overboard  oftener ;  but  no  doubt  most  of 

them  learn  to  swim  as  soon  as  they  can  walk. 
19 


290  A  Girl's  Journey. 


On  Wednesday  we  took  a  guide  and  made 
an  excursion  to  the  Hague,  whicli  is  a  beau- 
tiful little  city,  much  cleaner  than  Rotterdam, 
and  with  its  fine  parks  and  drives  must  be  a 
charming  place  in  summer.  Our  guide  was 
a  droll-looking  fellow  who  kept  us  constantly 
amused  by  his  funny  English,  introducing 
nearly  every  sentence  with  the  prefatory  ex- 
pression, "  AYall,  you  tliea."  In  the  picture- 
gallery  at  the  Hague  is  that  magnificent  paint- 
ing, "Paul  Potter's  Bull,"  one  of  the  finest 
animal  pieces  in  the  world.  Our  "creamy- 
eyed"  guide,  as  we  had  nicknamed  him, 
brought  us  before  this  splendid  picture,  and 
throwing  himself  back,  while  directing  our  at- 
tention to  the  two  principal  figures  in  the  piece, 
remarked  with  a  great  deal  of  pride:  "Wall, 
you  thea,  now  jest  look  at  the  thit  down  of  dat 
cow,  and  de  sfhand  np  of  dat  bull."  AVe  girls 
retired  behind  Aunt  Anna,  and  managed  to 
smother  with  our  handkerchiefs  the  laugh 
that  would  come  in  spite  of  our  efibrts  to  sup- 
press it. 

As  it  was  raining  in  the  afternoon,  we  took 


Rotterdam — The  Hague — Delfthaven.    291 

a  close  carriage  and  drove  out  to  the  palace  of 
the  late  queen,  first  wife  of  King  William  III. 
The  building  was  of  brick  and  not  especially- 
handsome  on  the  exterior,  but'  the  ball-room 
was  beautifully  decorated  with  paintings  by 
Eubens;  and  several  apartments  were  fitted 
up  with  exquisite  embroidered  hangings,  cur- 
tains, wall  and  furniture  coverings,  all  pre- 
sented by  theEmi^eror  of  Japan.  We  were 
shown  the  private  sitting-room  and  boudoir 
of  Queen  Sophie,  and,  as  she  was  a  very  pop- 
ular person,  they  were  both  filled  with  hand- 
some presents  given  her  by  different  friends. 
It  is  said  that  King  William,  dow  an  old  man 
more  than  seventy  years  of  age,  does  not  allow 
his  young  wife  to  visit  this  place,  the  reason 
being,  our  guide  told  us,  "that  the  remem 
brance  was  too  great." 

The  present  queen  is  only  twenty  -  eight; 
years  old,  and  her  little  girl,  the  heir  to  the 
throne  of  Holland,  has  not  passed  her  ninth 
birthday.  The  royal  family  reside  in  a  hand- 
some palace  in  the  city  of  the  Hague. 

The  weather  having  cleared  off,  we  had  a 


292  A  Girrs  Journey. 

pleasant  trip  back  to  Rottordani,  and  on  the 
way  to  the  hotel  walked  through  an  arcade 
lined  with  bright,  attractive  shops,  making  a 
beautiful  display. 

The  dogs  were  worked  in  Holland  just  as 
in  Germany,  Imt,  instead  of  hitching  them  in 
fro)it  of  the  wagons  or  milk-carts,  as  they  did 
there,  they  were  under,  so  that  sometimes 
we  had  to  look  down  among  the  wheels  and 
axles  before  finding  the  dogs.  Occasionally 
there  was  a  man  or  a  woman  behind  to  push, 
making  the  work  not  quite  so  hard  on  the 
poor  brutes. 

Thursday  was  a  very  busy  day,  and  we  saw 
a  great  deal  of  Holland.  First  we  went  on  a 
steam -tram  out  to  Delfthaven  to  the  old 
church  where  John  Eobertson  preached  his 
farewell  sermon  to  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  on 
the  eve  of  their  departure  for  America.  We 
walked  down  to  the  point  from  which  the 
"  Mayflower  "  sailed,  and,  looking  out  over  the 
water,  imagined  we  could  see  the  good  ship  as 
she  glided  off  with  those  brave  seekers  after 
religious  freedom. 


Rotterda m —  1  lie  Hag iie — Delft h aven.     293 

Our  next  stop  was  at  Schiedam,  where  we 
went  through  a  brewery  and  were  shown  the 
process  of  making  "  Schiedam  schnapps," 
which,  it  will  perhaps  be  necessary  to  explain, 
is  only  another  name  for  giu.  We  were  all 
invited  to  taste  it,  and  I  do  not  think  I  ever 
had  a  more  horrible  dose,  except,  perhaps, 
when  I  tried  some  Bavarian  beer.  It  really 
made  me  sorry  for  beer-drinkers.  The  pro- 
prietor showed  us  one  kind  of  gin  that  they 
manufactured  for  their  American  trade,  and 
another  that  they  kept  for  home  use.  There 
were  three  hundred  and  thirty-five  breweries 
in  Schiedam,  and  they  furnish  schnapps  for 
the  world.  Certainly  they  need  temperance- 
workers  there.  At  Delft,  on  the  way  back  to 
Rotterdam,  we  saw  quantities  of  the  quaintest 
old  blue  china,  such  as  decorated  the  cup- 
boards and  safes  of  our  great-grandmothers. 
Some  of  the  ware  was  purchased  to  bring 
home,  and  then  we  went  down  to  the  canal 
and  returned  to  Rotterdam  by  boat.  A  great 
many  of  the  canal-boats  were  drawn  by  dogs, 
and  I  was  filled  with  pity  to  see  the  poor  creat- 


294  A  GirVs  Journey. 


mes  palling  away  at  the  ropes,  while  it  Avas 
yet  more  distressing  to  see  a  miserable,  hard- 
worked  woman  tugging  with  them  at  the  line, 
and  bending  her  shoulders  under  the  heavy 
strain. 

And  the  windmills!  Mary  Green  and  I 
counted  twenty-nine  in  sight  at  one  time,  some 
of  them  grinding  grain  and  others  sawing  logs. 

We  were  all  very  tired  when  the  "  Yictoria" 
was  reached;  and,  as  I  Avas  suffering  from  a 
raging  headache,  the  girls  tried  to  tease  me  by 
insinuating  that  I  had  indulged  in  too  much 
"schnapps."  If  one  sip  was  followed  by  such 
a  result,  may  I  never  be  required  to  drink  a 
glassful — bitter  and  foaming! 


AMSTERDAM— HAARLEM— LEYD  EN. 

AMSTERDAM  has  been  called  the  "vulgar 
Venice,"  and  very  appropriately  too,  as  it 
has  eighty  canals  and  over  three  hundred 
bridges.  Our  hotel  was  named  the  "  Old 
Bible  House,"  because  on  the  spot  where  it 
stands  was  the  first  printing-office  in  Holland, 
where  the  first  Bible  in  the  Dutch  language 
was  printed.  A  copy  of  this  ancient  book, 
kept  in  the  hotel  office,  is  very  highly  prized 
and  exhibited  to  all  visitors. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  we  went  for  a  walk 
down  through  the  Jews'  quarter,  past  the  di- 
lapidated old  house  where  Rembrandt  once 
lived,  and  visited  one  of  the  diamond  cutter- 
ies,  of  which  there  are  forty  in  the  city,  em- 
ploying fourteen  thousand  hands,  all  of  them 
Jews.     The  process  of  cutting  and  polishing 

the  stones  was  quite  interesting.     One  of  the 

(295) 


296  A  Girl's  Journey. 

men  told  us  he  had  worked  hvelve  hours  a 
day  for  two  years  on  one  diamond,  which 
weighed  when  he  began  two  hundred  carats, 
but  of  these  one  hundred  and  twenty  were 
lost  in  the  finishing.  There  is  a  secret  in 
their  method  of  preparing  the  stones  which 
these  Jews  refuse  to  teach  to  any  but  their 
own  people,  consequently  they  have  a  com- 
plete monopoly  of  the  trade  in  that  place. 

They  showed  us  some  fine  stones  ready 
polished,  and  also  models  of  all  the  cele- 
brated diamonds  in  the  world.  The  dust  is 
regarded  as  valuable  ns  the  stones  them- 
selves, being  mixed  with  oil  and  used  in  the 
polishing. 

While  down  in  the  Jews'  quarter  we  visited 
their  principal  synagogue,  which  was  a  rich 
one,  though  the  building  was  not  particularly 
handsome. 

The  Zoological  Gardens  in  Amsterdam  rank 
next  to  those  in  London,  so  of  course  they 
were  not  to  be  left  out  in  our  sight-seeing. 
We  stood  for  a  long  while  before  the  lions'  cage 
watching  four  or  five  cubs  as  they  romped  and 


Amsterdam — Haarlem — Ley  den.        297 

played  about  the  old  lioness.  They  were  the 
cutest,  jolliest  little  things  imaginable,  and 
looked  very  much  like  overgrown  kittens  as 
they  rolled  and  tumbled  around.  The  small 
ponies  were  lovely,  and  so  was  the  tiny  mite 
of  a  white  donkey  that  poked  his  head  out  of 
a  stall  and  begged  so  piteously  for  something 
to  eat,  and  when  we  went  off  and  left  him 
just  cried,  kicked,  and  howled  (or  rather 
brayed)  like  a  spoiled  baby.  We  were  just 
in  time  to  see  the  hippopotamus  fed,  and  tru- 
ly it  was  a  sight!  His  mouth  seemed  large 
enough  to  take  in  a  man,  and  when  open  was 
indeed  something  frightful  to  behold.  They 
fed  him  on  black  bread,  which  he  greatly  en- 
joyed, catching  it  deftly  as  it  was  thrown  to 
him.  This  one,  they  told  us,  weighed  five 
thousand  pounds,  but  they  had  just  lost  one 
which  they  said  was  twice  as  large.  In  one  of 
the  monkey  cages  was  a  mother  holding  in 
her  arms  a  tiny  baby  monkey  only  four  or 
five  weeks  old.  When  some  bad  boys  be- 
gan to  tease  her  with  sticks  and  straws,  she 
hugged  the  little  creature  tight  with  one  arm 


298  A  Girl 's  Journey. 


and  climbed  the  tree  with  the  other  as  quickly 
as  a  squirrel. 

The  palace  was  quite  attractive,  with  its  fine 
throne-room  and  great  hall  beautifully  deco- 
rated with  carved  white  marble. 

One  morning  we  went  through  the  splendid 
Eyx  Museum,  which  was  new,  having  been 
open  only  a  year  or  two,  and  contained  about 
two  thousand  Dutch  paintings,  none  of  them 
very  remarkable  except  some  of  them  remark- 
ahhj  ugly. 

One  of  the  most  entertaining  of  all  our  visits 
was  to  an  orphan  asylum,  where  were  comfort- 
ably housed  and  fed  about  six  hundred  chil- 
dren. The  poor  little  waifs  seemed  perfectly 
devoted  to  the  "father,"  as  they  called  the 
manager,  and  he  was  equally  fond  of  them. 
They  are  kept  until  twenty-one  years  of  age, 
the  boys  being  taught  some  trade  and  the  girls 
learning  to  sew,  cook,  and  do  all  kinds  of  house 
work.  Every  thing  about  the  establishment 
was  plain  and  substantial,  but  cheerful-looking 
and  comfortable.  In  one  of  the  asylums  in 
the  city  both  boys  and  girls  dressed  in  uni- 


Amsterdam — Haarlem — Ley  den.        299 

form,  one-half  of  which  was  black,  the  other 
red.  Bather  queer  taste,  I  thought,  but  sup- 
pose there  was  some  good  reason  for  it. 

AYe  also  went  into  a  grand  cafe  said  to  be 
the  finest  in  Europe,  and  certainly  its  splen- 
dor was  dazzling. 

An  earthquake  would  be  very  disastrous  in 
Amsterdam,  and  things  would  tumble  promis- 
cuously; for  as  you  look  up  and  down  the  street 
almost  ever}-  house  leans  forward  because  of 
the  settling  of  the  piles,  and  many  seem 
as  if  just  ready  to  fall.  I  could  not  but  re- 
joice that  in  our  country  we  have  enough  room 
and  plenty  of  good,  hard  ground  upon  which 
to  build.  Land,  with  many  of  these  Dutch, 
is  so  j)recious  that  they  run  their  buildings  a 
great  many  stories  up  into  the  air,  while,  as  I 
have  already  said,  numbers  of  people  live  al- 
together in  their  boats  on  the  canals.  I  never- 
knew  before  how  to  be  thankful  for  plenty  of 
dirt  J  and  am  no  longer  surprised  that  these 
foreigners  continue  to  crowd  our  American 
shores,  anxious  to  possess  themselves  of  some 
of  our  broad  acres  of  land  in  the  far  AYest, 


300  A  Girl 's  Journey. 


We  found  ourselves  on  Sunday  in  the  city 
of  Haarlem,  and  went  down  for  service  to  the 
Groote  Kirche,  where  we  heard  the  great 
organ,  at  one  time  the  largest  in  the  world. 
It  was  indeed  a  powerful  instrument,  with  its 
five  thousand  pipes,  sixty  stops,  and  three 
banks  of  keys.  There  was  an  immense  audi- 
ence, and  we  had  the  benefit  of  some  fine 
congregational  singing.  The  church  was  so 
large  it  could  not  possibly  have  been  heated, 
so  an  old  woman  handed  around  (that  is,  if 
you  paid  her  for  it)  little  perforated  boxes 
with  bowls  of  hot  ashes  in  them,  to  warm  the 
hands  and  feet  by — something  like  the  Ital- 
ian scaldini. 

In  our  rooms  at  the  hotel  were  stoves  which 
burned  peat,  as  they  do  in  Ireland  ;  and  we 
again  slept  in  beds  with  curtains  all  around 
them,  making  one  feel  as  though  creeping  into 
a  tent  when  retiring  for  the  night. 

At  Leyden,  where  our  party  stopped  next, 
was  a  very  large  university,  and  in  one  of  its 
halls  were  the  portraits  of  about  a  hundred 
and  thirty  of  the  professors,  all  of  whicli  in- 


Amsterdain — Haarlem — Leyden.         301 

terested  Uncle  Kobert  very  much,  but  was  a 
"  little  beyond  "  the  rest  of  us.  We  were  de- 
lighted, however,  with  the  Botanical  Gardens, 
and  in  the  different  hot-houses  saw  some  rare 
and  beautiful  flowers.  The  Victoria  Regia,  that 
celebrated  plant  of  such  immense  size,  was 
growing  in  a  pool  of  water  all  to  itself,  and 
Susie  and  I  were  obliged  to  resist  the  temp- 
tation to  pluck  and  press  one  of  its  leaves 
(three  or  four  feet  across)  for  our  albums. 
On  the  outside  the  blue  and  yellow  crocuses, 
snow-drops,  and  English  daisies,  the  harbin- 
gers of  spring,  were  beginning  to  show  their 
bright  faces  among  the  blades  of  grass. 

We  journeyed  back  to  Rotterdam,  and,  aftei 
making  another  short  stay  there,  traveled  on 
down  to  Belgium,  concluding  in  our  own  minds 
that  as  regards  neatness,  frugality,  honesty,, 
and  general  interest  we  had  seen  as  yet  no 
people  who  could  "  beat  the  Dutch." 


ANTWERP— BRUSSELS— COLOGNE. 

THOUGH  the  Grand  Hotel  iu  Antwerp  was 
an  exceptionally  handsome  house,  splen- 
didly furnished  and  appointed,  it  being  at 
the  time  we  were  there  "  out  of  the  season," 
there  were  no  guests  besides  our  party,  and 
we  felt  somewhat  lonely  in  the  great  building; 
but  it  was  pleasant  to  be  so  nicely  waited  on, 
as  all  the  servants  were  at  our  disposal. 

In  the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  were  sev- 
eral pictures  by  Kubens,  among  tliem  his 
masterpiece,  the  "Descent  from  the  Cross," 
also  the  "  Elevation  of  the  Cross,"  and  various 
others  by  his  master,  pupils,  and  himself.  In 
his  paintings  the  different  faces  are  portraits 
of  his  fi'iends,  pupils,  servants,  two  wives,  and 
various  relatives.  As  I  walked  down  the  ca- 
thedral's broad  aisles  and  drank  in  the  beauty 
of  its  glowing  windows,  exquisite  carving, 
(302) 


dufirerj)— Brussels — Cologne.  303 


marble  columns,  and  priceless  art-gems,  I  felt 
as  though  I  had  been  suddenly  wafted  back  to 
Italy,  the  land  of  gorgeous  coloring  and  rich 
decorations.  The  stained  glass  of  one  fine 
window  was  presented  by  Leopold  II.,  King 
of  the  Belgians,  on  the  occasion  of  his  silver 
wedding. 

In  one  of  the  numerous  chapels  was  a  head 
.of  Christ,  painted  by  Leonardo  da  Yinci  on  a 
piece  of  white  marble.  Unfortunately  the 
stone  had  been  cracked  across  by  a  fall  some 
time  before.  A  very  elaborate  pulpit,  carved 
out  of  oak,  was  the  Avork  of  one  man  w^ho  la- 
bored at  it  for  fortij-Jive  years,  and  then  made 
a  present  of  it  to  the  Church — certainly  a 
royal  gift. 

After  an  extensive  drive  through  the  city 
and  out  to  the  walls,  which  ^vere  beautifully 
smooth  and  green-looking  with  their  covering 
of  turf,  w^e  left  Antwerp  and  made  our  way  to 
Brussels.  Every  thing  there  looked  decided- 
ly "  Frenchy,"  consequently  gay  and  interest- 
ing, with  pretty  shops,  handsome  buildings, 
and  splendid  boulevards.    Thursday  was  spent 


304  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

in  visiting  the  queer-looking  Hotel  de  Ville 
(or  town  hall),  the  palace  of  the  king,  also 
that  of  the  Count  of  Flanders,  his  brother, 
whose  son  will  inherit  the  throne  of  Belgium, 
and  the  old  palace  where  Maria  Theresa  once 
lived.  On  the  broad  steps  of  the  Bourse  (or 
exchange)  were  two  immense  stone  lions,  one 
holding  his  head  up  proudly,  the  other  look- 
ing sadly  at  the  ground— thus  representing 
the  elevation  and  depression  of  financial  af- 
fairs. None  of  the  pictures  in  the  museum 
were  particularly  noticeable;  but  the  natural 
history  department  was  quite  extensive  and 
interesting,  being  equal  to  a  petrified  Zoo, 
with  almost  every  known  animal  displayed; 
however,  we  preferred  seeing  the  living  creat- 
ures to  these  "filled  up  animals,"  as  our 
guide  called  them. 

At  the  Hotel  de  Saxe,  where  we  were  dom- 
iciled, they  wanted  us  to  pay  a  franc  each  be- 
cause we  did  not  drink  wine!  Of  course  inde- 
pendent Americans  could  not  stand  such 
imposition  as  that,  and  wo  moved. 

Dismissing  the  guide  one  day,  we  boarded  a 


A)diverp — Brussels — Cologne.  305 


street-car  aud  rode  clear  out  to  the  end  of  the 
line,  where  we  alighted  and  found  ourselves 
completely  lost.  That  part  of  the  city  was  not 
particularly  inviting,  being  filled  principally 
with  "flying  jennies,"  ragged  children,  and 
grocery  shops.  After  wandering  about  the 
bewildering  streets  for  a  long  time,  asking 
questions  of  the  people  we  met.  Uncle  Robert 
came  across  a  man  who  spoke  a  little  English, 
and  he  kindly  conducted  us  part  of  the  way, 
when  we  hailed  a  carriage  and  were  driven  to 
the  hotel,  as  tired  a  party  as  ever  rested  be- 
neath its  roof. 

In  the  factories  here  is  made  the  celebrated 
Bnissels  point  and  Valenciennes  lace.  A 
woman  in  the  one  which  we  visited  was  at 
work  on  a  piece,  one  yard  of  which  had  re- 
quired six  months'  steady  labor,  and  sold  for 
four  hundred  francs.  They  showed  us  a  pat- 
tern of  an  exquisite  bridal  veil  made  for  the 
king's  daughter,  who  married  the  Crown 
Prince  of  Austria.  It  employed  four  hundred 
persons  for  three  months,  and  cost  thirty-five 

thousand  francs  (about  i57,000).     The  Made- 
20 


306  A  GirVs  Journey. 

leine,  the  priucipal  shopping  thoroughfare, 
was  not  as  wide  as  Union  Street  in  Nashville, 
and  just  at  this  time  its  windows  were  gor- 
geous with  Easter  offerings  of  various  kinds 
— tremendous  red  lobsters  made  of  card-board 
and  filled  with  honhons,  all  sorts  of  fish  with 
the  same  toothsome  contents,  chocolate  eggs 
full  of  candy  and  tied  with  bright  ribbons, 
some  of  them  large  enough  to  hold  a  child — 
all  of  which  were  to  be  exchanged  as  gifts  on 
Easter  morning  by  tlie  boys  and  girls.  Choc- 
olate, indeed,  was  a  specialty  in  Brussels,  be- 
ing manufactured  in  great  quantities.  Many 
of  the  shops  sold  no  other  kind  of  confec- 
tionery, but,  strange  to  say,  it  was  very  expen- 
sive. 

The  Palace  of  Justice  was  a  new  building, 
having  been  completed  in  1883.  The  style  was 
Grecian,  and  it  was  wonderfully  grand  and 
imposing,  being  situated  at  the  end  of  a  long 
street.  AYe  had,  through  our  glasses,  from  the 
steps  of  this  building,  a  fine  view  of  the  plain 
on  which  the  battle  of  AVaterloo  was  fought. 

The  Parliament   House  was  also  new,  its 


Anfiverp — Brussels — Colo'jne.  307 

apartments  expensively  fitted  up,  and  kept  in 
the  most  perfect  order. 

The  old  ducal  palace  where  William  the  Si- 
lent lived  was  reached  after  a  pleasant  walk 
through  the  park,  and  when  that  had  been 
seen  we  were  tired  out  and  ready  for  our 
rooms  and  rest. 

On  Palm-Sunday  we  attended  service  at 
the  Cathedral.  Everybody  carried  a  piece  of 
greeny  and  we  were  assailed  aU  along  the  way 
by  children  selling  sprigs  of  it.  On  some  of 
these  bunches  were  little  images  of  the  "Bam- 
bino," gayly  dressed  in  tinsel  and  gauze,  and 
not  particularly  remarkable  for  beauty. 

Continuing  our  journey  on  Monday,  we 
passed,  among  other  places,  Aix-la-Chapelle^ 
Louvain,  and  Liege,  and  arrived  at  Cologne  in 
time  for  a  walk  before  night.  On  the  square 
just  in  front  of  our  hotel  was  a  fine  bronze 
equestrian  statue  of  Frederick  William  III.» 
and  in  another  platz  a  splendid  statue  of  Bis- 
marck. The  streets  w^ere  crowded,  and  it  was 
with  great  difficulty  we  made  our  way  along  the 
narrow  pavements,  which  were  often  not  more 


308  A  Girrs  Journey. 


than  a  foot  Find  a  half  wide.  I  had  often  read 
and  heard  of  the  i^ntells  that  hirk  about  this 
famous  city,  and  must  add  my  testimony  to 
the  fact  that  the  various  and  sundry  odors  that 
greeted  us  were  something  w^onderful  for  a 
place  with  such  a  name. 

The  old  bridge  of  boats  w^as  a  curious 
structure,  made  in  sections,  resting  on  about 
forty  boats.  When  a  vessel  came  along  two 
of  the  divisions  w^ere  moved  out  of  place, 
making  a  gap  large  enough  for  it  to  pass 
til  rough:  we  waited  to  see  them  clear  the 
way  for  several,  and  recrossing  the  Rhine  on 
the  splendid  new  iron  bridge,  went  to  the  Ca- 
thedral, where  a  funeral  service  was  being 
conducted.  The  building  was  superb  inside 
and  out.  The  rich  stained  glass  in  the  south 
w^indow^s  was  given  by  the  King  of  Bavaria, 
and  the  wdiole  thing  was  as  lovely  as  a  dream. 
We  girls  took  a  guide  and  climbed  to  the  top 
of  one  of  the  towers,  at  that  time  the  highest 
in  Europe,  then  into  the  room  where  the  five 
great  bells  hung.  Three  of  them  were  ring- 
ing at  once,  and  such  a  deafening  noise  as  they 


Antwerp — Brussels — Cologne.  309 

made!  It  was  indeed  a  real  "confusion  of 
tongues,"  and  we  could  not  hear  any  other 
sound,  even  when  we  screamed  at  each  other 
in  loudest  tones.  It  was  a  scary  sight  to  look 
up  and  see  the  immense  metal  monsters  swing- 
ing back  and  forth  above  our  heads — the  larg- 
est seemingly  the  size  of  a  small  house — and 
was  like  being  up  among  the  thunder-clouds. 
The  view  from  the  tower  was  grand,  with  the 
city  lying  far  below  us,  and  the  "  castellated 
Ehine  "  winding  in  and  out  on  its  way  to  the 
sea.  It  is  a  large  river — would  be  even  in 
America.  We  counted  the  steps  ascended, 
and  there  were  just  five  hundred  and  twenty-' 
three.  I  was  glad  to  have  been  to  the  top  of 
one  of  the  highest  towers  in  the  world,  but  I 
shall  not  soon  forget  the  weariness  that  fol- 
lowed the  accomplishment  of  the  feat,  for 
when  we  reached  the  ground  again  I  was 
bathed  in  perspiration,  and  my  limbs  trem- 
bled so  I  could  scarcely  stand. 

In  the  evening  we  girls  varied  the  monotony 
of  hotel  life  by  accidentally  turning  over  the 
wardrobe  in  our  room.     We  were  all  under  it 


310  A  GirVs  Journey. 


when  it  fell,  but  so  was  the  table,  which  kindly 
caught  the  weight,  consequently  nobody  was 
hurt,  and  tilings  were  soon  righted. 

Of  course  we  bought  some  eau-de-Cologne 
at  the  "  original "  shop,  established  in  1695. 
Over  the  door  was  the  name  of  Johann  Maria 
Farina,  the  inventor  of  cologne;  but  then  they 
all  claim  to  be  his  direct  successors,  so  there 
is  no  determining  the  exact  odorous  descend- 
ant. The  cologne  was  very  nice  indeed,  and 
we  carried  away  as  much  as  it  was  probable 
the  custom-house  officers  w^ould  allow  us, 
wishing  in  our  hearts  that  every  thing  else  in 
this  city  on  the  Ehine  had  as  sweet  a  smell. 


RIVER   RHINE— COBLENTZ—MAYENCE. 

WE  were  now  ready  for  the  grand  old  Rhine, 
with  its  castles  and  ruins,  its  romantic 
scenery  and  historic  associations.  The  steam- 
er "Gutenberg"  awaited  us  at  the  wharf,  and 
by  ten  o'clock  we  were  under  way,  and  on  the 
alert  to  catch  the  first  glimpse  of  a  sure  enough 
castle.  Just  after  leaving  Bonn  our  watch- 
fulness was  rewarded,  for  high  above  on  its 
rugged  mountain  heights  rose  Drachenfels 
(** Dragon's  Rock"),  or  rather  what  was  left 
of  it,  while  some  distance  below  could  be  seen 
another  castle,  new  and  complete,  with  walls, 
turrets,  and  battlements  in  perfect  imitation 
of  the  old  style. 

We  had  lunch  on  board  the  steamer,  and 
spent  the  afternoon  on  deck,  with  maps  of 
the  river,  guide-books,  and   glasses,  looking 

out  the  famous  places,  and  greeting  with  dc- 

(311) 


312  A  GirVs  Journey. 

light  each  point  that  came  into  view  as  we 
slowly  glided  by.  That  night  we  landed  at 
Coblentz,  and  not  to  get  too  far  away  took 
rooms  at  the  Bellevue  Hotel,  where  our  win- 
dows opened  out  on  little  balconies  overlook- 
ing the  river.  Just  across  the  water  could  be 
seen  the  great  stronghold  or  castle  of  Ehren- 
breitstein,  called  the  "  Gibraltar  of  the  Eliine," 
and  leading  to  it  a  bridge  of  boats  like  the  one 
at  Cologne,  while  constantly  passing  over  it 
were  hundreds  of  German  soldiers,  whose 
quarters  were  at  the  fortress. 

Bright  and  early  next  morning  our  party 
was  ready  for  a  second  start,  and,  after  explor- 
ing part  of  the  little  city  in  search  of  some- 
thing for  lunch,  boarded  the  **  Elberfeld  "  and 
continued  the  voyage.  Now  it  was  that  the 
truly  magnificent  scenery  began  to  come  in 
view;  fine  old  buildings  were  passed  in  rapid 
succession,  situated  on  top  of  seemingly  inac- 
cessible peaks,  some  in  ruins  beautifully 
draped  with  mantles  of  ivy,  and  others  re- 
stored, looking  stately  and  stable  as  they  clung 
to  their  lofty  perches.     Our  maps  gave  pict- 


River  Rhine — Cohlentz — Maijence.       313 

ures  and  names  of  all  the  principal  towns, 
villages,  and  castles,  consequently  we  were 
prepared  and  watching  for  each  point  of  inter- 
est before  reaching  it.  1  believe  the  most 
beautiful  of  all  was  Eheinstein,  though  Ehein- 
fels  was  the  most  imposing.  Clinging  to  the 
tops  of  opposite  mountains,  their  rough  gray- 
walls  bearing  the  marks  of  time,  were  New 
Katzenellenbogen  and  Thurnberg,  or  the 
"  Cat "  and  the  "  Mouse; "  while  looking  across 
from  opposite  rocks  stood  •"  The  Brothers," 
Sternberg  and  Liebenstein;  then  came  Son- 
neck,  Marksburg,  Oberwesel,  Gutenfels,  and 
many  others,  all  having  connected  with  them 
romantic  legends  and  historical  associations 
sufficient  to  fill  a  volume,  if  I  had  time  and 
space  to  relate  them. 

You  remember  the  metrical  story  of  Bishop 
Hatto,  wdio  during  a  time  of  famine,  when  his 
granaries  were  full  of  corn,  sent  out  and  in- 
vited the  poor  starving  people  to  come  and 
help  themselves;  then,  when  they  were  all  in- 
side, set  fire  to  the  barn,  and  while  the  dread- 
ful holocaust  was  at  its  height, 


314  A  GirVs  Journey. 

"I'  failli  'tis  an  excellent  bonfire!"  quoth  he;^ 
"And  the  country  is  greatly  oblige*!  to  me 
For  ridding  it  in  thepe  times  forlorn 
Of  r^ts  that  only  consume  the  corn." 

And  he  slept  that  night  like  an  innocent  man, 
But  Bishop  Hatto  never  slept  again. 

Next  morning  a  messenger  came  running  to 
tell  him  that  thousands  of  rats  were  coming 
that  way.  In  great  terror  the  wicked  bishop 
fled  to  his  tower  on  the  Khine,  where  he  shut 
himself  in  with  strong  bolts  and  bars;  but  the 
rats  were  still  coming,  and,  swimming  the  river, 
in  spite  of  the  miserable  old  man's  precau- 
tions, 

In  at  the  windows  and  in  at  the  door, 
And  through  the  walls  by  thousands  they  pour, 
And  down  from  the  ceiling  and  up  through  the  floor, 
From  the  right  and  the  left,  from  behind  and  before. 
From  within  and  without,  from  above  and  below — 
And  all  at  once  to  the  bishop  they  go. 

They  have  whetted  their  teeth  against  the  stones. 
And  now  they  are  i)icking  the  bishop's  bones : 
They  gnawed  tlie  flesh  from  every  limb. 
For  they  were  sent  to  do  judgment  on  him. 


River  EJiine — Cohlentz — Moyence.       315 

Just  about  noon  our  steamer,  moving  lei- 
surely along,  passed  this  very  old  tower,  and 
with  the  greatest  interest  I  watched  it  until 
it  w^as  out  of  sight,  thinking  of  the  legend  of 
the  cruel  bishop  and  his  tragical  fate.  We 
scarcely  took  time  to  eat  our  meals,  but  rev- 
eled in  glorious  views  all  day,  stopping  for  a 
few  minutes  in  the  afternoon  at  "  fair  Bingen 
on  the  Khine,"  a  pretty  little  village  nestling 
close  at  the  foot  of  a  rugged  mountain,  with  a 
splendid  old  castle  keeping  guard  high  above. 
On  and  on  w^e  glided  up  this  magic  river  until 
all  I  had  ever  read  or  heard  of  its  charm  had 
been  verified,  and  I  felt  that  nothing  else  in 
Europe  could  surpass  in  grandeur  what  I 
had  seen  that  day.  The  sides  of  the  mount- 
ains were  in  some  places  almost  perpendicular, 
terraced  to  the  top,  and  covered  with  vine- 
yards. It  was  a  puzzle  to  me  how  the  people 
managed  to  stick  on  the  steep  sides  long 
enough  to  cultivate  the  grapes;  and  I  am  sure 
but  for  the  terraces,  the  soil  w^ould  long  since 
have  been  washed  away. 

Mayence,    where   we    stopped    the    second 


316  A  Girl 's  Journey, 

night,  was  au  exceedingly  interesting  place, 
with  its  Roman  towers,  barracks,  narrow 
streets,  and  queer  buildings.  We  were  there 
on  Easter  Sunday,  aud  went  down  in  the  morn- 
ing to  attend  service  at  the  cathedral.  The 
music  was  made  by  an  organ  and  a  brass  band, 
processions  were  marching  around,  while 
priests  and  chorister  boys  in  red,  white,  black, 
purple,  and  gold,  hurried  to  and  fro,  swinging 
incense,  chanting  prayers  and  responses,  bow- 
ing, crossing  themselves,  bringing  in  and  car- 
rying out  silver  trays,  candles,  books,  etc., 
with  an  amount  of  ceremony  that  must  have 
been  a  great  weariness  to  the  people,  who  took 
little  part  in  the  service  except  to  keep  the 
place  in  their  prayer-books,  kneel  down  and 
get  up  at  the  ringing  of  a  bell,  and  cross  them- 
selves occasionally.  Finally  the  bishop  came 
in  and  marched  up  the  aisle,  preceded  by  a 
troop  of  priests  and  boys  carrying  candles, 
while  others  followed,  two  of  them  holding  up 
the  train  of  his  magnificent  robe,  which  was 
made  of  heavy  purple  silk,  embroidered  with 
gold.    In  his  hand  he  carried  a  long  golden 


River  Rhine — Cohlentz — Mayeticc.       317 

scepter,  while  on  the  outside  of  his  white  kid 
gloves  sparkled  numerous  costly  rings.  The 
church  was  as  cold  as  an  ice-house,  and  I 
could  not  but  think  that  constant  attendance 
would  be  very  apt  to  produce  pneumonia  and 
consumption  in  the  worshipers,  with  no  dan- 
ger of  an  attack  of  piety.  At  night  we  could 
see  the  Rhine  from  our  windows,  and  the  va- 
rious colored  lights  on  the  bridge  appeared  as 
strings  of  sparkling  jewels  stretched  across 
the  water,  which  shone  and  glistened  like  sil- 
ver in  the  moon's  soft  light,  while  in  the  morn- 
ing it  was  a  sight  that  made  our  hearts  rejoice, 
to  watch  the  sun  rise  over  the  lofty  peaks,  and 
brighten  up  the  frowning  mountains. 


WIESBADEN— FRANKFORT— WORMS. 

AN  excursion  out  to  Wiesbaden,  the  most 
popular  of  German  watering-places,  occu- 
pied one  day  very  pleasantly  during  our  stay 
at  Mayence,  while,  with  the  rich  descriptions 
of  things  furnished  by  our  fat  old  guide,  and 
his  original  rendering  of  the  "Queen's  En- 
glish," we  had  an  amusing  trip  all  through. 

Beaching  Wiesbaden  early,  we  went  out  to 
a  little  chapel,  built  as  a  mausoleum  over  the 
remains  of  his  wife  by  the  Duke  of  Nassau, 
who  owns  all  that  part  of  the  country,  and  is 
much  beloved  for  his  goodness  and  generosity. 
His  wife  was  a  Russian  princess,  who  died 
when  only  nineteen  years  of  age,  and  her  statue 
in  the  mausoleum  is  an  exquisite  work  of  art. 
The  building  is  Saracenic  in  style,  and  is  now 
used  for  the  services  of  the  Greek  Church, 
that  haviuLc  been  the  young  wife's  faith. 
(318) 


Wiesbaden — Frankfort —  Worms.       319 

Around  was  a  lovely  park,  and  on  top  of  the 
hill  a  cafe,  where  a  fine  band  played  during 
the  season.  We  girls  climbed  up  to  a  plat- 
form placed  in  the  top  of  an  old  tree,  and  had 
a  magnificent  view  of  a  large  part  of  the  Rhine 
country.  In  the  town  was  a  great  hall,  which 
was  formerly  used  for  gambling  purposes,  but 
is  now  a  spacious  concert-room.  Surrounding- 
it  was  another  beautiful  park,  and  scattered 
about  in  all  that  part  of  the  city  were  the  res- 
idences of  the  nobility. 

The  place  is  famous  for  its  hot- water  springs, 
the  natural  temperature  of  which  reaches  154° 
F.,  and  a  great  many  people  go  there  for  the 
baths.  After  drinking  of  the  water  and  find- 
ing it  not  at  all  pleasant  to  the  taste,  we  walked 
past  the  Castle,  the  Cathedral,  and  through 
the  Colonnade,  returning  to  Mayence  that  even- 
ing much  pleased  with  the  day's  excursion. 

The  city  of  Mayence  is  in  the  province  of 
Hesse,  and  we  saw  the  palace  of  the  Grand 
Duke  of  Hesse,  who  is  closely  connected  with 
the  royal  family  of  England;  went  to  the  house 
where  Gutenburg  lived,  and  saw  the  room  in 


320  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

which  the  first  printing-press  was  set  up.  On 
our  way  to  the  station,  going  to  Frankfort,  the 
new  gymnasium  was  passed  and  two  old  tow- 
ers, one  of  which  was  said  to  have  been,  a  long 
time  ago,  the  castle  of  a  robber  who  went  out 
at  night  with  his  men  and  robbed  the  rich  peo- 
ple, giving  the  stolen  goods  and  money  to  the 
poor. 

An  hour's  ride  brought  us  to  Frankfort-on- 
the-Main,  and,  taking  a  carriage,  we  drove  all 
over  the  city,  which  was  indeed  a  beautiful 
one.  There  was  a  great  deal  to  be  seen  con- 
nected with  the  Rothschilds— their  business 
houses,  winter  residences,  and  summer  villas; 
also  the  house  where  Goethe  lived,  two  or 
three  old  churches,  the  palm  gardens,  and  an 
ancient  hall  containing  portraits  of  all  the 
German  em})erors.  We  were  charmed  with 
Frankfoi't;  for  there  was  something  about  the 
style  of  the  residences  that  reminded  us  of 
our  home  cities,  and  the  people  were  said  to 
be  exceptionally  refined  and  intelligent. 

One  fact  impressed  us  greatly  in  all  these 
German  towns:  the  large  number  of  soldiers 


U'icshadc/i — Frankfort —  IJ'orms.        321 

with  which  they  are  infested  and  oppressed. 
It  seemed  to  me  that  with  such  an  army  Ger- 
many ought  to  be  able  to  conquer  everyhody, 
every irh ere.  The  people  who  have  to  be  taxed 
to  meet  this  enormous  expense  say  it  is  their 
ruin,  especially  now  since  Bismarck  has  suc- 
ceeded in  passing  the  act  lengthening  the  time 
required  for  military  service. 

At  two  o'clock  on  Monday  we  left  Mayence 
by  way  of  the  Khine  again,  on  the  steamer 
"Moltke,"  but  as  we  had  already  passed  most 
of  the  fine  river  scenery,  spent  the  time  in  the 
saloon  until  landing  at  the  wharf  in  Worms. 
What  was  my  surprise  to  find  this  last,  instead 
of  a  city  the  size  of  Cologne  or  Mayence,  com- 
paratively a  small  country  town.  We  had  to 
walk  along  the  road  for  some  distance,  there 
being  no  carriages  or  omnibuses  at  the  land- 
ing, and  a  man  followed  after,  hauling  our  bag- 
gage on  a  little  cart.  It  happened  to  be  Easter 
Monday,  a  general  holidny  with  the  Germans, 
and  we  met  a  large  number  of  people  dressed 
in  their  Sunday's  best,  who  stared  at  us  with 

mouths  and  eyes  wide  open  as  though  they 
21 


322  A  GitrsJourneij. 

thought  us  to  be  American  Indian  savages, 
and  expected  us  to  draw  up  in  line  and  favor 
them  with  a  blood-curdling  war-whoop!  How- 
ever, we  did  nothing  of  the  kind,  but  kept 
straight  on  to  the  hotel,  "  Old  Emperor,"  which 
we  found  nice  and  comfortable. 

While  walking  along  the  streets  our  atten- 
tion was  attracted  to  a  number  of  strange- 
looking  bunches  or  bundles  of  sticks,  straw, 
and  mud  clinging  to  many  of  the  chimneys, 
and  were  told  that  these  were  the  nests  of 
storks;  that  it  was  considered  a  piece  of  very 
good  luck  for  one  of  the  huge,  ungainly  birds 
to  build  on  the  roof  of  the  house,  the  occu- 
pant always  taking  particular  care  that  no 
harm  should  come  to  it. 

The  chief  sight  in  AYorms  was  the  Luther 
monument,  and  our  guide,  for  the  first  time, 
was  a  woman.  After  she  had  gone  with  us  to 
all  the  places  of  interest — Luther's  tree,  the 
old  cathedral,  monuments,  etc. — besides  show- 
ing us  the  way  to  the  station  and  waiting  two 
hours  for  the  train,  she  refused  to  take  any 
'pay  for  her  service!     This  was  the  most  re- 


Wiesbaden — Frankfort —  Worms.       323 

markable  iucident  we  had  met  with  in  all  our 
travels,  and  the  very  surprise  of  it  was  almost 
enough  to  make  us  throw  up  our  hats  and  favor 
the  natives  wdth  a  genuine  ^var-whoop  after 
all — that  is,  the  younger  members  of  the  party. 
We  thanked  the  lady  most  heartily,  and  left 
the  place  with  pleasant  recollections  of  one 
person  who  w^as  willing  to  do  something  for 
the  sake  of  politeness  and  civility,  wdthout  the 
everlasting  demand  for  remuneration. 


HEIDELBERG— BADEN-BADEN— STRASBURG. 

AT  Manheim,  on  the  way  to  Heidelberg,  we 
crossed  a  bridge  which  marks  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Pihine,  so  that  now  we  had 
been  almost  from  the  mouth  to  the  source  of 
this  historic  river.  Heidelberg  is  a  perfect 
little  gem  of  a  city  hidden  among  the  mount- 
ains, full  of  beautiful  gardens,  line  residences, 
splendid  hotels,  and  lovely  drives. 

We  found  the  season  much  farther  ad- 
vanced there;  the  trees  and  plants  all  bud- 
ding, and  some  of  tlie  fruit-trees  in  bloom. 
During  our  drive  in  the  afternoon  we  crossed 
over  the  charming  river  Neckar,  which  finds 
its  way  down  from  the-  Alps  through  the  cen- 
ter of  the  town,  lending  just  enough  variety 
to  the  view  to  make  it  perfect,  while  high 
above,  overlooking  all  this,  is  a  fine  old  castle, 

or  rather  the  ruins  of  one,  though  workmen 
(324) 


Hcidelbeff) — Baden-Bcaleii — Sfra^^burg.  325 

were  busily  engaged  in  restoring  it.  These 
rains  are  called  the  "Alhambra  of  Germany," 
and  are  certainly  most  picturesquely  situated. 

We  drove  past  a  good  many  of  the  univer- 
sity buildings  and  several  old  churches,  the 
prettiest  of  which  was  St.  Peter's,  all  over- 
grown with  ivy. 

Every  thing  in  Heidelberg  seemed  arranged 
for  the  comfort  of  tourists;  the  grounds  sur- 
rounding the  hotel  were  beautiful  w4th  shady 
walks,  tasteful  little  summer-houses,  numbers 
of  trees,  and  many  flowers.  This  is  a  small 
place,  so  it  did  not  take  long  to  see  the  sights, 
and  next  morning  we  were  ready  to  leave. 

It  required  only  two  hours  to  reach  Baden- 
Baden,  but  not  so  long  to  decide  that  it  was 
altogether  lovely,  situated  near  the  base  of 
the  mountains,  w^ith  the  hills  around  a  dark, 
purplish  hue,  their  sides  covered  with  long 
stretches  of  the  celebrated  Black  Forest. 

I  am  not  surprised  at  the  story  the  Germans 
love  to  tell  of  this  place.  They  say  that  the 
"  angels  carried  the  Garden  of  Eden  to  heaven, 
and  on  the  way  dropped  part  of  it,  which 


326  A  Girl  *s  Journey. 

earthly  fragment  is  now  called  Baden-Baden!  " 
and  in  appearance  it  was  indeed  a  paradise. 
The  grass  was  so  green  it  reminded  us  of  Ire- 
land, and  certainly  "nature  and  art  had  com- 
bined" to  create  in  this  spot  one  of  the  love- 
liest places  in  all  the  world. 

We  drove  some  distance  into  the  Black  For- 
est, which  forms  a  striking  background  for 
the  town,  and  all  along  the  way  noticed  many 
charming  villas  most  romantically  situated. 
There  were  quantities  of  bright  wild  flowers 
growing  on  the  edge  of  the  forest,  and  Susie 
and  I  pressed  a  number  of  them  for  our  col- 
lections. 

On  the  mountain  were  the  remains  of  an  old 
castle,  and  close  by  a  new  one,  or  at  least  one 
that  was  new  in  comparison. 

The  large  hall  where  the  people  go  for  hot 
mineral  water  was  quite  an  inviting  resort,  as 
was  also  the  Conversation  House.  In  front  of 
the  latter  the  band  played  in  the  afternoon, 
and  dozens  of  chairs  and  small  refreshment- 
tables  were  scattered  about  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  guests, 


Heidelherg — Baden-Baden — Str-ashurg.  327 

When  we  awoke  next  morning  at  nine  o'clock 
a  regular  suow-storm  was  raging,  which  some- 
what changed  the  aspect  of  affairs,  though 
Baden  was  still  charming,  even  under  these 
chilling  circumstances. 

When  we  reached  Strasburg  at  lunch-time 
it  was  raining,  but  this  did  not  prevent  our 
going  over  to  the  Cathedral,  as  that  was  what 
we  had  come  to  see.  The  quantity  of  stained 
glass  in  this  building  was  immense;  the  win- 
dows on  one  side  were  five  hundred  years  old, 
and  the  rose  window  in  the  end,  called  the 
Marigold,  was  truly  a  gem.  Most  of  the  old 
glass  was  saved  from  destruction  during  the 
siege  of  1871,  by  being  taken  out  and  placed 
down  in  the  crypt.  We  did  not  go  np  into 
the  tower,  as  there  was  a  mist  which  would  have 
obscured  the  view,  besides  we  had  already  sat- 
isfied our  ambition  for  climbing  by  ascending 
the  one  at  Cologne,  and  were  not  ready  to  try 
another  so  soon.  There  was  a  beautiful  piece 
of  work  in  the  church,  consisting  of  a  sculpt- 
ured pillar,  executed  by  the  daughter  of  the 
architect  of  the  building.     The  most  wonder- 


328  A  Girl  \s  Journey, 

fill  thing  was  the  clock,  in  the  north  transept 
of  the  Cathedral.  This  has  been  so  often  and 
so  minutely  described  that  it  seems  almost 
presumptuous  in  me  to  attempt  any  thing  fur- 
ther, therefore  I  will  only  tell  what  I  saw  as 
we  watched  it  for  an  hour.  It  struck  every  fif- 
teen minutes,  and  the  marvelous  figures  with 
which  it  was  adorned  did  marvelous  things. 
There  were  two  galleries,  on  one  of  which  was 
a  skeleton  which  struck  the  hours  on  a  bell 
which  he  held  in  his  hand.  The  first  quarter- 
hour  was  sounded  alternately  by  an  angel  and 
a  child,  the  second  by  a  youth,  the  third  by  a 
middle-aged  man,  and  the  fourth  by  an  old 
man.  Every  hour  a  tiny  cherub  turned  over 
a  sand-glass  and  one  of  the  twelve  apostles 
moved  forward  in  front  of  the  figure  of  the 
Saviour.  Each  day  of  the  week  was  repre- 
sented by  a  chariot,  which  moved  forward  in 
its  niche;  and  over  all  was  the  cock,  which 
flapped  its  wings  and  crowed.  The  astronom- 
ical part  of  the  clock,  showing  all  the  differ- 
ent changes  of  the  moon,  positions  of  the  phui- 
ets,  etc.,  is  to  be  wound  up  every  n'nie  hundred 


Heidelberg — Bciden-Baden — Strasburg.  329 

and  ninety-nine  year's,  while  the  time  part  is 
wound  once  a  week. 

We  staid  for  some  time  listening  to  the  ves- 
pers, and  then  walked  through  the  old  arcades, 
where  a  great  variety  of  articles  were  displayed 
for  sale. 

The  women  in  this  place  wore  strange  head- 
dresses, consisting  of  immense  ribbon  bows 
of  various  colors  pinned  on  top  of  their  heads, 
flaring  out  in  the  breeze,  and  looking  exact- 
ly like  sails.  AYe  were  told  that  the  Protest- 
ants dressed  in  green,  and  the  Catholics  in  red. 

The  university  buildings  were  quite  exten- 
sive, and  altogether  as  fine  as  any  we  had  seen, 
or  finer. 

The  houses  had  curious  pointed  roofs — the 
roofs  themselves  containing  a  number  of  stories. 
Many  of  them  looked  so  ancient  that  we  won- 
dered if  it  was  not  dangerous  to  step  inside. 

Having  seen  the  principal  sights  of  Stras- 
burg— the  Cathedral  and  its  wonderful  clock — 
we  next  day  started  for  Switzerland,  prepared 
for  snow,  ice,  glaciers,  bowlders,  lakes,  and 
mountains. 


BASLE— LUCERNE— BERNE. 

BASLE,  our  next  stopping-place,  is  one  of 
the  largest  cities  in  ►Switzerland,  though 
Geneva  and  a  few  others  are  better  known. 

The  old  cathedral,  a  Protestant  church,  con- 
tains the  tomb  of  Erasmus.  It  has  a  fine  organ 
and  some  rare  stained  glass  wdndows.  From 
a  terrace  in  the  rear  we  had  a  splendid  view 
of  the  city,  the  Upper  Ehine,  and  the  highest 
part  of  the  Black  Forest. 

The  town  is  divided  into  two  parts,  great 
and  little  Basle,  and  at  each  end  of  the  bridge, 
which  commands  fine  views  up  and  down  the 
river,  are  several  bronze  dragons. 

We  only  tarried  long  enough  in  Basle  to  see 
the  sights  and  rest  a  short  while,  then  contin- 
ued our  journey  to  Lucerne,  through  part  of 
the  Black  Forest,  skirting  around  Mt.  Jura, 

and  finally  plunging  into  a  long  tunnel  which 
(330) 


Basle — Lucerne — Berne.  331 

runs  through  the  mouiitaiu.  The  scenery  was 
grand,  though  often  obscured  by  snow,  whicli 
takes  the  place  of  rain  in  the  April  showers 
among  the  Alps.  We  saw  many  beautifully 
cultivated  valleys,  high  and  rugged  mountains, 
with  here  and  there  cozy  little  chalets  dotted 
between,  having  long  sloping  roofs,  carved 
gables,  and  eaves  projecting  so  far  as  almost 
to  touch  the  ground,  and  in  many  instances 
serving  instead  of  porches. 

We  lodged  at  the  hotel  St.  Gotthard  close 
to  Lake  Lucerne,  and  the  first  thing  T  saw  on 
opening  my  eyes  in  the  morning  and  glancing 
out  of  the  window  was  the  sunlight  flooding 
the  tops  of  the  snow-covered  peaks. 

After  breakfast  we  walked  down  to  the  lake 
and  feasted  our  eyes  on  its  loveliness.  O  the 
beauty  of  it!  As  blue  as  the  Danube,  set  off 
by  a  background  of  great  mountains  covered 
with  robes  of  shining  snow,  their  heads  out  of 
sight  in  the  clouds;  and  later  on  the  sunset, 
first  tinging  the  white  mantles  of  the  stately 
old  monarchs  Math  a  soft  and  delicate  pink, 
then  changing  their  hue  in  a  few  moments  to 


332  A  Girl's  Jonrneij. 

regal  purple  and  gold,  as  though  arraying  them 
for  some  fabled  banquet  of  the  mountain  gods. 
Across  part  of  the  lake  was  an  old  bridge — a 
rickety,  wooden  affair,  having  all  along  its  top 
three-cornered  oil-paintings,  which  seemed  to 
be  very  ancient,  and  must,  I  am  sure,  have 
had  an  interesting  history  connected  with 
them.  All  about  the  place  we  noticed'  quan- 
tities of  exquisite  wood-carving — every  thing 
imaginable  that  could  be  fashioned  in  wood, 
from  a  bear  to  a  box  of  jack-straws.  The  most 
beautiful  piece  was  the  celebrated  Lion  of  Lu- 
cerne, carved  out  of  the  face  of  a  solid  cliff 
from  Thorwaldsen's  finest  design.  Of  all  the 
sculpture  we  had  seen,  this  figure  was  the  gem, 
and  we  stood  for  a  long  time  gazing  upon  it, 
fascinated  by  its  expression  of  majesty  and 
power. 

After  lunch  on  Monday  a  trip  was  taken  on 
the  small  steamer  "  Helvetia  "  up  the  lake  as 
far  as  Weggis,  a  pretty  little  place  at  the  foot 
of  the  Righi.  It  is  here  that  tourists  generally 
begin  the  ascent  of  the  mountain,  but  as  it  was 
too  cold   for  us  to  attempt  it  wu  wandered 


Basle — Lucerne — Berne.  3'^3 


around  below,  gathered  liandfuls  of  wild  flow- 
ers, and  enjoyed  the  matchless  scenery. 

On  our  return  to  Lucerne  a  walk  was  pro- 
posed to  the  old  wall  or  fortifications,  after 
which  Mary  Green  and  I  went  through  what 
is  called  tlie  Glacier  Garden,  where  we  saw 
holes  worn  in  the  rocks  by  the  passage  of  a 
glacier,  with  numerous  bowlders  and  debris 
scattered  along  its  track. 

On  the  shores  of  the  hike  were  lovely  cha- 
teaux, picturesque  little  boat-houses,  and  hand- 
some residences  with  green  and  velvety  lawns 
sloping  down  to  the  water.  It  was  just  as 
though  we  had  seen  spring  and  winter  face  to 
face;  for  on  one  side  of  the  lake  the  mountains 
trailed  their  white  coverings  down  to  the  wa- 
ter's edge,  while  just  across  the  wild  flowers 
were  out  in  great  profusion,  and  vegetation 
was  springing  into  life. 

We  could  see  the  Kighi  from  our  window, 
with  numerous  hotels  on  its  summit  and  a  rail- 
road running  all  the  way  up,  while  in  our  rear 
was  Pilatus,  a  much  higher  mountain,  and  a 
more  beautiful  one,  I  thought,  especially  at 


334  A  GirVs  Journey, 

dawn  and  sunset.  It  is  not  so  noted,  however, 
on  account  of  its  inaccessibility. 

As  a  matter  of  course  we  got  some  eidel- 
weiss,  though  I  cannot  boast  that  we  gathered 
it  ourselves.  Susie  and  I  were  very  glad  to 
be  able  to  add  this  celebrated  flower  to  our 
fast-growing  floral  collections. 

We  could  not  remain  in  one  place  always, 
though  ever  so  delightful,  and  the  time  came 
at  last  to  leave  this  queen  of  all  the  Swiss 
cities,  beautiful  Lucerne!  On  and  on  we  jour- 
neyed past  more  "  views,"  until,  almost  intox- 
icated with  the  excess  of  beauty,  Ave  finally 
stopped  at  Berne,  where  a  delightful  surprise 
awaited  us  in  the  shape  of  a  package  of  mail. 

Berne  was  such  a  curious  old  place  that  I 
felt  almost  as  though  transported  again  to  one 
of  the  Oriental  cities,  especially  when  I  began 
to  note  the  disagreeable  odors  that  greeted 
us  during  our  first  walk  through  the  town. 
Among  other  interesting  objects  passed  was  a 
most  peculiar  fountain,  representing  a  bat- 
tered-up  old  ogre  with  a  bag  full  of  plump  lit- 
tle babies  swung  on  his  back,  while  he  held  iu 


Basle — Lucerne — Berne.  335 

his  hand  a  chubby  tot  whose  head  he  was 
biting  off  with  evident  relish.  I  had  always 
longed  to  go  to  Berne  and  bring  away  with 
me  some  kind  of  a  bear.  My  wish  was  at  last 
gratified,  and  I  became  the  happy  possessor 
of  several  of  these  celebrated  bruins,  among 
them  a  cute  little  wooden  one  for  my  watch- 
chain,  and  another  standing  on  his  hind  feet 
holding  up  a  match-case. 

We  went  out  to  the  principal  place  of  in- 
terest in  the  city,  the  bear-pit,  and  were  highly 
entertained  watching  and  feeding  the  four 
shaggy  occupants.  It  was  very  amusing  to  see 
the  great  brown  fellows  stand  up  on  their  hind 
legs  and  wave  their  paws  in  the  air,  looking  up 
most  beseechingly,  then  lying  down  flat  on 
their  backs  and  begging  for  the  bread  which  we 
threw  them.  Although  they  were  so  comical 
and  sleepy-looking,  we  were  told  that  some 
time  before  a  man  who  was  trying  to  recover 
an  umbrella  he  had  dropped  into  the  pit  fell 
in  himself,  and  the  bears  immediately  pro- 
ceeded to  make  a  meal  of  him,  and  finished 
the  job  in  a  very  short  time. 


(336) 


Basle — Lucerne — Berne.  337 

Parliament  was  in  session  during  our  visit 
to  Berne,  and  every  place  was  crowded.  All 
up  and  down  the  streets  were  numerous  little 
booths,  with  various  articles  for  sale.  At  the 
fountains  along  the  way  were  numbers  of  wash- 
women busy  at  their  trade — a  very  necessary 
sort  of  occupation  in  this  place,  for  Berne  was 
offensively  dirty. 

From  the  terrace  in  the  rear  of  the  hotel  we 
could  see  quite  a  long  stretch  of  country,  the 
view  made  especially  beautiful  by  a  sight  of  the 
Bernese  Alps,  witli  the  Jungfrau  conspicuous. 

Berne  means  "  a  bear,"  consequently  almost 
every  thing  in  the  city  has  some  reference  to 
that  solemn  and  ungainly  animal.  They  figure 
everywhere,  and  we  saw  bronze  bears,  wooden 
bears,  candy  bears,  and  even  gingerbread  bears, 
until  almost  tempted  to  make  good  our  escape, 
like  little  "  Golden  Hair  "  in  the  story,  and  flee 
for  our  lives  from  the  dominions  of  the  "  growl- 
ers." We  did  get  away  in  safety,  however, 
after  seeing  all  the  sights,  and  on  the  whole 
enjoyed  exceedingly  our  visit  to  the  queer  old 
bear-town. 
22 


INTERLACHEN— LAUSANNE-GENEVA. 

THE  steamer  "Stadt  Berne"  took  us  the 
whole  length  of  the  beautiful  little  Lake 
Thun,  and  then,  boarding  the  train  again,  we 
were  quickly  whirled  on  to  Interlachen,  where 
we  settled  ourselves  at  the  Hotel  Victoria— 
about  the  best  in  the  place  -  highly  delighted 
with  our  surroundings.  From  the  windows 
was  a  fine  view  of  the  stately  "Jungfrau" 
rearing  its  snow-covered  head  high  up  above 
the  surrounding  peaks. 

After  a  walk  almost  as  far  as  Lake  Brienz, 
and  to  the  little  souvenir  shops  wliere  we  pur- 
chased a  number  of  alpenstocks,  Susie  and  I 
concluded  to  go  over  to  the  foot  of  the  *' Jung- 
frau"  and  gather  some  wild  flowers.  Taking 
with  us  our  stout  alpenstocks,  and  bidding  the 
rest  of  the  party  wait  for  us  on  the  road,  we 
started  across  the  level  valley  in  the  direction 
(338) 


Interlachen — Lausanne — Geneva.       339 


of  the  mountains.     On  and  on  we  walked,  toil- 
ing over  the  rough  fields,  and,  strange  to  say, 
apparently  getting  little  nearer  the  end  of  our 
journey  than  when  it  began.     I  hesitate  to 
say  how   many  weary    miles   we   must   have 
tramped,  plodding  determinedly  on,  until  at 
last  the  goal  \vas  nearly  reached,  when,  alas 
for  our  perseverance!  just  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  we  had  been  so  long  approaching, 
we  "  came  to  a  river,  and  couldn't  get  across," 
even  if  we  had  been  willing  to  "give  five  dol- 
lars for  an  old  gray  horse."     It  was  a  swift, 
jolly  little  mountain  stream  that  bade  us  defi- 
ance as  it  rippled,  gurgled,  and  tumbled  over 
its  rocky  bed,  seeming  to  chuckle  with  merri- 
ment over  our  disappointment.     How  we  dis- 
liked to  stop,  with  that  delectable  mountain 
almost  within  reach,  "so  near  and  yet  so  far!" 
Bat  the  bridge  was  a  mile  or  two  up  the  river, 
we  were  completely  worn  out,  and  our  patience 
exhausted;  so,  gathering  a  few  leaves  and  blos- 
soms from  the  banks  of  the  mocking  stream, 
we  sadly  and  wearily  retraced  our  steps. 
Hurrying  back  tlirough  the  gathering  dusk, 


340  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

we  found  Uncle  Robert  starting  out  iu  search 
of  us,  and  he  was  heartless  enough  to  JkikjIi  at 
our  discomfiture.  That  night  we  were  as  tired 
a  pair  of  j^edestrians  as  ever  attempted  to 
scale  a  mountain,  while,  to  add  to  our  disgust 
and  chagrin,  we  found  next  morning,  upon  in- 
vestigation, that  the  elevation  we  had  so  near- 
ly reached  was  not  the  JiUKjfrau  at  all,  but 
some  similar  eminence  that  we  had  mistaken 
for  it. 

On  the  return  trip  from  Interlachen  we  went 
over  the  route  on  the  same  steamer;  but  the 
trip  was  much  enlivened  by  the  presence  of  a 
number  of  Swiss  mountaineers,  many  of  them 
young  boys,  on  their  way  to  America,  expect- 
ing to  be  joined  by  one  hundred  and  seventy 
others  at  Berne.  It  was  a  lively  crowd.  On- 
ly their  leader  could  speak  a  little  English, 
and  nearly  all  of  them  were  tipsy.  They  in- 
vited Uncle  Robert  to  have  some  of  cheir 
Swiss  whisky,  and,  when  he  refused,  assured 
him  they  "  would  treat  him  to  beer  when  they 
got  to  Berne."  Many  of  them  had  pieces 
of   eidelweiss   stuck    in    their    hats,   and   all 


InterJachen — LauscDinc — Geneva.        341 

were  dressed  in  the  coarsest  and  roughest 
clothes. 

There  was  an  English  boy  on  the  steamer 
carrying  with  him  to  his  home  in  London  a 
beautiful  St.  Bernard  dog,  that  he  had  bought 
at  one  of  the  villages.  It  was  a  cunning  black- 
and-white  puppy,  and  we  girls  soon  made 
friends  with  the  little  master;  and  being  es- 
pecially fond  of  dogs,  I  was  sorely  tempted  to 
find  one  to  bring  home  myself. 

Stopping  at  Berne  only  long  enough  to 
get  the  baggage,  we  had  another  pleasant 
journey  to  Lausanne,  passing  some  very  fine 
scenery  on  the  way.  Bunning  for  quite  a 
long  distance  through  a  deep  tunnel,  and  sud- 
denly speeding  out  into  the  sunshine,  there 
burst  on  our  sight  an  entrancing  view  of  Lake 
Leman  ( Geneva).  We  were  high  on  the  side 
of  a  cliff,  and,  far  below,  the  lake  shone  in 
the  sun  like  turquoise,  with  the  water's  edge 
lined  with  charming  villages,  and  the  mount- 
ains above  a  perfect  net-work  of  fields  and 
steep-terraced  vineyards. 

The  Gibbon  Hotel,  at  which  we  stopped  in 


■liiBag'Jiiiiiiiiiiii 

(S42) 


IntcrJachen — Lausanne — Genera.        343 

Lausaune,  was  so  called  because  in  its  garden 
Edward  Gibbon  finished  his  celebrated  "De- 
cline and  Fall  of  the  Roman  Empire."  Our 
windows  looked  out  on  the  lake,  and  we  were 
told  that  the  season  had  suddenly  jumped  from 
winter  to  summer,  with  very  scant  chance  giv- 
en to  spring;  so  the  face  of  the  whole  country 
was  smiling  under  the  beaming  rays  of  the  sun. 

We  took  a  long  drive  up  and  down  the  al- 
most perpendicular  streets  of  the  city,  visited 
the  new  Palace  of  Justice,  saw  all  the  sights, 
drove  down  to  the  wharf  on  the  lake,  and  took 
passage  on  the  "  Dauphin  "  for  Geneva. 

The  weather  favored  our  ride,  and,  after  en- 
joying another  series  of  charming  Swiss  scenes, 
we  came,  at  the  end  of  three  hours,  in  sight  of 
Mont  Blanc  and  Geneva. 

The  "Sweitzer  Hoff "  was  a  delightful  place 
to  rest,  and  with  the  aid  of  a  package  of  mail 
we  soon  made  ourselves  thoroughly  happy,  and 
once  more  settled  down  to  "housekeeping." 

Geneva  is  the  finest  and  I  suppose  the  clean- 
est city  in  Switzerland,  and  we  immediately 
fell  in  love  with  its  beauties,  especially  after 


344  A  GirVs  Journey. 

several  extremely  interesting  visits  to  the  mu- 
sic-box factories,  with  which  the  place  abounds. 
For  several  hours  wo  reveled  iu  melody,  and 
it  was  hard  to  tear  ourselves  away.  Tliere 
were  boxes  of  all  shai)es  and  sizes — little  Swiss 
chalets  with  machinery  inside  that  played 
tunes  when  the  roof  was  raised,  chairs  that 
played  when  sat  upon,  albums  that  played 
when  opened,  door-knobs  that  played  when 
turned,  birds  that  sung,  boxes  that  sounded 
like  organs,  besides  all  sorts  of  cups,  glasses, 
bowls,  clocks,  vases,  ink-stands,  and  desks  that 
emitted  the  sweetest  of  sounds  upon  change  of 
position.  The  finest  of  all  were  the  grand  or- 
chestral boxes,  which  were  as  large  as  small 
pipe-organs,  and  played  whole  operas  straight 
through  in  such  a  spirited  manner,  with  every 
instrument  so  distinct  that  if  our  eyes  had  been 
shut  we  would  scarcely  have  believed  we  were 
not  listening  to  a  perfectly  trained  orchestra 
of  thirty  or  forty  pieces.  One  of  the  funniest 
musical  devices  was  an  orchestra  of  bears,  one 
of  which,  wearing  a  pair  of  spectacles,  played 
on  a  hand-organ,  all  the  time  turning  his  head 


Interlachen — Lausanne — Geneva.        345 

from  side  to  side  in  the  most  comical  way  im- 
aginable; another  beat  the  drum  and  played 
on  a  pair  of  cymbals,  while  a  third  marched 
solemnly  up  and  down,  keeping  step  to  the 
music  as  he  walked;  still  another  alternately 
raised  himself  up  and  then  fell  down,  rolling 
his  eyes  about  and  snapping  his  jaws  most  fe- 
rociously. It  was  an  amusing  company  of 
performers,  and  afforded  us  a  hearty  laugh  as 
we  watched  their  antics. 

On  Sunday  morning  Mary  Green,  Susie,  and 
I  went  to  church  at  the  English  chapel,  where 
there  was  a  great  deal  of  service,  but  very  lit- 
tle sermon,  while  Uncle  Eobert  heard  a  dis- 
course in  French  at  the  church  where  John 
Calvin  used  to  preach.  Almost  everybody  in 
Geneva  spoke  French,  and  the  appearance  of 
things  in  general  was  once  more  decidedly 
Frenchy. 

We  saw  from  our  window  several  times,  a 
little  turn-out  that  was  pretty  enough  to  set 
any  child  wild  with  delight:  a  tiny  open  car- 
riage, or  brett,  made  just  like  the  real  "  grown- 
up "  ones,  with'  two  seats  below,  and  one  above 


346  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

for  the  driver,  and  drawn  by  two  gentle-look- 
ing goats.  The  little  folks  gathered  about  it 
in  crowds,  and  many  were  the  wistful  glances 
directed  toward  the  dainty  trap  and  pair. 

Out  in  the  middle  of  the  river  Rhone,  with 
bridges  running  diagonally  from  each  bank, 
was  a  small  pleasure-garden  or  park,  called 
Rousseau's  Island,  on  which  was  a  statue  of 
that  famous  author  and  philosopher. 

After  visiting  Calvin's  house  and  church, 
and  going  through  a  watch  manufactory,  where 
they  showed  us  some  works  they  had  made 
for  Tiffany,  New  York,  and  others  for  our 
Nashville  jeweler,  Mr.  Stief,  we  girls  were 
each  made  happy  by  the  purchase  of  a  lovely 
little  gold  watch  with  our  names  engraved  on 
the  cases,  to  take  home  as  souvenirs  of  this 
most  delightful  city  of  time-pieces.  We 
could  not  leave  Geneva  without  visiting  the 
shops,  but  as  we  went  through  an  unex- 
plored part  of  the  city  on  the  way,  Susie  and 
I,  strange  to  say,  found  it  rather  agreeable 
than  otherwise. 

Just  below  the  bridge  on  the  Rhone,  work- 


Infcrlachen — Lausanne — Geneva.       347 

men  were  engaged  draining  part  of  tlie  river, 
and  already  it  had  been  forced  into  a  channel 
about  half  its  original  width.  AV"e  watched, 
with  a  great  deal  of  interest,  a  man  in  diving 
armor,  who  was  busy  about  something  at  the 
bottom  of  the  stream.  When  he  came  to  the 
top,  as  he  occasionally  did  for  air,  he  seemed 
perfectly  exhausted,  and  the  rest  had  to  help 
him  off  with  his  heavy  suit. 

There  were  several  wash-houses,  floating 
and  stationary,  on  the  river,  where  long  rows 
of  women  stood  behind  boards,  scrubbing  and 
beating  the  clothes  with  i)addles.  We  were 
told  that  they  had  to  pay  ten  centimes  (about 
two  cents)  each  for  the  use  of  the  boards  in 
the  houses.  There  was  also  a  floating  swim- 
ming-school and  bath-house  close  by. 

Next  morning  we  rode  out  through  the  sub- 
urbs, where  every  thing  was  beautifully  green 
and  fresh,  and  took  our  last  look  at  this  charm- 
ing city  of  the  Swiss. 


PARIS  AGAIN. 

WE  were  assured  and  re-assured  by  the 
guards  at  the  railroad  -station  in  Geneva 
that  there  would  be  "no  stop  or  change  of 
cars  until  arriving  at  Paris; "  so  we  settled  our- 
selves comfortably  in  the  coupe,  with  bags, 
bundles,  and  baskets  to  the  number  of  eight- 
een pieces,  for  a  long  all-night  journey  to  the 
French  capital. 

We  had  divested  ourselves  of  hats  and 
wraps,  and  were  just  dozing  contentedly,  when 
the  monotony  of  things  was  rudely  broken  by 
the  sudden  throwing  open  of  the  door  and  the 
appearance  of  the  conductor,  who  hurriedly 
shouted  something  in  our  ears.  We  felt  quite 
bewildered,  and  sat  still  trying  to  comprehend 
what  was  expected  of  us,  the  official  mean- 
while becoming  frantic  in  his  jabbering  and 

gesticulations.     We  at  last  concluded  it  would 
(348) 


Paris  Again,  349 


be  better  to  leave  the  car  and  find  out  the 
trouble,  so  hastily  threw  on  shoes,  collars, 
cuffs,  hats,  veils,  jackets,  and  cloaks,  while 
everybody  grabbed  the  baggage  of  everybody 
else  and  made  a  rush  for  the  door.  Uncle  Rob- 
ert left  all  his  things  in  his  haste,  and  dashed 
down  the  steps  wdth  a  2)illow  which  he  had 
rented  for  Aunt  Anna's  comfort  during  the 
night.  The  guard  insisted  that  it  be  left  in 
the  car,  w^hereupon  followed  a  most  animated 
discussion  in  French  and  English  as  to  whether 
the  pillow  should  go  or  stay,  finally  ending  in 
our  party  triumphantly  bearing  it  off,  together 
with  all  the  baskets,  umbrellas,  alpenstocks, 
shawls,  and  hand-bags.  My  hat  had  become 
somewhat  caved  in  at  the  top  during  the  exit, 
and  all  of  us  looked  decidedly  sleepy,  and  much 
as  though  suddenly  "scared  up."  Marching 
on,  having  no  idea  where,  we  found  that  they 
only  wanted  us  to  step  out  for  a  few  minutes 
and  witness  the  usual  custom-house  examina- 
tion of  the  valises.  That  being  over,  we  filed 
back,  pillow  and  all,  and  took  our  places  in  the 
same  coupe,  feeling  relieved  that  the  trouble 


350  A  GirVs  Journey. 

was  over.  But  alas  for  liumau  hopes!  We 
had  hardly  gotten  thiugs  arranged  again  to 
our  satisfaction,  and  had  not  finished  laugh- 
ing over  the  exciting  incident,  when  the  train 
stopped,  the  door  swung  open,  and  the  guard 
shouted  once  niore  something  that  sounded 
like  "  Chainge! "  In  a  moment  all  was  confu- 
sion. AYe  donned  our  wraps,  grabbed  the  bag- 
gage, climbed  out  of  the  car,  and  following  the 
conductor,  made  our  way  to  the  other  side  of 
the  station,  where  we  stood  waiting  for  some- 
thing, we  knew  not  what.  Pi-esently  another 
train  came  thundering  along,  into  which  we 
were  hurried,  and  left  to  rest  in  peace  for  the 
remainder  of  the  journey. 

Arriving  at  the  Hotel  de  Rohan,  in  Paris, 
we  were  told  that  "  Mr.  Eastman,  his  wife,  and 
Mr.  John  Eastman  (who  had  come  over  from 
Nashville  to  join  them)  had  left  there  only  the 
day  before." 

Our  room  windows  looked  upon  the  Avenue 
de  rOpera,  with  the  Grand  Opera  House  at  the 
end  of  the  street,  and  altogether  a  more  desir- 
able location  could  not  have  been  found  in  the 


Paris  Again.  861 


city.  Just  across  on  one  side  was  the  Louvre, 
and  on  tiie  other  the  Palais  Koyal. 

After  so  many  months  of  constant  travel  we 
found  ourselves  in  the  condition  of  Miss  Flora 
McFlimsy,  with  "nothing  to  wear,"  and  it  was 
absolutely  necessary  to  do  some  shopping  be- 
fore going  farther. 

I  have  mentioned  before  that  shopping  was 
a  bore  to  nie,  and  I  found  it  especially  so  in  a 
great  city  like  Paris,  where  there  was  so  much 
of  interest  to  be  seen,  and  so  many  things  of 
far  more  importance  to  engage  the  attention. 
I  could  not  help  feeling  that  every  moment 
spent  in  the  stores  was  just  so  much  time  lost, 
and  counted  every  dress  I  was  not  to  get  as  that 
much  gained,  being  delighted  when  my  few 
necessary  purchases  were  made  and  I  could 
return  to  the  palaces  and  art  galleries. 

The  largest  shops,  or  stores,  were  the  Bon 
Marche  and  the  Magazin  du  Louvre.  In  the 
former,  Susie  and  I  managed  to  get  lost  one 
day,  and  it  was  more  than  an  hour  before  our 
party  found  us,  though  we  had  the  clerks  run- 
ning about  and  ringing  bells  at  a  great  rate. 


352  A  GirVs  Journey. 

It  was  a  queer  experience  to  be  lost  within  the 
walls  of  a  store. 

The  first  Sunday  of  our  stay  was  May-day, 
and  Q.  fete-time  with  the  French.  All  the  fount- 
ains were  in  full  play  at  Versailles,  and  many 
people  were  going  out  to  see  them.  It  was 
raining,  so  we  did  not  attend  service  at  any 
of  the  churches,  but  spent  the  day  qaietly 
within  doors. 

Next  day  we  visited  the  celebrated  estab- 
lishment of  Worth,  where  we  saw  many  hand- 
some costumes,  the  cheapest  of  which  was 
worth  seven  hundred  francs — about  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  dollars — quite  a  moderate  price 
for  that  king  of  dress-makers. 

Our  various  walks  and  drives  about  the  city 
took  us  through  the  Rue  Eichelieu,  the  Rue 
Vivienne,  across  the  Seine,  out  on  the  Champs 
Elysees,  many  times  up  and  down  our  own 
street,  De  I'Opera,  and  the  Rue  de  Rivoli.  We 
went  often  to  a  fat,  jolly  dress- maker's,  who 
had  only  a  limited  vocabulary  of  English,  and 
many  of  our  attempts  at  conversation  were 
ludicrous  in  the  extreme.     She  remarked,  in 


Paris  Again.  353 

great  astonishment,  when  trying  on  one  of 
our  dresses  a  week  or  two  after  taking  meas- 
urements, "0,  you  cooms  tinner!"  which  was 
rather  an  original  way  of  saying  "You  have 
fallen  off,''  while  another  one  was  told,  "Yoii 
cooms  ticker'''  for  "You  have  gained  flesh." 

We  met  in  the  dining  salon  one  day  Miss 
Smith,  the  young  lady  who  had  been  with  us 
at  Frau  von  Schack's  in  Berlin.  She  was  in 
the  city  with  her  mother,  having  recently  re- 
turned from  a  trip  through  Italy. 

The  crown  jewels  were  on  exhibition  at  the 
Louvre  during  most  of  our  stay  in  Paris,  and 
we  went  over  to  see  them.  Such  a  magnifi- 
cent display  I  had  no  idea  existed  in  any  one 
collection.  They  were  valued  at  ten  million 
francs,  and  before  we  left  were  sold  publicly 
to  various  parties — Tiffany,  of  New  York,  ob- 
taining several  handsome  pieces.  It  seemed 
a  pity  to  separate  such  a  splendid  assortment, 
but  the  people  were  anxious  to  do  away  with 
all  signs  of  royalty,  and  only  a  few  of  the  most 
valuable  and  historic  ones  were  reserved  by 

the  government.     These  jewels  were  kept  in  a 
23 


354  A  Girl  *s  Journey. 

glass  case  that  was  lowered  every  night  by 
macliinery  into  a  vault  for  safe  keeping. 

Uncle  Kobert  went  one  day  to  the  Hotel  St. 
Petersburg,  where  we  staid  during  our  former 
visit  to  Paris,  and  found  it  full  of  guests,  the 
first  floor  being  occupied  by  an  Indian  prince 
and  his  retinue,  and  the  second  by  an  English 
nobleman  and  suite. 

It  was  laughable  to  see  us  hurrying  about 
the  streets,  dashing  along  to  keep  up  with  the 
crowds,  and  dodging  from  one  side  to  the  other 
to  avoid  being  run  over.  The  people  seemed 
to  vastly  prefer  walking  or  driving  over  one  to 
going  round,  and  we  had  to  be  always  on  the 
alert  to  prevent  their  doing  so. 

The  Luxembourg  Galleries,  Notre  Dame, 
and  the  Palace  of  the  Louvre  were  again  vis- 
ited, besides  most  of  the  public  gardens,  i)arks, 
and  squares. 

One  morning  while  we  were  at  "coffee," 
Susie,  who  was  sitting  near  the  window,  called 
us  to  "come  and  look!"  There,  on  the  Eue 
de  Rivoli,  was  a  tiny  little  donkey — hitched  to 
a  cart  piled  up  with  straw — rearing  and  pitch- 


Paris  Again.  355 


ing  about  like  a  wild  liorse.  I  never  saw  such 
antics:  lie  first  stood  straight  up  on  his  hind 
feet,  while  his  enraged  old  master  tried  to  hold 
him  down,  then  kept  pawing  and  biting  at  the 
man,  who  slapped  him  soundly  several  times, 
first  on  one  jaw  and  then  on  the  other,  while 
the  straw  flew  in  all  directions,  and  the  people 
on  the  street  roared  with  laughter.  For  some 
time  it  was  a  regular  pitched  battle,  and  the 
two  participants  seemed  to  have  equal  chances 
of  victory.  Finally  the  little  fellow  must  have 
gotten  tired  or  grown  ashamed  of  his  undig- 
nified behavior,  for  he  suddenly  quieted  down 
and  allowed  himself  to  be  led  off  through  the 
archway  of  the  Louvre,  looking  so  solemn  and 
meek  that  he  would  never  have  been  suspected 
of  such  frisky  naughtiness.  I  think  he  must 
have  come  to  the  conclusion  all  at  once  that  it 
was  time  for  him  to  strike,  and  he  struck! 

Pleasure  seemed  the  main  object  with  these 
gay  Parisians,  and  the  public  gardens  were  fa- 
vorite places  for  seeking  it.  These  were  beau- 
tifully laid  out,  with  grass,  trees,  flowers, 
fountains,  and  statuary,  and  were  thronged 


356  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

with  children  who  seemed  "as  happy  as  the 
days  are  long."  One  afternoon,  in  the  garden 
of  the  Palais  Hoyal,  we  stopped  to  watch  a 
Punch  and  Judy  show,  and  a  little  farther  on 
saw  a  company  of  boys  having  fine  fun  sail- 
ing their  boats  on  the  pool  around  one  of  the 
fountains.  It  would  appear,  however,  that  the 
majority  of  the  people  are  little  better  than 
heathens;  indeed,  a  heathen  is  less  guilty  than 
one  of  these  enlightened  sinners.  There  is 
such  utter  disregard  for  the  Sabbath,  so  many 
dreadful  scenes  enacted,  and  altogether  so 
much  wickedness  in  plain  view,  that  one  is 
constantly  shocked  and  grieved  by  the  sight, 
and  cannot  help  thinking  how  sad  it  is  that 
such  a  beautiful  place  should  be  the  home  of 
an  almost  godless  people! 

Packing  up  every  thing  and  sending  one 
trunk  on  to  New  York,  we  left  Pai'is  after  a 
stay  of  three  w^eeks,  crossing  the  channel  from 
Dieppe  to  New  Haven.  We  lay  down  on  our 
berths  just  before  midnight — the  ladies  all  in 
one  cabin  -and  thus  got  a  little  sleep  before 
morning.     At  five  o'clock  the  steamer  started, 


Paris  Again.  357 


and  we  "all  with  one  accord  "  awoke,  and  then 
began  the  horrors!  Everybody  near  us  was 
sick  except  the  stewardess,  and  even  the  officers 
admitted  that  it  was  "  pretty  rough  and  chop- 
py." The  vessel  rolled  and  pitched,  while  the 
wind  blew  a  veritable  gale,  and  we  concluded 
that  this  was  certainly  the  worst  experience  of 
all  our  various  spells  of  ''mal  de  mer."  I  did 
not  learn  the  name  of  the  dreadful  steamer, 
and  have  never  cared  to  know.  All  1  wanted 
was  just  to  get  off  and  away  from  it.  How 
happy  we  were  when  at  last  "New  Haven  was 
refichedl  and  what  svreet  music  it  was  to  hear 
the  guards,  porters,  and  railroad  officials  speaJc- 
i)ig  English !  For  eight  long  months  we  had 
been  as  "foreigners  in  a  strange  land,"  rarely 
hearing  our  mother-tongue  except  as  we  spoke 
to  each  other.  Now  the  welcome  sound  made 
our  hearts  rejoice,  and  soon  our  seasick  bodies 
were  refreshed  and  strengthened,  making  us 
feel  that  this  was  the  next  best  thing  to  reach- 
ing  America. 


LONDON. 

WE  arrived  in  London  at  three  o'clock  p.m., 
leaving  the  cars  at  Victoria  Station.  The 
first  thing  that  attracted  our  attention  on  the 
way  to  the  hotel  was  the  number  of  posters 
and  flaming  placards  advertising  *' Buffalo 
Bill  "  and  his  "  Wild  West  Show."  They  told 
us  that  nearly  everybody  in  London  had  been 
to  see  the  cowboys  and  Indians,  from  the 
Queen  down  to  the  cab-drivers. 

On  reaching  the  Inns  of  Court  we  saw  a 
number  of  familiar  faces,  and  were  given  the 
same  rooms  occupied  by  us  when  there  before. 
The  porters  and  chamber-maids  remembered 
us,  and  even  the  furniture  had  a  home  look. 
We  dined  at  an  early  hour,  retired  before  dark, 
and  did  not  breakfast  next  morning  until  after 
ten  o'clock,  thus  giving  ourselves  a  good  rest 

after  the  exhausting  trip  across  the  channel. 
(358) 


London,  359 

During  the  morning  Uncle  Eobert  went 
down  to  Cook's  office,  and  met  tiiere  Mr.  Dat- 
tari.  He  was  stopping  in  London  for  awhile 
between  trips,  and  called  to  see  us  that  even- 
ing. He  had  been  over  the  Egypt  and  Pales- 
tine tour,  since  leaving  us,  with  a  party  of 
thirty-two,  and  gave  a  most  graphic  descrip- 
tion of  their  hazardous  landing  at  Jaffa,  be- 
sides numerous  adventures  on  the  way  through 
the  Holy  Land. 

The  weather  was  foggy  and  cloudy,  so  that 
a  glimpse  of  the  sun  was  rare,  and  we  were  in- 
clined to  agree  with  the  young  Englishman 
who  pronounced  it  "beastly."  One  day  it 
snowed  quite  briskly  for  awhile,  which  was 
rather  ^vintery,  we  thought  for  the  twentieth 
of  May.  By  way  of  contrast,  the  letters  from 
home  reported  the  weather  as  being  very 
warm  "  on  that  side." 

Expecting  to  begin  the  homeward  journey 
in  a  few  days,  and,  concluding  it  would  be  bet- 
ter to  get  through  with  the  heaviest  packing 
first,  we  proceeded  at  once  to  fill  the  large 
bos.es  and  trunks,  and  put  them  out  of  the  way. 


360  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

It  was  no  small  undertaking,  and  we  heartily 
rejoiced  when  it  was  accomplished,  and  sight- 
seeing in  London  could  be  resumed. 

Sunday  morning  we  went  to  hear  Mr.  Spur- 
geon  the  second  lime,  and  were  more  than 
ever  impressed  by  his  wonderful  power  in  the 
pulpit.  We  had  heard  the  finest  cathedral  or- 
gans, the  most  beautiful  choir  music,  solemn 
chants  and  grand  oratorios,  but  nothing  in  all 
Europe  to  compare  in  soul-inspiring  melody 
with  the  simple  gospel  hymns,  sung  by  that 
immense  congregation,  with  no  organ  or  in- 
strument of  any  kind,  only  the  voices  of  the 
multitude  blending  together  in  a  volume  of 
praise  that  was  impressive  and  comforting  be- 
yond description.  We  had  seats  quite  near 
the  preacher,  and  heard  distinctly  every  word 
of  his  discourse,  which  occupied  forty-five 
minutes,  but  did  not  seem  half  so  long.  The 
text  was  Mark  iv.  40  :  "x\nd  he  said  unto  them, 
Why  are  ye  so  fearful?  how  is  it  that  ye  have 
no  faith  ?  "  In  the  evening  Uncle  Robert  went 
to  hear  Canon  Farrar. 

We  had  now  returned  to  the  land  of  regular 


London.  361 


meat  breakfasts,  but  during  our  travels  had  be- 
come so  accustomed  to  a  simple  moriiiug  meal 
of  coffee  and  chocolate,  with  cold  bread  and 
butter,  that  we  really  did  not  care  for  any 
thing  else.  The  first  morning  we  were  served 
with  beef-steak,  ham,  eggs,  potatoes,  and  the 
usual  coffee,  tea,  chocolate,  and  rolls,  it  seemed 
to  me  I  had  never  seen  such  abundance.  The 
sight  of  so  much  to  eat  quite  took  away  my 
appetite,  and  I  could  not  partake  of  any  of  the 
"extras."  The  second  morning  it  was  all  I 
could  do  to  force  myself  to  eat  a  bit  of  ham 
and  an  egg.  So  much  had  habit  done  for  me 
in  the  space  of  a  few  months. 

Monday  we  ladies  began  again  the  intermi- 
nable shopping,  spending  most  of  the  time  on 
Oxford  Street.  In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Dattari 
came  by  and  accompanied  us  to  the  American 
Exhibition,  the  principal  feature  of  which  was 
Buffalo  Bill's  Wild  West  Show.  There  was 
an  immense  audience  present,  and  we  were 
told  that  they  often  took  in  as  much  as  ten 
thousand  dollars  at  one  performance.  We 
were  highly  entertained  by  the  Indians,  buck- 


362  A  GirVs  Journey. 

ing  ponies,  cow-boys,  and  shooting.  On  the 
way  out  we  noticed  a  crowd  of  people  gathered 
around  a  little  tent,  and  on  going  nearer  dis- 
covered the  interest  to  be  centered  in  a  regular 
black,  thick-lipped  negro,  who  was  busily  en- 
gaged poppincj  corn  and  selling  it  to  the  crowd. 
Very  few  of  them  had  ever  seen  pop-corn  be- 
fore, and  were  anxious  to  taste  the  American 
delicacy.  It  was  rolled  into  balls,  stuck  to- 
gether with  sugar.  Mr.  Dattari,  to  whom  it 
was  something  entirely  new,  suggested  that  it 
must  be  the  sugar  that  made  it  so  white.  The 
old  darky  kept  calling  out,  while  the  corn  was 
popping:  "Come  right  'long,  an'  see  how  it's 
made;  as  white  as  snow,  an'  sweet  as  hone}-; 
don't  go  'way  widout  gittin'  some."  And  he 
drove  a  thriving  trade,  as  did  also  the  ice- 
cream-candy man. 

I  observed  nothing  in  the  American  exhi- 
bition room  particularly  new  or  interesting, 
except  numerous  patent  sewing-machines,  a 
striking  array  of  false  teeth,  and  some  fancy 
arrangements  of  ears  of  corn  (something  also 
unknown  to  the  English).     Some  of  the  latter 


London.  363 


were  made  up  into  dainty  little  thermometers, 
tied  with  bows  of  bright  ribbon,  while  others 
were  fashioned  into  dolls,  with  clothes  made 
of  shucks  and  the  hair  of  corn  silks,  besides 
many  other  devices,  showing  considerable 
taste  and  ingenuity. 

Tuesday  morning  was  spent  at  Whitely's 
great  bazaar;  and,  upon  returning,  we  stopped 
for  awhile  in  Hyde  Park  to  see  the  fine  turn- 
outs and  horseback  riders  on  Kotten  Kow.  I 
cannot  say  much  for  the  grace  of  English  girls 
on  horseback;  their  principal  object  seemed 
to  be  to  hold  on,  while  their  sturdy  cobs,  with 
tails  cropped  short,  went  jolting  along  in  a 
back-breaking  trot  or  gallop. 

On  one  of  the  streets  near  the  hotel  was 
Charles  Dickens's  "Old  Curiosity  Shop,"  an 
ancient,  queer-looking  building,  now  used  as  a 
waste-paper  warehouse,  and  looking  so  much 
as  the  great  novelist  described  it  that  I  would 
scarcely  have  been  surprised  to  see  "Little 
Nell"  kad  her  grandfather  out  of  the  door. 

The  climb  to  the  top  of  St.  Paul's  Cathe- 
dral— only   three    hundred   and   seventy-five 


(364) 


London.  365 


steps — was  a  little  disappointing  after  Co- 
logne, St.  Peter's,  and  Milan,  and  the  view  was 
not  particularly  good  on  account  of  the  irre- 
pressible London  mist,  or  fog;  but  we  enjoyed 
very  much  the  old  library  of  nine  thousand 
volumes,  and  the  Whispering  Gallery — the  best 
thing  of  the  kind  we  had  heard.  Two  addi- 
tions had  been  made  since  our  visit  in  the  fall — 
one,  a  handsome  marble  and  bronze  tomb  and 
statue  of  General  Charles  George  Gordon, 
placed  in  one  of  the  recesses  of  the  church 
by  his  brother;  the  other,  a  white  marble 
statue  of  Queen  Anne,  erected  in  front  of  the 
cathedral. 

Friday  morning  w^as  spent  in  visiting  the 
Royal  Academy,  and,  though  it  was  raining, 
we  enjoyed  the  trip  wonderfully.  The  gallery 
was  crowded  with  people,  and  many  of  the 
pictures  were  very  fine.  The  two  that  I  par- 
ticularly admired  were  "  Excelsior  "  and  "  For 
the  Safety  of  the  Public  " — both  dog-pieces. 

We  went  again  to  Madame  Tussaud's,  and 
found  several  new  groups  of  figures,  added 
since  our  former  visit — among  them  the  Queen 


366  A  Girl  *s  Journey. 


Regent  of  Spain  and  the  infant  king;  and  a 
royal  jubilee  group,  representing  Queen  Vic- 
toria as  she  looked  fifty  years  ago,  dressed  in 
her  coronation  robes,  surrounded  by  her  court, 
taking  the  vows  in  Westminster  Abbey. 

AVe  were  much  pleased  to  meet,  while  walk- 
ing about  looking  at  the  figures,  our  young 
friend  Mr.  Carter,  whom  we  had  seen  in  Ven- 
ice; he  had  been  in  England  for  some  time, 
but  expected  to  return  to  America  in  August. 

Our  farewell  look  at  London  was  taken  under 
a  clear  sky,  and  we  were  glad  to  see  that  "Mer- 
ry England  "  was  likely  to  have  a  sunny  sum- 
mer after  all  the  mist  and  fog  of  the  wintery 
spring. 


WINDSOR— ETON— STOKE- POGIS— OXFORD. 

A  SHORT  ride  brought  us  to  Windsor,  the 
chief  attraction  of  wliich  was  the  castle, 
or  "  Carstle,"  as  the  English  call  it.  We  were 
just  in  time  to  see  the  interior  of  the  building, 
as  it  was  to  be  closed  on  the  following  day, 
owing  to  preparations  being  made  for  the  ju- 
bilee celebration. 

Fortunately  the  weather  was  fine,  and  we  saw 
it  to  the  best  advantage,  finding  it  even  grander 
and  more  castle-like  than  we  had  imagined. 
The  Memorial,  or  Albert  Chapel,  was  beauti- 
ful, as  was  also  the  tomb  of  Princess  Char- 
lotte, carved  out  of  pure  white  marble,  with  a 
lovely  effect  in  color  produced  by  a  flood  of 
yellow  light  that  poured  over  it  from  the 
stained  glass  window.  We  climbed  to  the 
top  of  the  round  tower,  and  had  a  fine  view  of 

the  castle   grounds,  parks,  and  surrounding 

(367) 


(368) 


Windsor— Eton— Stoke-Pog is— Oxford.  369 

country;  visited  the  royal  stables,  and  then 
the  state  apartments,  chief  of  which  were  St. 
George's  Hall,  the  grand  reception-room,  and 
the  Waterloo  Chamber. 

Next  day  we  entered  an  open  carriage,  and 
drove  the  whole  length  of  what  is  called  the 
Long  Walk,  a  distance  of  three  miles,  from 
the  castle  to  the  statue  of  George  III.,  pass- 
ing first  through  the  Queen's  private  park,  and 
then  the  great  Windsor  Park.  In  the  hitter 
were  five  thousand  deer,  many  of  them  so  tame 
they  scarcely  noticed  our  carriage,  even  when 
it  passed  close  to  them.  On  the  way  we  met 
a  vehicle  in  which  w^ere  seated  two  ladies,  one 
of  whom  was  Princess  Eleanor,  daughter  of 
Queen  Victoria  and  wife  of  Prince  Christian, 
of  Schleswig-Holstein — a  rather  pretty,  styl- 
ish-looking lady,  with  nothing  remarkable 
about  her,  however,  except  her  royal  birth  and 
marriage. 

Queen  Anne's  Drive  was  a  delightful  one, 

extending  for  several  miles  through  a  thickly 

shaded  grove  of    English  oaks,  the  road-way 

covered  with  velvety  turf. 
24  " 


370  A  GirVH  Journey. 

Riding  past  Eton  College  we  saw  numbers 
of  students  on  the  streets,  going,  we  supposed, 
to  their  various  classes.  The  little  fellows  in 
the  lower  forms  were  dressed  in  hob-fa? Jed  jack- 
ets, tall  stove-pipe  hats,  broad  white  collars, 
and  long  trousers,  only  the  boys  in  the  high- 
er classes  being  allowed  skirts  to  their  coats. 
Uncle  Robert  was  much  amused  when  I  hap- 
pened to  remark  that  these  small  boys  re- 
minded me  forcibly  of  the  little  dog  in  the 
song,  only  they  had  their  ''coats  cut  short  and 
their  Itats  cut  long."  The  founder's  boys  wore 
gowns  and  "mortar-boards"  —  a  somewhat 
more  dignified  costume.  They  all  board  in 
the  houses  of  the  tutors,  who  are  not  allowed 
to  take  more  than  forty  at  one  time.  The  dif- 
ferent classes  have  separate  play -grounds,  and 
one  would  think  ought  to  be  happy  and  con- 
tented with  such  beautiful  surroundings. 

Next  we  drove  out  to  Stokie-Pogis,  a  little 
country  church,  the  grave-yard  of  which  fur- 
nished Gray  the  siibject  for  his  "Elegy;"  and 
just  such  a  quiet,  peaceful  spot  as  one  would 
imagine  it — quaint  and  picturesque,  the  walls 


Windsor— EtonStoke-Pogis— Oxford.  371 


overgrown  with  ivy,  and  the  whole  kept  in 
perfect  order.  The  turf-covered  graves  were 
gayly  sprinkled  with  wild  flowers,  of  which  we 
gathered  a  quantity,  while  the  old  sexton  gave 
us  several  sprays  from  the  yew-tree  beneath 
which  Gray  sat  when  writing  his  famous  poem. 
Inside  the  church  was  the  tomb  of  Thomas 
Penn  and  others  of  his  kindred;  and  the  stone 
baptismal  font  was  beautifully  decorated  with 
wreaths  and  clusters  of  sweet-smelling  blos- 
soms. The  poet's  grave  was  outside  not  far 
from  the  ivy-covered  walls,  and  a  more  quiet 
place  for  the  final  sleep  could  not  be  de- 
sired. Continuing  our  drive,  we  passed  Stoke 
Park,  once  the  home-place  of  William  Penn, 
while  near  Stoke-Pogis  the  celebrated  En- 
glish jurist  Sir  Edmund  Coke  had  his  res- 
idence, dying  there  in  1634  The  whole  route 
led  us  through  some  of  the  most  charming 
portions  of  England,  and  the  country  looked 
its  prettiest  as  we  wound  through  shady  lanes 
where  the  wild  flowers  grew  in  profusion,  each 
side  of  the  way  being  lined  with  beautiful 
hawthorne  hedges,  diffusing  a  delightful  fra- 


372  A  GirVs  Journey. 

grance  from  the  great  clusters  of  snow-Avliite 
blooms. 

Soon  after  arriving  in  Oxford  we  made  our 
way  to  the  "  Eoe  Buck  "  Hotel,  and  did  full 
justice  to  its  comfortable  accommodations  and 
savory  fare. 

Next  morning,  with  the  assistance  of  a  guide, 
we  took  in  the  sights  of  the  place,  going  first 
to  Lincoln  College,  where  John  Wesley  was 
once  a  Fellow,  visiting  the  famous  Bodleian 
Library,  comprising,  I  suppose,  the  most  val- 
uable collection  in  the  world;  also  the  Ead- 
cliffe  Library,  where  from  the  top  of  the  build- 
ing we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  city.  After 
going  into  one  other  library — that  in  Merton 
College,  the  oldest  collection  of  books  in  ex- 
istence— we  went  to  Christ  Church  College, 
which  was  the  largest  of  all,  and  had  at  that 
time  two  hundred  and  fifty  students.  They 
allowed  us  to  look  into  the  kitchen  and  pan- 
tries, and  we  were  much  interested  in  observ- 
ing their  neat  and  orderly  appointments.  This 
college  was  founded  by  Cardinal  Wolsey,  and 
its  chapel,  with  a  richly-carved  ceiling,  was 


Windsor— Eton— Stoke-Pogis— Oxford.  373 

especially  attractive.  We  went  to  Magdalen 
College  and  saw  Addison's  Walk,  which  was 
indeed  a  charming  ret-ieat,  heavily  shaded, 
ornamented  with  flowering  plants,  and  keep- 
ing close  to  the  bank  of  a  cunning  little  river 
that  gurgled  merrily  along  on  its  way  to  the 
busy  Thames.  It  was  at  Oriel  College  that 
"  Tom  Brown "  is  said  to  have  been  a  pupil 
while  "  at  Oxford."  In  all,  there  were  twenty- 
one  colleges  and  more  than  three  thousand 
students,  many  of  whom  we  saw  sauntering 
about  dressed  in  black  gowns  and  "mortar- 
boards." 

In  the  afternoon  Mary  Green,  Susie,  and  I 
went  out  to  Summertown,  a  suburb  of  Oxford, 
where  I  delivered  to  Mrs.  Koush  a  package 
that  had  been  intrusted  to  me  by  her  brother, 
a  gentleman  in  Columbia.  We  enjoyed  the 
walk  greatly,  and  on  the  way  back  passed  the 
Martyrs'  Memorial,  erected  in  memory  of  Rid- 
ley, Cranmer,  and  Latimer. 

I  admired  exceedingly  the  cozy  little  En- 
glish homes,  and  was  especially  impressed 
with  the  evident  fondness  for  flowers  displayed 


374  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

by  even  the  poorest  people.  No  thatched  cot- 
tage seemed  too  wretched  and  mean  for  a  small 
bed  or  staud  of  bright  plants,  and  I  could  not 
but  wish  that  our  own  people  were  more  like 
the  English  in  this  respect. 

I  am  sure  we  would  all  have  enjoyed  a  longer 
stay  in  this  charming  city  of  colleges,  but  there 
were  other  places  and  things  to  be  seen,  so  we 
again  took  up  the  line  of  march. 


LEAMINGTON— KEN  I LWORTH— STRATFORD. 

THE  day  after  arriving  at  Leamington,  hav- 
ing arranged  for  rooras  at  the  "Temper- 
ance Hotel,"  we  drove  out  in  an  open  carriage 
to  Warwick  Castle,  the  first  view  of  which  was 
from  a  bridge  over  the  little  river  Avon — 
about  the  smallest  stream  to  be  called  a  river 
we  had  seen,  and  must  have  been  dignified 
with  the  name  during  a  freshet. 

A  short  walk  up  the  shady  drive  from  the 
entrance  gate  brought  us  to  the  castle,  the  ex- 
terior of  which  was  especially  fine.  In  the 
state  apartments  were  the  customary  paint- 
ings, statuary,  and  relics.  The  present  Earl 
of  Warwick — as  is  usupJly  the  case — was  away 
from  England  at  that  time.  The  views  from 
every  window  were  superb,  and  I  found  my- 
self wondering  how  the  earl,  with  so  lovely  a 

home,  could  make  up  his  mind  to  sach  habit- 

(375) 


(376-^ 


Leamhigton — Kenilivorth — Stratford.    377 

ual  absence.  The  building,  viewed  from  the 
outside,  was  an  ideal  castle,  situated  as  it  is 
upon  the  banks  of  the  swift-flowing  Avon,  with 
its  rugged  walls  softened  and  harmonized  by 
the  ivy  that  creeps  over  them,  making  a  pict- 
ure of  surpassing  charm. 

A  sunny  sky  smiled  down  upon  us  next 
morning,  and  we  took  advantage  of  the  pleas- 
ant weather  by  driving  out  to  the  ruins  of 
Kenilworth  Castle.  All  along  the  way  were 
neat  little  sidewalks  bordering  the  country 
roads,  these  being  shaded  by  trees,  their  leafy 
branches  meeting  across  the  way,  while  again 
the  fragrant  havrthorne  added  its  sweetness 
and  beauty  to  the  scene.  Kenihvortli  was  a 
picturesque  pile  of  ivy-covered  ruins,  and  we 
girls  climbed  all  over  and  around  it,  exploring 
hidden  nooks  and  corners.  It  was  such  a  de- 
lightful day  that  a  great  many  people  from 
surrounding  towns  and  villages  were  out, 
among  them  a  crowd  of  boys  belonging  to  a 
Sunday-school  excursion,  who  made  the  old 
walls  rings  with  their  fun  and  merriment. 
We  considered  Kenilworth  perfect  just  as  it 


(378) 


Learn  ington — Kenilworth — Stratford.    379 

was,  and  ventured  the  hope  that  nobody  would 
try  to  "restore"  it,  for  certainly  no  addition 
could  be  made  to  its  matchless  beauty. 

Returning  to  Leamington  for  rest,  we  went 
again  by  carriage  to  Stratford,  passing  on  the 
way  the  old  Lucy  estate,  where,  in  the  days 
of  Sir  Thomas  Lucy,  William  Shakespeare's 
deer-stealing  escapade  is  said  to  have  oc- 
curred. 

In  Stratford  we  secured  rooms  at  the  "  Bed 
Horse"  Hotel,  a  queer,  old-fashioned  inn, 
where  Washington  Irving  staid  during  his 
visit  to  the  place.  They  showed  us  his  parlor, 
also  his  chair  and  poker,  the  latter  instrument 
carefully  "done  up  "in  a  silk  case. 

Just  across  from  our  hotel  was  the  "  Old 
Red  Lion,"  and  next  door  the  "  Golden  Lion." 
We  walked  to  Shakespeare's  house,  which 
looked  much  as  the  pictures  represent  it,  with 
its  quaint  old  double  door — the  upper  half  a 
kind  of  shutter,  and  within  numerous  pieces  of 
clumsy  and  ancient  furniture.  The  "best- 
room,"  pantry,  kitchen,  and  the  upstairs-room 
— in  which  "  Immortal  Will  "  was  born — were 


380  A  GirVs  Journey. 


all  shown  us,  the  rest  of  the  liouse  beiug  used 
as  a  museum,  where  were  displayed  various 
relics  of  the  great  writer — his  signet  ring,  dif- 
ferent editions  of  his  works,  his  jug,  a  cup 
made  from  his  mulberry-tree,  and  a  portrait 
of  him  taken  from  life.  This  last  is  consid- 
ered so  valuable  a  treasure  that  it  is  locked 
up  every  night  in  a  fire-proof  safe.  On  one 
of  the  small  wdndow-pahes%of  the  room  where 
Shakespeare  was  born  is  the  name  of  "  Walter 
Scott,"  said  to  have  been  cut  by  the  novelist 
himself  with  the  stone  in  his  diamond  ring. 
The  windows  bore  a  good  many  other  names, 
though  not  all  so  illustrious. 

The  old  stone  church  was  then  visited,  and 
as  service  was  being  conducted,  we  remained 
until  it  was  over.  It  w^as  the  day  before  Trin- 
ity, and  they  were  decorating  the  altar  and 
chancel  with  flowers  for  the  occasion,  making 
the  place  especially  attractive.  Besides  "Will- 
iam Shakespeare's  tomb,  which  is  here,  we  also 
saw  those  of  Anne  Hathaway,  his  wife,  and 
Judith  (Mrs.  Hall),  his  daughter.  One  of  the 
beautiful  stained  glass  windows  overlooking 


Leamington— Ken  il  worth— Stratford.    381 

the  great  poet's  last  resting-place  was  contrib- 
uted by  American  admirers,  and  is  indeed  a 
lovely  and  appropriate  tribute  to  his  memory. 
Outside  the  old  grave-yard,  beautifully  kept 
and  adorned  with  flowers,  sloped  down  to  the 
Avon,  and  the  whole  made  a  quiet,  peaceful 
spot  for  the  last  long  sleep.  Not  fai'  from  the 
church,  and  near  the  river,  was  a  pretty  and 
picturesque  building,  wdiich  w^e  were  told  was 
the  "  Shakespeare  Memorial  Theater." 

On  our  return  we  stopped  at  the  Shake- 
speare Hotel,  all  the  rooms  in  the  house  being 
named  for  his  different  plays— the  dining-room 
called  "As  You  Like  It,"  the  drawing-room 
"Much  Ado  about  Nothing,"  and  the  office 
"All's  Well  that  Ends  Well."  A  short  dis- 
tance out  from  Stratford  still  stands  the  small 
thatched  cottage  where  once  lived  Anne  Hath- 
away. 

Eeturning  on  Sunday  to  Leamington,  we 
worshiped  at  a  little  Primitive  Methodist 
chapel  just  across  the  street  from  the  hotel. 
The  building  was  not  elegant  or  costly— only 
a  plain,  country-like  church— but  the  service 


382  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

was  a  real  Methodist  one,  with  a  good,  honest, 
practical  sermon,  and  hearty  congregational 
singing.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  state  the 
fact  that  we  ritual-wearied  travelers  heartily 
enjoyed  the  simplicity  and  earnestness  of  a 
service  that  we  could  understand  and  be  prof- 
ited by. 


CHESTER— LIVERPOOL. 

A  DELIGHTFUL  trip  through  part  of 
Wales  brought  our  party  finally  to  Ches- 
ter. Among  other  interesting  places  passed 
on  the  way  was  Birmingham — that  dingy,  busy, 
manufacturing  city,  which  its  inhabitants  call 
the  "work-shop  of  the  world."  It  seemed  a 
perfect  forest  of  tall  chimney-stacks,  or  stalks^ 
as  the  people  style  them,  while  a  pall  of  smoke 
hung  over  the  place,  giving  it  a  decidedly 
gloomy  aspect. 

Eaton  Hall  is  the  country  seat  of  the  Duke 
of  Westminster,  whose  estate  is  about  five 
miles  square,  and  we  drove  out  from  Chester 
one  morning  to  visit  it.  Every  thing  was  ar- 
ranged and  appointed  on  a  scale  of  extraordi- 
nary magnificence.  The  Duke  is  immensely 
rich,  having  an  income  of  £2  ^s  a  minute,  but 
is  very  generous  withal,  and  several  charities 

(383) 


384  A  Girl  *s  Journey. 


were  pointed  out  which  his  liberalit}^  had  es- 
tablished. 

A  long  drive  through  the  shady  park  brought 
us  to  the  Hall,  which,  in  contrast  to  most  of 
the  places  we  had  heretofore  seen,  was  fitted 
up  in  luodern  style.  A  most  attractive  apart- 
ment was  the  grand  library,  containing  eleven 
thousand  volumes,  besides  a  magnificent  or- 
gan and  a  great  deal  of  handsome  furniture. 
The  paneling  of  the  walls  and  book-cases  in 
this  room  was  of  oak,  inlaid  richly  with  moth- 
er-of-pearl, while  a  tall,  carved,  mantel  cabi- 
net bearing  the  family  arms  served  to  com- 
plete an  effect  that  was  unusually  tasteful  and 
elegant.  Many  of  the  volumes  were  bound  in 
vellum  and  gold,  and  to  a  lover  of  books  formed 
the  principal  attraction  of  this  royal  treasure- 
house.  Passing  through  halls  beautifully  dec- 
orated with  costly  marbles,  rare  bric-a-brac, 
and  innumerable  gems  of  art,  we  were  conduct- 
ed into  the  chapel,  and  shown  the  tombs  of 
several  members  of  the  family.  The  whole  es- 
tablishment, with  its  surroundings,  was  per- 
fect in  design  and  beauty,  lacking  nothing 


Chester— Liverpool.  385 


that  money  or  taste  could  provide  for  its 
adornment,  and  I  found  myself  wondering 
once  more  that  people  who  own  such  lovely 
homes  should  leave  them  and  remain  away  so 
much  of  the  time,  and  why  this  should  be  the 
case  the  world  over. 

We  drove  through  a  good  many  streets  in 
Chester,  and  were  struck  with  the  queer  ar- 
rangement of  the  shops.  The  "rows,"  as  they 
were  called,  extended  along  even  with  the  sec- 
ond  stories  of  the  business  houses,  and  were 
really  arcades,  on  which  were  situated  most  of 
the  principal  stores  of  the  city.  It  was  a  nov- 
el experience  to  go  "dow^n-town"  and  do  all 
the  shopping  upstairs. 

A  church  and  a  school  built  by  the  Duke  of 
Westminster  were  pointed  out,  and  they  told 
us  that  all  the  fees  taken  at  the  Hall  were  de- 
voted to  charitable  purposes. 

The  time  had  now  come  for  our  last  railroad 

journey  before  the  departure  for  home,  and 

we  took  the  train  for  Liverpool,  from  which 

place  we  were  to  embark.     This  is  a  noisy, 

busy  town,  resembling  our  American  cities  in 
25 


386  A  Girl 's  Journey, 

its  hurry  and  bustle.  Crossing  the  ferry  over 
the  river  Mersey,  our  attention  was  directed 
to  the  largest  vessel  ever  constructed— the 
"  Great  Eastern,"  lying  at  anchor  in  the  har- 
bor. It  certainly  was  a  huge  affair,  and  be- 
side it  the  rest  of  the  ships  and  smaller  craft 
seemed  little  more  than  toy-boats. 

Uncle  Robert  went  on  board  the  "Etruria," 
on  which  we  had  engaged  passage  home,  ex- 
amined state-rooms  etc.,  and  reported  every 
thing  in  good  order.  This  steamer  was  the 
tivhi  of  the  "  Umbria,"  and  at  that  time  about 
the  fastest  on  the  water — in  fact,  had  made 
the  quickest  one-hour's  record  ever  known. 

We  went  down  to  the  principal  square  of  the 
city,  where  is  situated  St.  George's  Hall,  and 
after  walking  along  the  front,  examining  the 
equestrian  statues  of  Queen  Victoria  and 
Prince  Albert,  also  a  statue  of  Disraeli,  en- 
tered the  handsome  building,  and  found  the 
hall,  which  is  used  for  concerts  and  balls,  quite 
a  spacious  and  elegant  room.  There  were  two 
fine  stained  glass  windows,  representing  St. 
George  slaying  the  dragon,  and  besides,  a  large 


Chester — Liverpool.  387 

pipe-organ  and  numerous  statues  of  celebrat- 
ed persons.  The  outside  was  so  blackened 
and  discolored  (I  suppose  by  smoke  and  the 
effect  of  sea-air)  that  it  was  almost  impossible 
to  tell  of  what  material  the  edifice  was  con- 
structed. In  this  square  was  also  a  magnifi- 
cent column  erected  in  honor  of  Wellington 
and  Waterloo. 

We  were  surprised  and  somewhat  inconven- 
ienced by  the  scarcity  of  dry  goods  stores,  as 
we  had  some  necessary  purchases  to  make  in 
preparing  for  the  voyage;  there  were  gentle- 
men's furnishing  establishments  in  abundance, 
but  I  should  hesitate  to  say  how  many  blocks 
had  to  be  traversed  before  we  could  find  a 
place  where  they  kept  even  ordinary  pins. 

There  were  very  few  ladies  on  the  streets, 
the  majority  of  the  population  seeming  to  con- 
sist of  business  men,  rough-looking  sailors, 
and  the  most  wretched,  miserable  paupers. 
We  had  not  seen  so  many  beggars  and  dread- 
fully deformed  people  since  leaving  Italy. 

The  long  English  twilights  w^ere  a  constant 
source  of  wonder  to  us;  it  was  something  un- 


388  A  Girl 's  Journey. 

usual  to  close  up  shutters  and  pull  down 
shades,  to  keep  out  the  lights  when  the  time  came 
for  retiring,  which  with  tired  travelers  Avas 
generally  at  nine  o'clock. 

Finally  the  last  night  on  foreign  shores 
rolled  around,  and  we  settled  ourselves  to  sleep, 
sincerely  hoping  that  next  day  would  bring  us 
favorable  winds  and  waves  for  the  beginning 
of  our  voyage  across  the  Atlantic.  We  awoke 
to  find  the  weather  bright  and  pleasant,  with 
the  summer's  san  aglow,  and  every  thing  in 
harmony  with  our  happy  thoughts  of  home. 

All  had  been  made  ready,  bundles  securely 
tied,  trunks  strapped,  valises  coaxed  into  stay- 
ing fastened,  and  we  gayly  made  our  way  down 
to  the  docks,  after  feeing  the  numerous  wait- 
ers, porters,  and  chamber-maids,  who  invaria- 
bly gathered  to  see  us  off.  In  fact,  this  latter 
part  of  the  preparation  for  departure  made  us 
feel  quite  in  sympathy  with  the  exasperated 
American  tourist,  who,  while  standing  on  the 
wharf  at  Liverpool,  remarked  in  a  loud  tone 
of  great  disgust,  just  before  his  steamer  left: 
"If  there  is  a  hlarsted  Englishman  on  this  con- 


Chester — Liverpool.  389 

founded  island  to  whom  I  have  not  given  a 
shilling  let  him  come  now  and  get  it,  for  this 
is  his  larst  charncey 

After  waiting  for  several  hours,  a  small  tug 
conveyed  our  party  with  a  number  of  other 
passengers  out  to  the  "Etruria,"  where  we 
soon  found  our  state-rooms,  and  arranged 
things  in  order  for  the  voyage. 

There  was  hardly  as  much  excitement  when 
the  vessel  left  as  we  had  noticed  on  our  de- 
parture from  New  York,  but  there  was  enough 
to  keep  up  interest  until  half-past  two  o'clock, 
when  the  anchor  was  weighed,  and  we  found 
ourselves  once  more  at  the  tender  mercy 
Of  the  rolling  deep, 
Where  the  winds  their  revels  keep. 


THE  VOYAGE  HOME. 

WE  had  found  from  experience  that  a  "  life 
on  the  ocean  wave  "  has  its  disagreeable 
as  well  as  its  pleasant  side,  consequently  it 
was  not  with  unalloyed  delight  that  we  settled 
ourselves  in  the  steamer  chairs  and  watched 
the  shores  of  England  gradually  fade  from 
view. 

The  afternoon  and  evening  were  spent  on 
deck,  and  really  enjoyed,  as  the  weather  was 
fine  and  the  atmosphere  pure  and  bracing. 
When  at  last  the  time  for  retiring  came,  we 
listened  to  the  noisy  thud  of  the  screw  as 
though  it  had  been  the  most  harmonious 
music,  because  we  knew  that  each  revolution 
was  carrying  us  nearer  home  and  friends. 

Next   morning,  on  awaking,  we  found  the 

vessel  anchored  just  outside  the   harbor  of 

Queenstown,  with  Erin's  green  shores  spread 
(390) 


The  Voyage  Home.  391 

before  us.  Taking  on  a  number  of  passengers 
and  the  mail,  we  steamed  out  into  the  ocean 
again,  greeting  with  many  cheers  and  hurrahs 
the  ship  "Arizona,"  which  we  had  seen  start 
from  Liverpool  in  company  with  the  "  Etruria." 

At  noon  that  day  the  rocking  motion  began, 
and,  concluding  that "  discretion  was  the  better 
part  of  valor,"  we  girls  beat  a  hasty  retreat  to 
our  state-rooms,  and  before  very  long  to  our 
berths.  On  the  following  morning  the  waves 
were  in  entirely  too  playful  a  mood  for  comfort 
or  pleasure  on  deck,  so  the  day  was  spent  be- 
low; and  we  amused  ourselves  as  best  we  could 
with  a  number  of  books  that  had  been  pro- 
vided, and  our  never-failing  songs  and  games, 
assisted  by  a  huge  bag  of  lemons  and  a  cor- 
responding one  of  loaf-sugar,  though  for  such 
active,  vigorous  young  people  lying  all  day  in 
a  berth  soon  grew  to  be  monotonous.  The 
fog-horn  had  been  sounding  for  several  hours, 
and  we  were  told  that  the  decks  were  deserted 
by  the  passengers  on  account  of  a  disagree- 
able drizzle. 

Things  looked  somewhat  better  next  niorn- 


392  A  Girl  \s  Journey, 


ing,  and  sufficient  courage  was  summoned  to 
crawl  above,  where  a  greater  part  of  the  day 
was  spent,  though  we  did  not  dare  venture 
again  to  the  dining-saloon. 

In  the  afternoon  the  wind  began  to  rise,  and 
before  the  sun  went  down  we  had  to  give  up 
the  second  time,  and  dark  found  us  "fallen 
and  prostrate  "  within  the  narrow  confines  of 
our  berths.  Soon  after  we  had  retired  old 
Neptune  got  on  quite  a  "  lark,"  and  the  winds 
and  waves  were  so  rough  that  the  steamer  per- 
formed a  most  uncomfortable  seesawing  di- 
version—  any  thing  but  fun  to  us.  First, 
climbing  to  the  crest  of  a  mountain  wave, 
there  would  be  an  instant's  pause;  and  then, 
losing  all  hold,  the  ship  would  go  plunging 
dow^n,  down,  down,  with  a  crunching  sort  of 
sound  which  almost  convinced  me  several 
times  that  w^e  had  struck  the  rocks  at  the  bot- 
tom. Though  the  timbers  creaked,  and  every 
bolt  and  screw  seemed  strained,  the  brave 
"Etruria"  always  righted  herself  and  came 
to  the  top  at  last,  boldly  riding  the  boisterous 
waves.     I  had  always,  hitherto,  desired  to  wit- 


The  Voyage  Home.  393 

ness  a  storm  at  sea,  and  now  my  wisli  was 
gratified  iii  rather  too  literal  a  maniiei'.  I 
could  not  sleep,  but  held  on  to  the  sides  of  the 
berth  to  keep  from  rolling  out,  listening  to  the 
restless  billows  rushing  and  beating  about 
the  deck  above  my  head,  and  it  was  daylight 
before  I  finally  dropped  into  a  doze  from  mere 
exhaustion.  Fortunately,  none  of  us  were 
much  seasick  during  the  storm,  and  thus  one 
of  the  usual  horrors  was  avoided.  Next  day, 
however,  the  water  was  still  very  rough,  and 
we  lay  in  our  berths  suffering  tortures,  hoping 
sincerely  that  this  might  be  our  last  expe- 
rience of  a  "war  of  elements  and  rush  of 
waves."  Uncle  Eobert— the  only  one  of  us 
who  had  escaped  the  horrid  mal  de  mer — on 
his  return  from  an  exploring  trip  to  the  deck, 
informed  us  that  every  thing  was  closed  up, 
hatchways  all  down,  port-holes  shut,  and  the 
waves,  which  really  looked  "  mountain  high," 
washing  over  the  promenade  deck.  The  ship 
continued  to  roll'  so  much  that  it  was  difficult 
to  keep  from  being  thrown  from  the  berths, 
while  the  water,  dashing  up  over  the  port, 


394  A  Girl  '.s-  Joumei/. 

filled  our  room  with  a  green,  uncanny  sort  of 
light.  The  monotony  of  things  was  frequently 
relieved  by  the  crash  of  broken  china  and 
glassware  from  the  dining-saloon,  but  we 
rather  enjoyed  the  sound  of  that,  as  the  most 
tempting  edibles  would  just  then  have  been 
an  offense  to  us.  AVhat  a  relief  it  was  when 
on  Thursday  the  sun  shone  out  warm  and 
bright,  and  we  were  able  to  make  our  way 
again  to  the  fresh  air  on  the  uppe>r  deck!  The 
waters  were  almost  quiet,  and  only  gave  an 
occasional  playful  tumble,  as  though  amused 
at  the  remembrance  of  the  fright  and  discom- 
fort their  rough  frolicsomeness  had  caused  us. 
AYe  were  considerably  startled  that  after- 
noon when  the  motion  of  the  screw,  getting 
gradually  slower  and  slower,  finally  stopped 
altogether,  and  left  us  almost  motionless  on 
the  silent  water.  Nothing  can  be  imagined 
more  intense  than  the  quiet  of  a  ship  at  rest 
in  mid-ocean;  and  while  we  w^ere  ruefully 
contemplating  the  probability  of  drifting  for 
perhaps  hours  or  days  waiting  for  repairs  to 
be  made,  the  welcome  sound  was  heard,  and 


The  Voijage  Homo.  395 

we  weut  steaming  on  again,  much  relieved 
that  the  damage  had  been  so  easily  remedied. 

On  Friday  there  was  another  fog,  and  at  in- 
tervals during  the  afternoon  the  discordant 
sound  of  the  horn  was  heard.  Just  about 
sunset  it  cleared  off;  all  the  clouds  and  mist 
disappeared  toward  the  east—"  gone  back  to 
London,  where  they  belong,"  as  Susie  re- 
marked. In  the  west,  however — toward  home 
— every  thing  was  bright  and  beautiful,  as 
we  glided  on  in  the  direction  of  the  setting 
suuj  cheered  and  encouraged  by  the  glory  of 
its  radiance  and  the  certainty  of  approaching 
land. 

The  pilot  from  the  shore  came  aboard  at  ten 
o'clock  on  Saturday,  and  then  the  all-absorb- 
ing question  was,  "  Would  the  sanitary  officers 
reach  us  and  finish  their  examination  in  time 
to  land  that  night?  "  Passing  into  the  harbor 
of  New  York  as  dark  came  on,  we  had  a  good 
view  of  the  Statue  of  Liberty  holding  aloft 
her  gleaming  torch,  and  then  the  anchor  was 
cast,  and  we  gave  up  the  hope  of  getting  ashore 
before  morning.     In  a  little  while,  however,  a 


394  A  GirVs  Journey. 

filled  our  room  with  a  green,  uncanny  sort  of 
light.  The  monotony  of  things  was  frequently 
relieved  by  the  crash  (^f  broken  china  and 
glassware  from  the  dining-saloon,  but  we 
rather  enjoyed  the  sound  of  that,  as  the  most 
tempting  edibles  would  just  then  have  been 
an  offense  to  us.  AVhat  a  relief  it  was  when 
on  Thursday  the  sun  shone  out  warm  and 
bright,  and  we  were  able  to  make  our  way 
again  to  the  fresh  air  on  the  uppe>r  deck !  The 
waters  were  almost  quiet,  and  only  gave  an 
occasional  playful  tumble,  as  though  amused 
at  the  remembrance  of  the  fright  and  discom- 
fort their  rough  frolicsomeness  had  caused  us. 
We  were  considerably  startled  that  after- 
noon when  the  motion  of  the  screw,  getting 
gradually  slower  and  slower,  finally  stopped 
altogether,  and  left  us  almost  motionless  on 
the  silent  water.  Nothing  can  be  imagined 
more  intense  than  the  quiet  of  a  ship  at  rest 
in  mid-ocean;  and  while  we  w^ere  ruefully 
contemplating  the  probability  of  drifting  for 
perhaps  hours  or  days  waiting  for  repairs  to 
be  made,  the  welcome  sound  was  heard,  and 


The  Voijage  Homo.  395 

we  went  steaming  on  again,  much  relieved 
that  the  damage  had  been  so  easily  remedied. 

On  Friday  there  was  another  fog,  and  at  in- 
tervals during  the  afternoon  the  discordant 
sound  of  the  horn  was  heard.  Just  about 
sunset  it  cleared  off;  all  the  clouds  and  mist 
disappeared  toward  the  east — "  gone  back  to 
London,  where  they  belong,"  as  Susie  re- 
marked. In  the  west,  however — toward  home 
— every  thing  was  bright  and  beautiful,  as 
we  glided  on  in  the  direction  of  the  setting 
sun,  cheered  and  encouraged  by  the  glory  of 
its  radiance  and  the  certainty  of  approaching 
land. 

The  pilot  from  the  shore  came  aboard  at  ten 
o'clock  on  Saturday,  and  then  the  all-absorb- 
ing question  was,  "  Would  the  sanitary  officers 
reach  us  and  finish  their  examination  in  time 
to  land  that  night?  "  Passing  into  the  harbor 
of  New  York  as  dark  came  on,  we  had  a  good 
view  of  the  Statue  of  Liberty  holding  aloft 
her  gleaming  torch,  and  then  the  anchor  was 
cast,  and  we  gave  up  the  hope  of  getting  ashore 
before  morning.     In  a  little  while,  however,  a 


396  A  Girl 's  Journeij. 


small  yacht  came  alongside,  aud,  greeted  with 
shouts  and  cheers,  the  doctor  aud  the  custom- 
house officers  were  soon  on  board  going  through 
with  their  forms;  after  which  the  anchor  was 
weighed,  and  we  moved  slowly  and  majestically 
up  to  the  dock.  Our  party  was  standing  on 
the  deck  watching  eagerly  for  familiar  faces, 
and  when,  among  the  surging  crowd  that  was 
waiting  on  the  pier,  we  recognized  my  father 
and  mother  and  Alex.  Hunter  ( brother  of  Mary 
Green  and  Susie),  who  had  come  to  New  York 
to  meet  us,  a  joyful  shout  went  up,  and  we 
could  scarcely  restrain  our  impatience  until 
the  gangway  was  in  place.  They  had  also 
discovered  us,  and  when  at  last  our  turn  came 
and  we  filed  down  and  made  our  way  to  them, 
there  was  indeed  a  happy  meeting  as  we  em- 
braced each  other  with  deliglit. 

How  we  finally  managed  to  get  to  the  Grand 
Central  Hotel,  amidst  all  the  pleasant  confu- 
sion, I  am  not  exactly  sure;  but  it  was  accom- 
plished, and  we  found  there  several  other 
Nashville  people  whom  it  was  pleasant  to  see. 
We  passed  a  delightful  evening,  made  all  the 


The  Voyage  Home.  397 

more  enjoyable  by  some  lovely  flowers  which 
Mr.  W.  Kniseley,  of  New  York,  had  provided 
for  us,  and  a  big  box  of  American  candy  that 
was  awaiting  us,  and  which  we  girls  devoured 
with  an  appetite  whetted  by  long  abstinence. 

The  hot  weather  was  quite  in  contrast  to  the 
chilly  sea-breezes  to  which  we  had  grown  ac- 
customed, but  all  were  so  busy  telling  things 
and  asking  questions  that  we  had  no  thought 
of  the  temperature. 

In  the  afternoon  a  friend  in  the  city  accom- 
panied us  on  a  walk,  and  we  heard  a  service 
in  honor  of  Queen  Victoria's  Jubilee,  at  St. 
Thomas's  Church,  on  Fifth  Avenue. 

Next  morning  our  party,  now  increased  in 
numbers  to  eight,  boarded  one  of  the  Hudson 
River  steamers  and  spent  the  day  on  that  beau- 
tiful river,  enjoying  together  its  exquisite  scen- 
ery, which  reminded  us  of  the  Scotch  lakes. 

I  shall  not  go  into  particulars  of  how  we 
made  stops  on  the  way  home  at  Albanj^  Niag- 
ara, Buffalo,  and  other  places,  but  will  hurry 
on  to  Louisville,  where,  standing  on  the  plat- 
form, whom  should  we  see  but  my  brother, 


398  A  GirVs  Journey. 

Frank  Searcy,  and  a  cousin  of  ours,  Mr.  Frank 
Prentice.  They  had  also  come  up  to  meet  us, 
but  after  waiting  a  day  or  two  at  Cincinnati  had 
given  us  out  for  the  time,  and  were  this  far  on 
their  way  home.  After  many  happy  greetings 
our  gradually  growing  party  continued  the 
journey,  being  further  re-enforced  at  Gallatin, 
Tenn.,  by  the  addition  of  our  uncle,  Captain 
Frank  W.  Green,  so  that  when  we  finally 
reached  the  Union  Depot  at  Nashville  there 
were  thirteen  of  us  in  all — two  other  cousins, 
Frank  G.  Fite  and  Thos.  D.  Fite,  Jr.,  having 
joined  us  at  Edgefield  Station.  How  delighted 
we  were  as  familiar  landmarks  began  to  come 
into  view,  and  when  at  last  we  spied  the  White's 
Creek  Turnpike  and  the  dear  old  Cumberland 
Kiver,  our  joy  fairly  bubbled  over  in  enthusi- 
astic cheers!  Then  the  meeting  at  the  depot! 
I  am  afraid  some  of  the  spectators  must  have 
thought  it  the  landing  of  subjects  for  a  lunatic 
asylum.  All  the  Greens,  Fites,  Hunters,  and 
Youngs  were  there,  besides  a  host  of  friends, 
and  such  a  tremendous  hubbub  was  enough 
to  startle  even  the   *'iron  horse"  that  had 


The  Voyage  Home.  399 

brought  us  home.  Everybody  kissed  every- 
body else  promiscuously,  and,  if  all  accounts 
are  true,  two  or  three  strange  ladies  received 
a  share  of  the  warm  greeting,  to  their  very 
great  surprise  and  confusion. 

Somehow  we  managed  to  find  the  residence 
of  Uncle  Thomas  D.  Fite,  and  there  met  an- 
other detachment,  and  the  delightful  confusion 
was  increased  yet  more.  AVhat  a  bountiful 
supper  was  served,  and  how  we  hungry  trav- 
elers enjoyed  the  delicious  home  fare!  Next 
day  the  whole  family  of  fathers,  mothers, 
aunts,  uncles,  and  cousins  went  out  in  a  body 
to  "  Greenland,"  on  White's  Creek,  the  former 
home  of  our  grandfather,  Dr.  A.  L.  P.  Green, 
now  the  residence  of  Captain  Frank  W.  Green. 
There,  beneath  the  roof  so  dear  to  us  from 
many  hallowed  associations,  we  gathered 
round  the  generous  board  to  the  number  of 
thirty-two,  and  were  bountifully  feasted  amid 
the  sweet  sounds  of  happy  voices  and  merry 
laughter. 

Now  that  the  long  journey  was  ended,  omr 
hearts  went  out  in  gratitude  to  our  loving 


400  A  Girl 's  Journey. 


heavenly  Father  who  had  cared  for  us  so  ten- 
derly, "granted  us  journeying  mercies,"  and 
finally  brouglit  us  to  this  happy  reunion,  where 
there  was  not  one  empty  place,  not  one  dear 
face  missing.  O  that  it  may  be  typical  of  the 
last  joyous  meeting  in  our  home  in  the  great 
hereafter! 


RARE  BOOK 
COLLECTION 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF 

NORTH  CAROLINA 

AT 

CHAPEL  HILL 

Travel 

D980 

.G78 


